Mpumalanga Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Mpumalanga 1,613 routes in Region

6 5 13 10 3 15 7 14 18 11 2 17 4 1 16 8 9 12

1 Waterval Boven 2 The Hell 3 Sabie Gorge 4 Kaap se Hoop 5 Blyde River Canyon 6 Manoutsa/Strijdom Tunnel 7 Magageni 8 Botshabelo 9 Batwa Valley 10 Jim's Crag 11 Buffalo Gorge 12 NGwempisi George 13 Gold Rush 14 Croc River Canyon 15 Bundu 16 eZemvelo 17 White Rock 18 Mount Lichen

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: -25.744685, 30.138885

1.1. Waterval Boven 976 routes in Crag

8 6 7 5 4 3 2 1

1 The Mayhem Crags 2 Tranquilitas 3 Wonderland Area 4 Triple Tier Crags 5 The Restaurant Crags 6 The Island 7 Sport Valley 8 The Waterfall Crags

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.654346, 30.360716

summary

Probably Africa's best sport climbing destination with more than 1000 routes on bullet-hard quarzite surrounded by wooded valleys full of animal and plant life.

description

Welcome to Boven! If you are reading this, there is a good chance you are at Africa‟s best sport climbing destination! Or at the very least, you are considering making a trip here. Boven has over 800 sport climbs ranging from grade 8 to 34 (French grade 4 to 8c), and plenty of excellent trad climbing too. The rock is bullet-hard quartzite and the climbs are typically vertical to gently overhanging with the odd overlap. Technical endurance climbing is the predominant style and precise footwork and finger strength will go far! The crags give views over remote wooded valleys and hills rich with animal and plant-life; the bases of the climbs are flat and shady, the crags are quiet and the walk-ins are a breeze. It is one of the few climbing areas in the world where weather is good for climbing almost all year round. Rest-day activities include game viewing in the world famous Kruger National Park, or just basking I the African sun. What more can we say…..the grass really IS greener here.

access issues

Climbing Permits Wonderland

The Wonderland crags are spread over multiple private land parcels including Mountain Club of South Africa , Mahem and Tranquilitas. The Mountain Club of South Africa has negotiated for all climbers to have access to these properties via a climbing permit.

Permits will be offered at discounted rates to members of the Mountain Club of South Africa or guests at Tranquilitas/Mayhem. Following are the permit types and costs:

Day permits R60. Day permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas members R30

Weekend permits R100. Weekend permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas members R50

Month permits R600. Month permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas R300

Annual R1600. Annual for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas R1 200

By purchasing a permit you agree to the Conditions & Waiver Free parking to permit holders at Tranquilitas reception only and in demarcated spaces. Permits will be mandatory and people found without one will be treated as trespassers.

Permits can be purchased from Tranquilitas reception via SnapScan or Zapper. For annual permits e-mail book@tranquilitas.com.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

approach

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. This road is currently (2019) in much better condition, especially during wet weather.

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website.

The other service is the Lowveld Link (www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

where to stay

There is a great climbers‟ lodge in town which is a good base if you are alone. Dorm beds and inexpensive double rooms are available. There are normally a handful of road-tripping foreigners around and the odd local.

Roc n‟ Rope Adventures (www.rocrope.com) (+27 (0) 13 257 0363) own the lodge and they are extremely helpful (Gustav wrote the Guidebooks since 2004 so he knows his way around the crags!).

Or, if you want to stay up in the hills, 5 minutes walk from the crags you can stay at Tranquilitas Adventure Farm (www.tranquilitas.com). It must be one of the most pleasant climber campsites on the planet! Some of the best crags at Boven are not more than a 5 to 10 minutes walk; there is a swimming pool, hot showers, fridges and great fire sites. Mornings are spent drinking coffee and relaxing on the lawns until 11-ish (when the crags go into shade) and climbers gather around camp-fires during the evenings.

Tranquilitas Adventure Farm has a large campsite with several shady trees. There are also chalets, safari tents, luxury tents and a luxury farmhouse for groups of 6 - 12.

book@tranquilitas.com or +27823880100.

There are also a few self-catering houses and lodges in the area that can be rented, some can accommodate larger groups (up to 15).

1.1.1. The Mayhem Crags 122 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -25.680565, 30.371089

summary

Climbing is on compact technical walls and arête climbing on amazing quality rock above a valley that is deep and unspoiled.

description

ALL INFORMATION PROVIDED HERE IS DIRECTLY FROM THE 'BOVEN CLIMBING ROTES' PDF CLIMBING GUIDE by Andrew Pedley & Gustav Janse Van Rensburg.

The PDF guide is available free for download at http://www.climbing.co.za/

The setting has a ‘wilder’ feel added to by the complete lack of any cellphone signal. Beautiful indigenous trees grow along the base and the crags are quiet except for the sound of the waterfall and the baboons.

access issues

Climbing Permits Wonderland. The Wonderland crags are spread over multiple private land parcels including MCSA, Mahem and Tranquilitas. The Mountain Club of South Africa has negotiated for all climbers to have access to these properties via a climbing permit. Permits will be offered at discounted rates to members of the MCSA or guests at Tranquilitas/Mayhem. Following are the permit types and costs:

Day permits R60. Day permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas members R30

Weekend permits R100. Weekend permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas members R50

Month permits R600. Month permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas R300

Annual permits R1600. Annual permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas R1200

By purchasing a permit you agree to the Conditions & Waiver Free parking to permit holders at Tranquilitas reception only and in demarcated spaces. Permits will be mandatory and people found without one will be treated as trespassers. Permits can be purchased from Tranquilitas reception via SnapScan or Zapper. For annual permits e-mail book@tranquilitas.com.

Orubeni farm has graciously granted access on the basis that climbers absolutely stick to the following rules: - ONLY WALK IN BY THE APPROVED ROUTE - KEEP DOGS ON A LEAD AS THERE ARE ANIMALS ON THE FARM - NO FIRES EVER - NO LITTER, INCLUDING CIGARETTE BUTTS AND TOILET PAPER - DO NOT WALK IN VIEW OF THE FARMHOUSE – DO NOT WALK OUT AFTER DARK…YOU MAY BE CONFUSED FOR A THIEF AND SHOT (THIS IS A WORKING FARM)

approach

These crags are on the Orubeni farm, south of Tranquiltas, accessed by a 15 minute easy walk from the Tranquilitas Campsite. The main 2 access points are respectively the Easy Gully leading to Jack’s Playground and Burning man Sector ; or the Narrow Gully leading to the Library, Corruption and Mythology Sectors.

where to stay

https://tranquilitas.com/

history

Developed since start of 2015.

1.1.2. Tranquilitas 254 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.673984, 30.366160

summary

Closest crag to the Tranquilitas Campsite making it very accessible. A good range of climbs from very easy to intermediate.

description

Facing Northeast it gets sun most of the day making it ideal for winter climbing. The crag contains a large variety of routes ranging from positive gradient beginner climbs through to long, exposed routes providing an intermediate challenge.

access issues

Climbing Permits Wonderland

The Wonderland crags are spread over multiple private land parcels including MCSA, Mahem and Tranquilitas. The MCSA has negotiated for all climbers to have access to these properties via a climbing permit.

Permits will be offered at discounted rates to members of the MCSA or guests at Tranquilitas/Mayhem. Following are the permit types and costs:

Day permits R60. Day permits for MCSA/ Tranquilitas members R30

Weekend permits R100. Weekend permits for MCSA/ Tranquilitas members R50

Month permits R600. Month permits for MCSA / Tranquilitas R300

Annual permits R1600. Annual permits for MCSA / Tranquilitas R1200

By purchasing a permit you agree to the Conditions & Waiver Free parking to permit holders at Tranquilitas reception only and in demarcated spaces. Permits will be mandatory and people found without one will be treated as trespassers. Permits can be purchased from Tranquilitas reception via SnapScan or Zapper. For annual permits e-mail book@tranquilitas.com.

approach

From the Tranquilitas Campsite take the path Northeast until you reach the cliffs. Scramble down (Cairn) past the Rubiks Cube Block. The first, most Westerly section, is the Grunt area. Starting there and heading down you'll pass the Malaria Area, Good and Evil Area, The Creche and Finally Als Bells at the far Eastern side.

where to stay

Tranquilitas Adventure Campsite is right by the crag making it a natural choice. Tranquilitas Adventure Farm has a large campsite with several shady trees. There are also chalets, safari tents, luxury tents and a luxury farmhouse for groups of 6 - 12.

book@tranquilitas.com or +27823880100.

https://tranquilitas.com/

1.1.3. Wonderland Area 202 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.666754, 30.364768

description

Nice variety of climbs with easy access from 'Tranquilitas' and beautiful views. Climbs are easy to find and the area has a nice variety of routes. The area is nice and cool after 11.

access issues

Climbing Permits Wonderland The Wonderland crags are spread over multiple private land parcels including MCSA, 'The Mayhem Crags' and 'Tranquilitas'. The MCSA has negotiated for all climbers to have access to these properties via a climbing permit. Permits will be offered at discounted rates to members of the MCSA or guests at Tranquilitas/Mayhem. Following are the permit types and costs: Day Permits R 60 Day permits for MCSA/ Tranquilitas members R30 Weekend Permits R100 Weekend permits for MCSA/ Tranquilitas members R50 Month permits R 600 Month permits for MCSA / Tranquilitas R300 Annual R1600 Annual for MCSA / Tranquilitas R1 200 By purchasing a permit you agree to the Conditions & Waiver Free parking to permit holders at Tranquilitas reception only and in demarcated spaces. Permits will be mandatory and people found without one will be treated as trespassers. Permits can be purchased from Tranquilitas reception via SnapScan or Zapper. For annual permits e-mail book@tranquilitas.com.

approach

A path on top of the cliff provides multiple paths / scrambles to reach nearly each individual crags. They are also all linked so walking along the base is possible throughout.

where to stay

Tranquilitas Adventure Campsite is 10 minute walk from the crag making it a natural choice. Tranquilitas Adventure Farm has a large campsite with several shady trees. There are also chalets, safari tents, luxury tents and a luxury farmhouse for groups of 6 - 12.

book@tranquilitas.com https://tranquilitas.com/

1.1.4. Triple Tier Crags 60 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.653333, 30.350301

description

When standing on top of 'The Gaper Buttress', one looks down onto 'Triple Tier Crags' on the other side of the gorge. It's an amazing place to climb and explore, there are some top class routes and lots of potential, but it just requires a little effort. Some routes here are reached by abseiling onto a stance and then climbing out.

approach

The best access to 'The Restaurant Crags' and 'Triple Tier Crags' is to park at Tegwaan Country Getaway (https://www.tegwaan.co.za/). Driving from the main road of Boven turning to Tranquilitas, turn left after 2,5km into Tegwaan ; or from the other direction, 4,5km from the Tranquilitas Camp on your right. Drive straight towards the main houses (close the farm gate behind you) and park by the sign that says "Parking". Walk straight over the dirt track onto a hiking trail past some dams and follow signs for the "Stone Circle Trail". Along the trail, go over a T-junction onto a Y-split about 30m further. Take the left split and follow your nose towards the crags. Close to the little gorge where a small crag called The Gym is found, there is another Y-split in the path. The left trail goes to the Gym and Restaurant/Gaper areas. The right split goes to Triple Tier.

1.1.5. The Restaurant Crags 61 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.650811, 30.347752

description

This was the first area to be developed at Boven, back in the early nineties, and still hosts some of the highest quality climbing in Boven. The crags are situated around the Elandskrans Resort which used to be a very popular campsite but at the time of writing is closed. If you visit one crag here make it the Restaurant Crag!

approach

The best access to the Restaurant crags and Triple Tier is to park at Tegwaan Country Getaway (https://www.tegwaan.co.za/). Driving from the main road of Boven turning to Tranquilitas, turn left after 2,5km into Tegwaan ; or from the other direction, 4,5km from the Tranquilitas Camp on your right. Drive straight towards the main houses (close the farm gate behind you) and park by the sign that says "Parking". Walk straight over the dirt track onto a hiking trail past some dams and follow signs for the "Stone Circle Trail". Along the trail, go over a T-junction onto a Y-split about 30m further. Take the left split and follow your nose towards the crags. Close to the little gorge where a small crag called 'The Gym' is found, there is another Y-split in the path. The left trail goes to 'The Gym' and Restaurant/Gaper areas. The right split goes to Triple Tier.

At the time of writing the Elandkrans Resort is closed. It is possible to pass through the resort to access the crags but probably not a great idea to leave your car here.

1.1.6. The Island 49 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.646306, 30.348386

description

The distinctive "island" of rock; the locals refer to this outcrop as "Loskop", literally meaning loose (standing) head; try to keep yours screwed on. The climbing has an old school feel, one of the first to be developed in Boven along with the Restaurant. The crags are not as steep as some of the newer areas but for some 4-star technical face and slab climbing this is the place to visit, especially for 18 to 26. These days these crags don't see much traffic these days and the forest is taking back the crags; don't let this put you off though, have a retro day and tick a load of old classics.

approach

Park at the Elandskrans Resort, as described for 'The Restaurant Crags'. Walk past the swimming pools. At the corner of the basketball court a good path leads out over the grassy plateau. After approx 300 meters, take a faint path on the right, perpendicular to the main path. This leads to a large cairn and a view across to the Island. Go steeply down (no path) into the little valley, into the trees, then up the other side on a path that leads up past some big cairns to the middle of the Island.

1.1.7. Sport Valley 105 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.647979, 30.344691

description

Sport Valley is the little valley on your left when you approach the main gate of the Elandskrans Mountain Resort. Some of the climbs here are of top quality, some real gems. The Coven has a handful of 5-star classics and 'Flying is Fun' is possibly the best crag for very easy routes (8 to 12).

1.1.8. The Waterfall Crags 123 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.641516, 30.357399

description

Waterval Boven means 'above the waterfall' in Dutch .…and the waterfall is pretty damn impressive! To look at it from the tourist view-point is great, but to climb on the crags beside it is much more exhilarating! There are a number of crags in this area, with a stack of classic "atmospheric" sport and trad pitches. Make the effort to climb here at least once on your trip, a day down at the Waterfall crags is always memorable, mostly for the right reasons!

1.2. The Hell 41 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -25.522131, 29.270450

description

This is a trad climbing area at the confluence of the Hellspruit and Olifants River upstream of Loskop Dam offering about 41 multi-pitch climbs, usually 4 to 5 pitches long. It is in a beautiful wild setting with an abundance of animals including fish eagle, buffalo, eland, giraffe, ostrich, crocodile, hippo and leopard. The area gets very hot, making it a perfect winter venue.

access issues

Access, including permits, must be arranged with the Mpumalanga Parks Board Tel: 013 262 4190.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

• Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA)
• Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website

approach

Two to two and a half hours, including about 20 km of dirt roads, which can be very sandy and rutted so it’s advisable to travel in a car with 4 wheel drive.

The length and difficulty of the walk-in depends on where you climb, if on the cliffs below the camping then a short 5 minute walk. However, if on the spectacular North and West faces of the Hell Gorge – separated by the Hellspruit – then the walk in is a much steeper hour or more, including wading the Olifants River.

where to stay

Camping is on the cliffs above the Olifants River, which offer many shady spots. While there are long drop toilets, they are seldom used and never cleaned, so using the bush is a cleaner option – don’t forget a spade to dig a hole though. There’s a good camp-fire area.

1.2.1. The North Face 27 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.2.2. The West Face 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.2.3. Helspruit Kloof 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

1.2.4. Barbel Pool Crag 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.3. Sabie Gorge 41 routes in Crag

2

2 Routes in the gorge

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.088226, 30.779306

description

Situated in the gorge below the Sabie Waterfall. Lots of indigenous vegetation and some interesting birds. (Louries and even Fish Eagles to name a few.) Facing South, and being above 1050m above sea level, the sun is rarely a problem. The routes can become very wet and slippery during a heavy rainy season. You can take a swim in the river or pools or take a jump from higher up into the pools. Please check for submerged rocks first. I wouldn’t drink the water!!

access issues

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

approach

Drive out of town towards Graskop. Just as you cross the bridge at Sabie Waterfall, turn left and park in the parking area. Walk through under the bridge and follow the footpath for about 130m. To the right there is an easy path down. Stay to the right, back towards the waterfall. Height: 12 – 18m

1.3.1. The Cauldron 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

description

These routes are on the cliffs flanking the waterfall above the pool and most of them are accessed by rappeling down from chains to a hanging belay above the water. The routes follow from left to right (clock wise) when faced from the bridge. Makes for some good spectator value. These routes are not very high but pumpy for their grades. Warm up before doing them. Take your shortest 30m rope. If you don't mind the potential swim or some wet climbing shoes or chalk bag, the more adventurous can give it a bash at deep water soloing.

1.3.2. Routes in the gorge 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.088324, 30.778895

description

Downstream from the bridge

1.3.3. Donkerhoek 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

description

Around the corner from Aalwynkrans there is an open book with 4-5 routes. Start on the little platform.

1.3.4. Treebeard’s Towers 17 routes in Field

Summary:

All Sport climbing

description

Next to and in the shade of an old Yellow Wood, (Treebeard) there are a couple of pillars. Check out the Louries if you’re lucky.

1.3.5. Bouldering 4 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

description

CFE.. Boulders in Sabie are abundant, just needs to be cleaned up.lots of projects just waiting to be climbed and lots of Problems needing a second ascend.

1.4. Kaap se Hoop 50 routes in Crag

27 1 22 21 3 18 16 19 20 26 23 24 12 7

1 Living the Dream 3 Cave 7 Spandex 12 Dark Wing 16 Skin Doctor 18 Bear boulder 19 Carrot Sandwidge 20 Ouma Joe 21 Proximity 22 Uno Play 23 Autocrat boulder 24 Cracker Jack 26 First Impressions 27 Battleship

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -25.593295, 30.772714

description

Most informations extracted from KAAPSEHOOP BOULDERING GUIDE by Donovan Willis, 2017, with his express authorization to reuse pictures and descriptions.

The bouldering is on pocket-like and slopey sandstone boulders. Many easy problems have not been documented in this guide. Amongst the sea of lowballs which are great for kids, scattered are a couple of great problems.

access issues

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

approach

Drive from Waterval Boven towards Nelspruit on the N4. About 50km from Waterval /Boven is Ngodwana and a factory paper mill. Take a signed turn-off right to Kaapse Hoop. Drive for 10minutes and the town and boulders will come into view. Drive into the town and park at the start of the walking trail.

1.4.1. Living the Dream 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.590635, 30.773140

approach

Boulders near this: DAB, Battleship, Just Imagine

1.4.2. Just Imagine 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

approach

Right next to Leaving the Dream

1.4.3. Cave 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.591071, 30.771442

approach

Boulders near this: Skin Doctor boulder

1.4.4. Ezekiel 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

1.4.5. Ginger Bleazard 0 routes in Boulder

approach

Boulders near this: Ezekiel

1.4.6. Power Ball 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

approach

Boulders near this: Madam Butterfly, Roundabout, First Impressions

1.4.7. Spandex 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.595387, 30.769719

approach

Boulders near this: Dark Wing

1.4.8. Submarine 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

approach

Boulders near this: Madam Butterfly, Pachi project

1.4.9. Madam Butterfly 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

approach

Boulders near this: Pachi project, Roundabout, Font Slab, First Impressions, Snap It

1.4.10. Roundabout 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

approach

Boulders near this: Madam Butterfly, Snap it

1.4.11. Snap it 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

1.4.12. Dark Wing 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.595008, 30.770001

approach

Boulders near this: Spandex

1.4.13. The Sapling 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

approach

Boulders near this: situated on the outskirt of the boulder field, past First Impressions and Dark Wing

1.4.14. Wild Ones 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

approach

Boulders near this: Roundabout (Walk toward the road)

As you enter Kaapsehoop turn right and walk perpendicular to the road, this boulder is situated next to another one which has fallen off it.

1.4.15. Pachi Project 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

approach

Situated 20meters from madam butterfly, as walking to the escarpment. Hidden

1.4.16. Skin Doctor 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.591322, 30.771400

approach

Boulders near this: Carrot Sandwidge, Knees for Free, Uno Play, Proximity

1.4.17. Knees for Free 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

approach

In front of Carrot Sandwidge

1.4.18. Bear boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.591298, 30.771582

description

Just behind carrot sandwich

1.4.19. Carrot Sandwidge 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.591322, 30.771440

approach

Boulders near this: Skin Doctor, Knees for Free

1.4.20. Ouma Joe 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.591599, 30.772814

approach

Boulders near this: Carrot Sandwidge

1.4.21. Proximity 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.590901, 30.772065

approach

Boulders near this: Uno Play

Walk into the cave system, as you walk out the other side, the problems start above your head.

1.4.22. Uno Play 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.590852, 30.772444

approach

Boulders near this: Proximity

1.4.23. Autocrat boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.594528, 30.768996

description

About 15-20 meters behind cracker jack

1.4.24. Cracker Jack 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.594805, 30.768824

approach

Boulders near this: First Impressions

1.4.25. Where is my mind ? 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

approach

Boulders near this: Huff and Puff, Snap It, Madam Butterfly

1.4.26. First Impressions 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.594373, 30.769100

approach

Boulders near this: Cracker Jack

1.4.27. Battleship 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.589740, 30.774041

1.4.28. Huff and Puff 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

approach

Situated next to Where is my Mind

1.5. Blyde River Canyon 5 routes in Crag

2

2 Rondawel Complex

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -24.559847, 30.792527

summary

Excellent trad climbing with beautiful views.

description

Excellent trad climbing on some of the deepest precipitous cliffs of any canyon on the planet with beautiful views of the world's largest green canyon.

access issues

The crags outside the Blyde Canyon Forever Resort are on SANParks property and climbing on these crags is not permitted. These crags, which are accessed via the Rondawel Lookout parking area, are patrolled by SANParks officials, who will arrest any climbers on them.

The crags within the Blyde Canyon Forever Resort are situated on land owned by SANParks, but leased by Forever Resorts. SANPark officials do not patrol this land as it is the Resort’s responsibility to protect it. While no official access has been granted by Blyde Canyon Forever Resort to climb the crags on this land, climbing has also not been forbidden. Climbers visiting the area are asked to respect the sensitivity of access at present by being discrete and vigilant. While you are free to open new lines, bolting is strictly prohibited.

where to stay

Accommodation at the Forever Resort is the most convenient, especially for climbs in the resort. There are also plenty of accommodation in the area that is close to the climbs.

history

Blyde means "glad" or "happy" in Dutch, a name derived from a voortrekkers' expedition. The 'happy river' was thus named in 1844, when Hendrik Potgieter and others returned safely from Delagoa Bay to the rest of their party of trekkers who had considered them dead. While still under this misapprehension they had named the nearby river where they had been encamped, Treurrivier, or 'mourning river'.

1.5.1. Taxi Crag 0 routes in Crag

1.5.2. Rondawel Complex 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -24.572232, 30.795173

1.5.3. Forever Resort Complex 0 routes in Crag

1.5.4. Eden Complex 0 routes in Crag

1.6. Manoutsa/Strijdom Tunnel 117 routes in Crag

3 4 2 5 1 6 7 11 10 9 8

1 The Far Side 2 The Other Side Of Far 3 The Far Side Of Far 4 Wall Of Fear 5 Main Crag Left 6 Gully A 7 Main Crag 8 Main Crag Right 9 South West Wall 10 Double Green 11 Main Crag on Side of River

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -24.455073, 30.614210

summary

The cliffs tend to be north facing and as such will be very hot in summer. The best time to climb will be winter, although spring and autumn will not be too bad. There are a lot of black-jacks present in the early winter which will make the descents a little less fun.

description

Manoutsa or Strijdom Tunnel is a good traditional climbing area in Mpumalanga. The area was first 'climbed' back in 1975 and slowly more and more routes have been added. The climbing is generally very good with superb views of the lowveld. The routes are all natural mostly 5 to 7 pitches long. The rock varies from one climb to another, but is normally excellent. It tends to be rather featured making apparently blank faces quite climbable, while providing excellent gear in both vertical cracks and on the faces themselves. The cliffs tend to be north facing and as such will be very hot in summer. The best time to climb will be winter, although spring and autumn will not be too bad. There are a lot of black-jacks present in the early winter which will make the descents a little less fun. Take plenty of water, and allow for a 2 hour descent back to the car.

access issues

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

approach

From the N4 travelling towards Waterval Boven take the road to Lydenburg just after the Machadadorp Toll Plaza. After about 15km, turn left onto the R36 towards Lydenburg. Continue along the R36 through Lydenburg and Ohrigstad and down the Abel Erasmus pass to the tunnel. The climbing area is just upstream of the JG Strijdom tunnel on both sides of the road. This road leads down the escarpment on the Abel Erasmus pass towards Tzaneen. Manoutsa is broken down into a number of climbing areas, each with their own parking, approach and descent. They are thus described in more detail in these sections.

where to stay

The Restaurant is about 1.5 hours away. Alternatively, continue to the Manoutsa Campsite a few kilometres beyond the tunnel. Chalets and camping are available.

1.6.1. The Far Side 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -24.454055, 30.623368

1.6.2. The Other Side Of Far 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -24.453107, 30.621278

1.6.3. The Far Side Of Far 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -24.452604, 30.619626

1.6.4. Wall Of Fear 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -24.452825, 30.618035

1.6.5. Main Crag Left 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -24.453649, 30.616785

1.6.6. Gully A 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -24.455312, 30.616079

1.6.7. Main Crag 32 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -24.457269, 30.613340

1.6.8. Main Crag Right 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -24.460557, 30.610378

1.6.9. South West Wall 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -24.459886, 30.608965

1.6.10. Double Green 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -24.459321, 30.608946

1.6.11. Main Crag on Side of River 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -24.457038, 30.604670

1.6.12. Ox Wagon Buttress 1 route in Crag

Summary:

1.6.13. Long River Walk 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.7. Magageni 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -25.430249, 29.340659

summary

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

description

The crags consist of an East and West Wing, split by a waterfall with a deep pool at the base. Counter-intuitively, the East Wing faces west (morning shade) and the West Wing faces east (afternoon shade). The West Wing is the main event with routes between 100 and 150m high. It is very hot in the morning and some of the faces still catch sun in the afternoon. You can find shady routes here though if you start climbing late enough. The East Wing is shorter (up to about 60m high) and not as extensive. There are, however, some excllent routes. It works well to do a couple of routes on the East Wing from very early in the morning, to then have a snooze through the heat of the day, and start a big route up the West Wing at about 3pm. The descent gulley/track descends to the east of the East Wing. There is a very scrappy-looking crag further east of this with one route on it but it really doesn't look worthwhile. It has been dubbed the Scrap Heap. At the far western end of the West Wing the crag is much shorter. There are currently no routes here but there appears to be some good rock. It looks like it owuld be easiest to access this by walking west along the top and then down past the far end of the crag. The routes are listed from left to right, looking up. True right is on the right when looking downstream.

access issues

The JHB MCSA gets access here once a year for a meet, usually in September. Consult their meet sheet. The land is privately owned and, although the land-owner is climber-friendly, he values his privacy and his property very highly. So if you want to climb here, go through the MCSA and FOLLOW ALL THE RULES GIVEN BY THE LANDOWNER! Usually he requires: 1) Names and telephone numbers of members of your club who will be in the group. 2) Car registration numbers. 3) Time of arrival. 4) Everyone will have to sign an indemnity form on arrival. The gates are normally locked and the land-owner makes an arrangement with his employee to open for climbers at a pre-arranged time. DO NOT BE LATE BECAUSE THERE IS NO CELL PHONE SIGNAL AND YOU WILL PISS EVERYONE OFF IF THE GATE-KEEPER IS KEPT WAITING! There are a number of dwellings on the property. Please stay well away from these and respect the privacy of the land-owner and his family/guests.

where to stay

There are no facilities. Camping is in the thorn trees by the cars, next to a usually dry dam. NO FIRES ALLOWED! THE RISK OF VELD FIRE IS TOO HIGH! The campsite is above the cliffs. It is a 15 to 20 minute easy walk down a dirt track to the base of the cliffs. DO NOT DRIVE DOWN THIS ROAD - YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO GET BACK UP AGAIN!

ethic

NO BOLTING!!!!

history

Magageni is an amazing wild African climbing venue on the escarpment overlooking Loskop Dam. Routes range from 50 to 120m and the rock quality is mostly excellent. The area was climbed at mostly in the '60's and '70's and since then there has been little activity. This means that most of the routes are easier than about grade 20 (or else they have aid) so the place is a playground for first ascents and first free ascents. But you better hurry up because the routes are falling thick and fast.

1.7.1. The East Wing 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

description

Follow the descent gulley/track all the way to where it curves around to the left. It soon runs parallel with the river, directly towards the crag. Just follow the track to a boma, then the continuation path after this through the forest to the big pool. The East Wing is the crag up to your left. Scramble up to the base of the crag and walk left to the routes.

1.7.2. The West Wing 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

description

Follow the descent gulley/track all the way to where it curves around to the left. It soon runs parallel with the river, directly towards the crag. Just follow the track to a boma, then the continuation path after this through the forest to the big pool. The West Wing is the main crag up to your right. Cross the river and scramble up to the base of the crag. Walk right along the base to the routes.

1.8. Botshabelo 182 routes in Area

8 7 4 9 3 2 11 1 10 12 13 5 6

1 Metropolis 2 The Playground 3 OG sector 4 Monolith 5 Down by the River 6 Big Daddy's crack. 7 Wetlands 8 Graveyard area 9 The Ark 10 The Mines 11 Blockbuster sector 12 Ridgeline boulders 13 Gully sector

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -25.712605, 29.433715

summary

Botshabelo is a bouldering area located just outside Middelburg. The best bouldering spot within a decent distance of Johannesburg and Pretoria.

description

The rebirth of Gauteng bouldering after the loss of the great "Ezemvelo". Botshabelo is located just outside of Middelburg. We have no idea who is in charge of this place but rumors suggest the land was part of the "land Claim" act. The guys seem super friendly and open to climbers and happy to see some business coming in.

In terms of safety it seems good. However it is still South Africa so be careful. Don't leave valuables in the car and stay vigilant. This is important as popularity for the area grows.

In summer this area might just be unbearable but winter will offer some decent temps. The rock is amazing for climbing! If the area had more bigger boulders it would even compete with the big boys! A great place to learn about outdoor bouldering and to make your skin thick.

R25 cash per person to get through the main gate.

access issues

Take some money with. Sometimes you'll have to pay R25 entry.

Access seems good for now.

Make sure you load the map on your phone before you enter the area. Signal is quite spotty and you'll be lost without it.

approach

Park your car next to the graveyard and follow the path. If you have a 4x4 you could potentially park right next to the area. (be careful though)

where to stay

No official best place to stay but Middelburg offers accommodation in abundance as well as some potential surrounding campsites. Staying in town is the best bet for quick access though.

ethic

When opening new lines please take a picture and update the guide. This way we can share the psych! Breaking loose rock is acceptable for safety reasons. If you find a good line you can do some "gardening" but be reasonable. (nothing unnecessary).

history

The first boulders were opened in 2013 and uploaded onto the crag absolute legends. If you ever read this, thank you, if it wasn't for you we would never have known. This is how it was later found and when more development took place.

1.8.1. Metropolis 13 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.712086, 29.446253

summary

Scenic, not overgrown, easily accessible, with some big boulders.

description

What sets this area apart from the rest of Botshabelo is that it is not overgrown as . The walk in is very easy with no bundu-bashing needed.

Although most of the boulders are in the shade most of the day its only barely; the boulder face might be in the shade but you will be in the sun while on it as the sun is almost directly above. the

Late afternoon is the best time of day to go visit this area.

1.8.2. The Playground 4 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.711750, 29.437146

summary

Probably the most accessible boulders. You can park your car and start climbing.

description

Having full cellphone service in the area makes finding boulders much easier. A lot of boulders are on one level so minimal going up and down when hiking.

approach

After entering the main Botshabelo gate, you'll notice a fenced-off house. Take a left turn as soon as the fence ends and you'll find yourself on a well-maintained dirt road. Continue on road till the road ends. Park there.

1.8.3. OG sector 13 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.711122, 29.441163

description

The first area climbed at.

You have full cellphone service in this area.

access issues

Make sure you load the map on your phone before you enter the area. Signal is quite spotty and you'll be lost without it.

approach

A few 100 meters after entering the main Botshabelo gate, you'll notice a fenced-off yard on your left. Take a left turn as soon as the fence ends and you'll find yourself on a well-maintained dirt road. Continue on road till the road ends. Park there.

1.8.4. Monolith 43 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.709310, 29.414963

summary

This area has a great concentration of big boulders.

1.8.5. Down by the River 3 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.714215, 29.440576

summary

Known for its beautiful scenery and flat landings this area is one of the crow jewels.

description

This area has full cellphone coverage. Makes navigating a lot easier.

access issues

This area might not be accessible during he rainy season due to the rocks that cross the river being underwater. There is a possible way around if you drive across from the Graveyard on a horrible dirt road.

approach

Walk through Metropolis and past the fat upper lip boulder. Go down towards the river to see the rocks that cross the river.

1.8.6. Big Daddy's crack. 1 route in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.715605, 29.437494

summary

Looking like a butt crack when viewed from across the valley this area holds some impressive boulders.

description

This area is the most densely populated bouldering area. With quality boulders all around. Even a few highballs can be seen.

access issues

The area will most probably only be accessible during winter. During the summer the river rises and crossing over the rocks (past fat upper lip boulder) will likely not be possible.

There are other ways to get to these boulders but none of them have been tested. You can drive over the old bridge past the graveyard area. There is a dirt road that travels along the top of the hill but unsure if it will lead all the way to the boulders.

approach

Approach 1 tried and tested during winter. Hike down to the Fst Upper Lip boulder and make your way to the river. If the river is low enough there will be more than enough uncovered rocks to make crossing the river possible.

Approach 2 not tested but can be possible. Take the main road all the way past the graveyard turn off. Continue straight pas the old church on your right. When you get to the old houses turn left and keep left. There is a road that leads down and over the river about 100m from the old house. Stay on that dirt road past the Ndebele huts. Follow this road till it ends.

1.8.7. Wetlands 0 routes in Field

1.8.8. Graveyard area 18 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.707739, 29.413404

summary

This area is directly down from the graveyard. About 200 meter towards the river you will find the boulders

description

A couple of nice lines to climb

access issues

Make sure you load the map on your phone before you enter the area. Signal is quite spotty and you'll be lost without it.

1.8.9. The Ark 28 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.710754, 29.417554

summary

This area runs along a long rounded ledge. In the summer this ledge overflows with water creating a beautiful red and black contrast.

access issues

Make sure you have the map open and loaded on your phone. Once you start heading down into the gorge you won't have any connection.

approach

Before entering the graveyard turn left and follow the footpath past some trees. There is a clearing in the rocks on your right that you follow down to reveal the rounded ledge.

1.8.10. The Mines 6 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.712589, 29.417669

summary

This area holds a lot of promise. Some highballs with clear open landings are waiting to be claimed.

access issues

Access seems good for now.

Make sure to have the maps loaded before you enter Botshabelo. The signal is quite spotty and you'll be lost without the map.

approach

Continue downwards from blockbuster area to arrive at The Mines.

1.8.11. Blockbuster sector 33 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.711751, 29.419082

summary

This is a amazing area consisting of good size boulders and awesome steep roofy climbing.

access issues

Make sure you load the map on your phone before you enter the area. Signal is quite spotty and you'll be lost without it.

approach

Walk on the foot path and as it trends into the boulder field you continue towards the river where you eventually find the "Oscar nominee" boulder.

1.8.12. Ridgeline boulders 14 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.712835, 29.422926

description

The boulders running along the ridgeline between the gully area and the blockbusters area.

access issues

Make sure you load the map on your phone before you enter the area. Signal is quite spotty and you'll be lost without it.

approach

Approach on the footpath and the boulder field is located on your right.

1.8.13. Gully sector 6 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.713372, 29.429491

summary

The area suited at the top of the gully. Some modest yet fun boulders.

access issues

Make sure you load the map on your phone before you enter the area. Signal is quite spotty and you'll be lost without it.

approach

Walk along the foot path all the way until you reach the gully.

1.9. Batwa Valley 54 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -26.276613, 29.936553

description

This crag can only be accessed by permission so please make sure you get permission to climb here so the place wont get banned.

Contact Franz

franz.fuls@gmail.com

Some photos at https://plus.google.com/photos/104731246486753333606/albums/5757886123199859937

1.9.1. Chocolate Factory 20 routes in Boulder

Summary:

1.9.2. Solitare 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:

1.9.3. Tweeling 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

1.9.4. Zombieland 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

1.9.5. Platanna 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

1.9.6. Shroom Section 7 routes in Boulder

Summary:

description

The home of Mushroom Rock. Please note: NO CLIMBING ON MUSHROM ROCK. THE LANDOWNER IS TRYING TO REGISTER THIS AS NATIONAL HERITAGE.

1.9.7. Afrikana 0 routes in Boulder

description

No problems opened as yet. Much of the rock is soft, an where not, bad falls are prominent. May be a place to set up a top rope for fall protection or maybe bolt? A huge white owl was seen nesting in a hole the rock face on one of the soft sections in 2011. Please be considerate when exploring here.

1.9.8. West Wing 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:

1.9.9. Helde akker 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

1.10. Jim's Crag 0 routes in Crag

description

Apologies for possible incorrect location, I'm sure it's around this area please update correct location once acquired.

history

http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/pdf/ClimbZA_JimsCrag.pdf

1.10.1. Jim’s Crag 0 routes in Sector

1.10.2. Olifantshoek Buttress 0 routes in Sector

1.10.3. Cow crag 0 routes in Sector

1.11. Buffalo Gorge 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.516612, 29.584603

description

The farm offers various activities and camping spots. See the website or contact Ryk for details. Day visitor fees are R50pp. Cell reception on the farm is very limited. There is a longdrop at the top of the crag close to the one 50m abseil point. Although the website says you'll manage with a normal car, it's probably best to not attempt driving up to the crag without a vehicle with significant ground clearance - the first part of the track is badly eroded(2011-01-29). The owner is Ryk Diepraam: 013-245 1049 083 528 9586

approach

http://maps.google.co.za/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&oe=UTF8&msa=0&msid=212438244707500917472.0004b3d4bd43192ed94f1&ll=-25.545801,29.516273&spn=0.063588,0.112867&t=h&vpsrc=6&source=embed

history

http://www.buffalogorge.co.za/

1.12. NGwempisi George 8 routes in Crag

3 2 1

1 Coffee Shop 2 Red Light District 3 Little Holland

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -26.683667, 30.691763

summary

little Trad crag on the banks of the Ngwempisi River

description

Most information extracted from "Ngwempisi - Route Guide for Rock Climbing, Amsterdam, Mpumalanga" by Gareth Frost

access issues

On the farm of Christo van Aardt. Christo van Aardt has been kind enough to allow us access to his farm so please contact him prior to visiting the area. It may not be necessary to call upon him at his house but just phone ahead to let him know you are coming. Christo van Aardt – 082 4453325 / cvanaardt@pgbison.co.za

approach

Amsterdam is situated on the Swaziland border just to the north of Piet Retief and east of Ermelo. The town mostly revolves around the forestry industry in the area. The town is on the junction of the R65 (Ermelo) and the R33 (Piet Retief / Carolina) roads. From the junction of the R65 and R33 in Amsterdam, travel on the R65 towards Ermelo for 1.9Km then turn left onto a dirt road. Travel on this road for about 8Km, crossing over the Ngwempisi river, then turn left at the sign for farms AEA 8&9 and follow the track to the first house on the right. (Christo’s house). Continue on the track, past the next house on the right, to the sign for Ngwempisi lodge.

where to stay

There is accomodation on hte farm - Ngwempisi Lodge. Contact Bouwer van Aardt to make a booking. Contact Details: Bouwer van Aardt – 082 8047357

ethic

So far only trad climbs have been opened in the gorge. There is a rare species of bird (Bald Ibis) residing in the gorge, so although there is potential for bolted routes, this area would not be suited to sport climbing as frequent visits by large numbers of climbers, often associated with sport climbing, could infringe on the bird’s habitat.

1.12.1. Coffee Shop 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: -26.685068, 30.692450

1.12.2. Red Light District 0 routes in Cliff

1.12.3. Little Holland 0 routes in Cliff

1.13. Gold Rush 63 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -24.735786, 30.855174

description

Gold Rush is a Bouldering area situated around the Treur Rivier near Grasskop, Mpumalanga. The area is currently divided into 14 main sections, (see map) which are all easily accessible via a short walk, 5 to 18 min, from the cars. Scenic and enjoyable hiking is also on the menu, as we have permission to roam about farm.

access issues

It is essential to notify both farmers in advance of any intended visit.

Contact Neil Margetts at 083 669 3028 or Gustav Janse van Rensburg at +27 (0) 13 257 0363 or 082 753 3695 for these details and the current padlock combination.

approach

To get there from Johannesburg or Pretoria: the best is to first drive to Lydenburg via Dullstroom or via Machadodorp, the latter being a better road but includes being stung by a nasty toll gate. From Lydenburg avoid going up to Sabie unless you are inclined to want the windy scenic adventure of Long Tom Pass. Instead turn left, pick your way through town and right onto the road to Ohrigstad. About 36 km outside Lydenburg turn right again onto the R533, and tootle up to Pilgrims Rest. Continue through Pilgrims Rest and wind your way up to Grasskop. At this point it may be appropriate (if you are not car sick) to take a possible pancake diversion.

There is another alternative route which is quicker but more complicated and prone to one getting lost. Continue down the N4 past Boven or via Schoemanskloof (R539) to a point where one turns left at the road to Sudwala Caves. This is 5km on the Nelspruit side of where the N4 and the Schoemanskloof (R539) join. After 7 km turn right to Sabie and after a further 15 km you will get a T junction at a Railway Station, this time turn left to Sabie. After another 19 km down this road you will get another T junction, turn right and continue for a for about 10Km into Sabie. Pass through Sabie on to Grasskop.

Once the pleasures of Grasskop have been negotiated continue out of town on the road to Gods Window (R532) From the bridge outside Grasskop travel 19 km to London Country House, 22 km to get to the gate on the map on the previous page, and 26.5 km to get to the gate at Erasmushoop for camping.

where to stay

There is self catering accommodation at London Country House (in fact 2 houses) 3km back along the road. These are spacious colonial style old farmhouses done up reasonable smart with all bedding, cooking and eating utensils, large kitchen, cosy lounge with fireplace and other trappings to make an enjoyable stay.

There is also camping at Erasmushoop farm a few km down the road next to the cars. Climbers are also permitted to sleep in Coitus Cave which can sleep up to 6 people or 3 couples. Although this camping is very rustic with no facilities at all but for the river for water and a fireplace (no fire permitted by Coitus Cave), this does provide a truly tranquil and beautiful setting to really be at one with nature.

Prior booking is essential for both the camping and London Country House (013 764 2376).

ethic

In order to make sure we always have access to Gold Rush, the following rules must be adhered to when visiting the area.

• No dangerous or reckless activities permitted.
• Take home all litter and refuse, (including fruit peels and cigarette butts).
• There must be no unnecessary destroying of any vegetation, except by prior arrangement.
• No interference with any animal life to be allowed.
• No fires allowed at all, except at the campsite under very controlled conditions.
• No soap or any other detergents or chemicals allowed in or near the river.
• No drunken or explicit promiscuous behaviour allowed.
• No playing of loud music/radios.
• No Graffiti or any defacing of the rocks other than normal climbing use.
• Toilet activities must be more than 80m from any permanent water and no trace must be visible after the activity.
• Be polite, and courteous to all staff and management of the land owners.
• The area is to be used for climbing and the following other activities are not permitted: fishing, quad or any other motorised biking, hunting, and any other activity which does not comply with the law of the country.
• Do not arrive before dawn or leave after sunset.
• At least one MCSA member per party.

1.13.1. Waterfall 4 routes in Field

Summary:

1.13.2. The Maze 0 routes in Field

1.13.3. Nuggets 14 routes in Field

Summary:

1.13.4. The Forest 0 routes in Field

1.13.5. The Lost Valley 13 routes in Field

Summary:

1.13.6. Cartoon Land 14 routes in Field

Summary:

1.13.7. The Potholes 18 routes in Field

Summary:

1.13.8. Water Boulder 0 routes in Field

1.13.9. The Near Side 0 routes in Field

1.13.10. The Godfather 0 routes in Field

1.13.11. Atomic Bomb Boulder 0 routes in Field

1.13.12. Pocket Land 0 routes in Field

1.13.13. Black Overhangs 0 routes in Field

1.13.14. Block Head Boulder 0 routes in Field

1.14. Croc River Canyon 22 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.440055, 30.972554

summary

ACCESS Park at entrance three at the riverside mall. Walk toward the Government Building and take the path behind the building/ fence, by passing the entrance of the building. Take a walk behind the building on the faint path, until you come close to the gate on the otherside of the building. Turn left through the bushes by passing on old pump house. Walk down the path steeply until reaching the river. Turn left. A few minutes walking on the faint path leads to the first route. The access can be quite overgrown and it may be best to contact some locals. Beware of snakes, Black Mamba’s have been seen on the path.

description

Despite being in the middle of the town the crag has a very wild feel to it Hippos and Crocs have been spotted at the crag

1.15. Bundu 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.386188, 30.985552

summary

Moon rock

access issues

No access issues to date

approach

From the entrance of eBundu follow the road up past reception and head in the direction of boom gate. Just before the boom gate take a left and then the second left again. This road leads you to the top of the moon rock where you can park. From the top parking walk towards the left on top of the cliff until you find a faint path heading down. Take this down and right which will drop you off at the main face.

1.16. eZemvelo 0 routes in Crag

access issues

From 2009: Good day. I am representing the management of the game farm for the time being. Climbing in the Ezemvol Nature Reserve is not allowed. Because of the environmental impact. A study is being done on the impact of climbing in this area. I am requesting that this post is removed from the forum. It will take time to get access to this area. If any other people access this area, no access will be granted to any climbers in the future and no future access will be arranged.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

1.17. White Rock 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.555022, 31.119194

summary

White Rock Adventure Lodge is situated 840m above sea level. It is near the base of a massive granite outcrop called Witkop Mountain.The mountain forms part of the crocodile gorge mountain range. This is in the sub tropical area of Lowveld Mpumalanga. It is part of the Croc River Mountain Conservancy. The Conservancy offers lush indigenous vegetation. This includes Amazing bird Sightings and Wildlife on your doorstep! And so much more.

access issues

The crag and parking etc. is private property and the owners right of admission is reserved. Any individual making use of this access arrangement agrees to the conditions stated below.

Entrance fee is R30, this gets you access the the crag and pool for a swim after your climb.

Please pay the entrance fee and sign the visitors book upon entrance.

Please note:

Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is consider a high risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property, and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts to the owners at the lodge. No dogs are allowed at the crag.

approach

From the parking take the path on the bottom of the pool area, in the general direction of the crag. Here you will find a path leading through some trees. Follow this path until you reach a cairn. Here the path splits in two. 1) The path on the left will take you to the bottom section of the crag and base at 'Wussy Ladder'. 2) The path on the right goes along the base of the tree line. It will start to head left and through the tree line after about 300m there is another split the path on your left will take you to the centre of the crag or straight up, to the top right section. The first route you see will be 'Two Dodgy Bolts'.

where to stay

You can arrange great accommodation at the lodge follow this link for online bookings and enquiries http://www.whiterocklodge.co.za/ or contact 071 376 7285

1.18. Mount Lichen 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.517011, 31.174180

1.18.1. Mount Lichen 2 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -25.517295, 31.174037

summary

Mount Lichen is a granite sphere located in the Mara Crocodile River Reserve. It is located on the outskirts of Nelspruit.

access issues

rive from Nelspruit on the N4 towards Malalane, 26km outside of town you will find the Mara road on your right, turn right here and go through the boom gate. Access through the boom gate should not be a problem a friendly "we are coming to climb normally works". Continue down this road for 1.6km and park on the shoulder of the road (make sure the vehicle is well out of the way). Here you will find the path that heads up the mountain.

approach

From the car park follow the well-marked path to the top of the mountain this will lead you to the base of the main crag.