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Morgans Bay Guide

  TRAD 100%

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Marc dM Hugo Michelle Lopes Michael Simpson Vince Egan

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Morgans Bay 91 routes in Crag

1 2 3 4
1 1st Headland 2 2nd & 3rd Headland 3 4th Headland 4 5th Headland
Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -32.718476, 28.326097

summary

Seaside Trad Climbing on Dolerite rock.

description

For more information, please check the following:

http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/

http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Eastern_Cape

https://epmcsa.org.za/

access issues

This is district council land under the control of Nature Conservation. Unrestricted access.

ethic

The bolts on the sport lines are old & dangerous. The semi-tropical sea environment at Morgans is ultra harsh on fixed stainless steel hardware. Skip these sport lines. Don't visit Morgans to climb sport. Morgans is essentially a trad area.

1.1. 1st Headland 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -32.713042, 28.336285

1.1.1. Bay Watch 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.2. Angels Wall 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ★ Where Angels Fear to Tread 18 Trad
2 Frigidaire Chimney 11 Trad

1.1.3. Prometheus 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Prometheus 17 Trad 10m

1.1.4. Lust or Love 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.5. California Dreaming 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Huff and Puff 14 Trad
2 The Shark Fin 19 Trad
3 ★★ California Dreaming 15 Trad
4 Penny Lane 12 Trad
5 Nowhere Man 15 Trad
6 Ian 11 Trad

1.1.6. Promised Land 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.7. MI5 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.8. Cassinga 0 routes in Cliff

1.2. 2nd & 3rd Headland 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -32.714400, 28.333582

1.2.1. Afghanistan 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.2. Kindergarten 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.3. Memorial Slab 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.4. Lands End 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ★ Keep the Faith

FA: Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown, 2016

18 Trad
2 So Long Mary Ann

FA: Derek Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt, 2001

14 Trad
3 ★ Fear of God

FA: Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown, 2016

17 Trad
4 ★ My Eye on You

FA: Craig Bester & Allen Luck, 2001

14 Trad

1.2.5. The Platform 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ★★ Feels so Good

FA: Gavin Raubenheimer & Gavin Peckham, 2001

15 Trad
2 ★★ Once in a Lifetime

FA: Gavin Raubenheimer & Gavin Peckham, 2001

17 Trad

1.2.6. Catfish Cove 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.7. Castaways 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.8. Storm Bringer 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.9. Bionic Man 0 routes in Cliff

1.3. 4th Headland 38 routes in Crag

2
2 Ticket to Ride
Summary:

Lat / Long: -32.715613, 28.331452

1.3.1. Rock Rabbit Wall 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Roger Rabbit 13 Trad
2 ★ Remember When 14 Trad

1.3.2. Ticket to Ride 19 routes in Cliff

9 11
9 'Natal' Face 11 Abattoir Pillar
Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -32.715424, 28.332012

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pick Pocket 11 Trad
2 ★ Paperback Writer 14 Trad
3 ★ Day Tripper 15 Trad
4 ★ Genesis 13 Trad
5 ★★ Ticket to Ride 17 Trad
6 The Feeling is Tight 18 Trad
7 ★★ On the Edge 19 Trad
8 ★★ Purple Rain 19 Trad
10 ★★ Radio Free Moscow 18 Trad
1.3.2.1. 'Natal' Face 5 routes in Area
Summary:

Lat / Long: -32.715325, 28.332026

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Footsie 21 Trad
2 ★ Catch 22 18 Trad
3 ★★ Natal 20 Trad
4 ★ Acne 12 Trad
5 Lost Digit 16 Trad
1.3.2.2. Abattoir Pillar 5 routes in Area
Summary:

Lat / Long: -32.715593, 28.332013

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Unknown 22 Trad
2 The Way, the Truth, the Life 19 Trad
3 Our Lady of the Abattoir 17 Trad
4 Our Lady Direct 16 Trad
5 Lovingly Fondled 17 Trad

1.3.3. Blue Jay Buttress 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kortbroek 15 Trad
2 ★ Blackbird 15 Trad
3 ★ Blue Jay 12 Trad
4 John Brown 18 Trad
5 ★ G - String 18 Trad
6 ★ Five o' Clock Shark 17 Trad

1.3.4. House of Cards 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 ★★ Airs Above the Ground 19 Trad
3 ★ Tru Grit 19 Trad
4 ★★ Life and Life to the Full 26 Trad
5 ★★ Blockhead 16 Trad
1.3.4.1. The Annex 5 routes in Sector
Summary:

description

the square of rock closest to the car park.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ★ Fear no Evil 19 Trad
2 Rabbit Killer 20 Trad
3 ★★ One Step from Earth / Jump Start 16 A0 Trad
4 Short and Sweet 14 Trad
5 Earache 15 Trad

1.3.5. Tombstone Gulch 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Snark 13 Trad
2 Boojum 15 Trad

1.3.6. Graveyard 0 routes in Cliff

1.3.7. Pineapple Ridge 0 routes in Cliff

1.3.8. Buccaneer’s Cove 0 routes in Cliff

1.4. 5th Headland 38 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -32.717192, 28.328564

1.4.1. Diffusion 0 routes in Cliff

1.4.2. Eager Beaver 0 routes in Cliff

1.4.3. Linear Ledge 19 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Easy Rider 13 Trad
2 ★ Old Fashioned Book 16 Trad
3 ★ Worm on a Hook 20 Trad
4 ★ Alien Way 19 Trad
5 ★ Drunk in a Midnight Choir 22 Trad
6 ★ Burning Bush 15 Trad
7 ★★ Linear Accelerator 16 Trad 10m
8 ★★ Banana Boy 22 Trad
9 ★ All My Sins Remembered 20 Trad
10 ★ No Pain, No Strain, No Brain 20 Trad 20m
11 ★ Friendly Thief 19 Trad
12 ★★ Bird on the Wire 19 Trad
13 ★★ Teenage Punks 24 Trad
14 ★★ Crocodile Rock 18 Trad
15 Razor's Edge 17 Trad
16 Brave, Brave Mouse 15 Trad 2
17 Fiddler's Green 16 Trad 2
18 On the Loose Again 15 Trad
19 ★ Heels of a Soft Prayer Whispered 17 Trad

1.4.4. Strip Tease 0 routes in Cliff

1.4.5. Sweet Surrender 0 routes in Cliff

1.4.6. Dunkirk 0 routes in Cliff

1.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area 18 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ★ Powder Finger 19 Trad
2 ★★ Yellow Joker/Jester 24 Trad
3 ★ Watching the Ocean 19 Trad 23m
4 ★★ The Carnival is Over 18 Trad
5 ★★ Flycatcher 18 Trad 25m
6 ★ The Needle and the Damage Done 19 Trad
7 Superheroes 21 Trad
8 No Details 21 Trad
9 ★ Mine Shaft 15 Trad
10 Gannet's View 13 Trad 2
11 Sweet Surrender 16 Trad
12 ★ Sinus 17 Trad
13 Old Man 13 Trad
14 Moon Shadow 16 Trad
15 ★★ One White Duck on Your Wall = 100 = Nothing at All 21 Trad
16 Haze on the Skyline 18 Trad
17 The Spire 17 Trad
18 Manual Manipulation 19 Trad

1.4.8. Carnival is Over 0 routes in Cliff

1.4.9. Strandlooper Buttress 0 routes in Cliff

1.4.10. Needle Wall 0 routes in Cliff

1.4.11. Whale Bone 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ★ Sea Breeze

FA: Gavin Raubenheimer & Gavin Peckham, 2002

18 Trad

1.4.12. Khoekoen Ledge 0 routes in Cliff

1.4.13. The Tusk 0 routes in Cliff

1.4.14. Bay of Plenty 0 routes in Cliff

1.4.15. Slippery When Wet 0 routes in Cliff

1.4.16. Made to Fit 0 routes in Cliff

1.4.17. Pivotal Motion 0 routes in Cliff

1.4.18. Booze Cruise 0 routes in Cliff

1.4.19. Just a Breeze 0 routes in Cliff

1.4.20. Smooth Operator 0 routes in Cliff

1.4.21. Outlaw Crag 0 routes in Cliff

1.4.22. Black Rock 0 routes in Cliff

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
11 Frigidaire Chimney Trad 1.1.2. Angels Wall
Ian Trad 1.1.5. California Dreaming
Pick Pocket Trad 1.3.2. Ticket to Ride
12 Penny Lane Trad 1.1.5. California Dreaming
★ Acne Trad 1.3.2.1. 'Natal' Face
★ Blue Jay Trad 1.3.3. Blue Jay Buttress
13 Roger Rabbit Trad 1.3.1. Rock Rabbit Wall
★ Genesis Trad 1.3.2. Ticket to Ride
Snark Trad 1.3.5. Tombstone Gulch
Easy Rider Trad 1.4.3. Linear Ledge
Gannet's View Trad 2 1.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
Old Man Trad 1.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
14 Huff and Puff Trad 1.1.5. California Dreaming
★ My Eye on You Trad 1.2.4. Lands End
So Long Mary Ann Trad 1.2.4. Lands End
★ Remember When Trad 1.3.1. Rock Rabbit Wall
★ Paperback Writer Trad 1.3.2. Ticket to Ride
Short and Sweet Trad 1.3.4.1. The Annex
15 ★★ California Dreaming Trad 1.1.5. California Dreaming
Nowhere Man Trad 1.1.5. California Dreaming
★★ Feels so Good Trad 1.2.5. The Platform
★ Day Tripper Trad 1.3.2. Ticket to Ride
★ Blackbird Trad 1.3.3. Blue Jay Buttress
Kortbroek Trad 1.3.3. Blue Jay Buttress
Earache Trad 1.3.4.1. The Annex
Boojum Trad 1.3.5. Tombstone Gulch
Brave, Brave Mouse Trad 2 1.4.3. Linear Ledge
★ Burning Bush Trad 1.4.3. Linear Ledge
On the Loose Again Trad 1.4.3. Linear Ledge
★ Mine Shaft Trad 1.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
16 Lost Digit Trad 1.3.2.1. 'Natal' Face
Our Lady Direct Trad 1.3.2.2. Abattoir Pillar
★★ Blockhead Trad 1.3.4. House of Cards
Fiddler's Green Trad 2 1.4.3. Linear Ledge
★★ Linear Accelerator Trad 10m 1.4.3. Linear Ledge
★ Old Fashioned Book Trad 1.4.3. Linear Ledge
Moon Shadow Trad 1.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
Sweet Surrender Trad 1.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
16 A0 ★★ One Step from Earth Trad 1.3.4.1. The Annex
17 Prometheus Trad 10m 1.1.3. Prometheus
★ Fear of God Trad 1.2.4. Lands End
★★ Once in a Lifetime Trad 1.2.5. The Platform
★★ Ticket to Ride Trad 1.3.2. Ticket to Ride
Lovingly Fondled Trad 1.3.2.2. Abattoir Pillar
Our Lady of the Abattoir Trad 1.3.2.2. Abattoir Pillar
★ Five o' Clock Shark Trad 1.3.3. Blue Jay Buttress
★ Heels of a Soft Prayer Whispered Trad 1.4.3. Linear Ledge
Razor's Edge Trad 1.4.3. Linear Ledge
★ Sinus Trad 1.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
The Spire Trad 1.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
18 ★ Where Angels Fear to Tread Trad 1.1.2. Angels Wall
★ Keep the Faith Trad 1.2.4. Lands End
★★ Radio Free Moscow Trad 1.3.2. Ticket to Ride
The Feeling is Tight Trad 1.3.2. Ticket to Ride
★ Catch 22 Trad 1.3.2.1. 'Natal' Face
★ G - String Trad 1.3.3. Blue Jay Buttress
John Brown Trad 1.3.3. Blue Jay Buttress
★★ Crocodile Rock Trad 1.4.3. Linear Ledge
★★ Flycatcher Trad 25m 1.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
Haze on the Skyline Trad 1.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
★★ The Carnival is Over Trad 1.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
★ Sea Breeze Trad 1.4.11. Whale Bone
19 The Shark Fin Trad 1.1.5. California Dreaming
★★ On the Edge Trad 1.3.2. Ticket to Ride
★★ Purple Rain Trad 1.3.2. Ticket to Ride
The Way, the Truth, the Life Trad 1.3.2.2. Abattoir Pillar
★★ Airs Above the Ground Trad 1.3.4. House of Cards
★ Tru Grit Trad 1.3.4. House of Cards
★ Fear no Evil Trad 1.3.4.1. The Annex
★ Alien Way Trad 1.4.3. Linear Ledge
★★ Bird on the Wire Trad 1.4.3. Linear Ledge
★ Friendly Thief Trad 1.4.3. Linear Ledge
Manual Manipulation Trad 1.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
★ Powder Finger Trad 1.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
★ The Needle and the Damage Done Trad 1.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
★ Watching the Ocean Trad 23m 1.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
20 ★★ Natal Trad 1.3.2.1. 'Natal' Face
Rabbit Killer Trad 1.3.4.1. The Annex
★ All My Sins Remembered Trad 1.4.3. Linear Ledge
★ No Pain, No Strain, No Brain Trad 20m 1.4.3. Linear Ledge
★ Worm on a Hook Trad 1.4.3. Linear Ledge
21 Footsie Trad 1.3.2.1. 'Natal' Face
No Details Trad 1.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
★★ One White Duck on Your Wall = 100 = Nothing at All Trad 1.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
Superheroes Trad 1.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
22 Unknown Trad 1.3.2.2. Abattoir Pillar
★★ Banana Boy Trad 1.4.3. Linear Ledge
★ Drunk in a Midnight Choir Trad 1.4.3. Linear Ledge
24 ★★ Teenage Punks Trad 1.4.3. Linear Ledge
★★ Yellow Joker/Jester Trad 1.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
26 ★★ Life and Life to the Full Trad 1.3.4. House of Cards
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