South Africa Guide

Summary:

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Seasonality

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -3.257738, 24.691050

description

South Africa is simply a top world climbing destination.

From already world-renown Bouldering area Rocklands or Sport Mecca 'Waterval Boven', to epic trad Big Walling at Blouberg or Yellowwood Amphitheatre, passing through alpine adventures in the Drakensberg most styles are covered one way or the other, except maybe ice-climbing...

but that is only because of the generous climate, which ensures year-round outdoor climbing in most crags !

Add to that the comfort of huge areas close enough from town for a after-work pitch from Capetown... Table Mountain, or the huge potential for any adventurer to bush whack and find new unexplored cliffs hidden in remote areas... you will definitely find your little corner of paradise.

Finally the MCSA is the national association associated to UIAA that caters for mountaineering in general, and climbing in particular. They are fundamental to negociate and maintain access to lots of crags, since few are on public land in the country. Join them https://mcsa.org.za/.

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -23.773433, 29.146037

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -24.477653, 27.636469

description

The Mountain Club of South Africa partially owns the land at Kransberg. Access is limited to members and their guests.

Kransberg is a remote area with trad climbing (only). The routes are between 3 and 6 pitches long and provide excellent exposure in a natural setting. A large vulture colony is found immediately west of the climbing area.

Kransberg offers a number of good quality multipitch climbs of moderate to easy grades. Combined with an hour walk in and an easy, obvious descent, this makes for a friendly place to practise your multipitch skills before heading off to bigger, harder walls like Blouberg. That said, the climbs will keep you honest. On most climbs, expect to have to climb a few meters between gear placements, especially on the faces where you will encounter a few more blank rails than you may like. The popular routes are well enough protected though, so do not worry too much.

The MCSA have released a route guide for the area that is available on their website.

access issues

Access is restricted to MCSA members only. For the latest driving directions, access arrangements, and parking information, contact the MCSA Johannesburg section.

ethic

Bolting is not allowed. A number of large raptors have built nests in the vicinity of the route Swift Crag. If new routes are attempted, the raptors should not be disturbed. Also, please note that no climbing is allowed west of Auf Wiedersehen. This is due to research work being carried out on the vulture colonies in the area.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -24.500028, 27.857139

summary

Two good climbing areas, single pitch trad and deep water solo

description

Easy access, low commitment alternative to Kransberg. Walk in from Dassie camp to the main area takes 10 minutes. The site offers shaded climbing most of the day with a conveniently close permanent river and a series of shallow wading pools in a secluded and pristine environment. All climbing is traditional (trad) climbing currently. Further downstream there is some good potential for hard grade deepwater soloing

access issues

Arrangements must be made beforehand with the landowner: Details: Phone:+27 (0)79 872 0530 email: sharyn@oneononesafaris.com

approach

From Dassie Camp follow the hiking path up river for 10 to 15 minutes.

where to stay

Renosterpoort lodges or Syringa Sands game farm

ethic

No bolting permitted yet. This is a pristine wilderness area, please respect. do not litter do not pollute

history

Renosterpoort has been part of the Le Roux family for three generations. Nic Grech-Cumbo started climbing in the area in early 2020. The first official MCSA meet took place in October 2022.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -24.036324, 28.375337

summary

New developed sport climbing venue in the Waterberg

access issues

Climbing is free for overnight guests, day visitors can buy a day pass through the Lindani Office/Reception.

approach

Lindani is located just outside Vaalwater in Limpopo

A vehicle with high ground clearance is needed for the last 500m to the crag, otherwise enjoy the short walk-in.

where to stay

Lindani, MELKRIVIER ROAD, VAALWATER, 0530

INFO@LINDANI.CO.ZA

HTTP://LINDANI.CO.ZA

+27 (0)83 631 5579 / +27 (0)83 809 4291

history

6 routes developed in 2020 by Louis Breytenbach, first guide published together with Lindani

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -23.943729, 28.916246

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -24.051578, 29.040576

access issues

Please note that Thabaphaswa has changed ownership. There is no formal access to the crag as yet.

history

http://www.thabaphaswa.co.za/page/rock-climbing-and-abseiling

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -23.931559, 29.124983

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -24.197623, 28.658412

summary

Multipitch trad in an isolated setting.

description

Hanglip is situated at a point along the Waterberg range where its normally West-East configuration commences its curve North.

A characteristic of the rock in the area is that it consists of massive rough slabs, separated at intervals of 2 meters by horizontal weathered cracks.

The crags range in height from 200 - 300 meters.

access issues

Access should be arranged via the MCSA Johannesburg Section. Private parties will not be allowed.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -24.143776, 29.209581

description

Makapansgat has lain dormant on the climbing scene for the last 2 decades.

The place lies en route to Polokwane and is an ideal weekend trip, or a handy alternative if you’re rained off Blouberg. Its an all-trad venue with a super easy walk-in, very exposed, wild and beautiful camping, deep pools, high waterfalls and easy-to-access cragging. There is lots of new route potential.

access issues

However, access to Makapansgat has recently been granted based on the goodwill of the Limpopo Provincial Government following hard work by the MCSA JHB Section. Access is granted on the following conditions:

Only MCSA members and guests allowed. Each party must have at least one MCSA member.

Before visiting, phone: JT Mmako, Site Manager Makapan Valley World Heritage Site on 015 293 8443 to confirm your attendance. Please note: Neil Margetts has a copy of an agreement letter between the Limpopo Provincial Government and MCSA granting access. Contact Neil on:chairman@sancf.org.
No bolting allowed.
No littering, including cigarette stompies.
No unnecessary damage to plants.
No animals, including dogs.

approach

It’s a 10 to 15 minutes walk to the base of the climbs from the campsite, with no path. From the parking walk North West up to a shallow neck, then walk North past a tall old Aloe and down through scrubby thorn trees until you run out of ground at the cliffs.

where to stay

The campsite is about 10 to 15 minutes walk from where cars are parked. Camping is right on the lip of the cliffs, offering many superb spots.

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -23.075045, 28.995822

summary

Big wall climbing in South Africa, up to 350m

description

Most information below extracted from "Blouberg, a climber's guide to Limpopo Big Walling, South Africa" 6th Ed from 2011 by Hector Pringle.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -24.103457, 29.753947

summary

Multi-pitch trad climbing in a remote rural setting in the Strydpoort Mountains.

description

Quartzite crags on the Mphogodiba River, just north of the Bewaarskloof Nature Reserve.

access issues

Access not formalized. Best to pick up a car guard in the village.

approach

Approach is from the north from the Boyne-Chueniespoort road.

where to stay

Haenertsburg/Polokwane

ethic

Traditional climbing.

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -24.008532, 30.009936

description

The Mohlapitse Valley consists of a number of crags along the Mohlapitse River. The Mohlapitse flows south into the Wolkberg Wilderness Area. The rock varies from high quality sandstone and quartzite, with crags of 1-2 pitches. Trad placements can be a little limited but there are some stellar trad lines at the venue.

access issues

Access to the Mohlapitse Valley crags is under negotiation - at the request of the owners (the Serala Community), please contact Vincent Egan at 082 412 7247 or Bronwyn Egan at 081 4020 417 to arrange access.

ethic

Traditional and sport climbing

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -24.018103, 30.068899

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -24.190905, 30.310328

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -24.306912, 30.362929

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -26.268149, 25.519619

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -25.807317, 27.549699

description

Magaliesberg is a mountain range extending west and north from Pretoria to just south of Pilanesberg. Rock climbing in the Magaliesberg is mostly traditional climbing in deep kloofs or ravines in the northern slopes of the mountain. There are also crags on the southern escarpment. Due to the mild climate in the kloofs, the Magaliesberg offers excellent year-round climbing.

access issues

All of the Magaliesberg is owned by private individuals. Access in the mountain is therefore sensitive. The Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) owns property in the Magaliesberg and provides access permits. Access to other crags are provided by their owners. Most of the MCSA property is accessed by crossing over neighbouring properties so it is always important to know and follow the access arrangements when you visit the area.

For more information on routes, access, and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa: www.mcsa.org.za - Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA
MCSA Johannesburg Section: https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ - Click on “Access and Properties” for more information on properties.
MCSA Magaliesberg Section: www.mcsamagalies.co.za - Go to "Venues" for more information on properties.
ClimbZA Wiki: http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Northwest_Province Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.
ClimbZA Forum: https//www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A south-african climbing forum where you can find climbing partners or more about different climbing areas and climbs.

approach

The north crags are reachable via the N4 & R104, see dedicated approach for each.

ethic

No fire allowed as per “No Fires in Magaliesberg Policy”. There is currently a moratorium on bolting in Magaliesberg.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.721491, 27.848433

description

Chosspile is a sport climbing area above the Hartbeespoort Dam, within an hour’s drive from Johannesburg. It comprises of 4 climbing sectors with grades ranging between 11 and 34. Routes at Chosspile are fully bolted and range in grade from 11 – 34, with a couple of projects which will be among the hardest in SA once opened. The height range of the routes is between 12 to 30 metres, so a 60 metre rope is sufficient. The Harry Potter area has the highest concentration of easier routes while Lord of the Rings and Man Cave are most suitable for experienced strong climbers.

access issues

Due to past safety issues, as of mid 2011 the following access arrangements were negotiated by the MCSA with Mount Amanzi, which has legal control of the land:

Only recognised climbing club members (MCSA, SANCF, or University) who have an up-to-date membership card, with a photo, are allowed to climb at the Chosspile.

Each card holder is allowed to bring two guests as current status of October 2018.

Members and guests first report to Mount Amanzi’s reception (same side of the road, but across the river from the Chosspile) where they sign an indemnity and pay R30 per card-holder and 50R per guest. Update 2019: You will receive as well the (weekly renewed) gate lock combination. The car guards will be directly at the park site instead of at the gate previously.

Although guards are paid R5 per guest, please feel free to supplement their earnings.

Note: Yearly passes are available.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

approach

Walk ins are short but steep and range from about 15 minutes (Man Cave and Harry Potter) to 30 minutes (Wall of Aglarond and Lord of the Rings).

where to stay

Due to its proximity to Johannesburg, the Chosspile is ideal for a day’s outing. However, accommodation is available at Mount Amanzi:www.mountamanzi.co.za

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.711902, 27.885764

summary

The Cable Way crags offer great variety in climbing only a short drive from Gauteng. The high escarpment setting makes this climbing crag unique and can be accessed on foot or by Cable car.

description

Access All climbing at these crags needs park entry pass ticket from Iron Throne At the reception kiosk OR online at https://www.webtickets.co.za/v2/Event.aspx?itemid=1515945357

ROUTE INFO Cableway crags route names and grading’s below, listed in order from left to right as you face the crag. Grades upgraded/downgraded are still to come. The crags to the far East of the upper Cable (Chospile) way were bolted by the MCSA The top anchors are marked with Cairns please see diagram attached and the various areas at the moment.

The crags to the West of the Upper Cable way are on the Iron Throne Adventure Park property and accessed by an entry ticket purchased at their entrance kiosk. Or online at https://www.webtickets.co.za/v2/Event.aspx?itemid=1515945357

The obvious headwall under the cableway line has been recently bolted with perma-draws on the top of each route for ease and safety. Iron Throne are looking to continue bolting and upgrading all the Cable Way crags.

Iron Throne park: https://goo.gl/maps/6tDqtoKEDwHMWRP76

access issues

All climbing at these crags needs entries pass ticket from Iron Throne At the reception kiosk OR online at https://www.webtickets.co.za/v2/Event.aspx?itemid=1515945357

• NB: From 10 Sep 2022 you can walk in from the top Cableway station OR THE TOP EAST CRAGS ARE ACCESSED BY ABSEILING INTO THE START OF THE CLIMBS, PLEASE TAKE CARE WHEN APPROACHING AS THERE MAY BE CLIMBERS BELOW, SOME OF THE ABSEIL’S REQUIRE TWO RAPS. TIE KNOTS IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE AND BE CAREFUL NOT TO ABSEIL OFF THE END OF YOUR ROPES!! CHAINS ARE PROVIDED. AN 80 M ROPE IS REQUIRED FOR THE ABSEIL INTO THIS AREA.

The West Kings landing crag can be accessed by foot from the Iron Throne Adventure Park or by Cable Way and following the hikers path to enter the crag from above.

approach

Detailed Access/ Direction to crags.

After obtaining a park access permit from Iron Throne Adventure park You have 2 options.

Maps are also on the link below https://www.google.co.za/maps/@-25.7146011,27.8822521,1479m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m2!6m1!1s1wuYsWRLLtOktyMjL9DKea55dQtBeuYFm

1 -Walk in from Iron Throne This takes about a 30min walk to up to the 1st crag "Kings Landing", There are paths further to make your way to the top crags, should you want to hike to the very top. All these pathes are marked and also available on map link above ( green Trails )

2- Make your way to the Harties Cableway Next door, buy a ticket to go up on the cable-lifted gondolas and walk in with the paths marked with green signage OR THE TOP EAST CRAGS ARE ACCESSED BY ABSEILING INTO THE START OF THE CLIMBS, PLEASE TAKE CARE WHEN APPROACHING AS THERE MAY BE CLIMBERS BELOW, SOME OF THE ABSEIL’S REQUIRE TWO RAPS. TIE KNOTS IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE AND BE CAREFUL NOT TO ABSEIL OFF THE END OF YOUR ROPES!! CHAINS ARE PROVIDED. AN 80 M ROPE IS REQUIRED FOR THE ABSEIL INTO THIS AREA.

Kings landing and Ten up crags are accessible from the top cableway station from 2nd Sept 2022. Follow the green sinage for all crac access paths.

Walking: The path up starts at a reception of the Iron Throne Adventure Park after purchasing an entry ticket.

The path is clearly marked hiking trail, follow the signs to the lower area Kings Landing. or Use map link above.

All areas can be reached with out having to go all the way to the upper cable car.

The lower Area "Ten Up" See path on Map ( green ) on Link https://www.google.co.za/maps/@-25.7146011,27.8822521,1479m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m2!6m1!1s1wuYsWRLLtOktyMjL9DKea55dQtBeuYFm OR Ten Up is accessed as one tops out of the first small break through the rock band on the path mentioned. One will notice a prominent knoll about 60 m to the right (East) with a faint track leading off in this direction. The chains are marked with a Cairn and a tennis ball on a stake. After abseiling down these (30m abseil) the climbs can be found on this slab you have just abbed down or the harder ones on the prominent butters South of you. To access these you can either walk around the bit tress to the Right (West) or abseil down from the chains that can be found as one climbs over the top of the buttress.

The "Dust Bowl" and “Need for speed" areas These areas are directly above you if one looks up from the first chains first used to access "Ten up"

The "Dust Bowl" is the crag with the big scoop / Cut back and "Need for speed" is the Cut back with Slab to the Right (East) of this. There is a access path to te top from here, plz see green routes on map or follow the green trail sinage.

Accessing the crags once at the top cable station. Pass threw the door next to the massage parlour located under the main cableway building. Follow the obvious path makes with Green route sinage. OR The upper crags "Dust Bowl and "Need for speed" areas are accessed by walking up to the top shop and toilet areas, next to the large brick tower and Radio mast.Once there, head East around the toilets, following the obvious path East down the ridge. After about 100m one will find a Cairn, and "tennis ball” markers. Follow these down to a ledge and chains above the Need for Speed Area, please be careful not to dislodge any rocks as there might be climbers below. The "Dust bowl Area" is now of to your left (West) and is about a 20m walk.

To access the lower crag "Ten up" Trail split to the right before you hit Duest Bowl. Follow the green markers,left at he next split. Permadraws are up for abb in or walk round with green marked trails on map link.

ethic

 The crag and parking: The climbing is on private property and the owner's right of admission is reserved. Any individual making use of the crags access arrangement agrees to the conditions stated below. ALL CLIMBING TO PURCHASE A PARK ACCESS PASS FROM IRON THRONE ADVENTURE PARK

• Please note: Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is a high-risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners and / or the Iron Throne Adventure park take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts

• To ensure continued access please keep to the following: Visitors to the lower crags must access through the Iron Throne Adventure Park. if you are using the gondola to go up, plz ensure you buy a park access permit from Irom Throne 1st.

Do not drive off the established roads and park only at the parking provided by the cableway.

Stay on established paths. Walk in single file on existing paths and avoid creating new paths. Visitors may only go to the climbing area and use the paths leading to them.

NO FIRES are allowed Reduce disturbance to animals specifically the Black Eagles and other nesting birds. Specifically, no climbing and or bolting may take place near the Black Eagle nesting site (upper right rock face). NO OVERNIGHT CAMPING - Climbers are only permitted during daylight hours. Carry out all waste. This is a high-use area, treat “peels” etc. as non-disposable rubbish. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out Take extreme caution when smoking. PACK OUT CIGARETTE ENDS Consider fellow climbers when relieving yourself, paths and climbing routes. Burry / carefully burn toilet paper but ideally use the facilities provided by Aerial cableway.

Respect other visitors. Do not throw or roll rocks off cliffs when accessing areas from above as there may be climbers below.

In case of any accident / emergency

call park management 0718931653 Thomas van Tonder OR call MCSA Mountain Search and Rescue on 074 125 1385 or alternatively 074 163 3952. Where applicable, assist and encourage others to adhere to the above.

history

The Cableway crag is one the more recently bolted crags. Original routes in the area started at the upper east crags by the MCSA and were bolted in 2011. The newly developed Iron Throne Adventure Park Opened in November 2021 by the outdoor enthusiasts running and funding the park. They have since added more routes to all sections along with open walking paths and easier access to link all crags.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -25.807595, 27.905921

summary

2 sport climbing cragas as well as a trad section, routes range from a 12 to a 21 and some are up to 25m in height

access issues

This area used to be closed to climbing - please treat it and the land owners with respect to ensure we as climbers continue to have access.

Enter at the Africaland hiking venue and pay R80 entrance PP

Do not park close to the hiking trails as the owners would like to keep the hikers experience pure. Park near an abandoned house when going down the second left after entering the gate and walk to the crags.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: -26.857084, 27.282110

summary

The Baboons Cliff crag is mostly shorter, bouldery routes.

description

There are 19 bolted climbs here with grades varying from 15 to 28. The climbing is mostly short and bouldery. Some of the belay stances on the upper sections can be tricky and caution should be taken.

There are many Anchor only routes for trad but for those less experience can walk around and hang for top rope, has a few hidden gems but mostly short routes.

access issues

Access is via the Thabella Thabeng Resort hiking route at R150/pp. Please sign the waiver upon entrance.

approach

Directions From Johannesburg take the N1 South and pass through the Grasmere Toll Plaza Approximately 60 km further take the Parys / Sasolburg turnoff to Parys (R59 to Parys 20 km). Don’t go through the Kroon Vaal Plaza Enter the Town and keep in the right lane Follow the Potchefstroom road signs At the robot (c/o Breë and Van Coller Streets) turn right and cross the Vaal River Proceed about 2 km and turn left on the R53 to Potchefstroom Travel 10 km and take the turn-off to Venterskroon Travel 10 km and Thabela Thabeng will be on your left

From Potchefstroom Take the Parys route(R53), follow route for 35.8km. Turn Left on gravel road after just passing the Police Station. Follow gravel route for 11km reaching Thabela Thabeng Resort on your left.

The crag is a 1km hike from reception following the main mountain biking route and splitting off to Baboons Cliff for the last 100m hike. The final approach is relatively steep with lots of loose rocks to watch out for.

where to stay

Thabele Thabeng Resort has affordable accommodating with friendly staff as well as camping facilities at the Old Imperial In about 4 km's up the road @ R50 per night.

ethic

NO FIRES are allowed.

• Carry out all waste. This is a high use area, treat peels etc. as non-disposable rubbish. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out.

• Take extreme caution when smoking. PACK OUT CIGARETTE ENDS

• Consider fellow climbers when relieving yourself. Respect other visitors.

• Do not throw or roll rocks off cliffs.

• In case of any accident / emergency call Potchefstroom Fire Brigade on 018 2995347 or MCSA Mountain Search and Rescue on 074 125 1385

• Where applicable, assist and encourage others to adhere to the above.

history

The Vredefort crater is the largest verified impact crater on Earth, which left the area with a large amount of untapped potential for boulting. In and around the climbing area large piles of loose rock and man made caves can be found, that was made during the gold rush in the 1800's. The grater that it the earth lifted the gold from the bedrock and made it more accessible with time period tools.

summary

This boulder area is located right in the middle of Brits, a small town north of Pretoria.

access issues

The boulders are on private property so act accordingly. The paved road that leads to the BIG HOUSE ON THE HILL is forbidden!

approach

Take the main road from Hartebeespoort dam into Brits. At the first shops (pharmacy & garage) go right into VD Velden road. Go straight towards the hill in the distance. After you pass under the rail bridge, take the third road right. At the end of this road a paved road leads of left and up the hill. Follow the paved road to the cul du sac and park out of the road. This is the WARZONE area with the Beach Landing boulder +- 20m from you. To get to the other boulder areas (Spokhuis,EW,Coffin boulders) follow the gravel path left of the WARZONE across the hill. You will notice a gravel path leading up the hill past the school grounds. This road is quite bad so check it out first.

ethic

Do not remove vegetation if it is not necessary or worthwhile. Climb existing problems as is. Do not even alter the landing. The opening party had the balls, you can grow some. No projects! All problems on the RD marked as proje cts are only to show where good lines are. All problems are fair game. Some bolted routes exist at the Reservoir area but we do not have any info on them at present. NO FURTHER BOLTING WILL BE ALLOWED. There are people living here so be considerate when you let out your war cry.

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: -26.016749, 28.127397

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: -26.299463, 27.829722

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.881129, 28.724746

summary

Bronkies is the most popular crag in Gauteng. The crag offers easy access and good climbing all year round.

description

The crag is on the banks of the Bronkhorstspruit river and is south-west facing - offering morning shade in summer. In summer it is best to go early and climb before the sun moves over, in winter it is better to go a little later and avoid the early morning chill.

The crag features easy access to a large number of very good single pitch sport routes.

access issues

The crag and parking etc. is private property and the owners right of admission is reserved. The Mountain Club of South Africa has come to an agreement for access to this area for its members. Any individual making use of this access arrangement agrees to the conditions stated below. Contact the Magaliesberg (Pretoria) or Johannesburg sections of the Mountain Club of South Africa in case of any query or doubt.

Entrance fees are as follows:

R40 for adults R20 for school going children above 12 years old R10 for children 12 years of age and below

Please pay the entrance fee and sign the visitors book upon entrance. Someone will come out with the visitors book, otherwise the book can be found at the main house.

To ensure continued access please keep to the following:

Visitors must sign the access book and pay the entrance fee before entering (the access book has the MCSA logo on the cover).
Do not drive off the established roads and park only at the upper or lower parking areas.
Stay on established paths. Walk in single file on existing paths and avoid creating new paths.
Visitors may only go to the climbing area and the paths leading to it, other areas remain private.
No fishing is allowed – climbing only (you may lunch picnic at the river though).
No fires are allowed.
Reduce disturbance to animals specifically the Black Eagles and other nesting birds. Specifically no climbing and or bolting may take place near the Black Eagle nesting site.
No overnight camping - climbers are only permitted during daylight hours.
Carry out all waste. This is a high use area, treat peels etc. as non-disposable rubbish. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out.
Take extreme caution when smoking. Pack out cigarette ends.
Consider fellow climbers when relieving yourself and keep at least 50m away from the river, paths and climbing routes. Bury / carefully burn toilet paper.
Respect other visitors.
Do not throw or roll rocks off cliffs.
No guns allowed.

Please note: Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is consider a high risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners and / or the Mountain Club of South Africa take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts

In case of any accident / emergency call MCSA Mountain Search and Rescue on 074 125 1385 or alternatively 074 163 3952.

approach

From JHB: Either take the N1 north and then the N4 east (Witbank). Take the Bronkhorstspruit off ramp (R25). Turn right to go south towards the R25. At the T-junction turn left onto the R25 towards Bronkhorstspruit. Then shortly thereafter, at the R42 junction to Delmas, turn right. After 3,8km at the crest of a hill the gate to the farm will be on the right (sign for Department of water affairs and forestry - this is +- 500m further than where it used to be in the past). Turn right onto the dirt road. Due to the road works there are more than one parking area in use. Or take the N12 east (Witbank). Turn off at the Delmas, Bronkhorstspruit off ramp (R42). Turn left and continue on for about 25Km passing the Bronkhorstspruit dam on the left. Before the crest of a hill the gate to the farm will be on the left (sign for Department of water affairs and forestry - this is +- 500m before the old turnoff). Turn left onto the dirt road. Due to the road works there are more than one parking area in use.

where to stay

No overnight camping at the crag.

ethic

There are Verreaux's Eagles (Black Eagles) using 2 nesting sites at Bronkies.

During breeding season (April to August) it is restricted to climb routes close to the used nest. The closure extent is clearly marked at the first bolt of the first and last climb closed, and updated every year.

Limits as per 2019: from Joint Venture to Blue boots. (reopened since)

Summary:

Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: -26.064531, 27.780561

summary

Quartzite with marked variations in colour and texture. A friable shale layer lies under the quartzite and is very visible just North East of the crags along the river. Some areas, particularly the NW sector, have a very ‘alpine’ feel with unpleasant falls awaiting the unwary belayer. The very uneven terrain can be disorienting. Please consider using the belay safety bolts (painted black) provided at the start of some climbs.

description

Buttresses facing North, North East and North West. Hot in Summer but shade can be found at various times of day. Warm and sunny in Winter - a great Winter crag. As a general rule the crags on the right of the river (facing downstream) are in shade in the morning while the crags on the left are in shade in the afternoon.

access issues

On arrival at the security gate, state that you are going climbing. The guard will then ask you to fill in the register/indemnity and pay R50 per person. Otherwise please book in with Derek Schneider, the manager of the Rocky Valley camp (083 326 8618). He lives in the house on the left nearest the bridge.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

approach

King’s Kloof lies in the Chancliff district of Krugersdorp.

Search for "Rocky Valley Christian Camp" or "Achterbergh Camp & Conference Centre" on Google Maps for directions.

Directions from Krugersdorp: Leave Krugersdorp taking Paardekraal Road NE. Take the exit for Robert Broom Drive and left (uphill) at RBD. Turn first right into Clifford Road and second left into Edward Road. Drive all the way to the brick wall ahead and follow the road next to it which takes you to the Achterbergh gate. Directions from everywhere else: Get to the big 4-way robot at the SW end of the Pretoria Highway (N14 meets M47 (Hendrik Potgeiter) meets R28). Large Sasol garage on corner. Go up the long hill towards Krugersdorp (R28) and take the exit for Robert Broom Drive and left onto RBD. Turn first right into Clifford Road and second left into Edward Road. Drive all the way to the brick wall ahead and follow the road next to it which takes you to the Achterbergh gate.

Once through the gate, drive slowly down the hill until you cross the bridge and parking is immediately on the right as you come over the bridge. Try not to park further down the field than the obvious climbing information sign.

where to stay

Accommodation is available by contacting Derek Schneider at Rocky Valley (083 326 8618), or Betsie Slippers at Achterbergh (011 954 5533). There is no camping or bivouacing allowed.

ethic

Access has been granted by the two religious organisations who own the land under the agreement that all the crag rules below are followed and that all new routes are given names with respectful christian connotations.

Job 1:21. The Lord giveth, the Lord taketh away. Please heed the following:

No alcohol
Take home all litter and refuse (including fruit peels and cigarette butts)
No destruction of vegetation
No interference with any animals
No soap or detergents or chemicals allowed in or near the river
No loud music
No graffiti or defacing of rocks
Toilet activities must be more than 60m from streams with no trace visible afterwards. Carry out toilet paper. (Just use the bathrooms near the parking).
Be polite an courteous to all staff and management.
Only climbing allowed, no other activities permitted including fishing, quad bikes, motor bikes, hunting.

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -25.630262, 29.001615

description

This venue offer multipitch trad climbing, limited deep water solo and a very few sport routes.

access issues

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

where to stay

There is a camping spot with a long drop but no other facilities, no electricity nor water.

ethic

There are Verreaux's Eagles (Black Eagles) using a nesting site on the main Crag, and another on the Pillar of Eros.

During breeding season (April to August) it is restricted to climb routes close to the nests. The closure extent is clearly marked on the information pannel at the entry gate and updated every year.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -25.771119, 28.293194

summary

Very small bouldering area in a quiet nature reserve in the middle of Pretoria

access issues

Public nature reserve

approach

From the N1 north take the atterbury road turn off.Turn right towards Menlyn mall.Go through 3 robots then turn left at the 4th robot into General louis Botha road.Go through 1 robot and then 100m after the robot look for the Plumbago Nature Reserve turn off.

Sign in at the table and turn left where you will walk on a cement bridge over a river.Take the cement path all the way up the mountain.once at the top look for the cement bench and look for the path that leeds downhill for 10m.Turn left and pass some small boulders till you reach the main bouldering wall.

where to stay

n/a

summary

Boulder area on the private property next to Bobbejaans Berg/Mutango Lodge

history

developped around 2012 by Ebert Nel, Wesley Black & others

description

A sport crag close to Pretoria that has been plagued by bad crime, and mostly abandonned by climbers since early 2000s.

access issues

Became very unsafe with regular break-ins into cars and robberies at knife point.

approach

Access was normally from the North past the Vlakfontein water treatment works.

history

This crag used to be climbed regularly in the 1980s and 1990s, but has fallen into complete disuse due to theft/mugging incidents at the crag.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: -26.106566, 27.976172

summary

https://cityrock.co.za/johannesburg/

Summary:

Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: -25.799944, 28.410603

summary

http://rockvalley.co.za/Contacts/

summary

Closed for structural concrete renovations. No clear timeframe for reopening.

description

Concrete tower at the LC de Villiers Sports Centre. The wall is 28m high and features routes of the grades 16 to 25. Access is permitted to members of the university's climbing, hiking and paragliding club, Exploratio, and members of The Mountain Club of South Africa.

summary

The gym closed activities for undetermined duration in July 2018.

access issues

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

history

Originally developed by Jacques Cronje

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -25.570778, 28.568953

summary

Lots of opportunity for new routes on great quality rock - trad and sport

description

Quartzite rock, mostly looks very similar to Waterval Boven. Lots of overgrown vegetation and alien vegetation makes walking difficult currently

access issues

Private property - difficult relationship with neighbour who's land needs to be crossed to gain access

approach

Access is from Horseback Africa and is a 30 - 40 minute route to the top to seil in - walking access to the bottom is difficult due to vegetation

where to stay

Colin's Horseback Africa

ethic

Permission to bolt climbs in the future has been granted. May use chalk and slings on trees and chip holds if necessary

history

Brand new crag with 1 trad route so far. 2 routes planned for first ascent and lots of bolting opportunity

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: -25.744685, 30.138885

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.654346, 30.360716

summary

Probably Africa's best sport climbing destination with more than 1000 routes on bullet-hard quarzite surrounded by wooded valleys full of animal and plant life.

description

Welcome to Boven! If you are reading this, there is a good chance you are at Africa‟s best sport climbing destination! Or at the very least, you are considering making a trip here. Boven has over 800 sport climbs ranging from grade 8 to 34 (French grade 4 to 8c), and plenty of excellent trad climbing too. The rock is bullet-hard quartzite and the climbs are typically vertical to gently overhanging with the odd overlap. Technical endurance climbing is the predominant style and precise footwork and finger strength will go far! The crags give views over remote wooded valleys and hills rich with animal and plant-life; the bases of the climbs are flat and shady, the crags are quiet and the walk-ins are a breeze. It is one of the few climbing areas in the world where weather is good for climbing almost all year round. Rest-day activities include game viewing in the world famous Kruger National Park, or just basking I the African sun. What more can we say…..the grass really IS greener here.

access issues

Climbing Permits Wonderland

The Wonderland crags are spread over multiple private land parcels including Mountain Club of South Africa , Mahem and Tranquilitas. The Mountain Club of South Africa has negotiated for all climbers to have access to these properties via a climbing permit.

Permits will be offered at discounted rates to members of the Mountain Club of South Africa or guests at Tranquilitas/Mayhem. Following are the permit types and costs:

Day permits R60. Day permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas members R30

Weekend permits R100. Weekend permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas members R50

Month permits R600. Month permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas R300

Annual R1600. Annual for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas R1 200

By purchasing a permit you agree to the Conditions & Waiver Free parking to permit holders at Tranquilitas reception only and in demarcated spaces. Permits will be mandatory and people found without one will be treated as trespassers.

Permits can be purchased from Tranquilitas reception via SnapScan or Zapper. For annual permits e-mail book@tranquilitas.com.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

approach

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. This road is currently (2019) in much better condition, especially during wet weather.

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website.

The other service is the Lowveld Link (www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

where to stay

There is a great climbers‟ lodge in town which is a good base if you are alone. Dorm beds and inexpensive double rooms are available. There are normally a handful of road-tripping foreigners around and the odd local.

Roc n‟ Rope Adventures (www.rocrope.com) (+27 (0) 13 257 0363) own the lodge and they are extremely helpful (Gustav wrote the Guidebooks since 2004 so he knows his way around the crags!).

Or, if you want to stay up in the hills, 5 minutes walk from the crags you can stay at Tranquilitas Adventure Farm (www.tranquilitas.com). It must be one of the most pleasant climber campsites on the planet! Some of the best crags at Boven are not more than a 5 to 10 minutes walk; there is a swimming pool, hot showers, fridges and great fire sites. Mornings are spent drinking coffee and relaxing on the lawns until 11-ish (when the crags go into shade) and climbers gather around camp-fires during the evenings.

Tranquilitas Adventure Farm has a large campsite with several shady trees. There are also chalets, safari tents, luxury tents and a luxury farmhouse for groups of 6 - 12.

book@tranquilitas.com or +27823880100.

There are also a few self-catering houses and lodges in the area that can be rented, some can accommodate larger groups (up to 15).

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -25.522131, 29.270450

description

This is a trad climbing area at the confluence of the Hellspruit and Olifants River upstream of Loskop Dam offering about 41 multi-pitch climbs, usually 4 to 5 pitches long. It is in a beautiful wild setting with an abundance of animals including fish eagle, buffalo, eland, giraffe, ostrich, crocodile, hippo and leopard. The area gets very hot, making it a perfect winter venue.

access issues

Access, including permits, must be arranged with the Mpumalanga Parks Board Tel: 013 262 4190.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

approach

Two to two and a half hours, including about 20 km of dirt roads, which can be very sandy and rutted so it’s advisable to travel in a car with 4 wheel drive.

The length and difficulty of the walk-in depends on where you climb, if on the cliffs below the camping then a short 5 minute walk. However, if on the spectacular North and West faces of the Hell Gorge – separated by the Hellspruit – then the walk in is a much steeper hour or more, including wading the Olifants River.

where to stay

Camping is on the cliffs above the Olifants River, which offer many shady spots. While there are long drop toilets, they are seldom used and never cleaned, so using the bush is a cleaner option – don’t forget a spade to dig a hole though. There’s a good camp-fire area.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.088226, 30.779306

description

Situated in the gorge below the Sabie Waterfall. Lots of indigenous vegetation and some interesting birds. (Louries and even Fish Eagles to name a few.) Facing South, and being above 1050m above sea level, the sun is rarely a problem. The routes can become very wet and slippery during a heavy rainy season. You can take a swim in the river or pools or take a jump from higher up into the pools. Please check for submerged rocks first. I wouldn’t drink the water!!

access issues

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

approach

Drive out of town towards Graskop. Just as you cross the bridge at Sabie Waterfall, turn left and park in the parking area. Walk through under the bridge and follow the footpath for about 130m. To the right there is an easy path down. Stay to the right, back towards the waterfall. Height: 12 – 18m

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -25.593295, 30.772714

description

Most informations extracted from KAAPSEHOOP BOULDERING GUIDE by Donovan Willis, 2017, with his express authorization to reuse pictures and descriptions.

The bouldering is on pocket-like and slopey sandstone boulders. Many easy problems have not been documented in this guide. Amongst the sea of lowballs which are great for kids, scattered are a couple of great problems.

access issues

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

approach

Drive from Waterval Boven towards Nelspruit on the N4. About 50km from Waterval /Boven is Ngodwana and a factory paper mill. Take a signed turn-off right to Kaapse Hoop. Drive for 10minutes and the town and boulders will come into view. Drive into the town and park at the start of the walking trail.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -24.559847, 30.792527

summary

Excellent trad climbing with beautiful views.

description

Excellent trad climbing on some of the deepest precipitous cliffs of any canyon on the planet with beautiful views of the world's largest green canyon.

access issues

The crags outside the Blyde Canyon Forever Resort are on SANParks property and climbing on these crags is not permitted. These crags, which are accessed via the Rondawel Lookout parking area, are patrolled by SANParks officials, who will arrest any climbers on them.

The crags within the Blyde Canyon Forever Resort are situated on land owned by SANParks, but leased by Forever Resorts. SANPark officials do not patrol this land as it is the Resort’s responsibility to protect it. While no official access has been granted by Blyde Canyon Forever Resort to climb the crags on this land, climbing has also not been forbidden. Climbers visiting the area are asked to respect the sensitivity of access at present by being discrete and vigilant. While you are free to open new lines, bolting is strictly prohibited.

where to stay

Accommodation at the Forever Resort is the most convenient, especially for climbs in the resort. There are also plenty of accommodation in the area that is close to the climbs.

history

Blyde means "glad" or "happy" in Dutch, a name derived from a voortrekkers' expedition. The 'happy river' was thus named in 1844, when Hendrik Potgieter and others returned safely from Delagoa Bay to the rest of their party of trekkers who had considered them dead. While still under this misapprehension they had named the nearby river where they had been encamped, Treurrivier, or 'mourning river'.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -24.455073, 30.614210

summary

The cliffs tend to be north facing and as such will be very hot in summer. The best time to climb will be winter, although spring and autumn will not be too bad. There are a lot of black-jacks present in the early winter which will make the descents a little less fun.

description

Manoutsa or Strijdom Tunnel is a good traditional climbing area in Mpumalanga. The area was first 'climbed' back in 1975 and slowly more and more routes have been added. The climbing is generally very good with superb views of the lowveld. The routes are all natural mostly 5 to 7 pitches long. The rock varies from one climb to another, but is normally excellent. It tends to be rather featured making apparently blank faces quite climbable, while providing excellent gear in both vertical cracks and on the faces themselves. The cliffs tend to be north facing and as such will be very hot in summer. The best time to climb will be winter, although spring and autumn will not be too bad. There are a lot of black-jacks present in the early winter which will make the descents a little less fun. Take plenty of water, and allow for a 2 hour descent back to the car.

access issues

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

approach

From the N4 travelling towards Waterval Boven take the road to Lydenburg just after the Machadadorp Toll Plaza. After about 15km, turn left onto the R36 towards Lydenburg. Continue along the R36 through Lydenburg and Ohrigstad and down the Abel Erasmus pass to the tunnel. The climbing area is just upstream of the JG Strijdom tunnel on both sides of the road. This road leads down the escarpment on the Abel Erasmus pass towards Tzaneen. Manoutsa is broken down into a number of climbing areas, each with their own parking, approach and descent. They are thus described in more detail in these sections.

where to stay

The Restaurant is about 1.5 hours away. Alternatively, continue to the Manoutsa Campsite a few kilometres beyond the tunnel. Chalets and camping are available.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -25.430249, 29.340659

summary

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

description

The crags consist of an East and West Wing, split by a waterfall with a deep pool at the base. Counter-intuitively, the East Wing faces west (morning shade) and the West Wing faces east (afternoon shade). The West Wing is the main event with routes between 100 and 150m high. It is very hot in the morning and some of the faces still catch sun in the afternoon. You can find shady routes here though if you start climbing late enough. The East Wing is shorter (up to about 60m high) and not as extensive. There are, however, some excllent routes. It works well to do a couple of routes on the East Wing from very early in the morning, to then have a snooze through the heat of the day, and start a big route up the West Wing at about 3pm. The descent gulley/track descends to the east of the East Wing. There is a very scrappy-looking crag further east of this with one route on it but it really doesn't look worthwhile. It has been dubbed the Scrap Heap. At the far western end of the West Wing the crag is much shorter. There are currently no routes here but there appears to be some good rock. It looks like it owuld be easiest to access this by walking west along the top and then down past the far end of the crag. The routes are listed from left to right, looking up. True right is on the right when looking downstream.

access issues

The JHB MCSA gets access here once a year for a meet, usually in September. Consult their meet sheet. The land is privately owned and, although the land-owner is climber-friendly, he values his privacy and his property very highly. So if you want to climb here, go through the MCSA and FOLLOW ALL THE RULES GIVEN BY THE LANDOWNER! Usually he requires: 1) Names and telephone numbers of members of your club who will be in the group. 2) Car registration numbers. 3) Time of arrival. 4) Everyone will have to sign an indemnity form on arrival. The gates are normally locked and the land-owner makes an arrangement with his employee to open for climbers at a pre-arranged time. DO NOT BE LATE BECAUSE THERE IS NO CELL PHONE SIGNAL AND YOU WILL PISS EVERYONE OFF IF THE GATE-KEEPER IS KEPT WAITING! There are a number of dwellings on the property. Please stay well away from these and respect the privacy of the land-owner and his family/guests.

where to stay

There are no facilities. Camping is in the thorn trees by the cars, next to a usually dry dam. NO FIRES ALLOWED! THE RISK OF VELD FIRE IS TOO HIGH! The campsite is above the cliffs. It is a 15 to 20 minute easy walk down a dirt track to the base of the cliffs. DO NOT DRIVE DOWN THIS ROAD - YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO GET BACK UP AGAIN!

ethic

NO BOLTING!!!!

history

Magageni is an amazing wild African climbing venue on the escarpment overlooking Loskop Dam. Routes range from 50 to 120m and the rock quality is mostly excellent. The area was climbed at mostly in the '60's and '70's and since then there has been little activity. This means that most of the routes are easier than about grade 20 (or else they have aid) so the place is a playground for first ascents and first free ascents. But you better hurry up because the routes are falling thick and fast.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -25.712605, 29.433715

summary

Botshabelo is a bouldering area located just outside Middelburg. The best bouldering spot within a decent distance of Johannesburg and Pretoria.

description

The rebirth of Gauteng bouldering after the loss of the great "Ezemvelo". Botshabelo is located just outside of Middelburg. We have no idea who is in charge of this place but rumors suggest the land was part of the "land Claim" act. The guys seem super friendly and open to climbers and happy to see some business coming in.

In terms of safety it seems good. However it is still South Africa so be careful. Don't leave valuables in the car and stay vigilant. This is important as popularity for the area grows.

In summer this area might just be unbearable but winter will offer some decent temps. The rock is amazing for climbing! If the area had more bigger boulders it would even compete with the big boys! A great place to learn about outdoor bouldering and to make your skin thick.

R25 cash per person to get through the main gate.

access issues

Take some money with. Sometimes you'll have to pay R25 entry.

Access seems good for now.

Make sure you load the map on your phone before you enter the area. Signal is quite spotty and you'll be lost without it.

approach

Park your car next to the graveyard and follow the path. If you have a 4x4 you could potentially park right next to the area. (be careful though)

where to stay

No official best place to stay but Middelburg offers accommodation in abundance as well as some potential surrounding campsites. Staying in town is the best bet for quick access though.

ethic

When opening new lines please take a picture and update the guide. This way we can share the psych! Breaking loose rock is acceptable for safety reasons. If you find a good line you can do some "gardening" but be reasonable. (nothing unnecessary).

history

The first boulders were opened in 2013 and uploaded onto the crag absolute legends. If you ever read this, thank you, if it wasn't for you we would never have known. This is how it was later found and when more development took place.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -26.276613, 29.936553

description

This crag can only be accessed by permission so please make sure you get permission to climb here so the place wont get banned.

Contact Franz

franz.fuls@gmail.com

Some photos at https://plus.google.com/photos/104731246486753333606/albums/5757886123199859937

description

Apologies for possible incorrect location, I'm sure it's around this area please update correct location once acquired.

history

http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/pdf/ClimbZA_JimsCrag.pdf

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.516612, 29.584603

description

The farm offers various activities and camping spots. See the website or contact Ryk for details. Day visitor fees are R50pp. Cell reception on the farm is very limited. There is a longdrop at the top of the crag close to the one 50m abseil point. Although the website says you'll manage with a normal car, it's probably best to not attempt driving up to the crag without a vehicle with significant ground clearance - the first part of the track is badly eroded(2011-01-29). The owner is Ryk Diepraam: 013-245 1049 083 528 9586

approach

http://maps.google.co.za/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&oe=UTF8&msa=0&msid=212438244707500917472.0004b3d4bd43192ed94f1&ll=-25.545801,29.516273&spn=0.063588,0.112867&t=h&vpsrc=6&source=embed

history

http://www.buffalogorge.co.za/

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -26.683667, 30.691763

summary

little Trad crag on the banks of the Ngwempisi River

description

Most information extracted from "Ngwempisi - Route Guide for Rock Climbing, Amsterdam, Mpumalanga" by Gareth Frost

access issues

On the farm of Christo van Aardt. Christo van Aardt has been kind enough to allow us access to his farm so please contact him prior to visiting the area. It may not be necessary to call upon him at his house but just phone ahead to let him know you are coming. Christo van Aardt – 082 4453325 / cvanaardt@pgbison.co.za

approach

Amsterdam is situated on the Swaziland border just to the north of Piet Retief and east of Ermelo. The town mostly revolves around the forestry industry in the area. The town is on the junction of the R65 (Ermelo) and the R33 (Piet Retief / Carolina) roads. From the junction of the R65 and R33 in Amsterdam, travel on the R65 towards Ermelo for 1.9Km then turn left onto a dirt road. Travel on this road for about 8Km, crossing over the Ngwempisi river, then turn left at the sign for farms AEA 8&9 and follow the track to the first house on the right. (Christo’s house). Continue on the track, past the next house on the right, to the sign for Ngwempisi lodge.

where to stay

There is accomodation on hte farm - Ngwempisi Lodge. Contact Bouwer van Aardt to make a booking. Contact Details: Bouwer van Aardt – 082 8047357

ethic

So far only trad climbs have been opened in the gorge. There is a rare species of bird (Bald Ibis) residing in the gorge, so although there is potential for bolted routes, this area would not be suited to sport climbing as frequent visits by large numbers of climbers, often associated with sport climbing, could infringe on the bird’s habitat.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -24.735786, 30.855174

description

Gold Rush is a Bouldering area situated around the Treur Rivier near Grasskop, Mpumalanga. The area is currently divided into 14 main sections, (see map) which are all easily accessible via a short walk, 5 to 18 min, from the cars. Scenic and enjoyable hiking is also on the menu, as we have permission to roam about farm.

access issues

It is essential to notify both farmers in advance of any intended visit.

Contact Neil Margetts at 083 669 3028 or Gustav Janse van Rensburg at +27 (0) 13 257 0363 or 082 753 3695 for these details and the current padlock combination.

approach

To get there from Johannesburg or Pretoria: the best is to first drive to Lydenburg via Dullstroom or via Machadodorp, the latter being a better road but includes being stung by a nasty toll gate. From Lydenburg avoid going up to Sabie unless you are inclined to want the windy scenic adventure of Long Tom Pass. Instead turn left, pick your way through town and right onto the road to Ohrigstad. About 36 km outside Lydenburg turn right again onto the R533, and tootle up to Pilgrims Rest. Continue through Pilgrims Rest and wind your way up to Grasskop. At this point it may be appropriate (if you are not car sick) to take a possible pancake diversion.

There is another alternative route which is quicker but more complicated and prone to one getting lost. Continue down the N4 past Boven or via Schoemanskloof (R539) to a point where one turns left at the road to Sudwala Caves. This is 5km on the Nelspruit side of where the N4 and the Schoemanskloof (R539) join. After 7 km turn right to Sabie and after a further 15 km you will get a T junction at a Railway Station, this time turn left to Sabie. After another 19 km down this road you will get another T junction, turn right and continue for a for about 10Km into Sabie. Pass through Sabie on to Grasskop.

Once the pleasures of Grasskop have been negotiated continue out of town on the road to Gods Window (R532) From the bridge outside Grasskop travel 19 km to London Country House, 22 km to get to the gate on the map on the previous page, and 26.5 km to get to the gate at Erasmushoop for camping.

where to stay

There is self catering accommodation at London Country House (in fact 2 houses) 3km back along the road. These are spacious colonial style old farmhouses done up reasonable smart with all bedding, cooking and eating utensils, large kitchen, cosy lounge with fireplace and other trappings to make an enjoyable stay.

There is also camping at Erasmushoop farm a few km down the road next to the cars. Climbers are also permitted to sleep in Coitus Cave which can sleep up to 6 people or 3 couples. Although this camping is very rustic with no facilities at all but for the river for water and a fireplace (no fire permitted by Coitus Cave), this does provide a truly tranquil and beautiful setting to really be at one with nature.

Prior booking is essential for both the camping and London Country House (013 764 2376).

ethic

In order to make sure we always have access to Gold Rush, the following rules must be adhered to when visiting the area.

No dangerous or reckless activities permitted.
Take home all litter and refuse, (including fruit peels and cigarette butts).
There must be no unnecessary destroying of any vegetation, except by prior arrangement.
No interference with any animal life to be allowed.
No fires allowed at all, except at the campsite under very controlled conditions.
No soap or any other detergents or chemicals allowed in or near the river.
No drunken or explicit promiscuous behaviour allowed.
No playing of loud music/radios.
No Graffiti or any defacing of the rocks other than normal climbing use.
Toilet activities must be more than 80m from any permanent water and no trace must be visible after the activity.
Be polite, and courteous to all staff and management of the land owners.
The area is to be used for climbing and the following other activities are not permitted: fishing, quad or any other motorised biking, hunting, and any other activity which does not comply with the law of the country.
Do not arrive before dawn or leave after sunset.
At least one MCSA member per party.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.440055, 30.972554

summary

ACCESS Park at entrance three at the riverside mall. Walk toward the Government Building and take the path behind the building/ fence, by passing the entrance of the building. Take a walk behind the building on the faint path, until you come close to the gate on the otherside of the building. Turn left through the bushes by passing on old pump house. Walk down the path steeply until reaching the river. Turn left. A few minutes walking on the faint path leads to the first route. The access can be quite overgrown and it may be best to contact some locals. Beware of snakes, Black Mamba’s have been seen on the path.

description

Despite being in the middle of the town the crag has a very wild feel to it Hippos and Crocs have been spotted at the crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.386188, 30.985552

summary

Moon rock

access issues

No access issues to date

approach

From the entrance of eBundu follow the road up past reception and head in the direction of boom gate. Just before the boom gate take a left and then the second left again. This road leads you to the top of the moon rock where you can park. From the top parking walk towards the left on top of the cliff until you find a faint path heading down. Take this down and right which will drop you off at the main face.

access issues

From 2009: Good day. I am representing the management of the game farm for the time being. Climbing in the Ezemvol Nature Reserve is not allowed. Because of the environmental impact. A study is being done on the impact of climbing in this area. I am requesting that this post is removed from the forum. It will take time to get access to this area. If any other people access this area, no access will be granted to any climbers in the future and no future access will be arranged.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.555022, 31.119194

summary

White Rock Adventure Lodge is situated 840m above sea level. It is near the base of a massive granite outcrop called Witkop Mountain.The mountain forms part of the crocodile gorge mountain range. This is in the sub tropical area of Lowveld Mpumalanga. It is part of the Croc River Mountain Conservancy. The Conservancy offers lush indigenous vegetation. This includes Amazing bird Sightings and Wildlife on your doorstep! And so much more.

access issues

The crag and parking etc. is private property and the owners right of admission is reserved. Any individual making use of this access arrangement agrees to the conditions stated below.

Entrance fee is R30, this gets you access the the crag and pool for a swim after your climb.

Please pay the entrance fee and sign the visitors book upon entrance.

Please note:

Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is consider a high risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property, and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts to the owners at the lodge. No dogs are allowed at the crag.

approach

From the parking take the path on the bottom of the pool area, in the general direction of the crag. Here you will find a path leading through some trees. Follow this path until you reach a cairn. Here the path splits in two. 1) The path on the left will take you to the bottom section of the crag and base at 'Wussy Ladder'. 2) The path on the right goes along the base of the tree line. It will start to head left and through the tree line after about 300m there is another split the path on your left will take you to the centre of the crag or straight up, to the top right section. The first route you see will be 'Two Dodgy Bolts'.

where to stay

You can arrange great accommodation at the lodge follow this link for online bookings and enquiries http://www.whiterocklodge.co.za/ or contact 071 376 7285

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.517011, 31.174180

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -28.969955, 30.840414

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -29.360206, 29.244079

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -29.542950, 29.957016

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -29.837319, 30.724957

summary

Hard routes are long and steep. Look for new and old bolts with shiney stainless steel glue-ins. Good for hot days as it stays in the shade and routes remain dry after long periods of rain.

description

Near Shongweni Reserve. Drive as if to Old Shongweni. Take left into the sugar cane at a sign "Delville Wood". Cross the railway lines and drive through the far left tunnel. Park about 150m past the tunnel. The scramble is cut and has steel rungs to follow. Turn left at the top of the scramble.

approach

Scramble well protected and easy for all. definitely slippery when wet.

ethic

Whatever you feel is good for you.

history

Old bolt from 1994/1995 really bad. Large scale re-bolting has taken place with new routes being opened.

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: -29.481590, 30.303930

access issues

IMPORTANT NOTE : The new landowner has refused climbers access to Beacon Buttress and Serengeti Crag. You will be trespassing if you attempt to climb at these crags. Climbers still have access to Atom Smasher Crag thanks to the Hilton High School.

The crags are located on the estates of Hilton College, one of South Africa'a most prestigious private schools. Access to the crags is conditional upon the goodwill of the Headmaster and the Estate Manager.

history

Climbing at Hilton dates back many years with sporadic, unrecorded ascents by various people including the Hilton pupils. However, it was only in 1983 that crag's potential became more widely known and the first routes began to be recorded.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -29.486654, 30.238619

summary

Spectacular venue on a face next to the 100m high waterfall

description

Due to the noise of the falls, verbal communication between belayer and climber is impossible, so work out a system of visible hand signals or rope tugs before climbing. Cell phones can be used.

access issues

See discussion on climbing.co.za, there is currently concerns on a safe access and clean approche due to proximity and growth of a large informal settlement.

approach

Please check with locals from KZN MCSA for latest informations.

Historical Access via a trail from the gorge. Currently overgrown, and partially used as dumping site by vagrants. (June 2020)

Rap access from the top. Currently compromised as well.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -29.599032, 30.382222

description

King Solomon's Mine is a bouldering area not far from Pitermaritzburg.

access issues

At present access is sensitive, please contact Greg Streatfield streat@mweb.co.za for the latest access conditions and directions BEFORE visiting the crag.

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -29.763791, 30.849886

summary

Huge range of grades as a whole however each sub-crag has a standard difficulty within that section of cliff. If you find the crag with your difficulty level there will be many great climbes for you.

description

A huge ravine dotted with many treasures. Some aren't always the easiest to get to but when you get to them, the climbing is spectacular. Such that the rock is dry and you found a crag that's at your level. In Kloof, you choose your crag depending on your climbing level. It doesn't matter where you go because the climbing will nearly always be good, however many of the crags in Klood aren't very forgiving of those who don't climb their standard grades. For example there are places where the easiest climb is a 24 South African grade while another place has the hardest known open climb being a 32 South African grade. Otherwise the rock is solid and often crimpy. Depending on the crag it can be wet on hot days or dry on wet days so make sure you ask a local climber about the weather and information regarding your chosen crag.

access issues

The reserve is currently closed.

where to stay

There are a few B&B's in the area, however as the Kloof climbing area is such a large area, you would need a form of transportation to move between the crags. Therefore it doesn't really matter where you B&B is in Kloof as it would still take some time to get to your destination.

ethic

Kloof is home to animals and therefore general crag rules apply such as no littering, loud conservative noise, etc. please do not feed the animals if you happen to see any. Kloof is mainly sport climbing and as such, bolting is allowed. However there are some crags that are considered to be mainly for trad climbing and as such it's generally accepted to not bolt there however it is still permitted and you won't be punished. retrobolting is not accepted, but their is potential for more routes.

description

A mixture of short sport routes on some spectacular boulders and some natural routes in the sandstone faces.It is a lush green setting in summer and very picturesque.

access issues

Access is closed, apparantly due to climbers not adhering to the previous access conditions.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -29.456386, 30.757216

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -29.740723, 30.677362

summary

Monteseel is all Trad climbing on sandstone.

access issues

No form of booking, notification or registration is required to climb at Monteseel. Although the public currently has right of access to these crags, the usual norms of civilised behaviour obviously still apply.

approach

The Monteseel crags are roughly half way between Durban and Pietermaritzburg. From either city, take the N3 toll road and turn off at the "Hammersdale" off-ramp (exit 34). If approaching from the Pietermaritzburg side, then turn left at the end of the off-ramp, follow the road round a sharp bend and back in the direction of Pietermaritzurg. If approaching from the Durban side, you obviously turn right at the end of the off-ramp, cross the bridge over the N3, then follow the road round the same sharp bend. Continue on for about two kilometres, cross a bridge over a railway line, and then, a couple of hundred metres further, take the turn-off that leads sharply back to the right. This road winds up a hill, past Cordies Hotel (formerly the Colorado) on your right, and reaches a T-junction about a kilometre from the previous turn-off. At the T-junction, turn right and follow the road that winds up to the top of Inchanga Hill. About two kilometres from the T-junction, just before the top of the hill, take the turn to left that is sign-posted "Monteseel". Drive about 100 m up a small hill to another T-junction and turn left into Albert Street. Take the second turn to the right into Seeles Drive. Follow this gravel road for about half a kilometre and park on the side of the road adjacent to a T-junction formed by a gravel road on the right. The Lower Middle Buttress and near Eastern Buttress are barely 50 m away on the left.

ethic

Climbing is allowed as long as no plants are damaged. No bolting is allowed. Most pegs have been cut. No damaging the rock in anyway. There are people living below so no throwing things off the cliff. There are also people living above the cliff so be respectful.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -29.667779, 30.688004

summary

Granite slab. All Slab. 1 jug 100m up. Average of 20m leadouts

description

Granite.

access issues

Bring a panga or light chainsaw. Wear jeans and change when you reach the cliff. this is on private land. Ask permission to go on. Normally people are kind but be respectful.

where to stay

Kloof or Hillcrest. Or if you VERY brave try find a place in Drummond

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -29.691381, 30.189875

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -29.825283, 30.701794

summary

Routes are listed left to right (if facing the rock).

description

This crag can only be accessed via abseil and you must climb out. There is a bolted route below the abseil station which also has rungs installed to assist with leaving the crag - you will need a belay even if using the rungs.

approach

Park on the side of the road (29°49'25.0"S 30°42'10.8"E), walk down towards the cliffs. If looking out from the cliffs there is bush to the left and grass to the right, an abseil station can be found near where the bush ends. Rungs will be visible in the rock below the abseil station - head towards these rather than directly off the cliff edge which would land you in the bush at the base of the cliff.

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -29.840801, 30.710654

description

Weather Considerations. A no go area on hot days, except for the end of the crag. If it is drizzling elsewhere in KZN, expect this crag to be dry.

access issues

These crags are on private property. It is essential to obtain prior permission from the landowner before climbing. Failure to do so will result in prosecution.

They are accessed through Craig Dixon’s property who is very welcoming at anytime. Call him before arriving or on arrival and he will let you in. (031 769 1095/082 729 2770).

Using Google Maps, look up Mr551 Road. It is property B7, a few hundred meters down from The Shongweni farmers Craft Market.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -29.864354, 30.723362

description

The climbing area known as "Shongweni" falls within the Shongweni Nature Reserve (http://www.shongwenidamreserve.africa/).

There are several crags within the reserve and most routes are "sport".

access issues

Pay at the gate, it is currently R50 per person and cash is advisable (cards are accepted, but sometimes can't be used during loadshedding).

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -29.834273, 30.722548

description

The routes are 25m long and pumpy! Climbing open handed buckets that follow ever steepening rock. Endurance, endurance, endurance! Very few crimps.

https://youtu.be/f--av9c679c

approach

Park at Shongweni Farmers Market entrance or inside the Farmer's market on Saturday's. The +-25min walk in is a bit of a bundu bash with a lot of sandy areas. Get ready for some slipping and sliding. Be aware of what you are grabbing on to because some or the trees have pretty serious thorns.

There are ropes in the more tenuous sections. Closed shoes will work better.

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -29.483597, 30.261981

description

Umgeni Valley Nature Reserve is owned and run by WESSA.

The main gate opens at 06h00 & closes at 16h00. Security is there to let people out until after 18h00. The office opens at 08h00 & closes at 16h00.

Park at the first parking lot after the main gate, under the impressively large tree.

There is a R35 entry fee payable at the office - free for the first four MCSA members to arrive each day. Climbers must sign a register, pay the fee and take a permit/receipt with them as proof of valid entry.

access issues

Road is pretty rough generally, so a vehicle with decent clearance is recommended.

As of July 2023 the first hundred metres or so before the river has now been repaired. A rear-wheel drive vehicle with decent clearance will make it. If wet a 4x4 is a better bet.

approach

Drive to the viewsite at the end of the mostly dirt road. Walk back upstream along the crest of the crag until you come to a trail that leads to Descent Gully. It is most definitely slippery when wet. Turn right to go to The Forbidden Fruit Wall, left takes you to the Easy Rider Wall.

ethic

It's a nature reserve so it needs to be treated with respect.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -30.834964, 30.394013

description

Bolted but please check the bolts some of them need to be replaced, rusted and old.

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: -28.231992, 31.193983

summary

Amazing climbing! Has a lot of styles of climbing. from sport to trad to deep water soloing. however the main form is sport.

description

Amazing climbing on some great rock. The rock feels like quartz and is quite slippery when wet. There are some amazing climbs and plenty of climbs that would be considered classics at any other crag. The climbs range from an easy 12 to a tough 29 or 30. The wide variety of styles makes this place great for everyone. There are some great boulder problems, sport and trad multipitches, deep water solos , trad and sport single pitches, top-rope access, and even places to just practice clipping. This is why it has earned the local nickname: The Valley of Dreams.

approach

From Durban to campsite:

Head north up the N2 towards Richards Bay for about 90km.

Take the Gingingdlovu turnoff, turn left and head north west on the R66 for 103 km

Continue onto the R34 still heading north west away from Richards Bay. stay in the road for about 30 km.

The gate is to the right. If you go over the big bridge then you have gone too far.

The Dirt road is in good shape but it has big bumps for the water channels. All cars should be able to do it easily but its just a warning as it might be harder when it is wet.

There is a path from the campsite to the river which is roughly 100m away.

where to stay

The owner of the south side of the river has erected a campsite for us. This is the only place suitable for camping and the nearest town is a great distance away and I wouldn't suggest staying there. There is a rondavel with a gas fridge and a few beds. There is also a smaller hut for two people. There is a spot for tents. There are also 2 decks to relax on. 1 of them is undercover and the other not. Over all you can comfortably fit 12 people without tents there however with a bit of work you could accommodate up to 25. There is a gas fridge (not very effective) and a gas cooker but I would suggest you bring your own gas cooker or braai stuff. There is a place to braai but the best dinner option would be a potjie as there are a few fire pits. The closest town is a big distance away so remember to pack everything to avoid having to go to the shops.

Bookings for Klipkloof farm (where the camp is located) must be made ahead of time, contact Zanele (+27 72 112 8829).

Alternatively consider staying at Matatane (https://matatane.co.za/).

ethic

Keep the campsite clean and don't break things as the owner has people living right there. This is to help you if something does go wrong with the house or its appliances. They are also there to prevent people taking your things as it has been known that people who are walking down the river run up to the hut and go "shopping". However this is very rare. It is etiquette to help with the "gardening" as the climbs aren't often climbed.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -29.813392, 30.788678

history

Due to building operations at No 47 Montgomery Drive, the usual access is not available and the only way to get to the Main Wall and Wormhole Sector currently (October 2007) is via a 30 minute walk along the top of the crags from the Jan Smuts Wall.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -29.574625, 30.321325

summary

https://srockgym.co.za/

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: -1.140229, 27.032039

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -27.439299, 29.167507

summary

Sport Climbing near Vrede. +/-30 routes, grades up to 29/7c+. Short routes on soft Sandstone.

description

The crags are situated on a farm and are all bolted, mostly short lines. There are just over 30 routes graded 12 to 29 or so. The soft sandstone rock tends to be quite soft and chunks can often break off. It is wise to use a helmet for belaying, especially on newer routes or when opening routes.

access issues

The crags are situated on the farm Langberg about 10km out of Vrede. From the N3 you can get onto the R103 either from Villiers or just out of Warden. After Vrede on the R34 follow the signs to Memel. About 9-10km further on this road you should see a colourful farm stall, just after this take the first farm road to the left marked "WGP Wessels - Koefontein". Drive down the road and keep left when it forks. Drive to the farm house.

approach

Topos available at the farm house.

where to stay

There is a well stocked house with cutlery, plates, cooking equipment, fridge etc. for about R40 per person, per night. The house sleeps about 10. Booking is esssential, please call Jacana Trails on (012) 346-3550. There is a Spar supermarket in the town of Vrede. The area also offers some hiking trails and mountain biking.

history

Developed in 1996 by Stephan Swanepoel.

Summary:

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -0.012174, 29.281967

summary

Lots of sport routes and bouldering options on the boulders scattered all over. Also a few multi-pitch climbs on Rensburgkop, the main mountain.

description

A very popular climbing area with lots of routes to choose from. This area offers climbing for everyone from beginners to experienced climbers and is a superb learning spot. All climbing is on sandstone but after years of access most of the loose slabs have broken off and the climbing is generally really good. It is also a very good bouldering area with many options. The area is easily accessible by vehicle. There are still lots of options for new routes.

access issues

The area is on private land shared by the Bald Ibis Hiking Trail. Please contact the owners prior to accessing. They are friendly people and welcome climbers to the property. Please call Ansie on +27 (0) 82 926 1155 to arrange access. Be sure to book before arriving and pay before leaving. A day visitor fee may apply. Avoid bird nesting sites on the main crags.

approach

The climbing area is close to Swinburne just off the N3 highway between Johannesburg and Durban. The nearest major town is Harrismith which is 25km away. The road into the property ends at the camping area, which is also where the first boulders can be found.

where to stay

There is comfortable accommodation on the property, which can also be booked with Ansie. Accommodation includes the Appin Farmhouse, a number of double rooms with en-suite ablutions and The Barn, a climber's hangout with loads of beds. Facilities are adequate. Contact Ansie to book on +27 (0) 82 926 1155. Alternatively you can find comfortable accommodation at the Hound and Hare (Riverview Country Inn) in Swinburne with a friendly bar and good food on offer.

ethic

Testing was done a few years ago on the different types of bolts and it was found that on slab, vertical or slightly overhanging routes the stainless steel Hilti HSA-KR M10x110mm can be used. Please note that for anchors of multi-pitch routes or steep routes these bolts will not be strong enough. Either the M12x110mm bolt or the Upat UKA3 glue-in capsule with 100mm stainless threaded bolts can be used. Almost all of the other glue's and readily available bolts were tested and not always found to be sufficient. Please take extra care in testing where you place your bolts as there are many hollow sections of rock. Remember that when you bolt a route you do not own the rock, and that many others would also like to climb it, so bolt it for everyone and not only yourself. Some of the routes are still bolted with unrated U-bolts and some dodgy placements can be found, but for the most part all routes are safe. If you would like more information about bolting in this area please contact the Mountain Club of South Africa.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -27.765454, 29.361656

summary

The climbing is on sandstone similar to that at 'Mt Everest' and at Kranskop.

description

Climbing on a very large semi free-standing buttress. ie Buttress Rock. The buttress has a huge corner / open book running up the middle.

access issues

The Witkoppe crag is located in the Free State about 80 km east of Harrismith. It is situated on a remote part of the large farm "Nonpareil" owned by Mr. Gideon Willemse.

approach

Turn off the N3 just north of Harrismith and take the R772 to Verkykerkop. ie the Mt. Everest Resort road. Continue along the road for 48 km and through the village of Verkykerkop. Then travel a further 20 km and turn left onto a dirt road to Driebult and Wikoppe. Travel a few kilometres until the farm 'Nonpareil' is seen on the left. This is the home of Mr.Willemse. Map

Mr.Willemse is friendly towards climbers and will give you a key to get through the many gates on the way to the cliff, which is above a remote stock kraal. (Whilst the party of three were climbing the Willemse family came out in their private aeroplane to have a look at what was happening.) Visitors must phone before arrival to make arrangements to collect the key and get final directions through the farm. Phone (058) 6223467 . The road from the farmhouse to the crag is rough but can be negotiated by a normal sedan, however, a bakkie would be much better.

where to stay

Private camping below crag with good water source during summer. Bring own water during winter.

ethic

Scope for development. Permission required.

history

Crag information was provided by Gavin Raubenheimer of Peak High Mountaineering. All the routes described below were opened by Dennis Gramkow, Michael Steiniger and Gavin Raubenheimer during October 1999

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -28.174922, 29.177282

description

access issues

Climbers must report to reception on arrival and again before leaving the resort. No climbing is allowed on the climbing wall unless the prescribed fees have been paid. No climbing is allowed after sundown. No climbing at all is allowed at the Bushman Complex.
No pets (this is a game reserve, full of animals), loud music or open fires except in designated braai areas.
If a section of rock is marked with an X, written in chalk, don’t touch those features as the X indicates that the rock is loose. Don’t try knock it off.

where to stay

Mount Everest Game Farm
Camping is permitted only in the designated areas.

ethic

Do not drop any litter, however small, including cigarette butts, finger tape and tissue paper! Take all this rubbish home with you. If you find rubbish, please pick it up, you are helping us all.
If you must take a crap at the crag, go at least 30 metres down-hill and away from the cliff and make sure you dig a hole and cover it with dirt, sticks, rocks afterwards. Never do your business in a cave or corner. Do not leave toilet paper lying around; it must be buried or carry it out.
If you take a pee, do not do it close to the cliff, make sure it’s in a place that is not sheltered from rain, otherwise it stinks.
Small tick dots are fine but tick marks over 3 cm are an eyesore and are unnecessary except for the hardest to see hand or footholds. Brush them off afterwards! Please brush chalk-caked holds after you have finished with a route, especially if it’s a route that is sheltered from rain.
NEVER use wire brushes!! They will destroy this rock. A soft toothbrush is fine.
Respect others; try not to be too loud and think carefully about smoking, bringing your dogs or crying children to the crags; these things can spoil the pleasure for others.
‘IP’ written on the rock in chalk or a piece of tape/plastic on the first bolt means the route is ‘In Progress’ and the route is a closed project. Do not try these climbs unless you have permission from the route setter.
Do not remove other peoples draws from a route even if they have been hanging there for weeks. Some locals like to leave projects clipped-up. You may of course climb the routes using the draws left up.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -29.195558, 27.449688

summary

The closest rock to Bloemfontein. Worth a weekends stay in the good safe campsite. It has a swimming pool in the summer. 20 rand entrance fee is currently payable at reception.

description

Ladybrand is on the Free State-Lesotho border, and as such catches much of the Maluti weather. If it snows on the Malutis, it will be bitterly cold in Ladybrand. Generally it is a summer rainfall area with typical afternoon thunderstorms and dry, cold winter days. The valley results in the sun being blotted out even earlier, so the cold settles in very early on winter afternoons. As the area is wooded most climbs catch a good deal of shade which helps to ward off the summer sun.

access issues

The climbs lie in the Little Rock resort (formerly known as Leliehoek) which is picturesquely set in a small wooded valley 3 minutes drive from the Ladybrand town centre. The park has the usual camping and chalet facilities as well as a small bar and a sizeable and most welcome outdoor swimming pool. Ladybrand is well catered for with many shops, banks, garages and places to eat. There are plenty of other things to do in the area. The town boasts an 18 hole golf course, hiking and biking trails as well as being the gateway to the Lesotho Highlands. To book, contact the Little Rock reception at: 051–924 0260.

approach

5 to 15 minutes walking. Complicated topos and scattered routes on small boulders make for interesting route finding. Ask a local if you can find one!

where to stay

To book, contact the Little Rock reception at: 051–924 0260. Tariffs as at February 2011 are: Day fee: R20/R10 (Adult/Child) Camping: R145 (2 people) /R20 per child extra Chalets: R300 (2 people, 1 bedroom) R495 (4 people, 2 bedrooms) R550 (6 people, 3 bedrooms)

history

Not much is known of any climbing before 2000 although it is certain that some casual activity took place before this time. Paul Middleton and Tim Calder paid numerous visits from February 2000 and cleaned and top roped many of the routes on the Little Jesus Wall as well as the Campsite Boulders. At the end of June 2001 Joffrey Hyman and Russ Dodding visited and together with Middleton and Calder bolted the first five routes—two on each of the Picnic Boulders and one on the Little Jesus Wall. More ‘top rope’ development took place but the next major investment was at the hands of Hot Rock in September of 2002. They bolted a total of 13 routes over a two week period opening up the first major line on the Big Jesus Wall as well as bolting existing routes on the Cracked Egg and Commander 9.5 boulders. After this, things quietened down again, until Jacques Raubenheimer from Bloemfontein started adding routes (slowly!) again in 2007. This was followed by a bolting course (presented by Jacques Raubenheimer) for the CUT Mountaineering Club (from Bloemfontein) in June 2010, where the 8 course attendees (which included the Ladybrand local, Chris Kleynhans) added 16 routes in one weekend, effectively doubling the number of bolted lines.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -29.270092, 26.894363

summary

Scattering of routes on the top of a mountain.

description

Exposed rim cliff, cool boulders and a big cave. Long walk in but worth a days visit for sure.

access issues

To Visit Thaba Nchu you must obatain a permit at R15 per person.

Permits can be obtained by contacting Nico Combrink (0827755100, combrinknl@telkomsa.net) or Uwe Siegert (uwe.siegert@gmail.com, 072 175 6119). They will respond with a pro forma, you deposit the fees, they issue the permit

approach

Drive from Bloemfontein to Ladybrand via Thaba Nchu on the N8 and just after going through Thaba Nchu on your right you will see a lane of trees with the sign “Glamorgan.” Turn in there, and at the end of the road you will find a Parking spot underneath some bluegum trees(MCSA signboards show the way).

The walk in will depend on where you want to be. From the car park, follow the track, marked with a white footprint, past an old ruin. About an hour later you should reach a nek, turn 90 degrees right and follow the ridge to the highest poin. At the north face of this buttress is War Zone. Walk left around the top to get to the Newsroom (with potential for a number of great routes). Sky News—currently the only route in the Newsroom area. The top is a good place to enjoy the view.

The walk to the cave from the car park is very confusing, but the best thing to bear in mind is that the basic idea is to play connect-the-dots with the few boulders at various levels along the mountain, until you reach the South side of the last of main crags directly above the farmhouse. From here go straight over the neck, and when you see the cairn, just follow the path to the cave

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: -28.842842, 27.490108

summary

Bolted adventure routes.

description

This privately owned farm is extensive and is situated just outsite the small Eastern Free State town of Clocolan on the Van Rooyen family farm in the Clocolan district. The Current owner is Mr. Piet van Rooyen. Activities include fly-fishing, hiking, mountain biking, bird watching and climbing. The farm has numerous single and multi Pitch Sport routes, all of which are easily accessible. Multi Pitch sport crags include Bokant Boeks se Huis and Ronnie se koppie. Single Pitch sport crags include Campsite, Kloof and Ronnie se koppie. Boulder spots are present at Fairies Playground and the Campsite. Be sure to tape up thoroughly, the rock is very abrasive.

approach

The farm is situated on the Clocolan Marquard road, 10 km outside Clocolan. From Bloemfontein follow the Thaba Nchu road past Ladybrand. The farm is located approx. 180 km from Bloemfontein. For the office turn off at the white Umpukane sign on left if coming from Clocolan. Do not turn off at this sign if going to the campsite or lodge. Keep going on the Clocolan Marquard road and turn left at the Willow tree (No Sign). Keep going on this road and turn right just before the half built house. From here on keep left for the campsite and keep going up the mountain for the lodge. All visits to the farm should be booked well in advance. Please contact Nico Scholtz on +27 (51) 401-2414 (office hours) or 082 381 9322 (all hours).

where to stay

The campsite has showers, toilets, and a small open air kitchen. Hot water is obtained from a donkey. At present costs are R50 p.p. per night. The campsite is divided into five smaller sites for more privacy. Each of these has a tap for running water and a braai and grill.

ethic

The farm has exquisite San art. Please do not touch or wet the art.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -28.858436, 27.557148

summary

Sport climbing on pocketed sandstone with grades from 27 to 33..and a single 16.

Topos can be found on ClimbZA, here.

access issues

YOU MUST CALL THE LANDOWNER A COUPLE OF DAYS BEFORE YOU CLIMB, TO CHECK ITS OK.

approach

5 minutes from the town of Clocolan in the Freestate

where to stay

The closest and nicest place is ‘Ben Nevis’ which is a cherry farm and winemaker with a small campsite.

ethic

DROP NO LITTER, MAKE NO FIRES. To avoid unnecessary erosion, try stick to the path which we have marked with cairns (please keep adding to them!).

history

The crag was discovered by Hector Pringle, then developed by Hector Pringle, Dirk Smith, Marc Efune, Andrew Pedley, Dylan Vogt, Jahne Theron and Nic Grech-cumbo. Paige Claassen and Jon Glassberg made the FA’s of many of the routes. All bolts provided by the Mountain Club Of South Africa Johannesburg and Magaliesberg Sections. BIG thanks to them.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -28.605477, 28.225343

summary

Meiringskloof Nature Reserve is situated 3.3 kilometers North East of Fouriesburg.

description

Meiringskloof Nature Reserve is a holiday destination in the Eastern Free State provenance. The closest town being Fouriesburg.

access issues

No climbing without a permit. Permit can be obtained from Meiringskloof reception.

where to stay

Make use of Meiringskloof Nature Reserve camping or chalets available

ethic

Do not bolt any of the potential crack (trad) climbs. Bolting is only allowed if permission is granted from Meiringskloof owners. Exploration welcome.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -28.511061, 29.019738

summary

There are many boulder fields in this area yet to be explored. There is also cliff bands but not sure of the rock quality as its similar to Golden Gate Parks rock quality.

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -32.667036, 20.963223

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -33.919041, 18.643359

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -33.341187, 19.716372

summary

Home to some of the best routes in Africa.

description

Home to some of the best routes in Africa.

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -32.051955, 18.671859

summary

This vast area has some of the best climbing in the world. Pakhuis bordering, multiday grade 6 alpine stuff, sport and everything in between.

description

Get to Cape Town. Drive North.

access issues

This is a vast area, with multiple landowners, see each subsection for specifics

approach

N7 North of Cape Town

Summary:

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -34.302229, 19.846136

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -33.864644, 22.192434

summary

South-Eastern region of the Western Cape Province. Notable areas include Toverkop for trad (home to SA's first recorded rock climb), and Oudtshoorn - SA's one and only limestone sport climbing area.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Rock climbing