Ascents in North America as Tick as trad

Rope was getting in the way

Only p1+2! Really lovely, keen for the rest

Does it count as a clean send if you undergrip on mega jugs on a 5.8 then fall 2m onto a ledge standing and your belayer doesn't even notice?

Sick Yosemite intro - p6 was the scariest thing I've ever led, 2 pitons and one worthwhile cam placement over 30m of traversing while still not totally trusting the granite smears - the handholds were the equivalent of pulling on a stale arnotts lemon crisp at points.

Felt like I went through a footwork class over 10 pitches and it finally started to click by the end. Shit's rough in the valley.

Linked 1/2, 3/4, 7-8.5 then ran out of rope.

Fell on the last hard move misreading the move right where the crack ends. Incredible movement on thin crack. Would be nice to come back to it to dial the gear and try on lead!

Polished start with no hands meant fell heaps. Can I even call myself a slab climber? After the start, padding up the runnel was truly a unique feeling. No way I'd want to lead the second pitch with one bolt in 30 mt. WHATAPLACE!

Indian creek rock up at the car park and ask the first crew you see to climb with you pays off.

Saw a group of 6 fun looking folk hanging around and asked if I could join them, they said they didn't know what they were climbing - just said they were waiting for a friend to arrive and they were doing some of their wide FAs.

Well their friend was Pamela Pack and it turns out I was dropping in on her art of offwidth clinic and she was stoked to have me to mooch off her knowledge. With unmatched stoke and enthusiasm "And who's this guy???? Got a rope? Let's go climb some wide stuff!"

Learned how to tape effectively, how to climb every size on this climb - it tapers (very smoothly) from #1 to #8 - did this on a mock lead, placing #8 cams feels exactly as sick as you think it does. Had Pam spraying me down on. A fixed line from above and Gisely from the ground, doesn't get better than this.

Best climbing day ever? Certainly up there.

Pitch 3 and 4 have to be as good as 5.8 trad gets, phenomenal line. Absolutely worth the repeat to do the upper pitches

What a spectacular route, 5 pitches of 3 star funk followed by 4 pitches of varnish plates which are really just runout heady sport pitches. Soon to be repeat ascensionists beware of the convenient ledge half way up pitch 7, the Mississippi mud falcon an emergency landing there, you can get a good look at it on rappel if you really want, should hopefully leave the ledge after the next spot of rain. 11 car to car, fantastic middle of the supermarket bar (????) beers to cap it off

Hard but high quality.

Probando stoppers con El buen Serch. Solo se me botó una pieza en toda la vía.

Este día limpié la grieta y probé las protecciones.

mental training lap, weghted/fell on every piece i placed

Cool moves. There is pro on P2 traverse but need small cams for that and for anchor. Bootied a cam.

Beautiful line! Canned beans are not my friend....

Just another route to add to the list of things that might make you a believer. I had the pleasure of jugging/climbing/shenaniganing behind Sam on his glorious 22 hour all free ascent of El Corazon (the El Coraziad).

Brittany, Victoria, and I jugged to Mammoth the night before to try and maximise our sleep then the next morning Adrian and Sam simuled to Mammoth and collected their pre-rigged belayers (Brittany and I (Victoria just came to hang out and talk shit bc she’s a legend)) and Sam and I started romping while Adrian and Brittany chilled on the ledge to give us some time to create a gap so Adrian could start his attempt without us being in the way. Pretty classic scenes on the big stone if you ask me.

Highlights included: - Listening to multiple Lorde albums in full - Jugging the Nietzsche chimney and being rewarded with a lie down on Babsi’s portaledge - Taking a whole bunch of fucked up pendulums cleaning Sam’s gear to save time (“should i lower out or just take the fall?” “nah you’ll be fine there’s nothing to hit just take the whip”) - Sam firing every pitch like an absolute machine with only one fall on the Beak Flake - Jugging with two back packs - Down aiding the end of the roof pitch because Sam forgot to back clean his gear and i couldn’t lower out and also did not want to take the 15mpendulum whipper into the Tower - Having a chorus of 10 or so people from different routes cheer Sam on as he sent the roof traverse as the sun finished setting - Arriving at the tower and being handed a cup of tea that had been made by Miska and her partner who sent Golden Gate - Honestly just the whole thing. Supporting your friends to achieve their dreams is the fucking coolest thing ever.

I won’t forget this day for a long while. Thanks Sam.

Dirty, leaves, cold hands, pretty easy. Rapped off City Lights.

Hung after crux on pitch 2. Pumped out.

Hung after crux due to pump. Can definitely lead this. need to come back and project this.

p1 only

For the descent take care, it might not be easy to locate it especially in the dark.

After topping out you follow a trail and a bunch of cairns down. Then you continue walking down on some slabs The rap station is as you walk down facing the valley to the right hand side (Skier's-right) A chain on a ledge with usually some fixed ropes, We did 6 raps (the last 2 were short)

Do NOT go left! Do NOT rap from the tat and old rings that are on a very dead looking tree.

After the raps follow a long but obvious trail through the trees and back on the road