Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Fri 8th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Bolt City | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Labours Of Love - with Alex Popinga | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Silly slip on my flash attempt. But I would have probably come off at the last bolt anyway, which seems like the crux. I did all the moves fairly easily and the route seems suited to me. Hopefully I can get another go on this fresh!
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Fri 8th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Southern Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★ The Shady Rest - with Alex Popinga | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice little route. Quite off-balance in a couple of places, cool movement.
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Fri 8th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
The Caves | |||||||
19 | ★★ Cadbury Flakies - with Alex Popinga | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Warm up
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23 | ★★ El Zymer - with Alex Popinga | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Much easier second time, knowing where to not muck around. #2ndgo
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23 | ★★ El Zymer - with Alex Popinga | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Onsight attempt came up short at the last bolt going over the slopey lip.
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Thu 7th Mar 2024 - Diamond Lake | |||||||
Rumour Mill | |||||||
25 | ★ Crescendo | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One hung on the onsight attempt. A couple bigger moves but good holds all the way. Feels soft for the grade - hard to believe it used to be 26! Shame about the chossy stuff at the start and finish, otherwise good fun.
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23 ~21 | ★★ Canary in a Coal Mine | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really lovely moves on good holds. Well worth doing but no way is it a 23. The 21 it joins into felt harder to me...
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Thu 7th Mar 2024 - Wye Creek | |||||||
South Side Main Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dream Thing - with Clément | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Antistyle for me for sure but awesome climb. Done in 2 parts but probably would send if/when I attempt again.
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16 | ★★★ The Mission - with Clément | 28m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awesome views.
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19 Hard | ★★ 88 Chocolate Treats - with Clément | 31m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Post concussion weakness hit hard on this one. Probably still a hard 19 but definitely was weak. Super cool rock formation at the top, feels like you're climbing on bones.
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Wed 6th Mar 2024 - Mount Iron | |||||||
The Next Best Thing | |||||||
20 ~21 | ★ Hydrophobia | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
The climb is good, but the rock is not. Last climb of the day, no more juice leave..
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19 | ★ Toe the Line | 20m, 8 | |||||
Repeat
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Wed 6th Mar 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Roadside Area Farside | |||||||
22 | ★★ Girl on the Run | 13m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I enjoyed this one! Fun bouldery moves through the middle section then glory jugs to finish.
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Tue 5th Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Sunnyside | |||||||
20 | ★★ Giz-a-Combo | 19m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
On the reachy side but made it work with some high feet!
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22 ~21 | ★★ Sisters of Mercy | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very enjoyable climbing but felt easier than 22
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Tue 5th Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Warm Leatharête | |||||||
24 Easy | ★★ Edge of Reality | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very enjoyable. Cool moves up the arete to start then nice holds on the face. A few sits to plan my next move but nothing felt too hard once I found the sequence. Hopefully we get another cool enough day on this trip to return...
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Tue 5th Mar 2024 - Mount Iron | |||||||
Iron Curtain | |||||||
24 | ★★ The Bastard from Gunn Rd — 2 attempts | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Worked out a new beta without jumping at the crux.
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Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - The Remarkables | |||||||
The Grand Traverse | |||||||
2+ | ★★★ The Grand Traverse - with Kyle | 210m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super fun scramble with a couple of sections we pitched. Super cool exposure. Super cool views! Completely snow free which made it much more of a relaxing day out to goof off on a mountain
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Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - Mapoutahi | |||||||
Main Wall | |||||||
20 | ★ Ejectoflap | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
pretty hard for a 20...
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Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - Mapoutahi | |||||||
Eldorado Wall | |||||||
17 Hard | ★★ Golden Showers | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cool climb, fun and diverse set of moves
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Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - Mapoutahi | |||||||
Main Wall | |||||||
19 Easy | ★ Greek Gift 2 | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Cool climb! Mellow up to the last few bolts and then a fun, thuggy finish
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Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - The Remarkables | |||||||
Single Cone East Face | |||||||
15 | ★ Delta - with Gareth | 200m | ★ Good | ||||
Picked a slightly harder line than the normal one, going a bit further right on the slab. Went right again from the belay on the ledge to go up some more slabs and then a chimney between Delta and Epsilon.
Variation on the first pitch was a grade 17ish slab, including a pretty spicy swing I was happy Gareth led, and a 30m runout. The second pitch was probably a stiff 15 (but super fun climbing the whole time). Fun scramble to the top, took us to the slabs of the NE Ridge |
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Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ The Engorger | 25m, 7 | |||||
pumpy
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Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Whale Watching | |||||||
18 ~19 | ★★ Via Frittata | 20m, 9 | Don't Bother | ||||
The climb is ok but the position of the anchor is really bad, the worst archor position ever. The climb should end at the same face not at the far back slap. So much rope drag. Very painful to clean.
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20 | ★★ No Thanks I'd Rather Walk | 15m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really good climb
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24 Easy | ★★ Flensing the Stone | 15m, 8 | |||||
Last climb of the date, tired. Nothing particular hard, just need to know the hold.
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19 ~20 | ★ Blubber | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
More like a hard 20 to me...
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Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Diamond Lake | |||||||
Pencil Dick Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ My Little One | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One rest on the overlap other than that all clean. Hopefully next time. Crimps carved out by jesus himself
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20 | ★★ Stick It In | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pumpy but good
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Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Diamond Lake | |||||||
Spade Slab | |||||||
24 | ★★★ 10 Dollars is Cool | 20m, 9 | |||||
Hard boulder crux off the ground. Fairly cruisy and techy from there.
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Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Diamond Lake | |||||||
Pencil Dick Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ My Little One — 4 attempts | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Onsight attempt went so well - sat once after the whip. Steadily got worse, should go next session.
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21 Hard | ★★ Botox Viagra | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Warm up. Fell once. Clean from there. Will try again as my warm up again.
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Fri 1st Mar 2024 - The Remarkables | |||||||
Double Cone East Face | |||||||
17 ~16 | ★ Alta La Vista - with Alex Heanly | 300m | Average | ||||
First two pitches were good but we got a bit off route and missed the crux pitch by going too far left. Had another two pitches at a pretty solid 16 through a chimney & ledge system and then simulled through easy terrain to the top.
One stellar section was a hand crack for about 30m at about grade 15, but the rest was kinda average. |
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Fri 1st Mar 2024 - Wye Creek | |||||||
North Side Eweniverse Wall | |||||||
26 | ★★ Along Came a Spider — 3 attempts | 10m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really cool climb! End is nails
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Fri 1st Mar 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Lollapalooza | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cannot do the crux move and too tired to clip the last bolt....
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24 ~23 | ★★★ Zoot Alors — 2 attempts | 25m, 7 | |||||
Fell both try before the last bolt..
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24 | ★ Hasta Luego | 19m, 9 | |||||
Weird climb have to move left and right on slippy sloper
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Fri 1st Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
The Cutting | |||||||
19 | ★ Cleaning for the Hell Of It - with Jess Cotton | 20m, 6 | |||||
Repeat warm up
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Fri 1st Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Falcon Steep Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Falcon Steep - with Jess Cotton | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Felt much easier this time being able to use ally fingers on my hand and no splits. Great route
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26 | ★★ The 2.4 Minute Man — 2 attempts - with Jess Cotton | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thought this was an awesome route, thin holds at times with some cool moves. Did It in two parts, hopefully will go next time
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Fri 1st Mar 2024 - Wye Creek | |||||||
North Side Eweniverse Wall | |||||||
23 ~24 | ★ Weapons | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Seems very beta intensive. Basically a dyno crux then a technical crux. Could well be 24
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Thu 29th Feb 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
The Cutting | |||||||
18 | ★★ Henry the Eighth | 20m, 9 | |||||
friendly fun route
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Thu 29th Feb 2024 - Drift Bay | |||||||
The Boneyard | |||||||
21 | Clavicle | 8m, 3 | |||||
Underrated!
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Thu 29th Feb 2024 - Wye Creek | |||||||
North Side Hidden Wall | |||||||
23 Hard | ★★ Black Stump | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good fingery climbing, lovely glory jug at the top of the steep stuff
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Thu 29th Feb 2024 - Chinaman's Bluff | |||||||
Ravages Area | |||||||
24 |
★ What's up DOC
- with
Dave Eckl
1
18
20
2
18
20
lead by
Dave Eckl
Guide doesnt mention much but a really nice pitch following a finger crack transitioning into an awesome flake. laybacking.
3
24
25
steep pumpy climbing into the crux bulge on small crimps. Took a giant whip pulling the crux ended up upside down every which way. Had another go but pumped out. rested below the crux before getting it. rest of the climb is very good
4
21
25
lead by
Dave Eckl
A really good pitch and route. Would love to see it have more traffic. Steep climbing on crimps with a sting before the anchors | 90m, 30 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A great route
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Wed 28th Feb 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Main Wall Right Side | |||||||
25 | Never Enough | 14m, 4 | |||||
Crux felt a little bit contrived
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25 Hard | ★★★ Perfect Skin | 14m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Took quite a few sessions
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Wed 28th Feb 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Roadside Area Roadside Attraction | |||||||
22 ~24 | ★★ Everything but the Formalities | 15m, 6 | |||||
Seems like some hold below the overhang is broken and the rock don't look solid. Retreated after 2nd bolt.
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Wed 28th Feb 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Roadside Area Al Cove | |||||||
23 Easy | ★★ Roche Moutonnee | 16m, 8 | |||||
Climbed the 24 before, so the ceiling is easy to me. It is like a 18 up to the ceiling
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24 ~23 | ★ The Fearsome Flounder | 20m, 8 | |||||
Just 1 hard crimpy move.
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Wed 28th Feb 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
The Cutting | |||||||
21 | ★★ Gone by Lunchtime - with Jess Cotton | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Another great route
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20 | ★★ The Philosopher's Stone - with Jess Cotton | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Awesome route
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23 | ★★ The Secret to Happiness - with Jess Cotton | 20m, 9 | |||||
Retro flash, tried it last winter and the bottom and bits in the middle was soaking and slimy. Good to come back and do it first try.
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18 | ★★ Henry the Eighth | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Warm up
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Tue 27th Feb 2024 - Wye Creek | |||||||
North Side Project Wall | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Xenalasia | 27m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Put off trying this because it looked hard. Super fun moves, and no showstoppers. Top is going to be mega pumpy.
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24 Hard | ★★ Rgrgrgrgr — 2 attempts | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really fun climb!
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Mon 26th Feb 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
The Office | |||||||
24 | ★★ Fountain Of Youth | 20m, 9 | |||||
Sting in the tail, thought I had the onsight for a second.
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Mon 26th Feb 2024 - The Remarkables | |||||||
West Face Telecom Tower | |||||||
18 Easy |
★★★ Indian Summer
- with
Riccardo, Gareth
2
16
50
lead by
Gareth
Gareth led up the mossy face on the right side of the corner. Good pro, but not as classic as pitch one.
3
15
60
lead by
Riccardo
Riccardo's first lead on gear. Pretty non-obvious where to go so he had to quest out in a few different directions. Eventually, did a low traverse and went up an unprotected steep slab, which seemed roughly right and took us up to a bolted anchor in the boulder field, so I guess it was the right way. Pretty random place to have a belay TBH.
4
18
60
lead by
Jay
Description in the guide is not great. There are heaps of options from the ledge. I think we tried every single one of them, before eventually finding the where you were meant to go up. Lot's of up and down climbing! | 200m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Cool day out. Climbing is pretty cruisy for the grade but finding pitch 4 was a bit weird.
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Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Diamond Lake | |||||||
Sharon Stone | |||||||
18 ~20 | ★★ Fuck Bunny Arete | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Again, seems like a 20 after climbed the 25.
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18 ~20 | ★ Chugnuts | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Quite dirty. Seems more like 20 to me. Or may be i was just too tired after climbed the 25.
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25 | ★ Wind Me Up — 2 attempts | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Very dirty after the 5th bolt, seems like nobody climbed for long time. Just 1 reachy crimpy move.
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Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Dragon's Lair | |||||||
18 Hard | ★★ When The Fog Lifts | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Even though I tried to avoid it, I also succumbed to the beached whale mantle.
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24 | ★★ Now That The Love Has Gone | 11m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Three bolts. Fun bouldery start, throwing from a small crimp to good ledge. Then excellent slab climbing with perfect edges and an easy mantle to finish. There's a horizontal break for a potential (purple) cam placement to protect this last move, but it's pretty bad. At least the next bolt isn't too far below and the climbing is easy from there...
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Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | |||||||
Southern Wall | |||||||
20 | ★ Flash Bomb | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun layback up the crack, taking me right back to the Darrrans
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Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Wye Creek | |||||||
North Side Admiral Wall | |||||||
22 | ★ Frogaroo | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Couple burns. Got pumped out
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20 | ★ Introspection | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Pumpy
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Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Hospital Flat Boulders | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Magic Mushroom | 8m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very nearly flashed the thing then unable to reach my high point.
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V2 | ★ v2 smoke — 2 attempts | ★ Good | |||||
Feels oddly committing with the potential for a bad fall. Took me one go to find the courage.
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V3 | V3b smoke | Crap | |||||
Super dirty and chossy. Best stay off this one.
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V2 ~V3 | ★★ V2 bl — 7 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Harder than it looks. Awkward move to the lip.
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Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Diamond Lake | |||||||
Pencil Dick Wall | |||||||
25 | ★ Grazon Against Wooly Wullens - with Jess Cotton | 18m, 7 | |||||
Tried it a bit to late into the day after being at hotline area, sun had come round and blinding looking left, made looking for holds much harder and was very warm. Not to hard once I figured out the move to get to the corner. Reckon next attempt in the shade it will go.
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Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Diamond Lake | |||||||
Hotline Corner | |||||||
16 | ★★ Shitty Shit Shit - with Jess Cotton | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fun lil adventure up the crack
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19 | ★★★ Fuckity Fuck Fuck - with Jess Cotton | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great route
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18 |
★ Hey George P1
- with
Jess Cotton
1
18
15m
| 15m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Just first pitch to set up hotline top rope, awesome dihedral
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22 | ★★★ The Hotline - with Jess Cotton | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great route, looking forward to trying it lead on pro
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Fri 23rd Feb 2024 - Wye Creek | |||||||
North Side Project Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Blood On The Tracks | 27m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
close but no cigar
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25 | ★★ Eat Yourself Fitter | 22m, 8 | |||||
working the last crux move before the chains
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Fri 23rd Feb 2024 - Wye Creek | |||||||
South Side Little Black Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★ Crusty Demons | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
fell on the last move. too dark for another attempt will be back for this one. good powerful climb
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20 | ★ Le Beau | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
thin technical climb
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Fri 23rd Feb 2024 - Wye Creek | |||||||
South Side Zippity Zappity Wall | |||||||
25 | ★★ Resurrection | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Gave it a razz. could do all the moves except the last couple before the anchor. bailed. good climbing regardless, steep, thin, technical
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18 | ★★ Unlawful Discharge | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
real good
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19 | ★★ How's That Zap | 26m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Probably one of the best 19s in the area. Giving it 3 stars ya dogs
|
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Fri 23rd Feb 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Hangover | |||||||
21 ~22 | ★★ Ed the Protester | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cannot find a way to go straigh up. Have to start from a bit right.
|
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24 Easy | ★ Size Counts | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Tricky start then overhang. Hard to on sigh as the hold to pass the overhang is not obvious.
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22 | ★★ Fur Breath | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun face climb
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24 ~23 | Preloader | 15m | Average | ||||
The climb is ok, but the rock is bad.
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20 ~21 | ★★ She's a Little Goer | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good face climbing until the ledge. Then dirty overhang with good hold.
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Fri 23rd Feb 2024 - Wye Creek | |||||||
North Side Hidden Wall | |||||||
25 | ★ Emma Louise | 15m, 6 | |||||
Was pretty wrecked from trying Bottom Feeders, but worked out the moves without much difficulty. Be keen to try it again
|
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26 | ★★ Bottom Feeders | 12m, 8 | |||||
This feels pretty nails - I can't even imagine doing the moves through the crux. The traverse at the start is super fun though.
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21 Hard | ★ Beryl Vibe | 12m, 5 | |||||
Pretty stiff at 21 but super fun climb!
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Wed 21st Feb 2024 - Mount Iron | |||||||
Iron Curtain | |||||||
24 | ★★ The Bastard from Gunn Rd — 2 attempts | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Worked out all the move for the right version. Just too pump after the crux. Tried left version, cannot hold on to the slippy side pull...
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Wed 21st Feb 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
The Crackhouse | |||||||
20 | ★★ Critics' Choice - with Jess Cotton | 30m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fell right at first bolt going direct up the crack, hard start for the grade, looks like people have been going left but didn't feel right to skip the crack. Came down then went again and climbed to the top
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Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Matukituki Valley | |||||||
Hells Gate | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Taniwha - with Ben Mitchell | 210m, 16 | |||||
Some great pitches, a bit dirty here and there
|
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Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Hospital Flat | |||||||
Kai Whaka Pai | |||||||
19 | ★★ Split Decision | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A grade 20 move on an otherwise 17-18 climb. Fun climbing with some great moves.
|
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Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Matukituki Valley | |||||||
Hells Gate | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Taniwha - with Owyn Aitken | 210m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun day out! The approach was a doddle - start of the track is marked by a cairn, a trapping box, a slashed tree and a pink marker. Owyn led pitches 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9. We both took air time pulling off key jugs on pitch 3 (maybe it's harder now?). The five harder pitches all involved some dogging, made easier by the generous bolting - kudos to Ed and Guy. Quite a few hangars have come loose so bring a spanner. Some of the pitches were either blocky or dirty but the overall atmosphere and the great climbing on pitches 4, 8 and 9 made it all worth it.
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Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Roadside Area Farside | |||||||
22 | ★★ Fine Ground | 12m, 4 | |||||
OS no bueno
|
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Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Wye Creek | |||||||
North Side Eweniverse Wall | |||||||
20 | ★ Saperlipopette! | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Cannot find a way to go up directly after 2nd bolt. Moved a bit right.
|
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23 ~24 | ★ Weapons | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Harder then 24 around....cannot work out the move to pass the crux.
|
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24 | ★★ Wandering Star | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The last 2 bolt is dirty.
|
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22 | ★ Epoxy Passion | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Easy to past the crux after I get the beta.
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