★★ Maleboch 20 PROT:R

Walk past the Moon Area, go through the boulder squeeze, past the start of RAZORS EDGE until the face steps back. Up and left are two big open books. The smaller left hand one is BIG CORNER. The massive right hand one is MALEBOCH. Scramble up and diagonally left for a few ropelengths, as per BIG CORNER, to get to a squeeze-through flake. BIG corner heads up left from here, while MALEBOCH heads right.

1. 60m 15 Diagonally left across the rightward-sloping ramp, into the corner. Follow the corner up right to some trees. Continue past the next steep section to belay in the forest below the main corner/gulley.

2. 50m 18R Climb the corner/gulley passing some offwidth sections. Above the last offwidth move right around the overhang and belay just above this.

3. 30m 14 Climb the corner to belay below the next obvious offwidth section.

4. 45m 20R Climb the offwidth to the roof. Step right around the roof to the next bulge. Pull through the bulge, past two bolts to a small ledge. Continue straight up the offwidth above to a tree belay (no pro) or walk left to end of narrow ledge and ascend a face to the tree.

5. 30m 14 Continue up the gulley. Veer left behind the massive block and chimney up past a peg to the top (as for BIG CORNER).

Notes:

1. The bolts and pitons are dodgy and the route is spicy.

2. Use the nearby rap route (described elsewhere) to link this route up.