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Ascents in Ōtākou / Otago having Beta

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Showing 201 - 300 out of 4,709 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Climber
Fri 8th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach
Bolt City
24 Labours Of Love - with Alex Popinga Sport 15m, 5 Classic
Alexei Drummond
Silly slip on my flash attempt. But I would have probably come off at the last bolt anyway, which seems like the crux. I did all the moves fairly easily and the route seems suited to me. Hopefully I can get another go on this fresh!

 
Fri 8th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach
Southern Wall
21 The Shady Rest - with Alex Popinga Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
Alexei Drummond
Nice little route. Quite off-balance in a couple of places, cool movement.

 
Fri 8th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach
The Caves
19 Cadbury Flakies - with Alex Popinga Sport 12m Good
Alexei Drummond
Warm up

 
23 El Zymer - with Alex Popinga Sport 12m, 4 Very Good
Alexei Drummond
Much easier second time, knowing where to not muck around. #2ndgo

 
23 El Zymer - with Alex Popinga Sport 12m, 4 Very Good
Alexei Drummond
Onsight attempt came up short at the last bolt going over the slopey lip.

 
Thu 7th Mar 2024 - Diamond Lake
Rumour Mill
25 Crescendo Sport 14m, 5 Very Good
Dena
One hung on the onsight attempt. A couple bigger moves but good holds all the way. Feels soft for the grade - hard to believe it used to be 26! Shame about the chossy stuff at the start and finish, otherwise good fun.

 
23 ~21 Canary in a Coal Mine Sport 25m, 9 Very Good
Dena
Really lovely moves on good holds. Well worth doing but no way is it a 23. The 21 it joins into felt harder to me...

 
Thu 7th Mar 2024 - Wye Creek
South Side Main Wall
21 Dream Thing - with Clément Sport 15m, 8 Classic
John Park
Antistyle for me for sure but awesome climb. Done in 2 parts but probably would send if/when I attempt again.

 
16 The Mission - with Clément Sport 28m, 9 Classic
John Park
Awesome views.

 
19 Hard 88 Chocolate Treats - with Clément Sport 31m, 11 Classic
John Park
Post concussion weakness hit hard on this one. Probably still a hard 19 but definitely was weak. Super cool rock formation at the top, feels like you're climbing on bones.

 
Wed 6th Mar 2024 - Mount Iron
The Next Best Thing
20 ~21 Hydrophobia Sport 20m, 5 Good
Pak
The climb is good, but the rock is not. Last climb of the day, no more juice leave..

 
19 Toe the Line Sport 20m, 8
Pak
Repeat

 
Wed 6th Mar 2024 - Motatapu Valley
Roadside Area Farside
22 Girl on the Run Sport 13m, 4 Very Good
Dena
I enjoyed this one! Fun bouldery moves through the middle section then glory jugs to finish.

 
Tue 5th Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat
Sunnyside
20 Giz-a-Combo Sport 19m, 5 Good
Dena
On the reachy side but made it work with some high feet!

 
22 ~21 Sisters of Mercy Sport 16m, 5 Very Good
Dena
Very enjoyable climbing but felt easier than 22

 
Tue 5th Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat
Warm Leatharête
24 Easy Edge of Reality Sport 20m, 8 Very Good
Dena
Very enjoyable. Cool moves up the arete to start then nice holds on the face. A few sits to plan my next move but nothing felt too hard once I found the sequence. Hopefully we get another cool enough day on this trip to return...

 
Tue 5th Mar 2024 - Mount Iron
Iron Curtain
24 The Bastard from Gunn Rd — 2 attempts Sport 20m, 10 Very Good
Pak
Worked out a new beta without jumping at the crux.

 
Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - The Remarkables
The Grand Traverse
2+ The Grand Traverse - with Kyle Alpine 210m Classic
Aaron Wong
Super fun scramble with a couple of sections we pitched. Super cool exposure. Super cool views! Completely snow free which made it much more of a relaxing day out to goof off on a mountain

 
Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - Mapoutahi
Main Wall
20 Ejectoflap Sport 20m Good
James Smith
pretty hard for a 20...

 
Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - Mapoutahi
Eldorado Wall
17 Hard Golden Showers Sport 20m, 8 Very Good
Joseph Curtis
Cool climb, fun and diverse set of moves

 
Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - Mapoutahi
Main Wall
19 Easy Greek Gift 2 Sport 20m, 8 Good
Joseph Curtis
Cool climb! Mellow up to the last few bolts and then a fun, thuggy finish

 
Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - The Remarkables
Single Cone East Face
15 Delta - with Gareth Trad 200m Good
Jay
Picked a slightly harder line than the normal one, going a bit further right on the slab. Went right again from the belay on the ledge to go up some more slabs and then a chimney between Delta and Epsilon.

Variation on the first pitch was a grade 17ish slab, including a pretty spicy swing I was happy Gareth led, and a 30m runout.

The second pitch was probably a stiff 15 (but super fun climbing the whole time). Fun scramble to the top, took us to the slabs of the NE Ridge

 
Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Motatapu Valley
Riverside Main Wall
24 The Engorger Sport 25m, 7
Ryan Yong
pumpy

 
Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat
Whale Watching
18 ~19 Via Frittata Sport 20m, 9 Don't Bother
Pak
The climb is ok but the position of the anchor is really bad, the worst archor position ever. The climb should end at the same face not at the far back slap. So much rope drag. Very painful to clean.

 
20 No Thanks I'd Rather Walk Sport 15m, 10 Classic
Pak
Really good climb

 
24 Easy Flensing the Stone Sport 15m, 8
Pak
Last climb of the date, tired. Nothing particular hard, just need to know the hold.

 
19 ~20 Blubber Sport 15m, 5 Good
Pak
More like a hard 20 to me...

 
Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Diamond Lake
Pencil Dick Wall
24 My Little One Sport 20m, 7 Very Good
Nick O'Rourke
One rest on the overlap other than that all clean. Hopefully next time. Crimps carved out by jesus himself

 
20 Stick It In Sport 20m, 8 Very Good
Nick O'Rourke
Pumpy but good

 
Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Diamond Lake
Spade Slab
24 10 Dollars is Cool Sport 20m, 9
Adam Sanders
Hard boulder crux off the ground. Fairly cruisy and techy from there.

 
Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Diamond Lake
Pencil Dick Wall
24 My Little One — 4 attempts Sport 20m, 7 Very Good
Adam Sanders
Onsight attempt went so well - sat once after the whip. Steadily got worse, should go next session.

 
21 Hard Botox Viagra Sport 20m, 8 Very Good
Adam Sanders
Warm up. Fell once. Clean from there. Will try again as my warm up again.

 
Fri 1st Mar 2024 - The Remarkables
Double Cone East Face
17 ~16 Alta La Vista - with Alex Heanly Trad 300m Average
Jay
First two pitches were good but we got a bit off route and missed the crux pitch by going too far left. Had another two pitches at a pretty solid 16 through a chimney & ledge system and then simulled through easy terrain to the top.

One stellar section was a hand crack for about 30m at about grade 15, but the rest was kinda average.

 
Fri 1st Mar 2024 - Wye Creek
North Side Eweniverse Wall
26 Along Came a Spider — 3 attempts Sport 10m, 8 Very Good
Jay
Really cool climb! End is nails

 
Fri 1st Mar 2024 - Motatapu Valley
Riverside Main Wall
25 Lollapalooza Sport 25m, 9 Very Good
Pak
Cannot do the crux move and too tired to clip the last bolt....

 
24 ~23 Zoot Alors — 2 attempts Sport 25m, 7
Pak
Fell both try before the last bolt..

 
24 Hasta Luego Sport 19m, 9
Pak
Weird climb have to move left and right on slippy sloper

 
Fri 1st Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat
The Cutting
19 Cleaning for the Hell Of It - with Jess Cotton Sport 20m, 6
Kyle Johnson
Repeat warm up

 
Fri 1st Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat
Falcon Steep Wall
22 Falcon Steep - with Jess Cotton Sport 20m, 10 Classic
Kyle Johnson
Felt much easier this time being able to use ally fingers on my hand and no splits. Great route

 
26 The 2.4 Minute Man — 2 attempts - with Jess Cotton Sport 20m, 8 Very Good
Kyle Johnson
Thought this was an awesome route, thin holds at times with some cool moves. Did It in two parts, hopefully will go next time

 
Fri 1st Mar 2024 - Wye Creek
North Side Eweniverse Wall
23 ~24 Weapons Sport 18m, 7 Very Good
Tom Hill
Seems very beta intensive. Basically a dyno crux then a technical crux. Could well be 24

 
Thu 29th Feb 2024 - Hospital Flat
The Cutting
18 Henry the Eighth Sport 20m, 9
Ryan Yong
friendly fun route

 
Thu 29th Feb 2024 - Drift Bay
The Boneyard
21 Clavicle Sport 8m, 3
Kayla Migalka
Underrated!

 
Thu 29th Feb 2024 - Wye Creek
North Side Hidden Wall
23 Hard Black Stump Sport 10m, 5 Very Good
Tom Hill
Good fingery climbing, lovely glory jug at the top of the steep stuff

 
Thu 29th Feb 2024 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
24 What's up DOC - with Dave Eckl
1 18 20 Sport
2 18 20 Second lead by Dave Eckl

Guide doesnt mention much but a really nice pitch following a finger crack transitioning into an awesome flake. laybacking.

3 24 25 Sport

steep pumpy climbing into the crux bulge on small crimps. Took a giant whip pulling the crux ended up upside down every which way. Had another go but pumped out. rested below the crux before getting it. rest of the climb is very good

4 21 25 Second lead by Dave Eckl

A really good pitch and route. Would love to see it have more traffic. Steep climbing on crimps with a sting before the anchors

Sport 90m, 30 Very Good
Nick O'Rourke
A great route

 
Wed 28th Feb 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach
Main Wall Right Side
25 Never Enough Sport 14m, 4
Owyn Aitken
Crux felt a little bit contrived

 
25 Hard Perfect Skin Sport 14m, 4 Classic
Owyn Aitken
Took quite a few sessions

 
Wed 28th Feb 2024 - Motatapu Valley
Roadside Area Roadside Attraction
22 ~24 Everything but the Formalities Sport 15m, 6
Pak
Seems like some hold below the overhang is broken and the rock don't look solid. Retreated after 2nd bolt.

 
Wed 28th Feb 2024 - Motatapu Valley
Roadside Area Al Cove
23 Easy Roche Moutonnee Sport 16m, 8
Pak
Climbed the 24 before, so the ceiling is easy to me. It is like a 18 up to the ceiling

 
24 ~23 The Fearsome Flounder Sport 20m, 8
Pak
Just 1 hard crimpy move.

 
Wed 28th Feb 2024 - Hospital Flat
The Cutting
21 Gone by Lunchtime - with Jess Cotton Sport 20m Very Good
Kyle Johnson
Another great route

 
20 The Philosopher's Stone - with Jess Cotton Sport 20m, 7 Very Good
Kyle Johnson
Awesome route

 
23 The Secret to Happiness - with Jess Cotton Sport 20m, 9
Kyle Johnson
Retro flash, tried it last winter and the bottom and bits in the middle was soaking and slimy. Good to come back and do it first try.

 
18 Henry the Eighth Sport 20m, 9 Very Good
Kyle Johnson
Warm up

 
Tue 27th Feb 2024 - Wye Creek
North Side Project Wall
25 Xenalasia Sport 27m, 13 Classic
Jay
Put off trying this because it looked hard. Super fun moves, and no showstoppers. Top is going to be mega pumpy.

 
24 Hard Rgrgrgrgr — 2 attempts Sport 20m, 6 Classic
Jay
Really fun climb!

 
Mon 26th Feb 2024 - Hospital Flat
The Office
24 Fountain Of Youth Sport 20m, 9
Andy Sutherland
Sting in the tail, thought I had the onsight for a second.

 
Mon 26th Feb 2024 - The Remarkables
West Face Telecom Tower
18 Easy Indian Summer - with Riccardo, Gareth
1 17 30 Trad lead by Jay

Definitely the money pitch - super fun climbing, with as much gear as you like.

2 16 50 Second lead by Gareth

Gareth led up the mossy face on the right side of the corner. Good pro, but not as classic as pitch one.

3 15 60 Second lead by Riccardo

Riccardo's first lead on gear. Pretty non-obvious where to go so he had to quest out in a few different directions.

Eventually, did a low traverse and went up an unprotected steep slab, which seemed roughly right and took us up to a bolted anchor in the boulder field, so I guess it was the right way.

Pretty random place to have a belay TBH.

4 18 60 Trad lead by Jay

Description in the guide is not great. There are heaps of options from the ledge. I think we tried every single one of them, before eventually finding the where you were meant to go up. Lot's of up and down climbing!

Trad 200m Classic
Jay
Cool day out. Climbing is pretty cruisy for the grade but finding pitch 4 was a bit weird.

 
Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Diamond Lake
Sharon Stone
18 ~20 Fuck Bunny Arete Sport 15m, 7 Very Good
Pak
Again, seems like a 20 after climbed the 25.

 
18 ~20 Chugnuts Sport 15m, 6 Good
Pak
Quite dirty. Seems more like 20 to me. Or may be i was just too tired after climbed the 25.

 
25 Wind Me Up — 2 attempts Sport 20m, 7 Good
Pak
Very dirty after the 5th bolt, seems like nobody climbed for long time. Just 1 reachy crimpy move.

 
Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach
Dragon's Lair
18 Hard When The Fog Lifts Mixed trad 15m, 3 Very Good
Ben Mitchell
Even though I tried to avoid it, I also succumbed to the beached whale mantle.

 
24 Now That The Love Has Gone Mixed trad 11m, 1 Very Good
Ben Mitchell
Three bolts. Fun bouldery start, throwing from a small crimp to good ledge. Then excellent slab climbing with perfect edges and an easy mantle to finish. There's a horizontal break for a potential (purple) cam placement to protect this last move, but it's pretty bad. At least the next bolt isn't too far below and the climbing is easy from there...

 
Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach
Southern Wall
20 Flash Bomb Sport 30m, 13 Very Good
Ben Mitchell
Fun layback up the crack, taking me right back to the Darrrans

 
Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Wye Creek
North Side Admiral Wall
22 Frogaroo Sport 12m, 5 Good
Nick O'Rourke
Couple burns. Got pumped out

 
20 Introspection Sport 12m, 5 Good
Nick O'Rourke
Pumpy

 
Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Hospital Flat
Hospital Flat Boulders
V4 Magic Mushroom Boulder 8m Very Good
Thibaut
Very nearly flashed the thing then unable to reach my high point.

 
V2 v2 smoke — 2 attempts Boulder Good
Thibaut
Feels oddly committing with the potential for a bad fall. Took me one go to find the courage.

 
V3 V3b smoke Boulder Crap
Thibaut
Super dirty and chossy. Best stay off this one.

 
V2 ~V3 V2 bl — 7 attempts Boulder Very Good
Thibaut
Harder than it looks. Awkward move to the lip.

 
Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Diamond Lake
Pencil Dick Wall
25 Grazon Against Wooly Wullens - with Jess Cotton Sport 18m, 7
Kyle Johnson
Tried it a bit to late into the day after being at hotline area, sun had come round and blinding looking left, made looking for holds much harder and was very warm. Not to hard once I figured out the move to get to the corner. Reckon next attempt in the shade it will go.

 
Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Diamond Lake
Hotline Corner
16 Shitty Shit Shit - with Jess Cotton Sport 25m, 9 Classic
Kyle Johnson
Fun lil adventure up the crack

 
19 Fuckity Fuck Fuck - with Jess Cotton Sport 30m, 12 Classic
Kyle Johnson
Great route

 
18 Hey George P1 - with Jess Cotton
1 18 15m Sport
Sport 15m, 14 Very Good
Kyle Johnson
Just first pitch to set up hotline top rope, awesome dihedral

 
22 The Hotline - with Jess Cotton Trad 15m Classic
Kyle Johnson
Great route, looking forward to trying it lead on pro

 
Fri 23rd Feb 2024 - Wye Creek
North Side Project Wall
23 Blood On The Tracks Sport 27m, 10 Very Good
Nick O'Rourke
close but no cigar

 
25 Eat Yourself Fitter Sport 22m, 8
Nick O'Rourke
working the last crux move before the chains

 
Fri 23rd Feb 2024 - Wye Creek
South Side Little Black Wall
23 Crusty Demons Sport 10m, 4 Very Good
Nick O'Rourke
fell on the last move. too dark for another attempt will be back for this one. good powerful climb

 
20 Le Beau Sport 12m, 5 Good
Nick O'Rourke
thin technical climb

 
Fri 23rd Feb 2024 - Wye Creek
South Side Zippity Zappity Wall
25 Resurrection Sport 25m, 8 Very Good
Nick O'Rourke
Gave it a razz. could do all the moves except the last couple before the anchor. bailed. good climbing regardless, steep, thin, technical

 
18 Unlawful Discharge Sport 25m, 7 Very Good
Nick O'Rourke
real good

 
19 How's That Zap Sport 26m, 8 Classic
Nick O'Rourke
Probably one of the best 19s in the area. Giving it 3 stars ya dogs

 
Fri 23rd Feb 2024 - Hospital Flat
Hangover
21 ~22 Ed the Protester Sport 20m, 6 Very Good
Pak
Cannot find a way to go straigh up. Have to start from a bit right.

 
24 Easy Size Counts Sport 15m, 4 Good
Pak
Tricky start then overhang. Hard to on sigh as the hold to pass the overhang is not obvious.

 
22 Fur Breath Sport 15m, 7 Very Good
Pak
Fun face climb

 
24 ~23 Preloader Sport 15m Average
Pak
The climb is ok, but the rock is bad.

 
20 ~21 She's a Little Goer Sport 20m, 9 Very Good
Pak
Good face climbing until the ledge. Then dirty overhang with good hold.

 
Fri 23rd Feb 2024 - Wye Creek
North Side Hidden Wall
25 Emma Louise Sport 15m, 6
Jay
Was pretty wrecked from trying Bottom Feeders, but worked out the moves without much difficulty. Be keen to try it again

 
26 Bottom Feeders Sport 12m, 8
Jay
This feels pretty nails - I can't even imagine doing the moves through the crux. The traverse at the start is super fun though.

 
21 Hard Beryl Vibe Sport 12m, 5
Jay
Pretty stiff at 21 but super fun climb!

 
Wed 21st Feb 2024 - Mount Iron
Iron Curtain
24 The Bastard from Gunn Rd — 2 attempts Sport 20m, 10 Very Good
Pak
Worked out all the move for the right version. Just too pump after the crux. Tried left version, cannot hold on to the slippy side pull...

 
Wed 21st Feb 2024 - Hospital Flat
The Crackhouse
20 Critics' Choice - with Jess Cotton Sport 30m, 8 Very Good
Kyle Johnson
Fell right at first bolt going direct up the crack, hard start for the grade, looks like people have been going left but didn't feel right to skip the crack. Came down then went again and climbed to the top

 
Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Matukituki Valley
Hells Gate
24 Taniwha - with Ben Mitchell Sport 210m, 16
Owyn Aitken
Some great pitches, a bit dirty here and there

 
Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Hospital Flat
Kai Whaka Pai
19 Split Decision Sport 16m, 7 Very Good
Katie G
A grade 20 move on an otherwise 17-18 climb. Fun climbing with some great moves.

 
Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Matukituki Valley
Hells Gate
24 Taniwha - with Owyn Aitken Sport 210m, 16 Very Good
Ben Mitchell
Fun day out! The approach was a doddle - start of the track is marked by a cairn, a trapping box, a slashed tree and a pink marker. Owyn led pitches 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9. We both took air time pulling off key jugs on pitch 3 (maybe it's harder now?). The five harder pitches all involved some dogging, made easier by the generous bolting - kudos to Ed and Guy. Quite a few hangars have come loose so bring a spanner. Some of the pitches were either blocky or dirty but the overall atmosphere and the great climbing on pitches 4, 8 and 9 made it all worth it.

 
Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Motatapu Valley
Roadside Area Farside
22 Fine Ground Sport 12m, 4
Ryan Yong
OS no bueno

 
Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Wye Creek
North Side Eweniverse Wall
20 Saperlipopette! Sport 18m, 7 Good
Pak
Cannot find a way to go up directly after 2nd bolt. Moved a bit right.

 
23 ~24 Weapons Sport 18m, 7 Very Good
Pak
Harder then 24 around....cannot work out the move to pass the crux.

 
24 Wandering Star Sport 15m, 8 Very Good
Pak
The last 2 bolt is dirty.

 
22 Epoxy Passion Sport 20m, 8 Very Good
Pak
Easy to past the crux after I get the beta.

 

Showing 201 - 300 out of 4,709 ascents.

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