Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 7th Aug 2022 - Popran | ||||||
19 | ★★ Little green slugs | 42m | ★ Good | |||
2 laps for training the neighbours in top belay and multipitch technique
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17 | ★ Ethel the aardvark | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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17 | ★ The Meaning of Liff | 45m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Sat 6th Aug 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Gate Crag Central Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★ Fat lipped | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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20 | ★★ Titania | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt x2.
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Tue 19th Jul 2022 - South West Rocks | ||||||
Little Bay Mermaid Castle | ||||||
20 | ★★ Bosuns Chair | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Nice horizontals, I thought the start on king Neptune was the hardest part
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18 | ★ King Neptune | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Very awkward start, I always find deep V grooves hard
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25 | ★★★ Triple Overhead | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Maybe only 24, but we weren’t placing gear on lead. Great fun. A direct start looks possible which would definitely be 25. Well protected but could feel fiddly on an onsight attempt.
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Sun 17th Jul 2022 - South West Rocks | ||||||
Arakoon Mermaid Pools | ||||||
V1 | ★★ Great White | |||||
V3 | ★★ White Pointer | |||||
V1 | Sucker Fish | |||||
V0 | Scaler | |||||
V2 | ★★ Shuck | |||||
V4 | Pitfall | |||||
V0 | The Deep | |||||
Sat 16th Jul 2022 - South West Rocks | ||||||
Arakoon Walk in Wall | ||||||
V0 | Fruit | 2m | ||||
V0 | Short persons revenge | 2m | ||||
V1 | Scrunched short person | 3m | ||||
Sat 16th Jul 2022 - South West Rocks | ||||||
Arakoon Mermaid Pools | ||||||
V3 | ★ Pip | ★ Good | ||||
Lovely finger crack
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V2 | ★ SLOP | |||||
V2 | ★ Kapow | |||||
V1 | SLAP | |||||
Sat 16th Jul 2022 - South West Rocks | ||||||
Arakoon Walk in Wall | ||||||
V0 | Rachael and the Dolphins | |||||
V2 | ★ Cooked | |||||
Climbing between the wet spots
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V0 | ★ Becs Edge | |||||
V0 | Rock Pool Flake | |||||
VB | Rock Pool Crack | |||||
V2 | Sunny Day | |||||
V1 | ★ The Black Spot | |||||
Fri 8th Jul 2022 - Bulahdelah | ||||||
Beehive Area | ||||||
23 | ★ The Window Cleaner | 14m | Average | |||
2 goes, one sit second go when I forgot the sequence. Painful, really needs anchors
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21 | ★★ Golden Nectar | 14m | ★ Good | |||
2 laps, good for power endurance
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18 | ★ Bee Sting | 15m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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22 | ★★ Horse breath | 17m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, was worried it may be wet but it was pretty good.
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Thu 30th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Gate Crag Central Buttress | ||||||
24 | ★★ Moonlight Raid | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Did everything but the short person crux. Was in good form when I last did this,
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20 | ★★ Titania | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
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Wed 29th Jun 2022 - Popran | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Rock 'n' Roll Mr Creosote | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, such a nice climb I did it twice. Huge snake in the pocket a metre left of the 4th bolt
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24 | ★★ Ophidiophobia | 26m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Alzheimers os, to the anchors of Mr C. Easier than 24 but maybe better for the short
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19 | ★★ Little green slugs | 42m | ★ Good | |||
A shuffle of the bolts would make this feel a bit safer
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17 | ★ The Meaning of Liff | 45m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Snake around the horizontal break
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20 21 | ★★ Flying Circus | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, anchors wet, rest ok.
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Sun 26th Jun 2022 - Joll's Bridge | ||||||
Lower cliffline | ||||||
16 | ★ Chocolate Coated Parents | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, surprisingly clean today and climbs nicely. I was surprised.
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21 | ★★ The Climb that was | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, couple of laps.
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17 | ★ Natie Head | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Some ok movement
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19 | ★★ Bad Luck Silverback | 12m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Two laps for good measure.
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25 | ★★ Channel Bill Cuckoo | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Reacquainting myself with the two finger pocket. Rest of it fine.
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Wed 22nd Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Central Gully | ||||||
18 | ★ Centennial direct finish | 9m | Average | |||
Sometimes it feels like ground hog day, but it was good to see Louise tackle this on lead
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12 | ★ Chutney | 13m | Average | |||
Wed 22nd Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face The Ramparts | ||||||
19 | ★ Red-Belly Black Flake | 25m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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14 | ★ Terminally in Traction | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Easy Meat direct start | 18m, 6 | |||||
A half baked attempt, it’s very friable, just do the original
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23 | ★★ Taipan Wall | 25m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Nice but suffered from being climbed on when wet a couple of days ago.
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21 | ★ Eastern Brown | 25m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Nice moves, but would be a bit of a scary onsight
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Mon 20th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Big Banana Buttress & The Extremes | ||||||
21 | ★★ No Support for the Monarchy | 15m, 5 | ||||
The bolts were out, drill dust everywhere, I was meant to be evaluating new bolt positions but it was too crozzly to be sure.
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Mon 20th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face The Ramparts | ||||||
19 | ★ Red-Belly Black Flake | 25m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, end of day, Dave still sandbags everyone claiming it’s a 17…
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14 | ★ Terminally in Traction | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, a little mossy on the upper part
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Mon 20th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Central Gully | ||||||
12 | ★ Chutney | 13m | Average | |||
Rpt no 50 or so
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18 | ★ Centennial direct finish | 9m | Average | |||
The crag warm up now with bolts
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Mon 20th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Turkey Walls | ||||||
19 | ★ Killer’eska | 17m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Was pressured into leading it….
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21 | ★★ Profanity | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt. A little greasy today, but not enough rain to make it dirty
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Fri 17th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Central Gully | ||||||
18 | ★ Centennial direct finish | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, to try out the new ring bolts. A consumer classic now!
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18 | ★ Centennial direct finish | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, to try out the new ring bolts. A consumer classic now!
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Fri 17th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Stopper Walls | ||||||
19 | ★ Clear and present danger | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. A bit dirty today but the holds are now all solid it seems
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24 | ★ Speak Easy | 6m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
MF answer to a campus board. A little bit of rope assistance on the crux move, but quite happy with my crimping today
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21 | ★ Ghetto Blaster | 7m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, pumpy and exposed for such a short route
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23 | ★★★ Weena | 30m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One brief foot misstep, felt pretty good otherwise. The usual brown tree snake just below anchors. It didn’t move.
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Thu 16th Jun 2022 - Tomaree Head | ||||||
Black Slab | ||||||
20 | ★★ Avenger | 45m | ★ Good | |||
Nice route with interesting contortions on the flakes
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23 | ★★ Gunbarrel Highway | 45m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
A quick lap, in borrowed shoes. Pretty thin
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Tue 14th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Turkey Walls | ||||||
19 | ★★ Bereska | 18m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The pinch pillar below the roof has partially disappeared but it doesn’t affect the grade
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19 | ★ Killer’eska | 17m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
A different start that’s more crimpy, the crux is still on Bereska which is quite sandbagged at 19
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21 | ★★ Profanity | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The most comfortable I’ve felt on this
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Tue 14th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Central Gully | ||||||
18 | ★ Centennial direct finish | 9m | Average | |||
Now all on ring bolts
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26 | ★ Jacob's Ladder | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
I’m still keen on a right hand start. Super bouldery funky moves I can barely do, and the start feels harder than 26
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Mon 13th Jun 2022 - Treatment Plant | ||||||
Plant 1, The Sunny Side | ||||||
17 | ★ Poopsicle | 7m | ★ Good | |||
16 | Ben and Jewies Upper Decker | 7m | ||||
12 | Dysentry | 9m | Crap | |||
18 | ★ Portaloo | 10m | Average | |||
19 | Thunder Box | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Options limited today given the swell and seepage
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18 | ★★ Grunt | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
21 | ★ Pucker Up | 8m | ★ Good | |||
20 | Shove | 9m | Average | |||
24 | ★★ Lock It In | 9m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The climb briefly dried, then the tide started coming back in and it got drenched again
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Sat 11th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Gate Crag Central Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★★ Titania | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Two laps, distracted by trying to find emergency dentist
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Sat 11th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Gate Crag Walls of 2000 | ||||||
21 | ★ Dumb Struck | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Was just warming up when my temporary crown dislodged. Toothache and climbing don’t mix
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19 | ★ Plain Dumb | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
16 | ★ Spider Lair | 10m | Average | |||
Wed 8th Jun 2022 - Berowra | ||||||
Bullet Hole Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Looks Poxable | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
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18 | ★★ Mental Fatigue | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, the nicest route I did all day.
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Wed 8th Jun 2022 - Berowra | ||||||
Kid Free Area | ||||||
18 | ★ Angry Ants | 12m, 4 | Don't Bother | |||
Dirty discontinuous climbing, even the arete at the top didn’t salvage it
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Wed 8th Jun 2022 - Berowra | ||||||
Ladder of Gloom Area | ||||||
15 | ★ Avoidance Arete | 8m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Better than it looked and feels quite long with the traversing. Interesting engineering at the start…
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Wed 8th Jun 2022 - Berowra | ||||||
Pimple Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★ Petroglyph | 8m, 2 | Average | |||
15 | ★ Taylor Made | 6m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
3 laps trying to show my belayer in slow motion how to be dynamic and use her feet, soloed to clean
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Wed 8th Jun 2022 - Berowra | ||||||
Glamorpus Area | ||||||
16 | ★ Prowl 'n Prejudice | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt, easy but would get a V grade ( probably said the same last time I did it)
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18 | ★ Extended Prejudice Remix | 10m, 3 | Don't Bother | |||
Only advantage is it makes it easier to clean
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17 | ★ Un Hommage du Craster | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
This is a retrobolting of JFH surely. Ok.
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Mon 6th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face The Ramparts | ||||||
19 19 R | ★★ Garbage Blaster | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★ Waynes Route | 25m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
10 | ★ Vascolomys Wambach | 20m | ★ Good | |||
12 | ★ Buzzed Out | 28m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
15 | Adrenaline Wall | 25m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
23 | ★★ Taipan Wall | 25m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
A bit tired and sore skin and shoulder after 2 days at Nowra, but cleaning the house can only take up so much time. Fell off a few things due to not concentrating on sequence. Pretty cold and windy.
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