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Stopper Walls

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Description

This wall is on the side and above the big banana buttress.

Access issues inherited from Monkey Face

Access to the crag is an easy 10min walk. The lower road, Bangalow Rd, has reopened in 2023 after several years of closure. However the climbers access track is closed after fires in late 2023. Therefore only access is from top again ( see paragraph below about access via Monkeyface Rd) . Park at Bangalow Campground/ day use area and walk up the hill, meeting the routes of So and Feeling the Pinch at Lower Crag. Go left from here to Turkey Walls, Big Banana Buttress and Smear Slabs. go right to access middle crag.

Alternatively the crag can be accessed from above via Monkeyface Rd. From the first top car park head south around large boulders before descending steeply to the top of Big Banana. Go climbers left to descend Central Gully. Rain in 2023 has dislodged several large blocks at the base of the gully and there may be a rickety wooden ladder. Fire has destroyed a lot of ground vegetation increasing rock fall and erosion risk, so be careful.

The walkway wooden retainers and steps have been burnt, although the track is still negotiable. Check the NPWS website for closures as contractors will be working in the area and it will be closed at times during 2024.

In case of emergency, reception is poor at the base of the cliff, but reliable on top of big banana buttress.

Approach

From the big banana buttress, continue along the cliff for 50m, then scramble up to a higher terrace, passing back along a ledge at the base of the smear slabs to the edge of the big banana buttress.

Ethic inherited from Monkey Face

Trad and mixed routes abound here with the occasional sport route. A number of routes are readily accessed to set up top ropes. As an older crag, the grades may feel quite stiff, so take this into account. The crag is within a national park, so no dogs, no smoking and use the toilets if you need to go.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb the left arete of the first pitch of 'Stopper' past 2 bolts to belay in the stopper cave at UB belay.

FA: John Wilde, 1992

From the start of 'Stopper' traverse diagonally left to the arete then up.

1 11
2 13
  1. From the terrace on the right of Big Banana Buttress, climb the corner and large flake to a ledge with a double bolt and chain abseil point.

  2. Continue up the off-width corner, stepping left to belay.

FA: 2: David Pickles & David Gray, 1980

FA: 1: Wayne Hughes, David Gray, Brian Davidson & Owen Bull, 1980

1 13
2 13

Alternate 1st pitch of Stopper.

  1. Climb the corner direct (staying left of the flake).

  2. Second pitch of Stopper.

FA: David Gray, Rob Gregory & Steve Farington, 1982

Boulder the wall 3m right of the first pitch of Stopper, traversing left to the Stopper chain.

FA: David Gray, 1985

Step right from the belay ledge at the top of Stoppers first pitch, then follow bolts up a fragile wall to DRBs

Set: Vanessa Wills

FA: David Gray & Vanessa Wills, 2013

Straight up the middle of the left wall of the last pitch of Stopper

FA: Paul Reviere & John Wilde, 1989

Climb the upper left wall of Stopper, diagonally left, passing 3 ring bolts, to finish near the arête.

FA: David Gray, Bruce Donaldson, Paul Smith & Chris Crane, 1983

The buldging wall and seam right of Stopper, past 2 FHs to DRB. Small nuts and RPs and cams. A true test piece of trad climing which defied strong lead attempts for 4 years until it went free. Originally had only 1 BR until repeated falls onto a #2 nut destroyed the placement

FA: 16M2 : David Gray & Rob Stow, 1983

FFA: John Wilde, 1987

Climb the wall right of Weena past 5 ring bolts.

FA: John Wilde, 1987

Start from terrace above squeeze chimney at flake. Slightly overhung climbing through roof let to finish left at interesting mantle and DUBB on ledge. Rock improves after first 2 metres.

Closed pro.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Tim Haasnoot

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780975129319

An area that has steep sport routes, trad cracks, deep-water-soling, sea cliff climbing and bouldering all within a short drive to some beautiful beaches and national parks is surely worth a look in. The Newcastle and Hunter Rock Climbing guide by Tim Haasnoot is feature packed and includes all the areas worth a day trip from Newcastle. This guide features over 950 routes, 170 boulder problems and 100 DWS with full topo maps and navigation info.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Mon 15 May
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