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Smear Slabs

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Description

The moderate angled slab from the terrace above Five Fingers and Space Ape, provides friendly and generally well protected climbing. Largely rebolted 2021 with SS ring bolts from SRC rebolting fund.

Access issues inherited from Monkey Face

Access to the crag is an easy 10min walk. The lower road, Bangalow Rd, has reopened in 2023 after several years of closure. However the climbers access track is closed after fires in late 2023. Therefore only access is from top again ( see paragraph below about access via Monkeyface Rd) . Park at Bangalow Campground/ day use area and walk up the hill, meeting the routes of So and Feeling the Pinch at Lower Crag. Go left from here to Turkey Walls, Big Banana Buttress and Smear Slabs. go right to access middle crag.

Alternatively the crag can be accessed from above via Monkeyface Rd. From the first top car park head south around large boulders before descending steeply to the top of Big Banana. Go climbers left to descend Central Gully. Rain in 2023 has dislodged several large blocks at the base of the gully and there may be a rickety wooden ladder. Fire has destroyed a lot of ground vegetation increasing rock fall and erosion risk, so be careful.

The walkway wooden retainers and steps have been burnt, although the track is still negotiable. Check the NPWS website for closures as contractors will be working in the area and it will be closed at times during 2024.

In case of emergency, reception is poor at the base of the cliff, but reliable on top of big banana buttress.

Approach

50m to the right of the big banana buttress you can scramble up to a higher terrace coming in from the right. The ledge is narrow. Belay bolts needing bolt plates exist at the base of ABTF/HITB/ CF and DUBB at the base of Jear to delirium.

Descent notes

DBB exist above without a lead, smear to oblivion, providence, Electric Turkey and a Bridge too far. The ledge the left hand routes finish on are on can be accessed with care by walking towards Stopper then back to upper ledge if top roping is preferred.

Ethic inherited from Monkey Face

Trad and mixed routes abound here with the occasional sport route. A number of routes are readily accessed to set up top ropes. As an older crag, the grades may feel quite stiff, so take this into account. The crag is within a national park, so no dogs, no smoking and use the toilets if you need to go.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

The left to right girdle of the slabs, finishing up Electric Turkey

FA: David Gray & Dan Rogers, 1985

A short solo at the holes left of the cave at the left edge of the slabs.

FA: Darrin Gray, 1983

Slab at right end of scoop to ledge, sling tree on ledge and go to anchors above WAL. Originally 1 bolt and an empty hole.

FA: Paul Smith & Bruce Donaldson, 1983

"requires a long neck" climb the slab between Live 'n' Learn and Without a Lead. Need bolt plates.

FA: David Gray & Dan Rogers, 1983

Start just left of DUBB on ledge. Up past 4 RBs and a flake to DBB.

FFA: Dave Gray, Dan Rogers, Darrin Gray & Martin Cook, 1983

FA: 1983

The slab with 3 ring bolts. Holds diminishing and grade rising over time Start: At the DUBB on ledge. Go right to chain anchors.

FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1984

The water worn runnel past 3 bolts, being careful to the first. Exit left to Ring and chain belay

FFA: Dave Gray, John Wilde, Robert Stow, Dan Rogers & Jenny Anderson, 1983

A blank slab 2m right of Smear to Oblivion, ring bolts to DRBB

FA: John Wilde & Darrin Gray, 1985

Start left of the blunt arete trending right past bolts to a DBB.

FA: Dave Gray, Darrin Gray, James Cowmeadow & Brett Arnold, 1984

The scoop between Electric Turkey and Hang In There Baby. Bridging makes the route grade 17, the grade comes from it being a face climb. SS glue in Bolts ( brackets needed) and Stainless steel chain and shackle anchor date from 2004

FA: Dave Gray & Darrin Gray, 1988

The hand crack in the corner / groove bounding the right hand edge of the Smear Slabs. Head left to the anchor on ABTF.

FA: David Gray & Alan Martin, 1980

Climb the pocketed wall past 2 bolts then carefully to a shattered flake and final bolt to DRBB. An older abseil chain still exists on top of block

FA: James Cowmeadow, 1980

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Tim Haasnoot

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780975129319

An area that has steep sport routes, trad cracks, deep-water-soling, sea cliff climbing and bouldering all within a short drive to some beautiful beaches and national parks is surely worth a look in. The Newcastle and Hunter Rock Climbing guide by Tim Haasnoot is feature packed and includes all the areas worth a day trip from Newcastle. This guide features over 950 routes, 170 boulder problems and 100 DWS with full topo maps and navigation info.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Sat 29 Apr
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