Routes as trad in Portugal

Material: - 1 friend (small) - 1 friend (medium) - 2 micro-nuts (2,3)

The anchor point could be built at the metal piece that is at the route top.

Variante ultimo largo

The last pitch doesn't have any kind of protection or place to put any gear.

1. 6a

2. 5+

1. 5+

2. 6a

3. 5+

4. 6a+(A1)/5+

Requires 2x60m ropes, 3 nuts, and 3 friends. Info at this blog.

1. The climb begins on a slab beneath a small corner. There's a block at the top that appears loose but is secure. After reaching the top, we proceed straight to pass a slight edge. At the base, we can protect ourselves and move up to the upper section where there's a bolt. Continuing on the slab, we veer slightly to the right towards the corner at the base of a large block. Here, we reinforce the belay using a friend in the nearby crack.

2. We traverse around the right side of the block and then ascend some steps that lead to the friction slab above (a point of interest on the route). We aim for the crack that cuts from right to left and find the belay anchors on the left side.

Material:

• 60-meter ropes
• Set of friends
• Set of nuts
• 8 quickdraws
• Slings for extensions

Topo by Montanha e Escalada(Portuguese)

1 - The first pitch is an equipped slab.

The first pitch starts at the first belay of the "Via Tomatinhos" and follows to the right of it. It is equipped for the more challenging sections right after the belay, but afterwards, small and medium-sized friends are needed until reaching the next belay.

50m double ropes minimum

Friend set until #4. Nuts set. 10 quickdraw + gear extensions. Gear to sling some bushes might be useful.

Has bolts in some sections that can't be protected.

Can (and should) be rappeled.

Doesn't have any bolts

50m double ropes minimum

Friends + nuts set. 10 quickdraws + extenders

Can not be rappeled

The recommended gear for this route includes nuts and medium-sized friends devices. The top of the route is equipped with fixed anchors, ensuring a secure belay and descent.

"Variante Borboletas" is a variant of the climbing route "Borboletas" with a shorter length of 8 meters. To tackle this variant, climbers will need nuts and medium-sized friends devices to protect themselves during the ascent. The route is equipped with top anchors, providing a secure anchor point.

Climbers will require the same gear as "Borboletas", including one bolt at the challenging section. This route is equipped with a top anchor, providing a secure anchor point for climbers. Ensure you have the necessary gear to safely navigate the route.

Climbers will need medium-sized friends devices for protection during the ascent. The route is equipped with top anchors, providing a secure anchor point for belaying and ensuring a safe descent.