Ascents in North America as trad

Wowwwwww!!!

Great climb with Dom and Mat. Took 6h round trip. We climbed a few variants by accident.

P1 we climbed up another slab on the right and traversed back over to the anchor. P2 we climbed past the intended anchor into the left variant of P3 P3 we climbed up the slab to downclimb traverse the slab back to the anchor P4 left variant, past the anchor, gear belay in the wider section P5 short pitch to the anchor below the bolted slab variant of P6 P6 horrible slab of doom (took a fall while seconding) P7-8-9 were on track

a good day out, if you a confident mid tens climber you can probably do it all in approach shoes.

Trad lead.

Great beginner trad lead.

spent a night hanging out on the new ledge at the anchors of Cling Peaches, then linked Sodbuster and Curley as one pitch the next morning.

#1 of the day. Kevin led the first pitch cuz I was in my head and didn't want to have to think. He then talked me into doing the second pitch. Walked off instead of doing the R rated 3rd pitch. Great route!

#2. Typical of NS, this felt like way more than a 5.7 at the start, then it opened up and I ran it out up to the tree at the top of the first pitch - used a 00 dragon, a 0.4 friend, a .75 green BD. Maybe a red #1 BD and a nut, too?

Rested once after the second can placement, as I was exhausted from the heat.

Also due to the heat, Kevin gassed out part way up, so I lowered him (thanks again to Climb NS' Basic Self Rescue course) and rapped down, getting the rope stuck. Oof.

So Kevin then jugged up, freed the rope and rapped down from the Sleeper Cell rings.

Hope to be back for a second attempt, and to try the second pitch.

Was expecting to be able to use more jams but only used one ringlock and one hand jam.

I think I've actually figured out hand jamming finally

Shorter folk, and those not confident on vertical cracks will find this splitter a bit challenging.

Well, as the name implies, I definitely stitched and bitched on the upper crack. That thing is thin!

Watch out for bats nesting in the cracks X)