Africa Guide

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

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S

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Seasonality

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -0.413674, 18.154870

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -22.057222, 23.939583

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: -24.616769, 25.902326

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -20.893793, 25.818813

description

"But after hours of rumbling, an "island" appeared out of nowhere, Kubu Island. Huge baobab trees provide shade here. Surreal to find an oasis in the alien environment. At the edge of the island there were rocks up to 7m high, so we unpacked our climbing shoes and did gymnastics on the blocks. A quirky place for bouldering. You feel small on small stones, which creates an absurd feeling when climbing." (report German climbing expedition, see magazin 04/2022, page 34)

approach

(-20.893483, 25.817392)

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Ice climbing

Lat / Long: -29.582358, 28.247497

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -29.348213, 27.479744

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -29.364164, 27.536786

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -29.314361, 27.547453

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -29.345091, 27.692812

summary

Thaba Qiloane is an iconic sand stone tower located just a few kilometers past the Thaba Bosiu Cultural Center. After passing the cultural center, keep an eye out to the right and you can't miss it.

description

A short sand stone tower that is said to be the inspiration for the shape of the traditional Basotho hats that can be found all over Lesotho. The hats are handwoven by locals and sold as traditional attire or as a souvenir.

access issues

Parking is available in the village at the base of the mountain, however it would be extremely disrespectful to not speak with anyone from the village. They may charge a few for parking. Paying the fee will ensure that the locals look after your rig. Basotho are very welcoming people, using the land is a privilege. Be respectful.

approach

The approach is short 10-15 minutes to the base and 20' with a bit of bush whacking will allow you to circumnavigate the mountain.

where to stay

Botleng Guesthouse

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -29.425491, 27.694555

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -29.468335, 27.474544

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -29.620654, 27.569494

summary

The large cliff a short walk away from the end of the tar road

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -29.596861, 27.803216

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -29.806898, 27.429315

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -29.363168, 28.538079

access issues

Park near the Katse airstrip, then stroll down to the river bed.

where to stay

Katse Lodge in the Katse Village.

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -22.924461, 16.243284

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -22.571494, 17.067945

summary

Future Crag

access issues

Not Granted Yet.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -22.777645, 17.316038

summary

Surrounded by African game.

description

Less than an hour from Windhoek. A tiny crag with short, but sustained and technical routes. Panoramic views over the African Savanna.

access issues

This crag is on a private game reserve. Climbers have access at a price of N$60 (Euro 4) per day. Lodging is available at reception. Exclusive camping can be arranged with local climbing outfit Urban Friction. Call beforehand.

approach

5' walk from parking area. Parking area strictly accessible with permission from reception.

where to stay

Auas Safari Lodge - Journeys Namibia (Lodging) Urban Friction (Camping) +264813312916 ufriction@gmail.com

ethic

No climbing when Rock Kestrels are breeding (info available from Urban Friction). Bolting with written permission only. No bolting of trad lines.

history

Richard Ford started developing routes here in 2017 whilst working at the Lodge. More prospective lines are still up for grabs.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -22.088024, 17.362989

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -21.662279, 15.671463

where to stay

Monika & Herbert Lauenroth Farm Etusis No 75 Postfach 5 KARIBIB/Namibia

Tel.: +264 (0) 64 550826 Fax: +264 (0) 64 684056 etusis@namibnet.com www.etusis.com

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -22.319256, 15.479048

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: -21.830597, 15.182298

summary

Sport, boulder and trad climbing on granite in a desert setting.

description

Infos can be found here: http://www.spitzkoppe.eu or contact Urban Friction Namibia for guided excursions

approach

Anywhere from 10mins to 1hr, depending on where you climb.

where to stay

Camping can be found around the base of the mountain. It is a community-run endeavour. Please respect the rules.

There is now a new camp next to the reserve.

Spitzkoppe Tented Camp and Campsites https://spitzkoppe-tented-camp.business.site/?utm_source=gmb&utm_medium=referral#summary Check the site for prices.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -22.520112, 15.335884

summary

In the bed of the (usually dry) Swakop river lies a vast collection of cliffs. A few have routes on them. This part of the Swakop river runs through the Moon Valley which is a fascinating landscape.

description

Less than an hour from Swakopmund is a part of the Swakop river which has a vast collection of cliffs on either side of it. Some of these have routes on them, the main section being Brauhaus-wand.

The rock is composed of gneiss, with areas of granite, feldspar, quartzite and dolerite. The rock is solid, but some is weathered at the surface and new routes may require cleaning of loose rubble. A helmet is recommended.

Climbing early in the day is recommended because of the heat.

access issues

The original developers request that chalk is not to be used.
The south of the river is in the Namib-Naukluft National Park. The North is in the Dorob. This does not appear to present any problems, but climbers are urged to look after the area.

approach

A 4x4 is very much recommended as the river bed has sand in many places. The climbing is about 57km from Swakopmund.

See map below.

From Swakopmund drive about 40km towards Windhoek on the B2. Turn right into the D1991. Follow this for about 18km. After passing the first buildings on your left you more or less enter the river bed. There is a road on your left directly after a ridge of rock. This leads to a farm and is signposted as such. Do not turn here. After about 50m there is another road to the left. Take this road. (If you reach Goanikontes Oasis proper, you have gone too far.) Follow this up the river bed for a little less than 5km. The main wall (Bruahaus-wand) will become apparent on your left.

The alternate approach, shown on the map below, is to drive to the Goanikontes Oasis. Turn right into a jeep track in the river bed just after the entrance to the Oasis. It is between 4 and 5 km to the climbs. Keep to the left of the main river bed.

where to stay

There are numerous places to stay in Swakopmund. Alternatively the river bed itself has many possible free camp sites (no facilities). Please remove all traces and use present fire pits if possible. Bring your own wood.

The Goanikontes Oasis is a splendid place to stay with camping, huts and a restaurant. Lots of trees and shade to escape the midday heat.

ethic

Please limit use of chalk if needed at all.

history

The original development took place between 2010-12 by Volker Muller, Hasso Gantze and co (hence many of the names are German).

where to stay

Ranch Koiimasis Wulff & Anke Izko P.O.Box 14 Helmeringhausen Namibia

Booking: Tel.: +264 (0)63 683052 Fax.: +264 (0)63 683052 koiimasis@yahoo.com www.namibia-farm-lodge.com (Farm Koiimasis)

history

developped since 2001

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -28.354004, 17.476478

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -22.841231, 15.381216

access issues

Permit required

approach

North-east of the Naukluft park

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -24.502846, 15.794304

description

Brückenturm, the only climbing feature, is inside the 50m deep Sesriem Canyon.

access issues

Permit required

where to stay

Taleni Africa camping

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -26.653899, 16.230238

where to stay

Klein-Aus Vista / Gondwana Sperrgebiet Rand Park Postfach 25, 9000 Aus/ Namibia Tel +264 (0)63 258021 /116 Fax +264 (0)63 258021 ausvista@namibhorses.com reservations@namibhorses.com

history

development since 2008

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -3.257738, 24.691050

description

South Africa is simply a top world climbing destination.

From already world-renown Bouldering area Rocklands or Sport Mecca 'Waterval Boven', to epic trad Big Walling at Blouberg or Yellowwood Amphitheatre, passing through alpine adventures in the Drakensberg most styles are covered one way or the other, except maybe ice-climbing...

but that is only because of the generous climate, which ensures year-round outdoor climbing in most crags !

Add to that the comfort of huge areas close enough from town for a after-work pitch from Capetown... Table Mountain, or the huge potential for any adventurer to bush whack and find new unexplored cliffs hidden in remote areas... you will definitely find your little corner of paradise.

Finally the MCSA is the national association associated to UIAA that caters for mountaineering in general, and climbing in particular. They are fundamental to negociate and maintain access to lots of crags, since few are on public land in the country. Join them https://mcsa.org.za/.

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -23.773433, 29.146037

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -26.268149, 25.519619

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: -26.016749, 28.127397

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: -25.744685, 30.138885

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -28.969955, 30.840414

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: -1.140229, 27.032039

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -32.667036, 20.963223

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -32.087102, 26.043258

summary

http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za//

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -29.466602, 21.354227

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 28.273576, 2.692543

Summary:

Lat / Long: 23.863230, 5.329391

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -0.809489, 90.837492

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 29.948748, 31.383705

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 28.677852, 34.185752

summary

Winter sun climbing October to April on dry granite. Trad climbing in St Catherine, sport climbing in Dahab, bouldering everywhere. Plenty of new routing potential. Climb only or combine with diving.

description

Rock climbing in Egypt is in South Sinai, clustered around Dahab and St Catherine. It's perfect winter sun climbing from October to April on dry granite. Hundreds of trad routes in St Catherine, mainly long multi-pitch crack climbs, all grades. Sport climbing and excellent bouldering in Dahab. Sport routes up to french 7b. +400 bouldering problems of every level and variety inc projects. Plenty of new routing potential. Added bonus of climbing here is that there is world-class scuba diving and freediving in the Red Sea.

access issues

Bedouin guide required in some areas, recommended in all. Very inexpensive, supports local people who have few other employment opportunities, and will massively enrich your stay here. Ask for a guide who works with climbers, in Dahab there are also some Bedouin climbing guides. They're great cooks and drivers, they have camels to get you to the more remote climbs, and you'll make friends for life.

approach

Fly to Sharm El Sheikh, taxi to Dahab (1 hr) or St Catherine (2.5 hrs). Book taxi in advance, it will be cheaper and much less hassle.

history

see Sinai Rock Climbing Guide, download free pdf from desert-divers.com. For up-to-date information and Topos for Sports climbing in Wadi Gnai, The bouldering and the sandstone area see redsearock.com

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 31.859189, -6.538841

summary

some overview on http://climbmorocco.com/ and http://www.climb-europe.com/RockClimbingAfrica/Morocco.html

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 33.222510, -7.543657

description

some information (in French), route list on request: http://cafmaroc2011.ffcam.fr/escalade.html

Summary:

Sport climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 31.519459, -6.931519

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 29.584041, -8.261004

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 35.168915, -5.254829

description

I havent tried them but I found at least two bolted routes in the the middel of Chefchaouen during my one week stay there.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 35.269378, -5.218581

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 30.726674, -6.659300

summary

Ait Saoun

description

Trad climbing single and multi pitch on volcanic rock.

access issues

Parking is located near a small plantation beside the river. So far there are no issues parking there.

approach

From Ouarzazate follow the N9 for appr. 40km towards Ait Saoun or from Ait Saoun towards Ouarzazate appr. 2.5km. Parking next to a river (GPS30.73334, -6.65540)

where to stay

Camping possibilities in Agdz and Ouarzazate.

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 16.125653, 30.189533

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 15.422181, 36.425519

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 34.402544, 9.774815

Summary:

Trad climbing, Top roping and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 36.806485, 10.204204

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 36.375673, 10.117993

description

http://www.speleo-tunisie.com/escalade/

Topo : https://www.promo-grimpe.com/IMG/pdf/topo-escalade-a-zaghouan.pdf

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 8.600680, 39.509666

A crag near Mekelle, precise location unknown

description

From "A Guide to Rock Climbing and Bouldering in Ethiopia (2014)": The Bubu Hills cliff or Homebase as we like to call it, is a long basalt cliff east of Mekelle, our home town. It is located behind the Bubu Hills Hotel (now the Hilltops Hotel) and is easily accessible by car or by foot. Although the overall quality of the rock is rather poor due to onion-peel weathering of the basalt, extensive parts of compact rock with cracks can be found here. At the foot of the cliff, some large basalt blocks make good boulder fun. We opened 5 boulder routes (3 to 5c) and one easy chimney today. The chimney was named "LaTrine" (4a) since rock hyraxes were using the crack as a communal toilet.

• Name: Homebase • Location: Enderta • Altitude: 2250 m • Nearest city: Mekelle • Rock type: basalt • Route lengths: 50 meter • Number of routes today: 1 + 5 boulder routes • First route opened: 13/08/2004 by R. Aerts (Direct, 4b) • Equipped with: nothing • Other: boulders near rock base

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 13.914991, 39.346016

Mt Kenya’s peaks are formed from the hard core or plug of a volcano, the crater having long since been eroded away, and rises steeply on all sides some 450 m above the glaciers and scree slopes. There is excellent rock and ice climbing of a high standard to the twin summit peaks of Batian (5,199 m) and Nelion (5,188 m). The third highest peak is Pt. Lenana (4,985 m) which can be reached by any fit walker, suitably equipped and there is plenty of excellent ridge walking and scrambling up to heights of over 4,600 m.

Mt Kenya is in condition for rock climbing during two drier seasons, although those have not been well defined in recent years. From late December to March, the south faces of Mt Kenya are in the sun, while from June to October the north side is in the sun. The best season for routes with other orientations (e.g. east or west) is usually specified in their descriptions.

Despite its size, it is possible to gain altitude rapidly on Mt. Kenya and overzealous climbers run the risk of high-altitude sickness. Mt. Kenya is responsible for a large proportion of the world’s high-altitude pulmonary oedema cases (a potentially fatal form of Acute Mountain Sickness). This can be prevented (and the experience made more enjoyable) if a sensibly slow approach is made.

Also, because Mount Kenya is so close to the equator, night can descend with surprising rapidity, only about half an hour after the sun has set, which can catch out visitors from further latitudes.

Mount Kenya, like most mountains, can be a very dangerous place. Many people are injured and even killed each year. Do not attempt the mountain if you suffer from any health problems, or if you do not have the appropriate gear.

The elevation range is approximately 2,200 m to 5,200 m and includes several distinct vegetation zones: Mixed broad-leaf forest, Gallery Forest, Bamboo, Giant Heath and Hagenia, moorland tussock grasses, Giant Senecio and Lobelia and, at the uppermost elevation, rock and ice.

In 1997 UNESCO inscribed Mount Kenya a World Heritage Site as “one of the most impressive landscapes in Eastern Africa with its rugged glacier-clad summits, Afro-alpine moorlands and diverse forests that illustrate outstanding ecological processes”. Since 1978, the area is also an International Biosphere Reserve. Mt. Kenya, an extinct volcano that last erupted between 2.8 to 3.2 million years ago, was gazetted a National Park in 1949 and a National Reserve in 2000 and is managed by Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS).

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access issues

Mt Kenya is located within the Mt Kenya National Park and managed by the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) - entry fees and other info are available here - http://www.kws.org/tourism/tariffs.html

KWS regulations require all visitors to register upon entrance to the mountain and sign out on departure. Hiking alone is prohibited so you need a buddy or a guide. No burning is allowed. Take all litter out with you.

©

approach

To the Park - Mt. Kenya lies some 200 km north of Nairobi. Good roads lead to the nearby towns of Naro Moru (west side), Chogoria (east side) and Nanyuki (north side). From these locations, roads and tracks (approx. 20-30 km in length) lead up to the three main roadheads and the park gates. Some of these are often in very poor condition, necessitating a 4-wheel drive vehicle, or walking. The roads to Met Station from the Naro Moru Gate and to Old Moses from the Sirimon Gate are passable without a 4wd vehicle.

Car hire in Nairobi is readily available or one can take public buses (matatus) from Nairobi for around Ksh 700 - although those are not the safest form of transport they can get you to the turnoff from the main road. Then, to get to the roadheads one has to walk or get one of the motorbike taxis that are usually found near the Sirimon turnoff from the main road, or at Naro Moru.

Entry to and exit from the Mt. Kenya National Park can only be made during daylight hours before 6pm. The forest zone can be dangerous due to buffalo and elephant, especially at night. Although the higher huts on the mountain (above 4,000m) can be reached in one day from the road, its strongly recommended that two days be taken unless you are already acclimatised.

On the mountain - The Naro Moru, Chogoria and Sirimon Routes are by far the most popular routes up the mountain. Other routes (Timau, Burguret, Kamweti and Meru) have existed in the past, but have now fallen into differing states of disrepair and considerable navigation skill and physical strength and stamina are now required to attempt them, as well as a permit from the Park Headquarters. There are some tour operators offering guiding on these routes.

Timings given should be adequate for moderately fit parties not too heavily laden, with allowance only for brief halts. A good reserve should always be allowed for, and a start should be made early in the morning. For the descent allow at least half the time taken on the ascent.

NARO MORU ROUTE This route to the Teleki Valley is the shortest way to the peaks and is one of the most popular tracks. Owing to the fact that it is the shortest way up the mountain, there is a tendency for visitors to ascend too quickly and become the victims of mountain sickness and other illnesses related to altitude. It is therefore strongly advised that visitors unaccustomed to high altitude should consider hiking the first day from the Park Gate to the Met Station, rather than driving this stage of the ascent.

From Naro Moru town a well signposted mostly paved road leads 17 km to the Park entrance (2,400 m). If driving from Nairobi one can also follow the signposts for Naro Moru gate around 10 km before Naro Moru town, following a good paved road which then joins up with the road from Naro Moru town itself. After the Park entrance a paved road leads to the Met Station trailhead at 3,050 m where cars can be parked. A concrete walking track then climbs more steeply passing the MET station and then narrows to a footpath leading to the edge of the forest.

A steep, marshy section known as the “vertical bog” follows. The route keeps to the south side of the ridge, through open moorland until (about 3½ to 4 hours from the Met Station) the path reaches the crest of the ridge overlooking the Teleki Valley (4,000 m). The path contours along the south side of the Teleki Valley, keeping first high, and then gradually descends to reach the valley floor. It then follows the valley to reach Mackinder's Camp (4,200 m) with spectacular views of the south side of the mountain. From the Met Station to this point is about five to six hours.

The Austrian Hut (4,790 m) can be reached in a further three or four hours, but it is advisable not to attempt this from the Met Station in one day. The path to Austrian Hut (and onwards to Pt Lenana) leads from Mackinder’s Camp and initially contours up the left-hand side of Teleki Valley. A long pull then leads up the lateral moraine of the Lewis Glacier, veering left to the rocky bluff where the Austrian Hut is situated. Austrian Hut was the common starting point for those attempting the South-East Face of Nelion but it is also possible to access the route from Mackinder’s camp in about 3 hours

The KWS Rescue Ranger Station is located near the head of the Teleki Valley and close to the Mountain Club of Kenya hut.

SIRIMON ROUTE This track provides the easiest access to the northern side of the central peaks and the North Face Standard Route on Batian. It is a beautiful route with fine views of Sendeo and Terere, and of the main peaks. About 15 km from Nanyuki on the Timau road, just before the road winds down to cross the Sirimon River, a signposted track to the right leads 10 km to the Park Gate.

A paved road from the gate leads to Old Moses Hut and Judmaier Camp at the roadhead at 3,350 m. The track climbs 300m up the hill behind the hut to a communications station. Just beyond this point the track splits with the left hand route proceeding to the Mackinder Valley direct, and the right hand route going via the Liki North Hut.

The direct route contours the moorland across a series of ridges, dropping down to cross the Liki North River (where there is a bridge and picnic site) and then climbing the ridge to enter the Mackinder Valley. The path continues up the valley to the cliffs beneath Shipton’s Cave. From here the path climbs steeply up to the right and continues to Shipton’s Camp hut (4,250 m). From Old Moses to this point is about 6-7 hours.

The route via Liki North hut is tougher (8-9 hours to Shipton’s Camp). From the split head uphill towards a rounded hill called the Barrow. The path swings south climbing to the ridge of the Liki North Valley and then drops to the Liki North Hut (3,990m). The hut no longer exists but there is a campsite and this is a popular starting point for climbs on Sendeo and Terere. From the Likii North Hut the path climbs the ridge and then descends into the Mackinder Valley to join the direct route.

From Shipton’s Camp two main paths continue. To the right of the main peaks the path climbs to the Hausberg Col via Kami Tarn (which lies close to the start of the North Face Standard route. To the left the path ascends to Harris Tarn from which Pt Lenana can be reached.

CHOGORIA ROUTE The Chogoria route is considered the most picturesque on the mountain. It has no huts and requires climbers and hikers to be self-sufficient for camping.

The route begins from Chogoria town to the east of the mountain, about 96 km from Embu and 64 km from Meru. From here a 4 wheel drive vehicle is necessary to drive the 29 km track to the Park Gate at 3,000 m. There is accommodation available here at the Meru Mt Kenya Bandas. From the gate, the track continues to the Chogoria roadhead. From here the path tracks the north side of the Gorges Valley to reach Hall Tarns (4,230m) sitting on a plateau above Lake Michaelson. To reach Hall Tarns takes between 6 and 9 hours from the Chogoria Gate.

The path from Hall Tarns eventually splits. The right-hand path continues to Simba Col (4,620m) from where you can descend to Shipton’s Camp and the Mackinder Valley or continue up the ridge to Harris Tarn and then to Pt Lenana. The left-hand path takes you steeply up to Tooth Col and round Pt Lenana to the south to reach Austrian Hut.

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where to stay

There are a number of accommodation options outside the Mt Kenya National Park in the nearby towns of Nanyuki, Naro Moru and Chogoria. It is possible to camp or stay in bandas at the park gates. Please enquire directly with the operators of the accomodation for the latest fees. The fees below were accurate as of February 2019.

Accommodation on the mountain depends on the route hiked and there is a mixture of huts and campsites along each route. A tent is useful (or essential on the Chogoria Route or less well-travelled routes). Otherwise, the mountain has several huts, though it should be noted that several huts listed in old guidebooks have been demolished. Most of the existing huts are privately owned. If you plan to stay in huts, please contact the appropriate organisations for bookings. The fees help maintain the huts.

PARTIES USING THESE HUTS SHOULD LEAVE THEM CLEAN AND TIDY, AND BRING ALL GARBAGE OFF THE MOUNTAIN. PLEASE DO NOT MAKE USE OF OLD RUBBISH DUMPS.

NARO MORU ROUTE · Naro Moru River Lodge, 1.5 km from the main road in Naro Moru town, is a popular starting point with bunkhouse and guesthouse accommodation. · Met Station (3,050m) has basic self-service accommodation and camping at the roadhead of the Naro Moru route as is accessible on a paved road. The fees per person per night at Met Station for Kenyan citizens and residents are 1500 Ksh in low season (1 March-30 June and 16 September-8 December) Ksh , and 1900 Ksh in high season (all other times). For non-residents the rates are 26 USD for high season and 21 USD for low season. · Mackinder’s Camp (4,200m) in the Teleki Valley has a hut accommodating 66 people. The fees per person per night for Kenyan citizens and residents are 2000 Ksh for low season and 2600 Ksh for high season (same dates as above). The rates for non-residents are 27 USD for low season and 36 USD for high season.

Both Met Station and Mackinder’s Camp are owned by Naro Moru River Lodge. Fees are payable at a booking agent, the park/reserve gates, or online: http://naromoruriverlodge.com/ . Mountain Club of Kenya (MCK) members pay discounted rates when booked direct with the lodge.

· Austrian Hut (4,790 m) has three rooms and sleeps 30 people. It was opened in February 1973. Austrian Hut is manned by Kenya Wildlife Service staff, and costs 2000 KSh per night (same price for residents and non-residents). Payment can ONLY be made at the park/reserve gates for which a receipt MUST be obtained. Unplanned or additional nights at Austrian Hut are possible but payment for this is made at the park gate on exit against a receipt and NOT direct to the staff manning the hut.

SIRIMON ROUTE · Old Moses Hut (3,350 m) at the Sirimon Route roadhead offers self-service accommodation and costs 2500 Ksh per person per night (same price for residents and non-residents). · Shipton’s Camp (4,250 m) in the Mackinder Valley sleeps 40 people. It costs 3000 Ksh per person per night (same price for residents and non-residents).

Both huts are owned by Mountain Rock. MCK members pay discounted rates when booked direct at the lodge. Both of these can be reserved in Nairobi, at the Mountain Rock Hotel in Nanyuki, or online: https://www.mountainrockkenya.com/bantulodge/contact.php

· Liki North (3,993 m) no longer has a hut but there is a campsite.

CHOGORIA ROUTE The Chogoria Route is only for parties equipped for camping. Tents must be shown at the Chogoria Park Gate before parties can enter. · Meru Mt. Kenya Lodge at the Chogoria Gate costs US $15 per person. · Minto's Hut (4,297 m) is by Hall Tarns. The hut is for use by porters only.

ON NELION Howell Hut (5,188 m) - This magnificent bivouac shelter is located on the summit of Nelion. It was built by Ian Howell in February 1970 after five loads of construction materials had been successfully parachuted onto the Lewis Glacier. In a feat which can only be described as remarkable, Howell then made thirteen solo ascents of Nelion as he gradually carried the materials to the summit. The floor is foam covered. Baillie’s Bivy is about half-way to the top of Nelion but it has fallen into disrepair, often filled with snow and ice. Few people stay there nowadays.

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Summary:

Though difficult to reach, the setting is one of the best in Kenya and the climbing of a high quality. The gneiss walls are often covered in holds and free of vegetation. Cracks and corners abound, but tend to be more vegetated.

The most impressive piece of rock, the 300m. high E face, attracted the first explorers and resulted in the ascent of Great Tsavo Chimney. Mastadon took 3 visits before it was completed. One of the latest routes. Ivory Tower on Elephant Rocks, ranks with the best and hardest bush climbs in Kenya.

Generally pegs need not be carried. Unless climbing in the shade, an early start is advisable as it often gets very hot on clear days. The permit the MCK has to climb here, and to camp by the Tsavo river, is a special privilege and every effort must be made not to jeopardize this situation by careless actions. The following should be noted.

Non MCK members must contact the MCK if they wish to climb in Tsavo. At present the privilege is extended to MCK members and their guests only.
Ensure /our vehicle is adequately prepared for the trip. If you do not have 4WD, planks should be taken to help cope with deep sand.
Do not drive in the park after dark.
No walking, other than to and from climbs, is allowed.
If you require mechanical assistance you will have to walk to Ngulia Lodge where help can be obtained.
Only camp at the designated campsite unless special permission has been given.
Take care with fires and bring out all litter. The toilet is a sandy area W of the camp; go at least 30m. away and dig a deep hole which should be thoroughly filled in after use; a panga should be taken on all trips for this specific purpose.
Do not disturb animals. In the event of any need for medical assistance, obtain help from the warden as soon as possible.
Exercise great care when approaching the river. There are numerous crocodiles and hippopotami in the water whose behaviour is unpredictable. River water can be drunk in an emergency; it contains no major diseases but it is rather muddy. Fresh water is available at the park gates and at Ngulia Lodge.

The nearest petrol/garage facilities are at Mtito Andei, 70 km. from campsite.

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access issues

Within a National Park so you'll have to pay entry and respect Park rules.

©

approach

access issues

Check with the conservancy: http://www.lolldaiga.com/

©

Summary:

All Top roping

Lat / Long: 0.431833, 36.988103

summary

Beautiful climbing in one of the best wildlife areas in Kenya.

access issues

This is on Private Land and you must contact Karisia Walking Safaris to book some climbing and/or camping: https://www.karisia.com

approach

2 hour drive from Nanyuki

where to stay

Camp with Karisia or Self Camping. Contact Karisia

ethic

Leave no trace. Respect Wildlife and Private Property

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -2.390240, 37.983266

summary

Kibwezi is a little explored area South 3 hours on Mombasa Road from Nairobi. It has enormous potential for bouldering, bold trad, and sport development, although little has been done there yet.

description

Kibwezi has numerous crags and boulders on the mountain of Ngoleni, which is capped by a number of cellphone towers. It can be clearly seen from Mombasa road. There is also a lot of climbing in Dwa Estate with prior permission.

access issues

Access is currently informal, as it is little visited, but the landowners are quite friendly and the security guards at the cellphone towers happy to have visitors. Do not pay the landowners without prior MCK approval.

approach

The approach is from around the town of Kibwezi over a network of rough roads. These are well mapped on maps.me. Accessing the boulder fields and lower crags is not difficult, but the road to the summit is quite steep and can be muddy. A good 4x4 or Pro Box is recommended.

where to stay

The area is generally friendly, and if you ask permission landowners will let you stay on their land in exchange for some food and company. Camping options are available. Plus Kambua Lodge in Kibwezi.

ethic

Although the area has huge potential for 1 and 2 pitch sport, check with the MCK before bolting.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 0.375056, 37.058236

summary

Remote bouldering on a conservancy on the Lakipia plateau with the potential for a lot more development and exploration.

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description

Il Polei has potential for further development (and enough problems already established for a fun weekend).

Car camping and a short approach means that once the brutal offroad driving is navigated the actual bouldering and crashpad management is trivial.

Some additional development is for sure possible at the hills and ridges described here, but mostly it is the other hillsides visible in the surrounding terrain that likely hold massive amounts of bouldering.

The rock suffers from initial looseness and choss, but once the obvious pieces are pulled off the underlying quality is very high. There is potential for hundreds of problems within a 2-3 mile radius of the campground. Il Polei could be a legitimate bouldering destination.

©

approach

Getting to Il Polei would take approx. 5-6 hours from Nairobi, sans traffic and with a good 4x4. Follow Google directions through Nanyuki to the town of Il Polei. Meet up with your guide, and make the only left turn in the town. Follow that road for a few kilometers to a left turn onto a very serious offroad trail. You will need ground clearance for this one. Follow the vague road for about 1km to a dead-end amongst the cacti and right next to a twisty dry riverbed. There are signs indicating this to be the campground, and there are pit toilets nearby signifying that you are in the right spot. Bring everything you need, as water will be scarce, Il Polei is very small and Nanyuki is not very close

Pins may not be 100% accurate, but should be in the right area..

©

summary

Not much is known about Kaloleni Rock Formation except that it's rocks not too far from Kilifi. There's reportedly one bolted line.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 0.409486, 37.056154

summary

A superb boulder field along a ridge with spectacular views across Laikipia up to Mt Kenya on a clear day. Located on private property, requiring permission from the owners to access.

description

Spend a pleasant morning or evening exploring boulders of fantastic quality rock, easy to moderate grades right next to a wonderful AirB&B location. Plenty more (harder) routes to explore and establish!

access issues

To access the area, you need to enquire with the owners of the Glass Room & Wooden Cabin Air B&B (Charlie and Mouse). They live in their private house just 500m up the valley and are very open to enquiries. The Air B&B itself is lovely, complete with a 'Glass Room', mess tent, kitchen hut and is situated right above the boulderfield itself (which means the boulders are literally a hop, skip and a jump away!) The Air B&B link is https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/16863038?guests=1&adults=1&s=67&unique_share_id=d20d4d36-5e0c-4183-9698-5aeb4ce275e4

approach

If staying at the Air B&B, you'll be living right amidst the boulder field!

where to stay

The Glass Cabin B&B. (Its about USD100 per night. not cheap, but worth it!) If Charlie and Mouse are OK with you staying elsewhere, you might be able to find camping or lodge accommodation in the neighbouring areas.

history

Very limited exploration in the area to-date. There is so much to explore, please post updates!

Summary:

Naibor Enkeju can be described as four crags:

Lichen Slabs. This section, south of Leopard Crack, is ideal for beginners, and can be made to give pitches of Difficult.

Vulture Face. This central section is the longest and steepest part of the cliff and has been climbed on the left and right only, Parts of the centre overhang and the upper half is dominated by a cave into which it is possible to climb down from the top of the crag.

Baboon Rocks. These northern rocks are mostly unclimbable because of overhangs, but give good short pitches and scrambles in their southern half. There is also an entertaining (severe) 6 m crack in the blocks up against Vulture Face near the top of the crag.

The northern ridge of the hill gives one exposed but well—protected pitch of Very Difficult.

Sunset Crag: The wall on the west of the northern nose is steep and has small holds. It has not yet been climbed by man, but baboons frequently de sport themselves there in the evening sun. More than once they have been seen to fall of, displaying an enviable ability to stop themselves before hitting the ground.

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approach

The information provided below is from the 1960s. The pass is no longer needed but you should expect to be fully self-sufficient with a good 4x4, preferably in a convoy of at least 2 cars. At time of writing (2023), there is some conflict in the area, but you should seek out your own information and make your own decisions on safety.

To visit Naibor Enkeju a pass should be obtained either by writing to or telegraphing to the aegional government agent, Mara1a19 P.O. Rumuruti, giving details of party and length of stay. It is simpler not to take firearms, which are not needed anyway.

Naibor Enkeju is 203 miles from Nairobi via Gilgil, Thomson's Falls and Rumuruti. At Suguta Marmar your pass may be inspected. 11 miles beyond Sugata Marmar, next to the airstrip, turn east along the Maralal—Wamba road for 2 miles, and then drive easily across country for 3 miles, crossing a small valley to the base of the main cliff on the east side of the hill. Shade trees and firewood can be found but water should be taken. There are no mosquitoes. As a rule there are Samburu manyattas in the neighourhood. At Mara1al, 12 miles from the Wamba turn—off, petrol and stores can be bought. Horses can normally be hired from the Regional Government Agent for a small charge per day. The grandest view of the Rift in Kenya is from Losiolo, some twenty miles north of Maralal. This point can usually be reached by private car. It is best to continue from the end of the road and walk across a forested col to the peak that stands out in the Rift.

©

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -2.052665, 37.602387

description

Ithumba Hill, which should not be confused with another hill also called lthumba, east of the Athi River in lower Kitui, rises out of the plains north of Simba. Ithumba Hill can be seea from the main Nairobi-Mombasa road between Emali and Simba - the big easterly precipice is particularly prominent from here.

The rock is gneiss, and slants at at an excellent angle for climbing. The type of climbing is similar to that of Lukenya, but the rocks are more impressive than anything there, not excluding the Main Face [Editor's note - personal opinion from 1949, take with a pinch of salt]. Whether the Ithumba rocks, as a whole, will give as much fun as Lukenya, though, remains to be seen, they might.

As with Lukenya, Ithumba is easily accessible to the motorist, the main face being within 200 metres of the nearest road. It is only 160 km from Nairobi, the first 134 of which (Nairobi to Emali) are along the main Mombasa road, and the crag could well be visited from Nairobi in the course of a long weekend. The dry weather is best, because in the rains the Muoni River, which must be crossed, may be in spate. [Ed. a 2023 recce is needed to check access now].

The road which skirts the east face of Ithumba passes through tall shady trees near the base of the crag, and this locality is suitable for a campsite. There is water locally, the nearest being 6 km away at Mbulutini, but this is too brackish to drink. The nearest good water is at a spring which feeds the Masai dam dear the railway half a mile west of Simba. The country immediately east of Irhumba is mostly uninhabited and covered with thick bush. There are rhino here, but it is unlikely that a climber will be molested in the immediate vicinity of the hill, although those who want to roam in the bush should carry a rifle.

Ithumba is at an altitude of around 1300 m, rising 213 m from the surrounding plains. The main face is 91 m high (3,800 to 4,100 figures by aneroid).

The main face is intersected by series of approximately horizontal terraces which (unfortunately, perhaps) provide a number of easy ways off the rocks. Only one route has been done to date on this face - the Aloe Climb, described below - but there should be many other climbs awaiting discovery both here and on the subsidiary tocks along the south flank of the hill. The photographs give a fair idea of the sort of climbing to be expected the only things I don't like about this crag are the belays. These are even smaller than on Lukenya, the average being a couple of thumbnails high. They are solid enough, but I can never make up my mind how they should be used. Should one lean trustfully on the belay, making little use of the normally inadequate stance below, or should one perch precariously on the stance, making little use of the belay, in which case as the loop is not pulled off, it will almost certainly flop off.

©

approach

[Ed. to be checked in 2023 - the information below dates from 1949] From Emali there are three alternative routes to lthumba:

Via the Makueni road, Hide Banda and Mbulutini (23 km, see accompanying map)
Along the main road to Simba (18 km, thence via Mbulutini (14 km)).
From Simba via the track which passes Nguu Hill (23 km).

The second loute is the best, the surface being very fair (suitable for cars) and the crossing of the Muoni River at Simba, though steep, is usually in good order.

The first route is not bad, but the Mbulutini crossing is less well kept up. The third route is rough and much overgrown.

The easy way up the hill is to skirt the bottom of the north face for a quarter of a mile, then slant back up a steep, open slope which leads to the top (see map), There is also another route, but it is steep and rough, up the south slope.

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history

First discovered and climbed in 1949 by M. E. W. North.

There are 4 sport-climbing and several boulder areas around Antananarivo

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -22.090330, 46.771029

summary

Big wall climbing on black and orange streaked cliffs.

description

Tsaranoro Massif is a collection of large granite domes in Madagascar. This is Madagascar's best big wall climbing area, with many demanding classics, such as the demanding 8C+ Tough Enough.

http://ailedescimes.com https://www.campcatta.com/topo2.php

approach

The cliffs stand over the small village of Andonaka, which is only a small hike away.

where to stay

Camp Catta is at the base of the cliffs and is a privately owned campsite which you can stay in. Accommodation could also be found in Andonaka.

history

The first ascent of any of the cliffs was by Kurt Albert and Bernd Arnold, on the 7b+ route Rain Botto in 1995.

Summary:

Sport climbing, Top roping and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -14.949697, 34.715519

summary

Climb Malawi is socio-economically inclusive community in Lilongwe, coordinating rock climbing activities in Malawi.

description

The Climb Centre in the capital Lilongwe is the heart of the most active climbing community in Malawi. The bouldering gym opens everyday Mondays-Thursday 09.00-20.00; Fridays 08.00-17.00 and Saturdays-Sundays 10.00-16.00.

On most weekends, outdoor climbing trips are organized.

To encourage local participation, we operate on a by-donation model: a minimum suggested amount can be paid by those who can afford to pay and those who cannot afford to pay even that are still welcome to come and climb (pay whatever they can afford or volunteer with us in exchange for membership)

approach

From the M1 and Area 18-10-30 crossroads (cross-junction) take the road going down to the Area 18 cemetery. Turn left on the second turn into area 18 where there is the red and white radio tower. Take the immediate right turn just before the shops and follow the road as it curves and then turn right again (there is usually a cargo truck parked by the side of the road), the dirt road looks like a dead end but Climb Malawi is the last plot on the left and there is always a sign outside.

Location also available on google maps, but often misleading because it guides you to the other side where the road does not connect . Use it together with these direction.

history

Founded in 2018 by Tyler Algeo

Summary:

Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: -14.534310, 34.501109

summary

Climbing at Mulundi in characteristically sharp granite holds. On the border between Malawi and Mozambique at Lizulu, Ntcheu.

description

Mulundi Hill (1665 m), in the Kirk Range, is an imposing wall located in Ntcheu district, about 5 km south of Lizulu trading center (when approaching from Lilongwe), in the southern part of Malawi’s Central Region. It is located 120 km south of Lilongwe City (or a 2.5 hours drive) in direct proximity to the M1 (Malawi’s main highway).

Likely to have company on the approach and spectators while climbing. Kids from the host community are always welcome. Have respect for their presence even when it inconveniences you. Remember you are the visitor in their area.

access issues

Landowners are the community who have granted permission and allowed for outsiders to come and climb.

approach

When coming from Lilongwe you park at Ganizani's Tea Room (parking fee MWK2,000 per vehicle per day) which is on the right of the M1. Cross the road and walk North East towards the hill. The first sector is only a 15 minutes approach.

where to stay

Dedza is the nearest town 20 minutes South of Mulundi. It has some mid-range accommodation places to stay. Camping is also allowed on the hill, but there is no water up there and so the party that decides to spend the night up there must carry everything with them (Porters can also be arranged).

ethic

Sport routes. Route developer gets to decide on route naming and has final say: they can either name it themselves or leave the honour to the first ascensionist. Bolting ground-up and on abseil are both acceptable.

Climb Malawi coordinates route development and all interests must go through it.

Strict LNT

history

Mulundi was first discovered as a rock-climbing venue in late 2020 by Ed Nhlane and Petter Sundqvist from Climb Malawi. Ed was at the time based in Dedza working for an NGO whereas Petter was based in Ntcheu working at the district council. Over the following months, several exploration trips were undertaken by the two to map out the area and sensitize traditional leaders and nearby landowners about the project. On February 22, a meeting with village chiefs and a group village headman resulted in permission to develop Mulundi Hill for rock climbing being granted. Following this meeting, Ed and Petter began the work of bolting some of the most prominent lines in the area. In 2021, 8 routes were equipped with top rope anchors and one route (The Muppet) was fully bolted for lead climbing.

Efforts to further develop Mulundi Hill are ongoing and, in 2022, several of the routes were fully bolted by Ed, Petter, Joost Sikkema, Annemieke van Merkerk, Aka Lichtner and Michael Levy. In August 2023, Todd and Donette Swain developed 4 new routes at S1. In the week after, Genevive Walker, Scott Clark, and Mario Stanley conducted the first ever Climbing Clinics (Advanced Climbing and Bolting) and added 5 more routes at S2.

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: -14.083353, 33.899772

summary

Local Crag within Lilongwe

description

Half an hour (33km) South of Lilongwe City off the M1. Crag is on the premised of Nathenje Hope Secondary School. Maintained by Climb Malawi.

If you like the routes there, consider donating to the crag management fund at Climb Malawi.

access issues

When schools are in session, climbing is strictly outside school hours (after 14h30) during weekdays but can climb any time on weekends.

approach

Park outside the fence of the school grounds and walk to the crag. Landowners prefer that people park outside to inside the perimeter wall.

where to stay

Lilongwe City

history

Developed by Tyler Algeo between 2019-2019. Further developed by Ed Nhlane from 2022.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -14.028676, 34.090089

summary

Nkhoma Bouldering Field within Lilongwe. Perfect day outing.

description

55 km Southeast (1 hour drive) of Lilongwe city. Boulders are at the foot of the lesser peak, Mbalambala Peak. Bouldering season is after crop harvest between April and November. In the growing season, farmers from the local villages make ridges and plant maize all around the boulders. Fore that reason, December-March is closed off to allow them to grow their crops without our interruption.

access issues

Climbing is allowed so long as you respect the bouldering season.

approach

Park outside the Nkhoma CCAP Church and walk up the paved road. Where the road curves to the left continue straight up along the avenue (with the big trees on both sides). The approach takes 30-40 minutes and goes past the Nsumati village which is close to the field

where to stay

Lilongwe or at Nkhoma guest houses/inns

ethic

No bouldering in crop growing season

history

Around September 2019, a year after the climbing community was founded in Lilongwe, Tyler Algeo, Vania Wang, Jotex Kunkhongo and Ed Nhlane from Climb Malawi met with the community leaders under the Group Village Head Nsumati to explain bouldering, seek permission to start rock climbing activities in their area, and discuss community benefit resulting from such a partnership.

Permission was granted and terms were agreed upon, including involvement of the local kids in the activity.

Summary:

Sport climbing, Top roping and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -15.753058, 35.050193

summary

Climbing at Ndirande Hill in Blantyre

approach

From the outskirts of Ndirande township walk towards the mountain. Wisdom Wall is 15 minutes away from Ndirande Mountain View Secondary School. Parking can be tricky (need to find a good place, usually the school and ask someone to watch over the car)

where to stay

Blantyre City

summary

Venue for slab and multipitch climbing in Malawi with the longest vertical wall in Africa at 1700m.

approach

From Vicky's Shop to the Approach Slabs

where to stay

Thuchila Tourist Lodge and at Likhubula and the Hikers Nest are closest to the routes at Chambe West Face. And Mulanje Sports Club at the town.

ethic

Because of issues of theft of hangers on the lower pitches of the slab (usually P1-21, but sometimes up to P4), new developers for new routes must use stainless steel glue-in bolts where there is a high change people can steal them but can continue with bolts and hangers going further from P2.

Mulanje is a world heritage conservation Biome. Bolting is only permissible after careful consideration of the effects the proposed line will have on the sensitive environment there. Climb Malawi, Mountain Club or Malawi and Mulanje Mountain Conservation Trust need to be consulted prior to any bolting expedition (one of the 3 is fine).

description

2 crags very close to each other under the Albion lighthouse. I would say routes were 5.8 and above.

approach

Very short and not difficult approach to reach the crags - going down the side of the cliff.

history

Climbing is not a very widespread sport on the island but these routes are maintained by a very small and tight community of local climbers. In early 2023 community was growing and this area had around 5 ungraded routes.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -21.149835, 55.530787

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -21.102747, 55.277211

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -21.018138, 55.236931

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -21.128501, 55.452130

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -21.121487, 55.278885

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -21.157800, 55.288596

Summary:

Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: -21.152832, 55.282944

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -21.273717, 55.410575

description

Zona de iniciación

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -21.280032, 55.452468

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -21.226555, 55.327887

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -1.990655, 29.940542

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -2.124763, 30.693587

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Also place to pray

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -1.586800, 29.520510

description

A nice 300 foot (100 meter) crag , with a very short approach, on the north side of the Ruhengeri-Gisenyi road, about 15 minutes drive from Ruhengeri. Expect a crowd (and some run outs!). The east side of the cliff is characterized by very steep rock with few cracks. The routes described here are on the lower angled south face closer to the road. Much of the protection is ancient bolts that look like pitons driven into the rock.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -1.923988, 30.029680

summary

The routes may be short (30 feet), but the location, just minutes from the heart of Kigali, and the scenic setting on the steep slopes of Mt. Jali make “Secret Valley” very popular.

description

The most popular routes are in close proximity, starting on the right (facing up) with the prominent couloir (note the name “Couloir” in fading white paint at is base). Routes are described right to left.

access issues

To reach the cliffs, drive toward Gitarama but, before leaving the crowded environs of Kigali (and well before the turn off to Ruhengeri), take a hidden dirt road down an embankment, over a bridge, across a soccer pitch, and then right following the river with several bridges that lack railings (drive carefully, especially if wet!). After 10 minutes, you will see the cliffs high on the hill to your right. Turn around and park 200 meters further back.

Descend on a trail to the river and cross it (former bridge was washed out so the river may need to be forded – making Secret Valley not ideal after heavy rains). Pick up a series of steep trails which first traverse left then head more or less straight up. After 20 minutes or so from the car, traverse left to the base of the cliffs or continue higher and the head left across a slab to reach the cliff top (where a lone tree provides a top rope anchor). An extra rope is needed to extend the anchor 50 feet down to the cliff edge. Also, the rope crosses over a walking path, so it may be wise to pay a "guard".

From the top, a scramble descent to the right (facing down) is possible, but use care as there is some exposure.

We parked at -1.926225, 30.027343 or 1°55'34.4"S 30°01'38.4"E, which is on the road about parallel to the cliffs. Be careful of the river; it hadn't yet started raining where we were but the river rose rapidly and we had to ford it on the way back.

approach

With such a long distance to the anchor, people should keep rope stretch in mind. The face is so short that you could potentially deck hard on a fall if you use two dynamic ropes.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -2.279131, 29.683001

description

good rock just too short and too far away.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -6.941022, 50.923652

summary

This is the main island of the Seychelles where most Seychellois live.

summary

The second largest island of the Seychelles.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -4.361083, 55.837398

summary

La Digue is the third most populated island of the Seychelles, and fourth largest by land area, lying east of Praslin and west of Felicite Island.

Summary:

Sport climbing, Top roping and other styles

Lat / Long: 1.267187, 32.356613

summary

Most of UGs great rocks have never been climbed, so FAs abound! There is growing community and some good sport climbing too! It's a gorgeous country and a cheap destination for a climbing holiday.

©

description

Disclaimer

Uganda is an extremely diverse country. Annoyances and inconveniences may vary from region to region and village to village. What is agreed upon, accepted, or paid in one place may be rejected in another. What is safe one year or in one area may not be safe the next year or in a different region. Uganda, especially some areas, is also extremely remote. Some routes have only been climbed once. With so few climbers it has been impossible to fact check all route descriptions and difficulty grades. It is therefore possible that errors in route descriptions exist. Users of this guide must use their own judgment at all times. Neither the author, nor the publisher accepts any responsibility or liability for accidents or incidents that arise from consulting this book. This guide is intended for experienced climbers only. Climbing and mountaineering are inherently dangerous activities and one could be seriously injured or even killed. Inexperienced climbers should be discouraged from attempting the routes described in this book. Instead, inexperienced climbers should seek advice, help, and training from certified professionals.

Climbing and Mountaineering in Uganda

Uganda has arguably the best mountains in Africa. Tanzania claims the highest mountain (Kilimanjaro) and Kenya #2 (Mt. Kenya), but Uganda has huge mountains that are unspoiled, unique, remote, and see far fewer visitors. The incredible Rwenzori (third highest in Africa), are a true mountain range, soar over 5100m and contain glaciers on the equator! The virungas in the southwest have pristine trails, gorgeous jungles, rare mountain gorillas, and postcard quality bamboo zones. The peaks of Moroto, Kadam, Rom, Zulia, Napak and Morungole in Karamoja are almost completely unknown to the outside world and choke full of “raw” Uganda.

Uganda never had large numbers of European colonists or settlers like some regions of Africa. By comparison to Kenya, South Africa and Namibia, parts of Uganda have had very little European influence, hence there has been less climbing and less mountain exploration here. As I traveled around the country climbing, hiking, kayaking and looking for other adventures, I found climbable rocks and mountains mostly around the borders of the country. The British, under which Uganda was held as a protectorate until 1962, drew up the borders of the country using natural, geographic borders (mostly mountains), so following the land borders makes sense for climbers and mountaineers. In the west, the massive Rwenzori mark the border with the DRC. In the southwest, large Virunga peaks mark the corner of the country and follow it’s border with Rwanda. In the east, Mt Elgon marks the end of Uganda and the beginning of Kenya. In the south, Lake Victoria was used to mark the border, but in the north, no clear geographic border was used. Coincidentally or perhaps not, it is in Uganda’s north that has seen the lion’s share of trouble since decolonization. Until just a couple years ago, traveling in northern Uganda was not recommended. Travel restrictions have been lifted and today, the north represents the best place to see raw Uganda and the best place for climbers to explore. There are no huge mountains here, but plenty of big walls and 2000m mountains exist with no record of ever having been hiked. Very many beautiful and climbable faces have yet to be “discovered” and certainly many breathtaking, remote, and unspoiled treks have yet to be made known to the outside world.

Climate and Climbing Season in Uganda

The climbing season is year round, but parts of Uganda can be pretty hot with punishing sun, so early morning or early evening climbs are best. Some walls are shaded part of the day and I have tried to include that information in as many route descriptions as possible. Uganda lies on the Equator so sunrise and sunset are always right around 6:45-7:00 am/pm. The only noticeable seasons are “wet” and “dry”. Wet season months have been unpredictable in recent years and vary from region to region. i.e. the Rwenzori are almost always wet and best to hike in Dec-Feb when it is least wet. Kampala’s wettest months are April and November, but you can absolutely climb during those months. So, check climate graphs for the area you’re planning. Even though very heavy rainstorms can hit, they are usually brief. Terrible weather one afternoon can lead to great climbing the next morning as routes tend to dry out quickly. In the north, the best months are November to February. If you are heading for Mt. Oret, keep in mind that rock can hold water on the top/inside for days and takes a long time to dry out. The routes of Zigzag and Corporate Night will be very wet/slippery and might even run under small waterfalls even days after rain has stopped, so check the weather carefully and use your binoculars before starting up.

Dry season months, especially towards the end of dry season, have the benefit of less bush to contend with upon the approach and in the cracks and gullies. Bush is never a problem at the main/established crags like Pierre’s Quarry, Insita, Sipi’s Main Wall, Chema, Kkungu, Kilembe, and Rwakobo. The other sites are less well established, but have village/community trails very near to them. It is only the last few hundred meters of the approach that bush is ever an issue, but it can be a nightmare to get through. Plan accordingly. The routes on Amiel and Rwot can be bushy on much of the climb as well. Naita and Kilibi are excellent trad destinations as they dry fast and have pretty good trails very good trails leading right up or very near to the rock. I have done a lot of good outdoor climbing in all twelve months, but occasionally get really frustrated with a string of rainy days that can make some sites next to impossible.

Raw Uganda

I have traveled in every region of the country and been charmed again and again by Uganda’s charismatic people, geographic beauty and diversity. Most of the “new” routes we opened in the creation of this guide are in the far north. I love the north because of its rawness, but I also love it because it has very hard, good quality rock and more opportunities for real exploration and first ascents than elsewhere in Uganda. Plus, it is the cheapest part the country. Because of previous conflict in the north, it was ostensibly closed to climbers until just a few years ago, so I dedicated more time to exploring the north than to other, more well known regions. To be slightly more specific, I consider the north to be Karamoja, Acholiland, and West Nile. By far, Karamoja has the most promise for climbers and trekkers, however the entire north is ripe for exploration. Most of the known sport routes in Uganda are clustered around Kampala, not because these are the best rocks, but simply because most of the foreigners/expats/muzungus live in Kampala and have led the way in establishing the sport. Climbing is just starting to catch on among the Ugandan community and the first Ugandan climbing/trekking club, Uganda Mountain Slayers, was formed in 2015.

Possible Itinerary

The mountains and rocks in this guide mostly exist around the western, northern, and eastern edges. So, I would recommend beginning in the Virungas of the southwest, traveling to the Rwenzori in the west, then across the north and finish by working your way down to the Mbale around near Sipi Falls in the east, or start in Sipi and reverse. This could take anywhere from a couple weeks to several month depending on how “deep” you want to go…

Scope of this Guide

This book covers all known climbing in Uganda. It also covers most of the known hikes in the country. I have done these climbs and hikes personally.

Climbers in Uganda have only just scratched the surface of potential climbs in the country and this is unlikely to change in the immediate future given the remoteness of some of these places.

Note on Currency

We have listed everything in Uganda Shillings throughout this guidebook because that is the currency you will most likely be paying in. In my four years in Uganda, I have never heard of a local refusing US Dollars and I have even paid for things using Kenyan Shillings and Euros. I’m sure you can pay in other currencies as well but UG Shillings are the norm. It is very rare to find an ATM that will give out dollars. Forex currency exchange bureaus exist in all the larger towns. The bottom line is that you’ll most likely find yourself paying in shillings most of the time. Uganda Wildlife Authority readily accepts Uganda Shillings or US Dollars and they publish their exchange rate at the beginning of each month. At the time of writing in July of 2017, the exchange rate was 3602 UGX to 1 USD and UWA was using a rate 3600 to 1.

Uganda Wildlife Authority

UWA is responsible for ten national parks and charges foreigners 30-40 USD per day for entry. Some of the most fabulous mountains in Uganda lie within these parks so plan on paying these fees for the Rwenzori, Mt Elgon, and the Virungas (Muhabura, Sabinyo, and Gahinga). UWA also manages many wildlife reserves and sanctuaries. None of the rock climbing in this guide lay within UWA territory. The hikes of Moroto, Kadam, Napak, and Morungole also lie outside UWA parks and these hikes can be done without paying UWA fees. This book mainly aims to provide information on “outside the park adventures” as the parks are already well documented in other books and websites.

Phones in Uganda

Given the unreliability of phone numbers in the country, I have very sparingly included numbers in this guide. Many Ugandans have several numbers, often change numbers, phones go missing, get stolen, get spoiled, etc. I have included some very reliable numbers that I have used for several years.

However, not to worry! While traveling, I rarely call ahead and usually have no trouble showing up unannounced. I just ask for the person I am looking for and usually find them at home, in the bar, at a boda boda stage, or under the local mango tree! Communities are quite small and everyone knows everyone, so you will find who you are looking for pretty quickly, assuming you are in the right town!

Climbing Ratings

This book uses South African difficulty grades. This is a good system because, along with Aussie grades, has no decimal places, letter/number combinations, and +s, -s. It is a straightforward ordinal number grading system. Known grades in UG currently range from 8-25, which equates from roughly 2-7a in the French system, or 5.2 to 5.11d in YDS. Also most African countries already us SA grades and I hope by encouraging SA grades here, it will not only clearly communicate the difficulty of climbs to everyone in the easiest possible way, it will encourage all of Africa to have one unified grading system. South Africa, by far, leads the way in both sport and trad climbing on this continent, so they are the logical leader as well. Additionally, many climbers from SA visit UG and have encouraged the spread of this as the grading system in the country.

Most of the trad routes in this book have been climbed less than five times. Only Amiel (13) in Agago district has been trad climbed more than ten times in recent years. Several of the trad routes in this book have only been climbed once so use ratings with caution. Please send feedback to the author. Rating routes is a subjective “art” and discussions on ratings often end with some measure of disagreement. For all routes, I have consulted a number of climbers before publishing a difficulty grade, but as some of the routes are very rarely climbed, consulting many climbers was not possible in all cases.

Costs and Proceeds of this Book: I have kept costs to a bare minimum and bore those myself. All content will be freely given. The price for printed versions will only cover printing costs. The online content available at theCrag.com and ViewRanger has been made available at no cost.

Purpose of this Book

Uganda is a beautiful place, but also a tragic one. I have been fortunate enough to explore in every district of the country. I found many pleasant surprises and a few heartbreaking ones as well. Over my time here, more and more people began contacting me for information about the country and this grew to an almost daily occurrence. As my network grew, so did my knowledge of Uganda. More and more, I realized that a book like this needed to be written. Not only will this book share much of the knowledge I have gained whilst here, it will protect it as well. It is my hope that this publication will draw people to the rocks and mountains of Uganda. Through this, I hope visitors will do as I have done and try to leave this place in better shape than they found it. Travel responsibly.

Finding Climbing Partners in Uganda

The best way to find a climbing partner in Uganda is through the Mountain Club of Uganda. They maintain a closed Facebook group with over 4000 followers. Make sure to sign up for that group, answer the questions, and get accepted. Once in the group, simply post that you are looking for partners. You will probably find one within hours. If you are not on FB, you can write directly to the club to info@mcu.ug to request information about possible partners. Also, make sure to ask about Whatsapp groups as a large number exist and are also a great way to meet people and find climbers. Most of the climbers are based in Kampala though, so if you are on an expedition in the far north, finding a partner could be difficult. The MCU climbs regularly at Pierre’s Quarry in Kampala (Kyeitabya/Muyenga) and at Insita Rock (Luwazi) in nearby Kalagi (45 minutes from Kampala by car), and finding partners for these two sport crags should be pretty easy. Trips to Kkungu, Rwakobo and Sipi Falls are popular as well and finding partners for weekend trips to those sites it pretty easy.

Tip: many climbers here don’t have cars, so getting to some of the crags is tricky. If you have a car and want to climb, filling your seats with climbing partners will be no problem.

Note on Climbing Gear

In Uganda, you won’t find any for sale, except for occasional second hand stuff on Facebook. At the time of writing, only a couple dozen people in Kampala own ropes, probably less than twenty have quickdraws, and I only know of five people with trad racks. There are no commercial shops in Kamapala, or anywhere in the country for that matter that sell any climbing gear whatsoever, so bring everything with you. I have tried as much as possible to include the gear needed in each route description. At the time of writing I had placed a #5 Black Diamond cam a couple times and a #6 only once in UG! If you plan to explore trad, definitely bring a full rack with micros, lots of Alpine draws and plenty of slings.

Pay to Climb?

There are no places in Uganda that require any payment for climbing, though people will tell you otherwise. Almost everywhere you go someone is likely to ask for money. Here is a quick summary of what climbers tend to pay. At Luwazi, we pay 3k for parking at Ishma’s house. For that, he will look after your car and we have never had a security issue, though if you leave your phone lying on the rock unattended, local kids will snatch it up. You can also buy things from Ishma like samosas and fruit, but climbing is free. At the Pierre’s Quarry, you must be a Mountain Club of Uganda member. Membership is 50k per year. Membership gets you lots of discounts around Uganda and is usually more than worth it. Quarry access is granted by the landowner to the MCU only and the MCU has paid for all the bolting. The MCU has access to the indoor wall at ISU as well and more info can be found at that section. Access at the Sipi wall is free, though you will have to pay someone 2k for parking at Moses Camp. Locals will demand payment and even claim to own the rock, but that is not the case. Visit the Sipi police station and ask for protection if needed. Access at the Chema wall is also free, though you should pay 2k for parking at Colin’s shop in Chema. You should usually pay a local person a couple thousand shillings to “guide” you back to most of the crags. This is usually very helpful and appreciated by the local community. Parking and access to all other sites in Uganda is free. I sometimes offer a small gift if I am crossing someone’s land. For the very rural areas, folks sometimes ask for salt and I find a bag of salt to be an excellent gift. You can get bags of salt in local markets for around 700 UGX. As these communities cook communally, salt gets naturally shared amongst everyone. The same goes for other foodstuffs like rice, flour, and beans. I have also given t-shirts out as gifts, but have seen people argue over those. I once gave a curtain that I no longer needed from my house. That created a bit of a problem as one very old woman just took it and wrapped herself in it. The other old woman immediately pleaded with me for more curtains… Stick with instantly shareable gifts like mentioned above. I always pay something if I park my car on someone’s land. If they “mess” with my vehicle, then I do not pay. Most people have very few problems in Uganda, but close your windows, doors, and backpacks or people are likely to dig through your things looking for things you can share with them.

Hiring Hiking Guides

I strongly recommend that you hire guides almost anytime you walk more than a couple hundred meters from your car outside of a town. If you are in a UWA park, finding a trained guide is as simple as asking any park employee. However as this guide focuses on “outside the park adventures”, the following advice applies to the rest of the country. Here are some basic principles to follow.

Everyone might say they are a “guide”. It can be really hard to tell who knows what they are doing and who does not. Use a reputable local contact to help you find a guide whenever possible. I frequently pull into local schools or monasteries. Ask for the father or headmaster. Explain your plans and ask for their help. This usually works. Then, test your guide with some non-leading questions and test their English before agreeing to anything. If there isn’t a school or monastery in sight, then drive as close as possible to the mountain or crag, just start walking in and find a guide along the way. I have found some of my best guides like this, as the people you run into on the path are very local and usually living or studying very nearby. Avoid trying to hire a guide in town centers. It can create quite a commotion and attract the wrong sort of people. Idle and available guides, often consuming alcohol at all times of the day are to be avoided for obvious reasons. Best to pick someone out in their field early “digging” or otherwise occupied. The payment they are likely to get from you is enough to motivate them to put other projects on hold for a day.
Be very clear with your guide. Make sure to explain exactly what you plan to do and what you need the guide to help with. Agree on a set price beforehand. Do not pay in full until the trip is completed. In fact, try to hold back 50-100% of the payment until you are packed, finished and leaving. Paying for any services in full in Uganda ahead of time is often a bad idea. After paying in full, some guides may just run off. Also be aware that these guides may try to cut your trip short and still expect full payment. Even UWA guides have tried this with me. My guide on Kadam swore that terrible weather was coming and that we needed to turn around. My guide on Morungole tried to convince us that the peak was too far and that we couldn’t make it. Long story short, be skeptical of this sort of thing and make sure you know what you are doing. Cutting your trip short will save them time and effort. Of course, they will expect full payment in all cases, regardless of how far you’ve made it.
Set clear rules with your guides. Quite often guides will take any “down payment” and buy waragi, a locally made gin. Sometimes they will chew a mild narcotic called kat as it can be found on some of the mountains. You may have to be quite vigilant with your guides to make sure they don’t end up drunk and/or mildly high. Also, it regularly happens that guides and porters will open your bags and go through your things on these hikes. Perhaps set a clear rule for them to leave your bags closed. It has happened to me on several occasions that guides/porters will consume some of the food/water in the pack they are carrying without asking permission. As frustrating as this might be for you, they don’t consider this inappropriate. Keep all your key valuables with you in your own pack. Remember outside UWA parks these “guides” lack the training and supervision of the somewhat more professional guiding services available inside parks.
Plan on “taking care” of your guides. Most of the people you’ll find in these villages have very few possessions. So, plan on taking some food and water for them. They will not want to eat most things that you do, so get them some local food or ask them to bring their own. They will also not carry water, so plan for that. They usually drink about half as much as me. Finally, if your trip is overnight, you will need to carry everything your guide will need, so tent, sleeping bag, plate, cup, etc. Groups sometimes forget this and end up uncomfortably sharing food, utensils, tents, etc with their guides, or worse they have them sleep outside or send them down in the dark.

Misconceptions, Misunderstandings, and Perspective

Many local people will think you are rich. To them, you probably are. They may assume you are prospecting for gold, harvesting precious gems, or have other economic interests in their mountains and rocks, so they may ask again and again exactly where you are going and why. I think most of this curiosity comes from money concerns. If you use profession photographic equipment, they may assume you are making a profit from the photos somehow. “Muzungus carry gold in their boots” is a quote I’ve heard more than once. I have also come to understand Ugandans as a more communal people than I’ve ever seen. Land is family land and belongs to many people. You’ll find this out if you ever try to buy any. You may agree on a price to camp on someone’s land only to have a relative show up later and start the negotiations from the beginning. These issues can be complicated. Just be friendly, patient, and open-minded. Food is also shared. If you have surplus of pretty much anything, some local will want you to share it. There is evidence of this everywhere. For example in cases of theft, Ugandans very rarely steal everything. They may take your extra, but leave some behind. See, communal. Sharing is the Ugandan way.

As you can imagine this leads to misunderstandings that can sometimes be tense. I think many Ugandans struggle to understand why muzungus won’t share and many muzungus struggle to understand why Ugandans seem almost entitled to some of your money. It can also be very uncomfortable during packing and unpacking. Many local Ugandans will gather around and stare at you and all your stuff. Anything left lying out will likely get picked up. After all, if you left it out, you don’t want it anymore, right? My advice is to lock your things away, and if you can’t, keep things out of sight as much as, like inside a closed pack. Even cover your car windows if you can so people cannot see what is inside. Leaving gear strewn about is a sure way to lose a trinket or two. This is just good advice anywhere, but especially in Uganda.

Food in Uganda

Local food is probably the only option in many of the rural areas where you might climb. It usually consists of rice, posho, chapatti, cassava, sweet potato, Irish potatoes, greens, avocado, some tomato dishes and meat. Meat can be any common type like chicken, beef, goat, pork, or fish. Meat is usually prepared in a stew and served with rice or posho. It can also be grilled or smoked.

Finding and eating in a local restaurant is extremely easy, fast, and very cheap but very different to a cosmopolitan dining experience. First of all, finding one is very easy. They are near any town center and usually just have a small dining room and veranda. Look for steaming pots. People sit communally, sharing the tables and condiments, usually just salt and maybe chili flakes. Forget using a menu of any kind because it is too slow, too confusing, and not part of Ugandan dining culture. Rather, just ask, “Is the food there”? Restaurants in Uganda do not serve food all day, though dining hours are very flexible. If the food is ready, the response will be “it is there”. Follow up by asking what food is there and then you will get the list of what they have that day (see above). Sometimes the food is bubbling in pots right there or just outside, so just ask to see it if you wish. Stick with what is immediately available, hot and fresh as waiting/ordering may take hours and Ugandans often fail to communicate that clearly. For example, you might wait an hour for a dish just to be told it is not there. Once you order, it will usually come very fast, within a couple minutes and if it doesn’t, there is usually a problem. Prices vary from place to place and range from 1500 UGX for basic beans and chapatti (kikomando) to 8000 USX for a large meal with meat, greens, several types of starch, etc. I usually average 4-5k UGX per meal whilst in the “village” (rural areas). I find eating local in Uganda to be fantastic. The food is hot, fresh, and filling. Variety is very limited, though, and you may really start to miss your comfort foods after awhile. Mix it up by shopping and cooking or hitting one of the larger cities, some of which may have alternative cuisines.

Soft drinks are available nearly everywhere and cost 1500-2500 UGX. Beers cost about 3000 UGX outside of the big cities. Expat bars in Kampala or other cites may charge double for food and drinks.

If you are in Kampala, you can get all kinds of international cuisine, though the quality is not stellar and the prices are a bit high. Outside of Kampala, some cities may have a café or two and maybe Indian food. If you are lucky, you might find Ethiopian food in one place or another. There are lots of ethnic Indians and Ethiopians in Uganda and they have brought their excellent food with them. Cities like Gulu, Fort Portal, Kasese, Mbale, Kbale, Entebbe, Lira, Jinja, Mbarara, and Masaka are probably big enough to have a café, Indian place, and/or pizza available. Outside these cities, only the expensive lodges will serve international dishes. So, outside the large cities and lodges, you’ll have to “go local”.

Dangers

As of 2017, Uganda is an extremely safe country. I have only been chased off a crag once. That’s it. I think driving/road accidents are probably the biggest threat. Lots of folks get hurt on boda bodas (motorcycle taxis) and that is one of the riskiest things you can really do in the country. It is not recommended to take bodas at night. Theft is common, but it is usually petty theft and rarely violent. Watch out for drunkards. They are more aggressive and may pick a fight or cause other harm, but not more so than in other countries.

Malaria tends to hit everyone that has been in the country long enough, though some are here for years before getting it the first time. Typhoid also tends to hit everyone here for a while. I got vaccinated and still got it eventually. Traveler’s diarrhea and other food poisoning are common. Everyone that gets in the water much, goes sailing, rafting or kayaking gets bilharzia eventually and we have just learned to accept that can take the necessary treatment a couple times a year.

Some of the routes have been climbed so rarely that large, loose rocks still pose risks. Other than that, climbers often see snakes, but I don’t know of anyone who has been bitten. Bees are quite common in some crags, so if you come across a hive, just try to keep your head and gently move past them or out of their way. Easier said than done…

Accommodation

Like with eating, adjusting to local standards can make your trip much more convenient, cheaper and more of an adventure. Rooms in Ugandan guesthouses usually run from 10k to 30k per night. Paying 30-40k should get you a self-contained room and maybe even hot water. Paying closer to 10k will get you a very basic room, probably lacking a chair or table and bathroom. The cheapest rooms will have cold, bucket showers and shared pit latrine toilets. Local guesthouses are easy to find and are near town centers. All rooms should have a bed, pillow, sheets and a mosquito net. If you tend to be cold blooded, ask for an extra blanket. Nicer guesthouses will have some furniture, inside the compound parking, a basic garden and maybe a swimming pool.

Very nice lodges exist near the larger towns and national parks. You can get rooms for 50-500+ USD per night and these places are great!

Camping is allowed in loads of places as well. If you are on a very tight budget and/or want to sleep right at the crag, take your tent. Locals will usually let you camp right on their land for free or just a few thousand shillings. I have often done this. If you are worried about security, parking and camping within the grounds of a school or church might be safer. In that case, there is usually a night guard and you should pay something or leave a small donation. Lots of proper campsites exist too, usually near the main attractions and parks. Camping at a proper campsite is usually more expensive than local guesthouses because this is a tourist/muzungu activity and therefore prices are higher. Such camping usually includes access to showers, sometimes even hot ones, communal toilets and may include tea/coffee and a light breakfast.

Note on Transportation

All of these climbs can be reached through a combination of public transport and boda boda hire (motorcycle taxis). However, most climbers in Uganda have cars or ride with friends. It’s hard to do much climbing in Uganda if you don’t have a car or stay very near to the crag.

Driving in Uganda Any four-wheel drive can get you all around Uganda. The main roads rarely wash out. Road construction is ongoing and may slow you down. Potholes will cause significant wear and tear on your car. During rainy season, some village roads are likely to be impassible. Large, Land Cruiser or Defender type vehicles are the best, but small SUVs like Rav4s also do great.

There is wide disparity in the quality of fuel available at a hodge podge of petrol stations. Best advice is to always fill up at one of the very well known stations like Shell or Total, otherwise your car might run a bit funny. All the major towns have a major petrol station. If you are in a very rural area, you might have no other choice but to fill up locally. If you are very worried about this, take a jerry can of fuel with you, though the major towns are all close enough together that this really isn’t necessary.

Google Maps and other interactive online maps cover the country, but are quite inaccurate sometimes so use them with caution. Asking for directions can be hard because it is common for Ugandans to always answer when asked, even if they have no idea what you are asking. Just ask several people to see this in action, as they are likely to point you in totally different directions. The boda boda drivers tend to know their way around the best, so just ask one to show you the way and follow the boda in your car. That can work if their verbal instructions are difficult to understand.

Car Rental You can get rental cars from the airport in Entebbe. Tour companies also sometimes rent. Also, lots of Ugandans rent out their cars informally. For example, my mechanic rents a variety of cars for 50-100k per day. Just ask around to find the option you want. Even asking a taxi or Uber driver from the airport will likely lead you to a cousin or uncle that has a car for rent. These will be cheaper than the international car hire agencies, but may lack maintenance, support, and the professionalism as well.

Public and other Transport There is a system of buses and matatus (taxi) that cover nearly all the roads in Uganda. These are quite cheap and getting information is as simple as asking around in any town center. They are usually a bit uncomfortable, slow, crowded and very dusty. A ride from Kampala to Moroto might take you 12-15 hours on a bus while the same car ride takes around nine hours. I have almost always moved around Uganda by car. Once off the bus/taxi, people use boda bodas (motorcycle taxi) for shorter trips. They are fast, fun and cheap, but dangerous. Be ready to tell your boda driver puli puli if they are going too fast. Some of these guys seem to have no fear! Uber works throughout Kampala and exists in some of the large cities. If you need a ride, just ask around a bit. I often ask a guesthouse guard (askari) to help me find a reliable ride.

Electricity

Power goes out almost daily in the large cities, is regularly out in the smaller cities and some towns and villages still have no power except a few solar lights and batteries. So, carry a solar light, head torch, extra batteries, and a power bank for your phone, etc. Always keep a head torch near you at night. Keep batteries fully charged or nearly so. So if the power is “there”, plug in. Uganda has the same plug as the UK, so adaptors are really easy to find. Definitely bring a USB adaptor for a car as that is a handy way to charge a phone should all your other options run out.

The Best Advice…

Probably the most useful piece of advice I can give is to never rush conversations with Ugandans. It gets their backs up. They become apprehensive and seem to assume you either don’t respect them or are up to no good. I try to talk to Ugandans until they seem bored with me, which doesn’t take long. Small talk goes a long way. I have been “detained” a couple times in Uganda by police and or park rangers. In all cases, after fully hearing out what they had to say, making small talk and having a few laughs, I made new friends and walked away either for free or for a small fine paid for whatever perceived infraction I had committed. This can be annoying, but keep in mind that many places in Uganda see very few outside visitors. Your visit is often quite interesting and exciting for the locals, so do yourself and them a favor by spending a few minutes chatting. I’ve done this all over the country and it has always made things go more smoothly.

ViewRanger, theCrag.com, GPS, Google Earth and Navigation for the Hikes and Climbs

There are free downloads of .gpx files for all the hikes and climbs in this book. For hiking routes, go to the ViewRanger website, search in Uganda under the hike name and download the tracks to your phone, gps or computer. You can load and follow these tracks using a number of free smartphone apps like ViewRanger or OSMand. For the climbing crags, you can download the navigation files from theCrag.com. Once on that website, go to Uganda and simply select the crag you want. On the crag’s map, click the download button and you’ll find options for either .gpx files or .kml file downloads. Again, the .gpx files can be loaded on your phone using ViewRanger or OSMand or a similar smartphone app. The .kml files are compatible with Google Earth.

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access issues

Access is freely granted almost everywhere by a warm local welcome. Most Ugandans are extremely poor by comparison to most travelers, so they might expect climbers to share or give something. Climbers are not obliged to give anything in most cases, but giving a little something small can go a long way.

Rather than giving handouts, I look for every opportunity to pay Ugandans for useful goods and services. That might be paying a guide or porter, or hiring someone to look after my car. Additionally, I agree to give donations to schools and churches if I camp on their property. I regularly give 2-5k UGX for parking on someone's land. I also buy local produce, stay in local guest houses, and eat locally. I try to always mention that I am climbing or hiking and also try to thank everyone for welcoming me into their community. Through this, I hope to give positively to these communities and build a positive impression of climbers and hikers in all these communities. I hope this will not only boost the local economy, but help pave the way for more adventurers to come and explore this amazing country.

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approach

Most people get to Uganda by plane. Entebbe International Airport is a 1-4 hour drive depending on traffic. Outside Kampala, traffic times are much more predictable.

You can also easily get to Uganda by bus. Daily buses come in from Rwanda via Kigali or Kenya via Nairobi.

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ethic

Climbing is mostly unknown in Uganda. Please do climbers a favor and build a positive impression in the country through exemplary behavior and conscientious contributions to the communities you visit.

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history

Climbing came to Uganda with the British who ruled it as a protectorate until 1962. The first climbing guide was published in that year. A supplement to the first guide was published in 1963. In 1991 an updated climbing guide was reprinted, but contained very few new routes/crags.

The Idi Amin years saw climbing and mountaineering activities cease. The Bush War prevented the same in the 1980s. The LRA War and general banditry in Northern Uganda and Karamoja prevented climbing and mountain exploration well beyond 2000, however climbing and exploring was common in Central, East, and West during the 90s and beyond. It was not until 2013 that climbing and mountain exploration began to take place all over Uganda, including West Nile, Acholiland, and Karamoja and these regions are now ripe for further exploration. This book only scratches the surface of this amazing country.

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Summary:

Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 0.292047, 32.625305

summary

The only outdoor rock climbing within Kampala!

description

This crag has 20+ chain belays, and more routes are continuing to be developed by The Mountain Club of Uganda (MCU). Most routes are bolted for single pitch sport climbing, although a few are top-rope only. Both crag faces get afternoon shade, and climbing is great from about 2:30 pm to sunset at around 7 pm, which is consistent year-round in Uganda. On cloudy days, the rock stays cool enough that climbers can climb from sunrise to sunset.

MCU regularly runs climbing events at the quarry, where club equipment is available for rent to members who don't have their own gear. Check www.mcu.ug for a calendar of events.

access issues

This crag is closed until further notice.

Climbing here is only permitted to Mountain Club of Uganda members. Membership details at mcu.ug. It is around 15 USD per year to join and the club reinvests that money in bolting and retrofitting crags so please join up! Consider donating above the membership fees as well. Better yet, offer to help out by cleaning crags, bolting, running trips or carry some much needed club gear into your suitcase on your next flight to UG. Getting gear into the country is tricky and expensive, so bring everything you might need with you.

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approach

To get to the parking area, take Kalungi Road to Kawagga Close and park at the Model House. Here is the pin to the parking area: https://goo.gl/maps/H9cmp5bEvgw

where to stay

As this crag is in Kampala, any accommodation in the city will work, but the closest neighborhoods are Muyenga, Makindye, Kabalagala and Bugolobi.

Camping is not allowed at this site.

ethic

The Mountain Club of Uganda is responsible for bolting at the quarry. Only the MCU committee can approve bolting. The landowner does not permit any other bolting. Contact www.mcu.ug for more details.

history

Pierre Gay Perret first noticed this crag whilst jogging. After many visits, he noticed the quarrying had stopped. After asking around a bit, the landowner was found and access was first granted to the Mountain Club of Uganda in November 2016. Cleaning and bolting yielded the first complete routes by January 2017.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 0.290913, 32.625877

summary

following the temporary closing of the first Quarry, MCU found a new place to climb.

description

This crag has 10+ chain belays, and more routes are continuing to be developed by The Mountain Club of Uganda (MCU). Most routes are bolted for single pitch sport climbing, although a few are top-rope only. Both crag faces get afternoon shade, and climbing is great from about 2:30 pm to sunset at around 7 pm, which is consistent year-round in Uganda. On cloudy days, the rock stays cool enough that climbers can climb from sunrise to sunset.

MCU regularly runs climbing events at the quarry, where club equipment is available for rent to members who don't have their own gear. Check www.mcu.ug for a calendar of events.

access issues

Climbing here is only permitted to Mountain Club of Uganda members and Anjuman-E-Burhani Masjid members (if accompagnied by a MCU members). Membership details at mcu.ug. It is around 15 USD per year to join and the club reinvests that money in bolting and retrofitting crags so please join up! Consider donating above the membership fees as well. Better yet, offer to help out by cleaning crags, bolting, running trips or carry some much needed club gear into your suitcase on your next flight to UG. Getting gear into the country is tricky and expensive, so bring everything you might need with you.

This is the only indoor climbing in UG as of March 2018. The wall was built around 2011 and was expanded in 2015.

There have been many other attempts by the MCU and others to expand indoor climbing in Kampala. There is a planned gym for Rubaga, which is stalled, another halted gym in Makindye and several other international schools have tried to put a gym in place. Sadly the money and/or expertise has been lacking and none of those projects have come to fruition leaving ISU with the only indoor climbing in Uganda.

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Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 0.537579, 32.726270

summary

Insita is Uganda's largest, best, and oldest sport crag.

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description

This is a great place for beginning climbers and those aiming to up their game as well. There are about 20 bolted sport routes with grades from 12-23 and some tough bouldering as well. If you are looking for established 25s or harder, Insita, and Uganda for that matter, is not the place for you unless you'd like to pioneer your own lines. In that case, we need you! The Mountain Club of Uganda organizes monthly trips to Insita and on those days, this crag can be quite full. Most days you'll have this crag all to your self.

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access issues

Free for everyone. Insita Luwazi is on community land. Climbers have always had a warm welcome. We pay 3000 Uganda Shillings to park at a nearby house. There is some occasional conflict in the community about who should get those shillings. Up to now, this has not affected the climbers. Call Ishma at: 0773 128 861 and tell him you are coming or just show up. He will let you park in front of his house and can show you around the crag if needed. Ishma maintains the trail to Insita and can clean/thrash the belay area if needed. You can also buy local food and produce from Ishma if you choose. Climbing at camping at Insita Luwazi is free.

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approach

Leave Kampala via the Gayaza road. At Kalagi, turn left. Shortly outside of the town, turn left again at the Y intersection. Then, upon reaching the village of Kijjo, turn left again. This road will take you directly to Ishma's house. Find the parking at Ishma's house here: https://goo.gl/maps/MLKz4ry9fMQ2

Note: more than a few people have attempted to use Google Maps to navigate directly to Insita/Luwazi. As they navigate to the dome of rock itself, Google takes them to the wrong road on the wrong side of the rock and they end up either very lost or hiking through awful bush to get to the rock. A better approach is to set your navigation to Ishma's house, turn off the main road exactly at Kalagi, and then follow the directions above.

From the parking area at Ishma's, hike behind his house, through his field and straight for the granite dome. You'll see Elie's Boulder along the way. Hike up and over the dome trending left and you'll see the belays bolted on the far side. The easiest hike down is just left of the bolted routes, but you can get down on the far right as well. Many climbers choose to rap down to the belay area and as the routes are all single pitch and 13m high or less, even a shortish rope is long enough reach the bottom on a short rappel.

Take an 80m rope if you want to try all the routes. If you don't have an 80m, take a 70m or 60m, which are long enough for a many of the routes. If your rope is too short, belay from top but take sunscreen as the top of the rock and upper sections above the jungle can be incredibly hot. The belay area and first moves are shaded all day. The entire area is gorgeous jungle. Bird life is outstanding.

You'll find a very prominent prayer crack on the east side. Locals have told me that God created all the earth including Kkungu Rock and that God gave demigods certain powers. They believe Kkungu is a demigod with wide ranging powers. Local devotion to Kkungu has lasted over four centuries, long before Christians arrived. You'll see more evidence here of a thriving indigenous religion than maybe anywhere else in Uganda, but it is mixed with Christian influences as well.

The entire area is considered sacred. You see many worshippers most afternoons. Offerings to Kkungu of coffee, coins and cowrie shells are common. The area is marked out with very many spears meant to demonstrate the god’s power.

Please be respectful when moving around the area. Worshippers are very friendly, curious and keen to climb with you. Take extra gear if you can and invite locals to join in the climbing!

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access issues

There is a warm, friendly and curious local community. Previous climbers have negotiated to pay a 5k parking fee to the rock’s security man, Omar. Please be respectful and help preserve the nice relationship. Religious ceremonies take place at the rock on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays. Climbers in small groups have been allowed to climb on these days, but they are best avoided. Permission for Monday, Wednesday, and Friday climbs have been granted by the local community, but small, quiet, respectful groups of climbers have never been turned away, regardless of the day. Chances are, you've never seen a site like this!

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approach

Head north out of Kampala on Bombo Road, which is also the Masindi or Gulu Highway. This road will take you to the town of Matugga. Go through Matugga staying on the Masindi Highway. About 2.5km after Matugga, you will see a left turn heading sharply downhill on a rough murram road. Take this turn and proceed about 2km, then turn right. This road will lead you into a small village with a couple shops. Take the right turn at the village. SK Primary School should appear almost immediately on your left.

Drive past the SK Primary School. From there, the road quickly becomes a dead end. Park conscientiously on the side of the road. The rock is just in front of you. Approach time is less than one minute from the parking area.

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where to stay

Bush camping nearby is possible. Permission to camp on top the rock has been granted, but groups haven't tried this yet. There is also a guest house in Kkungu with gated parking, grassy patches for tents and some rooms. However, climbers usually just stay in Kampala.

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ethic

Please be respectful of the local religious ceremonies. Please bolt at a minimum. To this point, we have only used stainless steel expansion bolts which should last for several generations. If you bolt, please only use top quality equipment.

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history

When exactly this rock was first climbed is not known. In 1961, Kkungu was climbed by Andrew Stuart to aid local police in the apprehension of an armed witch doctor for which he became the only non-policeman to win the Colonial Police Medal.

Use the main parking area for the lodge and follow the signs to “Top of the Rock”. Approach from parking to crag is less than five minutes.

where to stay

There are a number of guest houses in Tororo. Mbale is about an hour away by car and Kampala is about four hours away. You could certainly just rock up and camp nearby in someone's garden, with permission, of course.

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ethic

After asking around, permission to bolt was easily granted. The local community seemed very interested in developing the cave and encouraging more climbers/visitors. Tororo Rock itself is used by Airtel, so you are likely to encounter a few of their employees from time to time. It would be essential to negotiate free access for climbers in exchange for bolting/developing the site.

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history

This cave has been a known potential climb site for a number of years. Groups have either lacked the time, tools, or boulder pads to actually climb it. It is not recorded in the previous climbing guides or anywhere else online.

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Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 0.540036, 34.119540

description

This place is full of granite boulders as this part of Uganda is rich of. This is the biggest we discovered with Nagongera at the moment. The place is usually very sunny and there is almost no place to get a descent shade. The potential is huge, the level is hard so more for advanced climbers. Bring your crash pad or home made mattress since the bottom of the boulders is often rocky.

approach

Chema is a small crag located amongst beautiful farms, friendly people and virgin rock. The rock quality is poorer, which is probably why it hasn't been climbed or developed further. If you don't want to lead climb, you can scramble to access the belay chains and setup top-ropes on all the routes except Friends Remain Friends, which requires a rap in to setup.

There are seven bolted routes for top rope, four of which are bolted for lead climbing. The six lead climbs are only 10m, one top rope climb is 25m. Grades range from 17-25. Rock is conglomerate, loose and poor quality. View is amazing. No toilets or showers in this bush, but locals have pit latrines you can use. Trad climbing in this area does not look possible as rocks are mostly slab and quality is generally poor for pro.

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access issues

Park at the general store in Chema run by Colin. Access is free. Parking is 3k per car. Consider hiring someone at the general store to guide you back to the crag for another 2k. It is a bit hard to find your way through the maze of local farms and houses and paying a few shillings for parking and guidance on the approach can go a long way with in positive relations with the local community.

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approach

Head out of Sipi Falls. You’ll pass Chebonet and then arrive at the small town of Chema just less than ten minutes from Sipi's center. Park on the left at the general store operated by Colin: 0758 985 619.

1.35916667, 34.38916667 Colin’s shop sells bread, some produce, and water as well as other food/snacks climbers might find useful. If you want to hire a guide contact Backson 0705 528 981 or Peter: 0779 971 682. Free access for climbers to the rock has been promised by both Peter and Backson in cooperation with Sipi River Lodge (unofficial). Some small donation to the local community would be appreciated, but don’t feel obligated. Backson and Peter run a 83 meter abseil nearby for about 50 USD, but they are also climbers and they know the area and can help with local access should anyone try to prevent you from climbing. Hike down into the valley from the road past the coffee factory, which smells fantastic, and down the to the falls. Head right to the rock once you reach the falls. Colin or one of the guides can show you the way. In total, the hike from your car to the crag is about 15 mins or so. Depending on the trail you take, the last 100m is a very steep scramble down to the rock.

The drive between Namalu and Nakapiripirit takes you quite close to some nice looking rock. A very short walk from the road will let you put your hands on the rock. We have tested numerous rocks along this road and always opted to move on after little climbing because the rock is too brittle to climb on. Trusting protection in such rock is unlikely and flakes and jugs will come up right in your hand.

Consider hiking Mt. Kadam while here. It is a great hike and a nice alternative to the dodgy rock climbing in the area.

Alekilek can be seen from the Iriri trading center. You can drive up quite near to the rock and negotiate parking and hire a guide from anywhere near this rock.

Use the same parking areas as for Kilibi. Simply hike up towards the rocks and pick your line. Please explore and post.

Near the village of Akwang in the Paimol sub-area of Agago District, there is great climbing potential. We only climbed Kilibi Rock. (see Deep in the Village and Normal Route) A drive around the area to/from Kalongo will yield other impressive rocks and possible climbs. Mt. Kokil is next to Kilibi and looks hikeable. There may be a number of quality lines there and in the adjacent rocks . This area is very near the climbs of Amiel and Mt. Oret. About an hour’s drive will get you to Rwot and Loyoroit.

The map shows the Kilibi inside the shape in the west. The shape in the east shows the parking and the line on the map links the parking and the rock showing the approximate hike in.

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access issues

Free and unrestricted. This area sees very little interaction with the outside world. It is like going back in time! People are very friendly. They ask for money. We usually give a small give gift like a bag of salt or rice.

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approach

Drive through Paimol and then through Akwang. Just a couple hundred meters after Akwang, there is a easily missed left turn just before a bridge. You’ll need a 4WD because this turn goes down into a ditch and up to a very poor road. Follow that road as far as you can past the huts, trending to the right to Joseph’s house (3.11523, 33.42742). You’ll be about 200m off the main Akwang road when you park. You’ll be unable to see Kilibi from here, but tell locals you want Kilibi and they will all point you in the right direction. A couple hundred meters past the parking at Joseph’s you’ll see Kilibi.

If unsure, you can ask around for Joseph and should ask permission to park there. He's a very nice/friendly guy.

Descriptions of the Great Gully Route can be found in the 1962/63 and 1991 guidebooks. As I haven't climbed this route, only due to the overgrowth of the line, I won't include many details here. Contact me if you'd like the old descriptions. You may also be able to find descriptions online through mcu.ug.

This should be done during dry season, preferably towards the end when bush is at its yearly minimum.

Description by L. Hodgkinson

There is a guest house in Kaabong or camp nearby, with local permission, of course.

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ethic

This community seems to have encountered very little outside visitors. Be very careful not to alarm or quarrel with the locals. Naita and Yorun is their world. Be on your best behavior as very little is known about this community.

I took photos of local children and an aerial view into the manyatta from the top of Naita. I showed these photos to many local people who were nothing short of amazed.

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history

First Ascent by U Pitsche and M Battani July 16th 2017

On the Geology: These (Naita and the row of connected rocks) appear to be plutons (plutonic stocks or diapirs of some sort to be more precise), which are igneous intrusions. Had they fully extruded through the ground from magmatic activity then they would have been volcanic, but these stocks form from magma welling up and cooling beneath the surface and their linkage may be expressed along what are called dikes which have left their expression as the long linear boulder remains between the stocks and which form from cooled magmas forming vertical walls along fractures. Erosion has brought the stocks to their current prominence (looks to be granite), which makes for great climbing. Volcanic rocks tend to not be very good for climbing since they tend to weather quickly into clay mostly, whereas granite is a crystalline matrix, which has lots of the durable mineral quartz. For more information you can Google plutons, plutonic diapers, and batholiths, which are related and are world known for great rock climbing. –Matt McCullough Geologist

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Summary:

From the school, the approach is about 20-30 mins uphill along village trails. Many locals are keen to show you the way and even climb or hike with you.

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where to stay

Arua is about an hour away. Otherwise, camping at the school is possible. If you pay the headmaster a few shillings, he will let you pitch a tent on the school's grounds.

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ethic

Mt. Wati has only been rock climbed once. Hikers from Arua visit here and summit at least a few times per year. The local community will certainly be happy to see you if you give out some gifts or cash. This isn't necessary and not particularly helpful to future climbers as it sets a bad precedent. However, if you employ any guide or porter, or camp on someone's land, you should expect to negotiate and pay a fair price.

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history

No known history of climbers on this rock. It is not mentioned in any of the previous guidebooks or anywhere online.

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description

The sector is a cliff of about 12-15m high and about 50m wide. It is not cleaned (the middle part has loose rocks while the right side is more clean) nor bolted, and most of the cliff is above a waterhole. It used to be part of the current quarry located next to the cliff. It seems to have nice potential for routes of pretty various grades. The surrounding area though not much explored could be potentially suitable for more sport climbing sectors or bouldering.

approach

The cliff is located at the foot of Ngetta rock. From Lira town take the direction of Kitgum, then branch on the right side few kilometers after town, at the petrol station, to go to Ngetta rock. You can park your car either at the quarry wether continue following road/footpath to reach the top of the cliff.

descent notes

Be aware that the place has no anchor on top (if successfully tested, a car's hook can be used as such). Moreover, due to the presence of water (which is there likely most of the year), belaying from the ground is not possible for the central part of the cliff. Consequently you'll need to think about your escape plan beforehand in case you'd fail to reach the top (for instance, belaying from the top and considering a little swim as an escape plan, or ascending the rope, etc).

history

The sector has no known history of climbing. Legal or more formal access to it would need further thinking for bolting/cleaning the rock, but it fairly seems it would be granted. MCU's members can get in touch with Rachel Amai (0785699205) or Steven Amai (0772326949) to be showed around and eventually to help with establishing more formal access to the sector.

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -6.342246, 35.144435

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -2.691545, 36.703530

description

Longido lies just L of the main Nairobi-Arusha road, 25 km. S of the Namanga border post. It is a steep-sided hill, about 2600m. high, with bush on its lower slopes and forest higher up. There are 2 summits; the higher E top is heavily forested on all sides. The western has numerous crags; the biggest of these is almost 300m. high and faces the main road. Although Longido is in Tanzania the problems in getting there are slight. No special currency arrangements need be made and the border crossing is relatively straightforward. So far little climbing has been done on the cliffs and there appears to be potential for some fairly hard long climbs. (by Andrew Wielochowski)

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approach

25 km. S of Namanga the W face of Longido dominates the road. A radio station and reflector on the ridge above mark the access route to the central and S sections. A steep tarmac road leads from the main road up to the radio station in 2 km. There is a watchman here. Above this a clear rough path ascends to the reflector. 100m. below this traverse L and cross a stream bedtogain a ridge which soon gives easy access through shady forest to foot of the face. Crossing 2 further streams leads to a similar ridge rising to centre of the cliff. For the N end it is best to walk up game and cattle trails starting NW of the h ill. The walk up on any side takes about 4 h. Bivouacs below thecliffsareplentiful andpleasant, but there is no guarantee of water though a few seasonal streams do exist in the forest belt. It is possible to leave vehicles at the radio station. Garage facilities available in Namanga on the Kenyan side. Taking a vehicle across the border can be diffi - cult and a Tanzanian road tax of 1000 TSh must be paid (valid for 3 months). It is just as easy to leave a vehicle at Namanga and continue by matatu to Longido. The main W-facing cliff is cut by a prominent L to R diagonal fault. R. 114follows the most prominent chimney line in centre of the R-hand half of this cliff. The upper section quits the main chimney line and traverses R below huge roofs to find a spectacular escape to the summit ridge. (by Andrew Wielochowski)

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summary

This is a completely undeveloped cliff face with potential for multiple sport and / or trad routes (multi-pitch). Rock quality is very good and approach from Mambo View Point Lodge fairly easy (20 minutes walk in). Cliff height looks to be about 300m and 500m from left to right.

description

The Usambara Mountains of northeastern Tanzania in tropical East Africa, comprise the easternmost ranges of the Eastern Arc Mountains. The ranges of approximately 90 kilometres (56 mi) long and about half that wide, are situated in the Lushoto District of the Tanga Region. They were formed nearly two million years ago by faulting and uplifting, and are composed of Precambrian metamorphic rocks. They are split into two sub-ranges; the West Usambaras being higher than the East Usambaras, which are nearer the coast and receive more rainfall.

Mambo View Point Eco Lodge is situated on a 1900m high cliff and has a breathtaking view over the African plains in the northern part of the Usambara mountains. This little paradise is close to the village of Mambo, where the residents still live without running water or electricity.

access issues

Undeveloped. Land access, climbing, bolting, etc would need to be agreed with the local community

approach

Either rap in from the top or take the well to the base.

where to stay

Mambo View Point Eco Lodge which sits on the top of this cliff

ethic

No precedent set. Ideal for multi-pitch trad or sport climbing

summary

This is a completely undeveloped area with potential for multiple sport and / or trad routes (multi-pitch). Rock quality is very good.

description

The Usambara Mountains of northeastern Tanzania in tropical East Africa, comprise the easternmost ranges of the Eastern Arc Mountains. The ranges of approximately 90 kilometres (56 mi) long and about half that wide, are situated in the Lushoto District of the Tanga Region. They were formed nearly two million years ago by faulting and uplifting, and are composed of Precambrian metamorphic rocks. They are split into two sub-ranges; the West Usambaras being higher than the East Usambaras, which are nearer the coast and receive more rainfall.

access issues

Undeveloped. Land access, climbing, bolting, etc would need to be agreed with the local community

approach

Rap in from the top

where to stay

Lushoto town or any number of the lodges in the area

ethic

No precedent set. Ideal for multi-pitch trad or sport climbing

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.520286, 33.808664

description

Musoma is a town 220 km from the city of Mwanza, which is home to an infinite number of granite rocks that do not exceed 50 m in height. therefore, bouldering, high bouldering and sport climbing predominate, in a smaller amount traditional climbing. Musoma borders the famous Lake Victoria and is 150 km from the Serengeti National Park. the area was first developed under the focus of the Climbing for a reason project, which achieved In addition to the opening of 15 sport climbing routes and 200 boulders, develop the first community of climbers in the country, which is made up of children from the Jipe Moyo Center orphanage.

access issues

Many of the sectors are close to villages and houses, so it is recommended to be respectful and friendly with people. There are also nearby plantations, so it is recommended to be careful when walking and putting the crashpad in the areas.

being a town that does not receive tourists, people are not used to seeing "white people" so they will always call you by muzungu which means white man, but it is not with bad intentions, in fact the only thing they will want from you it's your friendship

approach

Musoma can be accessed in various ways. you can fly directly to musoma, or you can take a direct bus from mwanza musoma that lasts approximately 4 hours, or go by car that takes 3 hours and that will help you a lot to move between the climbing areas since there are quite a few.

where to stay

There are many options to stay. Benny Lodge is one of the best options, the value is $20,000 shillings, 9 USD for a room for two people, very clean, hot shower and moderately modern and a very good location. There are also options near the lake in Playa Matvilla for 22 USD. and finally you can volunteer to teach climbing or yoga to the children of the orphanage jipe moyo center and sleep in the orphanage, for the latter you can contact climbing for a reason on instagram to organize volunteering.

ethic

be respectful of the neighbors, take care of the place and take care of the plantations that surround the rocks

history

Climbing for a reason is a non-profit organization that seeks to open climbing to underprivileged communities around the world that have rocks with great climbing potential. in this case they went to musoma to teach the children of the jipe moyo center orphanage, they taught them to climb their own rocks, and a climbing wall was built inside the center.

Summary:

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 15.979972, -23.999991

description

over 1000 boulders

Summary:

Bouldering, Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 14.929877, -24.387946

summary

20 sectors for sport climbing; ~ 1000 boulder problems

description

Handdrawn topos in Casa Marisa.

20 sectors, over 1000 boulder, over 80 sport climbs (german article)

2.500 boulders FB2-8B+, 160 sport climbs FR3-8c+ in 30 sectors, some multipitch.

Story of one of the main developers (in german).

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 17.051315, -25.183886

Summary:

All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 16.721379, -22.932944

summary

Possibly the only climbing wall in The Gambia!

description

A small bouldering wall as well as bolted holes and ropes for top roping on a large baobab tree.

See the website: https://gacbaobab.wordpress.com/ for more details including location and pictures

access issues

The wall is on the MRC Gambia site and so can only be accessed by staff or if accompanied by staff. Contact the MRC climbing community via the website (https://gacbaobab.wordpress.com/) if you are non MRC and wish to come and try out the best (only!?) climbing wall in The Gambia

history

Created by climbing enthusiasts at the MRC who wanted somewhere to climb whilst based in The Gambia for research. The wall and subsequently the baobab have slowly evolved over time.

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 7.792033, -1.184908

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 6.405688, -0.450518

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 5.759551, 0.060953

summary

Asubone is a newly found crag near the Volta lake.

description

Mostly (amazing) Bouldering for now. Working on bolting more routes

approach

Short, even some boulders in Town.

where to stay

You can aslo ask for Atchu (AKA. One Dollar) or Kwame form "Let

ethic

There is no charge for climbing. Greet the locals and stop by for a drink if you have the time. Take a bit more trash back home than you came with at best.

history

Dear friends and myself found this place in 2023. A man named Nathan had been there 10 years prior and bolted 5 routes (No saftey guarantee). The clibing comunity has since done a great job in checking out new lines and boulders, buying land for camping and even organizing the west african climbing festival in december.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 17.347218, -3.518101

description

Hand of Fatima Massif

Summary:

Lat / Long: 15.247145, -1.740313

description

Kaga Tondo

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 20.230033, -10.421499

Summary:

summary

There IS the third biggest monolithe on eart, Ben Amira. Two orhers have climbing routes, Aïcha and Addada. The base camp looks like a paradise, and there is 25 climbing routes, from 4b to 8a. Mostly slab bolted routes, you also have cracks and two trad routes. Somme informations on https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/mauritanie/

description

Amazing 500 meters high granit monolith into desert. There is two main summits, Ben Amira and Ben Aïcha. Rock could be adventurous, climbing is comitted...

access issues

Needs a permitt.

approach

Easy !!

where to stay

At the bottum.

ethic

Full bolted routes.

history

Only since 2020.

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -12.160359, 17.052704

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -9.675239, 15.616674

summary

Pedras Negras is one of the best climbing areas in the country and a very unique area worldwide. Most similar to Meteora, Greece with conglomerate sandstone/cobble towers rising above the jungle.

description

One of the few 'tourist' areas in Angola, Pedras Negras is also one of the best climbing areas in the country and a very unique area worldwide. Most similar to Meteora, Greece, these rock towers vary in height from 70m-200m, with a fairly solid conglomerate consisting of a sandstone matrix and a variety of cobble types. Like every area in Angola, you will probably be the only climber in the area (probably for the whole year!), but Pedras Negras is one of the few places where you will see other foreign tourists visiting. Best time to climb is in the dry season (Cacimbo), from May to September. During the wet season, the vegetation is extremely thick and thunderstorms are common.

Warning: Thunderstorms move in very fast from behind the towers, so be ready to retreat on short notice. Rain showers are usually pretty quick and we just waited them out most of the time. When walking off trail, be wary of snakes. Both Black Mamba and cobras. I have seen cobras and pythons, so it's a real concern. Make a lot of noise and carry a long stick to beat the grass well in front of your path. Baboons are common and we have found leopard prints among the towers. however, it is extremely unlikely that a leopard would attack a group of climbers. If you are traveling with a pet or kids, however, I would not let them wander off too far in this area. Hopefully that goes without saying, but just in case...

approach

Currently, the best route from Luanda is through Dondo. At this time (2023) the pavement is good from Maria Teresa, all the way to Capanda. The last 20 minutes of driving from Capanda to the turn to Pedras Negras are on terrible pavement. This route takes 4 1/2 to 5 hours from Luanda. At the turn off to Pedras Negras there is a sign over the road indicating the entrance to the area. Continue on the road until you see the towers on the left (North). You'll need to follow the road into the middle of the rocks to speak to the village administrator about climbing and also to find a place to camp (sometimes the administrator lets us set up camp in the school yard).

Other options for staying are at the hotel in the city of Cacuso, or at the lodge at the Calandula waterfall.

where to stay

Camp in the school yard.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

4 hours south of Luanda on a good road.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 0.811341, 6.936032

Summary:

Lat / Long: 0.206387, 6.610949

summary

A volcanic plug rising out of the jungle on the island of São Tomé.

Table of contents

1. Africa 24,567 routes in Region

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