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Southwest Base Area

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Access issues inherited from Yosemite National Park

As of 27/06/22:

-"A reservation will be required to drive into or through Yosemite National Park from May 20 through September 30, 2022, for those driving into the park between 6 am and 4 pm." (note this may occur through a in-park camping or accomodation permit or wilderness/bigwall permit), a permit is NOT required if entering the park outside of these hours. (ref: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/reservations.htm )

-"As of May 2021, a wilderness permit is required for all overnight big wall climbs. During this pilot, wilderness permits for climbers are free and there are no quotas or limits on the number of permits available." (ref: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingpermits.htm ). See previous link for details on picking up this permit.

Approach

Walk to the base of 'The Nose' of El Capitan. The first climb you will come to along the base of the cliff is 'Moby Dick'. 'Pine Line' is accesssed by traversing along the ledge to the right of 'Moby Dick'. To get to 'La Escuela', etc, keep heading up the scree covered slopes at the base of the cliff.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Pro to 2.5".

FA: Yvon Chouinard & TM Herbert, 1962

FFA: Steve Wuncsh & Mark Chapman, 1973

Alternate P3 finish for La Escuela named after the late Micah Dash. Pro to 3" with extra 2" cams.

FFA: James Selvidge & Melissa Michelitsch, 2010

FA: Eric Beck & Steve Williams, 1969

Pro to 6", 2 ea. 2"-5".

FA: Chuck Pratt & Royal Robbins, 1965

FFA: Pat Ament & Larry Dalke, 1967

Pro to 6". P2 and P3 often linked.

FA: Charlie Raymond & Wally Reed, 1958

FFA: Pat Ament & Larry Dalke, 1967

Fabulous steep jam crack from narrow hand to offwidth. Pro to 6" with doubles to 3". Two rope rappel.

FFA: Frank Sacherer & Mike Sherrick, 1964

Pro to 3", 2-3 ea. 0.75"-1.5".

FFA: Mark Chapman & Art Higbee, 1974

Small pro. Usually top-roped by climbing the first 40ft of Sacherer Cracker to the bolts.

FFA: Tobin Sorenson & John Bachar, 1974

Pro to 4".

FA: unknown

FFA: Clint Cummins, 1988

Offwidth/lieback/chimney variation up the large flake on the left.

FFA: Bob Kamps, Galen Rowell, Dan Doody & Wally Upton, 1962

Pro to 4". Stem, jam, chimney, and mantel your way up this surprisingly steep pitch.

FFA: Bob Kamps, Galen Rowell, Dan Doody & Wally Upton, 1962

Pro to 3.5". Traverse right along the horizontal crack (and a piton), then mantel your way up the bolted blunt arête.

FFA: Pete Takeda & Eric Kohl, 1991

Start on La Cosita right, then move up the bolted arête to the shared chain top anchor. Pro to 2".

FFA: Chris Craig & Mike Creel, 1988

Pro to 2".

FA: TM Herbert & Steve Roper, 1963

Pro to 4".

FFA: Dan Doody, Bob Kamps, Galen Rowell & Wally Upton, 1962

Starts atop 'Little John, Left'. Pro to 1.5". This route can be top-roped by ascending the Heart Ledges fixed lines and swinging over to the bolted top anchor.

FFA: Dale Bard & et al., 1972

Pro to 3".

FFA: Jack Turner & Royal Robbins, 1962

FFA: Ken Ariza, Mark Carpenter & Dimitri Barton, 1985

Pro 2 ea. to 4".

FFA: Bob Kamps & Frank Sacherer, 1963

Difficult fingers at the start leading to a sustained wide section. Beautiful climbing.

Pro to 4.5", 2 ea. 4".

FFA: Franch Sacherer & Steve Roper, 1963

FA: Herb Swedlund & Penny Carr, 1963

Pro to 6".

FA: Frank Sacherer & Jim Bridwell, 1964

FFA: Charles Cole & Rusty Reno, 1988

Pro to 2". Bolted top anchor. Two rope rappel.

FFA: Wally Reed & Mike Borghoff, 1963

Pro to 1". Bolted top anchor. Two rope rappel.

FA: Mark Chapman & Rick Sylvester, 1971

FFA: Clint Cummins & John Lockhart, 1988

Face climbing left of the P1 of Salathé Wall. Pro to 2". Two rope rappel.

FFA: Clint Cummins & Dan Nguyen, 1988

FFA: Joel Ager & Clint Cummins, 1989

Pro to 2.5". Bolted top anchor. Two rope rappel.

FA: Jim Sims & Steve Roper, 1963

FFA: Chris Fredericks & Frank Sacherer, 1965

Pro to 2". Bolted top anchor.

FA: Glen Denny & Eric Beck, 1963

FFA: Vern Clevenger, 1975

Pro to 2".

FFA: Jeff Schaffer & Greg Schaffer, 1966

Climb directly after Pine Line leading to the base of the Nose. 3 bolts with great placement for trad gear. Lay back crack climb.

P1 and P2 only of the Salathé Wall. Pro to 4".

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Shannon Joslin, James Lucas and Kimbrough Moore

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9781735608006

Detailing more than 1,300 boulder problems and packed with personal essays and breathtaking photos, Yosemite Bouldering is a must-have guidebook for anyone climbing in Yosemite.

  • Contains detailed descriptions of more than 1,300 boulder problems, including over 400 new problems and 7 new bouldering areas
  • Color coded entries and GPS coordinates help you choose and find your problems
  • Full-color 1st edition features multiple personal essays and breathtaking climbing photos

Author(s): Kimbrough Moore, Shannon Joslin, Leo Popovic

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9798218007959

Edgewalker Entertainment:
A comprehensive guide to the greater Bay Area of California, Golden State Bouldering provides readers with info on the outdoor bouldering around San Francisco, Sacramento, Santa Rosa and Santa Cruz.
  • Describes 1,600 boulder problems with hundreds of color photos, maps, GPS coordinates and hand-drawn illustrations

Author(s): Toby Evans

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9781493045464

FalconGuides:
Hiking the State's 15 Peaks Over 14,000 Feet. Developed for every skill level, the FalconGuides Climbing California's Fourteeners lays out plans and logistics for making your climb a positive experience—no matter how many summits you've reached.
  • California's 15 peaks over 14,000 ft. are becoming more popular, and this book provides essential information for taking them on
  • Each mountain is broken down based on the technical skills needed so you know what to expect
  • Details for each climb include a list of recommended equipment, how to prepare for rapidly changing weather and trail conditions, and a general timeframe needed to summit

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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