Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
The Main Cliff | |||||||
17 | ★★ Headbangers Arete - with Kati Tureo | 20m, 5 | |||||
Missing last Bolt before anchors
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Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Pinnacle Lower Sunnyside | |||||||
20 | ★★ Maybe — 3 attempts | 14m, 4 | |||||
Cool climbing with a few awkward interludes and some tricky clips. Fun mix of power and balance
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Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Avian Wall | |||||||
17 Easy | ★★ Waiting for Buller | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really cool line, my new favorite warmup for the area. Fun movement throughout and really well protected. Watch for loose rock especially near the higher bolts
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Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Wye Creek | |||||||
South Side Harold's Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Move It Or Lose It | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Went for the onsight. Fell off crux. Too gassed for roofs today. Quality climbing though
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24 Hard | ★ The Vision — 2 attempts | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
I dunno.. not that stoked on how this climbs - pretty average overall. Might leave it.
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24 Easy | ★ Little Rivers Of Anticipation — 2 attempts | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Hung the draws. Sent first shot. 5th attempt overall.
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Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Chinaman's Bluff | |||||||
Ravages Area | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Chink in Shining Armour | 110m, 32 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great last two pitches, good stone and cool holds.
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Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Wye Creek | |||||||
South Side Harold's Wall | |||||||
24 Easy | ★ Little Rivers Of Anticipation — 3 attempts | 25m, 8 | |||||
Should go next session.
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Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Sunnyside | |||||||
23 ~24 | ★★ Creepy Crawler | 13m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Harder than the 24. Those crimpy polished oily hold worn off all my finger tip.
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Thu 25th Apr 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Tombstone Boulders The Tombstone | |||||||
17 | ★★ Lincoln Blondes Have More Fun | 15m, 4 | Average | ||||
Little shards
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Thu 25th Apr 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Whale Watching | |||||||
20 | ★★ No Thanks I'd Rather Walk | 15m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
I think I did this before a long time ago.
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24 | ★★ Flensing the Stone | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Can't stop won't stop
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Thu 25th Apr 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Sunnyside | |||||||
19 | ★★ Winners and Losers - with Jess Cotton | 20m, 5 | |||||
Repeat
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21 | ★ Anagaanga - with Jess Cotton | 20m, 5 | |||||
Repeat
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20 | ★★ Giz-a-Combo - with Jess Cotton | 19m, 5 | |||||
Repeat
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27 | Oh the Bulge - with Jess Cotton | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Curse of the 27 strikes again. Taped up my finger from yesterday's split only for the next finger along to split in the same place. Managed to do almost every move. Fun climb
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25 | ★ Power Curve - with Jess Cotton | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Repeat from yesterday, put the draws up for Joe and Jess to try it. Jess did way better and did every move.
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23 | ★★ Mean Streak - with Jess Cotton | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice repeat, put the draws in for Jess and Joe. And Jess managed it with some cool new beta.
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Thu 25th Apr 2024 - Mount Iron | |||||||
Middle Curtain | |||||||
25 ~24 | ★ Mine, Mine, Mine | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Like a hard version AP32. Too soft for 25
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Wed 24th Apr 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Sunnyside | |||||||
19 | ★★ Winners and Losers - with Jess Cotton | 20m, 5 | |||||
Great, good warm up too
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27 | ★★★ No Sweat - with Jess Cotton | 21m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Swear I'm cursed on this route. Every time I try I split my finger right on the first pad crease. Made it to the crux but didn't bother trying it.
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20 | ★ Mum's on the Run - with Jess Cotton | 14m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Great route, always a fun warm up
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25 | ★ Power Curve — 3 attempts - with Jess Cotton | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Should have got it second go, made the dead point to the jug but brought my foot too high for the next move and it pushed me off. Went 3rd go no problem, fun big moves. Will definitely be harder for shorter people.
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Tue 23rd Apr 2024 - Mount Iron | |||||||
The Next Best Thing | |||||||
20 ~21 | Rubber Monkey 2 | 10m, 5 | Average | ||||
Seems like some hold before the last bolt was broken.
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20 Hard | Rubber Monkey 1 | 10m, 5 | Average | ||||
Mind the hold, it spin....The rock is really bad, anything can break anytime. Belayer must wear helmet.
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Mon 22nd Apr 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Highside | |||||||
23 | ★★ Daydreams & Fantasies - with Jess Cotton | 26m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Annoying fell at the start on very easy climbing, didn't set of right. Came down and did it
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28 | ★★ Malomodo - with Jess Cotton | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great route, maybe a new winter project, did most of the moves and some good links. Need to figure out the middle section before the big diagonal crack and the very last moves
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Mon 22nd Apr 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Sunnyside | |||||||
24 Hard | ★★ All That Remains | 21m, 6 | |||||
Still working on the beta to pass the 3rd bolt
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21 Hard | ★ Anagaanga | 20m, 5 | |||||
Pumpy climb
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Mon 22nd Apr 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Dragon's Lair | |||||||
26 | ★★ Instrument Of Torture - with Billy Pirie | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good to send this one on my last long beach trip before leaving Dunedin!
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Sun 21st Apr 2024 - Wye Creek | |||||||
South Side Main Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dream Thing - with Miriam Barton | 15m, 8 | |||||
Climbed twice
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Sun 21st Apr 2024 - Diamond Lake | |||||||
Rumour Mill | |||||||
20 | ★★ Losing Streak | 25m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
New favorite in Wanaka
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18 | ★★ Stolen Thunder | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Awesome climb
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23 | ★★ Canary in a Coal Mine | 25m, 9 | |||||
The face part which is supposed to be a 21 was still the crux.
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Sat 20th Apr 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Sunnyside | |||||||
Unknow | 20m, 6 | ||||||
I thought it was the 19 but cannot even pass the first bolt then I realized it is not 19 and not in the guide book. Seems like 25+ to me.
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24 Hard | ★★ All That Remains | 21m, 6 | |||||
Cannot find a way to pass the 3rd bolt on the face. Moved left to the ledge, then move right again to get to the good hold on top of the next ledge.
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Sat 20th Apr 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Southern Wall | |||||||
23 | ★ Anti-Gravity Delicacy - with Monty | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Orangutan arms turned the double dyno into a dead point.
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18 | ★★ Ride the Spiral - with Monty | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Tricky start
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25 | ★ G-Dub - with Monty | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Steep with cool moves that get better and better, culminating in a great finish! Would deserve star(s) if the rock was better quality.
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Fri 19th Apr 2024 - Gorge Road | |||||||
Main Wall | |||||||
23 | ★ Andy's Arête | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Fell on the last jug. Gutted
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20 | ★ Sand Storm | 32m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Surprisingly good. Deserves more traffic. 28meters
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Thu 18th Apr 2024 - Mount Iron | |||||||
The Next Best Thing | |||||||
22 | ★ Crossroads - with Jess Cotton | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Loved this route, great moves on big holds
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21 | ★ Chink in the Armour - with Jess Cotton | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Tricky mantle, easier after
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23 | ★★ Sliced Bread — 2 attempts - with Jess Cotton | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great route, dry fired off whilst holding the wrong hold, pulled the rope through and sent
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Thu 18th Apr 2024 - Mount Iron | |||||||
Iron Curtain | |||||||
20 ~21 | Waking up the Missus | 20m, 7 | |||||
Not a good warm up at cold day..
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Thu 18th Apr 2024 - Mount Iron | |||||||
Middle Curtain | |||||||
24 ~25 | ★ Hey Presto | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Cheated at the crux
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Wed 17th Apr 2024 - Diamond Lake | |||||||
Jimmy Cliff | |||||||
23 | ★★ Stonearium — 2 attempts - with Jess Cotton | 24m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Was a bit wet, definitely made the onsight abit more challenging
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24 | ★★ Fire on the Mountain - with Jess Cotton | 28m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great route, fell at the last hard move I reckon. Definitely felt the heart beating faster being high up on the over hang
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Tue 16th Apr 2024 - Mount Iron | |||||||
Ironside | |||||||
23 | ★ Easily the Best Route on the Crag | 20m, 6 | |||||
Still can't figure out the crux moves
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Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Kerfuffle Wall | |||||||
17 ~20 | ★ Get Kerfuffled | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
big sandbag. you will get kerfuffled if you think this is a 17. it is simply not a 17 - at the very least not by the standards of the other 17s right next to it by the same FA, one of which I lead happily in jandals, this had me swearing.
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Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Sunnyside | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Mental As Anything — 2 attempts - with Jess Cotton | 21m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great route repeat, fun to get on it again. First go to warm up the fingers
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Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Sunnyside | |||||||
17 | ★ Bella Linguini | 19m, 4 | Average | ||||
Why is this so awkward?
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23 | ★★ Creepy Crawler | 13m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Quite good climbing for a 3 bolt affair
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20 | ★ Mum's on the Run | 14m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Such an interesting pocket
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Tue 9th Apr 2024 - Mount Iron | |||||||
Middle Curtain | |||||||
28 | ★★ Pick Pocket - with Jess Cotton | 15m, 8 | |||||
Suprised myself with this one. Definitely got stuck on a few moves in the middle
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20 | ★ Hoover - with Jess Cotton | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Fun route, definitely got a killer reach move which will stump the vertically challenge 😅
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22 | ★★★ AP32 — 2 attempts - with Jess Cotton | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awesome jug pulling, definitely not warmed up enough for it, got pumped out staring at the chains. Didn't help I had to flip one of the permadraws round. 2nd try it went and I didn't even get pumped 😅 shows how warming up is crucial
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Mon 8th Apr 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Roadside Area Roadside Attraction | |||||||
29 | Onion - with Jess Cotton | 15m, 4 | |||||
Dunno if I can even call what I did an attempt 😅😅
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Mon 8th Apr 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Roadside Area Farside | |||||||
25 | ★ On Bidet — 3 attempts - with Jess Cotton | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Cool moves, took some great whips. Easier if you are taller
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22 | ★★ Girl on the Run - with Jess Cotton | 13m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Repeat, great route
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Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
The Office | |||||||
22 ~19 | ★ Flake News | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Definitely not 22 at all like a V2 boulder problem after the ledge rest
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Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Diamond Lake | |||||||
Rumour Mill | |||||||
17 | ★★ Dream of Bobby Calves - with siâny | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Gotta be the best 17 on bolts I’ve done anywhere
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23 | ★★ Canary in a Coal Mine - with siâny | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Could have sent but was fretting about my damaged rope, i’ll come back for it after the trim
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Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Tombstone Boulders The Tombstone | |||||||
24 | ★★ Lunge Starter - with siâny | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Millimetres from the send
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17 | ★ Fingers Columbia - with siâny | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice moves up high
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Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Car Park Crag | |||||||
17 | ★★ It Only Looks Expensive - with siâny | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Also dutty
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17 | ★★ Rhythm and Blues - with siâny | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Dutty
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Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Roadside Area Roadside Attraction | |||||||
21 | ★★ Aretenaphobia | 13m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Something like 21 years since my last ascent.
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18 | ★ Slightly English | 18m, 4 | |||||
Again
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16 | ★ Ara Tuatahi | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Good stone, low angle.
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Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Beginner’s Slab | |||||||
16 | ★★ Nab | 8m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
How is this 3 stars it's more like 1
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Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
The Crackhouse | |||||||
22 | ★★ Chewbacca | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cool varied climbing
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24 | ★ Crack Under Pressure — 2 attempts | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
All the hanger nuts were loose and one bolt is rusty as, otherwise good and probably more on the 23 side
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20 | ★★ Critics' Choice | 30m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Second pitch is so noice
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Thu 4th Apr 2024 - Gorge Road | |||||||
Leonardo's Wall | |||||||
15 | ★ The Man That Wasn't Here - with siâny | 12m, 5 | Average | ||||
Rest day sift
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Thu 4th Apr 2024 - Gorge Road | |||||||
Magnum Wall | |||||||
19 | ★ RD - with siâny | 6m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
One move an it’s over
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Whale Watching | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Moby Dick — 3 attempts - with Jess Cotton | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
So so close, can't believe I dropped it on the last attempt, wasn't pumped or tired just didn't have enough body tension for the move I find hardest. Should have sent. Sick climb though. Should go next time.
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Kingston | |||||||
Bob Marley’s Corner | |||||||
20 ~21 | ★★ Send Me That Love - with siâny | 31m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great climbing! quite techie through the roof
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Kingston | |||||||
Christmas Wall | |||||||
17 | ★★ Shadows On My Face - with siâny | 26m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice long chill pitch
|
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19 |
★ Joyeux Noël
- with
siâny
2
19
31m
| 49m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mega route. Cool climbing and gets pretty serious up top.
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Tue 2nd Apr 2024 - Wye Creek | |||||||
South Side Main Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dream Thing - with siâny | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Megafun! Glad to get the onsight! Wasn’t elated at first cos I felt the rope when I cut feet at the lip, so did it again just to prove to myself that I didn’t cheat it.
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16 | ★★★ The Mission - with siâny | 28m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Pretty cool, not super.
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19 Hard | ★★ 88 Chocolate Treats - with siâny | 31m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
So good, best climb of the day!! Cruxy down low and the coolest rock up top. 3 stars all the way
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Tue 2nd Apr 2024 - Wye Creek | |||||||
North Side Project Wall | |||||||
25 | ★★ Eat Yourself Fitter | 22m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mint climb!
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Tue 2nd Apr 2024 - Hero Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★ Power Line | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Bouldery
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Mon 1st Apr 2024 - Wye Creek | |||||||
North Side Project Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Rgrgrgrgr | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really fun, much easier when you find your feet
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Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Diamond Lake | |||||||
Pencil Dick Wall | |||||||
26 Easy | ★★ Reach for the Purple Love Truncheon | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quality techy vert crimping. Requires you to think a bit but not too much. The line of chalked holds up and right from the last bolt and then back left to the lower-off seems like a bit of a cop out? Going up from the big side pull on crimps then a lash for the victory flatty was one of the best bits!
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Warm Leatharête | |||||||
24 | ★★ Edge of Reality — 2 attempts - with Jess Cotton | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Should have sent 2nd go, messed up my hands in th crimpy section, very frustrating! Fun climb though
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
North Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Vege Patch - with siâny | 12m, 3 | Don't Bother | ||||
Warm up
|
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19 | ★★ Wallace - with siâny | 12m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice
|
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
The Caves | |||||||
19 | ★★ Cadbury Flakies - with siâny | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Not the best rock, but lots of different moves
|
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23 | ★★ El Zymer - with siâny | 12m, 4 | |||||
Climbs like a chipped windowpane
|
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Wye Creek | |||||||
South Side Harold's Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Nu Energy — 2 attempts - with Jess Cotton | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First attempt was basically to try and get warm after having a break, 2nd go went well. Definitely lanked one move which I could have climbed nicer. Fun route though
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26 | ★★ The Prophecy - with Jess Cotton | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tried this about a year ago and couldn't quite get the crux, the whole climb felt much easier. Could only get one try as had to leave but will definitely try it again next time
|
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
The Caves | |||||||
20 ~21 | ★★ Cave Woute — 2 attempts - with siâny | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Some nice moves down low, but travels through some of the worst rock quality on the wall. Got tricked into going high at last bolt
|
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22 | ★★ The Overhangover - with siâny | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Traversed in from left for onsite attempt, fluked the jumping direct start on red point
|
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17 | ★ Big Easy - with siâny | 12m, 5 | Average | ||||
More like the big dirty!
|
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18 | ★ Purple haze - with siâny | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Some nice undercling pockets and an elegant topout
|
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20 Hard | ★★ Bowels of Mercy - with siâny | 14m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bowels of no mercy!
|
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17 | ★ Concrete thinkers - with siâny | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Warm up
|