Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Luggate Boulders Main Cluster | |||||
V0 | ★ #7 | 5m | |||
V2 | #8 | 5m | |||
V5 | #9 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ #10 | 3m | |||
V0 | #11 | 5m | |||
V0 | #12 | 5m | |||
V3 | #13 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ #14 | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ #15 | 6m | |||
V3 | #17 | 6m | |||
V3 | ★ #18 | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ #19 | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ #20 | 4m | |||
V0 | #21 | 4m | |||
V0 | #22 | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ #23 | 5m | |||
V5 | #24 | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★ #25
Sit start from lower rock then straight up through side crimp (without jugs on edges) to pocket in the main face and up on its left. | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★ #26
Mantel from lying down position. Good lowest crimp on right and left heel. Shouldery move. | ||||
V3/4 | #27 Long traverse
Start from jug in the cave then right to jug on the edge and up. All holds under the obvious "horizontal" crack play. | ||||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Luggate Boulders Roadside Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ #1 | ||||
V4 | ★★ #2 | ||||
V7 | ★★★ #3
The problem of the wall and a nice one too. Sit start on a low juggy rail, work you way upwards until you encounter a shallow and feisty three finger pock, put this to good use, gain the lip and mantle. FA: Unknown | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★ #4 | ||||
V2 | ★★ #5 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ #6 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ #7 | 3m | |||
V2 | #8 | ||||
V2 | ★★ #9 | 3m | |||
V3 | #10 | ||||
V5 | #11 | 3m | |||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Jetboat Boulders | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Tracer Fire
Best line on the boulder. Sit start to Tracer. Start as low down crack as possible, good left hand, small crimp right hand. Follow the series of crimps in crack then up arete. FA: Jack Hewson | ||||
V3 | ★★★ Tracer
Stand start on crimps in crack. Cool left heel, moving directly upwards on arete FA: Scott Olds | ||||
Open Project
Same start as Tracer Fire. Instead of going up arete, continue along crack and up face. | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Rail Jam
Sit start on obvious jug moving left along thin crack staying under roof. Exit directly up the face. FA: Jack Hewson | ||||
V2 | ★★ As Light Fades
Sit start on obvious jug moving left along slopey rail. FA: Scott Olds | ||||
V0 | Cleaners Access
Stand start up along big easy holds. FA: Scott Olds | ||||
V6 | ★★ Game Engine
Sit start with left crimp and right pocket. Big first move, transfer over to the left, around the corner and onto the west facing slab. Powerful start, delicate finish. FA: Scott Olds | ||||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago The Gully The Entrance | |||||
V7 | Beautiful Nightmare
Sit start directly up the right side of the arete, and up the face. Has an amazing drop knee move FA: Jon Sedon | ||||
V2 | That Nag’s Dead
Sit start at the base of the crack heading up the arete to the top of the left wall FA: Rhys Whitehouse | ||||
V1 | Havoc and Destruction
Sit start up the crack, rocking over onto the right hand face, and finishing directly up from there. Stand Start version goes at V0 FA: Christabel Ritson | ||||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago The Gully The Scoop | |||||
V9 | ★★★ Genesis
Crimpy hard line directly up the left side of the scooping feature. Crux is toward the top, be careful not to barndoor or fall onto base of tree below. FA: Scott Olds | ||||
V6 | ★★★ Circadian
One of the best lines at the crag. Start stemming on obvious right hand smear and left foot, moving directly up into obvious crack. Move along crack and up arete, topping out on scooped face. If your whole body ends up around the corner on the right face, you're off line. Has a drop in move on the arete to a left hand hold which initially broke. Hold should now be solid, but be aware FA: Jon Sedon | ||||
V7 | OG Line
Sit start line directly up the prow. FA: Jon Sedon | ||||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago The Gully Warmup Wall | |||||
V4 | ★ Parsnip Patch Kids
Straight up and over the bulge FA: Jack hewson | ||||
V2 | ★★ Cool in Motion
Unique style climb for the area. Topping out onto lower section left of the large overhang FA: Scott Olds | ||||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago The Gully The Tall Wall | |||||
V5 | Poplar Fur
The obvious kingline highball of the wall. Crack is often seeping with water, but dries up in warmer months providing the top is clean. Direct Line FA: Rhys Whitehouse | ||||
V3 | ★★ Poplar Fur Right
Right exit to Poplar Fur along obvious right crack traverse FA: Rhys Whitehouse | ||||
Face Project
Line starting on the face. Mantle over the same bulge as The Faintails Eyebrows, but staying on the face side of the prow | |||||
V5 | ★★★ The Fantails Eyebrows
Classic line up the obvious arete / prow. FA: Jon Sedon | ||||
V5 | ★★★ The Fantails Eyebrows Sit
Additional moves don't increase the grade but do make the most of an aesthetic feature. FA: James Pullan | ||||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago The Gully Hidden Wall | |||||
V2 | ★ Lane Switching
Furthest left line directly upwards using arete. Top holds could use a decent clean. FA: Scott Olds | ||||
V6 | Broken Hearts Club
Stand start off the two obvious crimps at chest height. Moving up to the right to the broken hold and then up to the good rail. Top out by carrying on straight up. FA: Jack hewson | ||||
V5 | ★ Broken Hearts Club Direct
Dyno version of Broken Hearts Club. Can be done by starting on the same start holds and dynoing straight up to the good rail. Top out sequence is the same. FA: Jack hewson | ||||
V3 | ★★ Non-Native
Starting matched on the lowest rail, leading directly upwards to good ledge then obvious scoop top out. Original beta used a very cool high heel hand match, but additional crimps were found making the line easier. FA: Jack hewson | ||||
V4 | ★★ Non-Native Direct
Same matched start as Non-Native, to left and right hand crimps, then dyno directly to the obvious ledge. FA: Scott Olds | ||||
V5 | ★ Welcome To The Windows Club
Sit start. Left hand starts on the slopey vertical crimp and right hand on the good crimp. Line moves left slightly once off the ground and then straight up. Spoilt for choice of holds once started. FA: Jack hewson | ||||
V7 | Window Breaker
Head hight traverse starting at Welcome To The Windows Club, heading left and finishing up the Broken Hearts Club line. Harder for shorter climbers FA: Rhys Whitehouse | ||||
V4 | ★★ Override
Start on the juggy arete and traverse right with a large spanning move. Finish directly up Non-Native. FA: James Pullan | ||||
V2 | Baddadan
Starting on the obvious sloper, move to the left of the arête and upwards between the arête and the crack FA: Jack hewson | ||||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago The Gully The Runnels | |||||
V4 | ★★★ Love Supreme
Very cool, tall line pinching your way up each side of the runnel. FA: Jack hewson | ||||
V3 | ★★ Love Divide
Tall line through the middle runnel pinching your way up. FA: Scott Olds | ||||
V2 | Bucking Bronco
Directly up and through the left of the 3 runnels. FA: Jack hewson | ||||
V2 | Baggo Berries
Up, under and over the overhanging feature. FA: Scott Olds | ||||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago The Gully Pitch 2 | |||||
V3 | ★★ Tomoa at home
Comp style climb around the scoop. Starting from the Gaston/sidepull, run around or jump across the scoop to latch the obvious holds on the lip. Spotter needed for this in case of a big swing after latching the lip and the possible fall off the edge. FA: Jack hewson | ||||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago The Gully Pitch 3 | |||||
V4 | ★★ Cohesion
Short boulder furthest to the right. Cool looking wave feature. Sharp 1/4 pad 2 finger edge to the jug, then mantle the lip FA: Scott Olds | ||||
V4 | ★★ Sunstrike
Left start to Cohesion. Instead of going directly up, start up the left on the slabby feet moving right to the jug. Top out same as Cohesion. FA: Scott Olds | ||||
V3 | ★ Scarface
Follow left leaning crack through the scoop. FA: James Pullan | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Rivulet
Climb through runnel feature, exit out right. FA: James Pullan | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Shafted
Work your left hand up the arete and right hand up the crack. FA: Scott Olds | ||||
Project
Hard project up the scoop. Bottom climbs well, top will be hard. Potential fall onto slander boulder below. | |||||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago The Gully Lakeside Scoop | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Mysterium
Starting on the obvious jug on the corner, move right through the crack and mantle up into the scoop. Stand up into the undercling and lunge for the jug. Taller people can reach static from the undercling. Top out left onto the second ledge. Arete is out. FA: Scott Olds | ||||
V8 | Bi-Polar
Same start as Mysterium, but instead of mantling up the middle of the scoop, keep following the line of the crack right. Once stood up on the right side of the scoop, transfer onto the slap and finish up the top of Redline Reaper FA: Callum Harrison | ||||
V3 | ★★ Redline Reaper
The tall obvious slab line. Some cool start moves on various undercuts. FA: Scott Olds | ||||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Murihiku / Southland Colac Bay Crayfish Wall | |||||
V0 | ★ No. 6
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Rainbow Rockette
On the vertical face between No. 6 and No. 7, there's a new school step up dyno from the incut rail to ledge above. The rail is around 6ft and the ledge another 5-6ft above that. It's possible to crimp through the face if you're 6ft+, which goes at about V4. | |||||
★ No. 7
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Murihiku / Southland Colac Bay Neptune Area | |||||
V2 | ★ No. 1
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V5 | No. 3
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V2 | No. 4
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V1 | ★★ No. 6
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V0 | No. 10
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V1 | No. 14
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V1 | ★★ Submarine Traverse
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Murihiku / Southland Colac Bay Pounamu Cove | |||||
V4/5 | ★★ Mrs Krabs
Using the leftmost arete between Neptune Area and Pounamu Cove, compress your way up the bulging face and mantle out. Downclimb to the left through slightly vegetated and chossy ledges. FA: Daniel Gracey, 17 Jan | ||||
V3 | ★ No. 16
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V2 | ★ No. 17
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V4 | ★★ No. 18
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V0 | No. 21
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No. 22
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V1 | No. 23
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V2 | ★★ No. 24
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V1 | ★★ No. 25
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V2 | ★ No. 26
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V4 | ★ No. 27
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V0 | No. 28
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V0 | No. 29
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V6 | ★ No. 30
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V0 | No. 31
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V1 | No. 32
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