Malawi Guide

Summary:

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Seasonality

Sport climbing, Top roping and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -14.949697, 34.715519

summary

Climb Malawi is socio-economically inclusive community in Lilongwe, coordinating rock climbing activities in Malawi.

The Climb Centre in the capital Lilongwe is the heart of the most active climbing community in Malawi. The bouldering gym opens everyday Mondays-Thursday 09.00-20.00; Fridays 08.00-17.00 and Saturdays-Sundays 10.00-16.00.

On most weekends, outdoor climbing trips are organized.

To encourage local participation, we operate on a by-donation model: a minimum suggested amount can be paid by those who can afford to pay and those who cannot afford to pay even that are still welcome to come and climb (pay whatever they can afford or volunteer with us in exchange for membership)

approach

From the M1 and Area 18-10-30 crossroads (cross-junction) take the road going down to the Area 18 cemetery. Turn left on the second turn into area 18 where there is the red and white radio tower. Take the immediate right turn just before the shops and follow the road as it curves and then turn right again (there is usually a cargo truck parked by the side of the road), the dirt road looks like a dead end but Climb Malawi is the last plot on the left and there is always a sign outside.

Location also available on google maps, but often misleading because it guides you to the other side where the road does not connect . Use it together with these direction.

history

Founded in 2018 by Tyler Algeo

Summary:

Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: -14.534310, 34.501109

summary

Climbing at Mulundi in characteristically sharp granite holds. On the border between Malawi and Mozambique at Lizulu, Ntcheu.

description

Mulundi Hill (1665 m), in the Kirk Range, is an imposing wall located in Ntcheu district, about 5 km south of Lizulu trading center (when approaching from Lilongwe), in the southern part of Malawi’s Central Region. It is located 120 km south of Lilongwe City (or a 2.5 hours drive) in direct proximity to the M1 (Malawi’s main highway).

Likely to have company on the approach and spectators while climbing. Kids from the host community are always welcome. Have respect for their presence even when it inconveniences you. Remember you are the visitor in their area.

access issues

Landowners are the community who have granted permission and allowed for outsiders to come and climb.

approach

When coming from Lilongwe you park at Ganizani's Tea Room (parking fee MWK2,000 per vehicle per day) which is on the right of the M1. Cross the road and walk North East towards the hill. The first sector is only a 15 minutes approach.

where to stay

Dedza is the nearest town 20 minutes South of Mulundi. It has some mid-range accommodation places to stay. Camping is also allowed on the hill, but there is no water up there and so the party that decides to spend the night up there must carry everything with them (Porters can also be arranged).

ethic

Sport routes. Route developer gets to decide on route naming and has final say: they can either name it themselves or leave the honour to the first ascensionist. Bolting ground-up and on abseil are both acceptable.

Climb Malawi coordinates route development and all interests must go through it.

Strict LNT

history

Mulundi was first discovered as a rock-climbing venue in late 2020 by Ed Nhlane and Petter Sundqvist from Climb Malawi. Ed was at the time based in Dedza working for an NGO whereas Petter was based in Ntcheu working at the district council. Over the following months, several exploration trips were undertaken by the two to map out the area and sensitize traditional leaders and nearby landowners about the project. On February 22, a meeting with village chiefs and a group village headman resulted in permission to develop Mulundi Hill for rock climbing being granted. Following this meeting, Ed and Petter began the work of bolting some of the most prominent lines in the area. In 2021, 8 routes were equipped with top rope anchors and one route (The Muppet) was fully bolted for lead climbing.

Efforts to further develop Mulundi Hill are ongoing and, in 2022, several of the routes were fully bolted by Ed, Petter, Joost Sikkema, Annemieke van Merkerk, Aka Lichtner and Michael Levy. In August 2023, Todd and Donette Swain developed 4 new routes at S1. In the week after, Genevive Walker, Scott Clark, and Mario Stanley conducted the first ever Climbing Clinics (Advanced Climbing and Bolting) and added 5 more routes at S2.

Summary:

Top roping and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -14.538091, 34.499862

description

Sanjike has two sub-areas namely, "Ku Mseu" the sunny side facing the road where you park and "Ku Phiri" the other side facing Chilobwe Mountain. It is the first place you come to when approaching Mulundi. Easy climbing.

approach

15 minutes Parking.

descent notes

Rap off or be lowered

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -14.536661, 34.501234

description

Moderate to hard climbing on sharp holds.

approach

5 minutes away from Sanjike. Crag goes down into the valley overlooking the Kayiya villages at the foot of Chilobwe Mountain

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -14.532020, 34.502275

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -14.532683, 34.501556

description

Long routes on single pitches or 2 pitch climbing. Beware of Africanized honey bees in many places of this cliff.

approach

40 minutes from parking and 35 minutes from Sanjike

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: -14.083353, 33.899772

summary

Local Crag within Lilongwe

description

Half an hour (33km) South of Lilongwe City off the M1. Crag is on the premised of Nathenje Hope Secondary School. Maintained by Climb Malawi.

If you like the routes there, consider donating to the crag management fund at Climb Malawi.

access issues

When schools are in session, climbing is strictly outside school hours (after 14h30) during weekdays but can climb any time on weekends.

approach

Park outside the fence of the school grounds and walk to the crag. Landowners prefer that people park outside to inside the perimeter wall.

where to stay

Lilongwe City

history

Developed by Tyler Algeo between 2019-2019. Further developed by Ed Nhlane from 2022.

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: -14.084035, 33.899649

description

Crag is an old quarry mine and is in the sun from 10 o'clock in the morning. No shaded areas. Sport routes that can also be toproped. Easy to get to even with public transport. Routes accessible from top of the crag by abseiling down the cliff from the trees and rocks.

access issues

No fees needed. However, respect school hours since crag is on school property.

history

Used to be community land between 2018 and 2019 when the crag was first developed, but ownership changed later in 2020 to private, but agreement was struck to still continue climbing as long as the school benefits from this activity (by introducing climbing to the students)

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -14.028676, 34.090089

summary

Nkhoma Bouldering Field within Lilongwe. Perfect day outing.

description

55 km Southeast (1 hour drive) of Lilongwe city. Boulders are at the foot of the lesser peak, Mbalambala Peak. Bouldering season is after crop harvest between April and November. In the growing season, farmers from the local villages make ridges and plant maize all around the boulders. Fore that reason, December-March is closed off to allow them to grow their crops without our interruption.

access issues

Climbing is allowed so long as you respect the bouldering season.

approach

Park outside the Nkhoma CCAP Church and walk up the paved road. Where the road curves to the left continue straight up along the avenue (with the big trees on both sides). The approach takes 30-40 minutes and goes past the Nsumati village which is close to the field

where to stay

Lilongwe or at Nkhoma guest houses/inns

ethic

No bouldering in crop growing season

history

Around September 2019, a year after the climbing community was founded in Lilongwe, Tyler Algeo, Vania Wang, Jotex Kunkhongo and Ed Nhlane from Climb Malawi met with the community leaders under the Group Village Head Nsumati to explain bouldering, seek permission to start rock climbing activities in their area, and discuss community benefit resulting from such a partnership.

Permission was granted and terms were agreed upon, including involvement of the local kids in the activity.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -14.030474, 34.100248

summary

The area with the Big Cross on the southern end facing to the East

description

The low hanging wall that bears the cross has some interesting cracks on the south and north that can be protected well to the top, giving rise to traditional climbing of 10-15m in varying grades.

access issues

No issues. However, place is also sacred to many Christians who go there to pray so be respectful.

approach

Walk from the parking via the first dam and take the right trail that goes past the pond, make way up to the cross which is clearly visible from the bottom.

where to stay

Lilongwe City, Nkhoma Mountain Hut, or Nkhoma town

ethic

This area shall never be bolted and the ethos is to climb the routes here traditionally.

history

Ed Nhlane, Lene Leonhardsen and Viktor Pot did some of the earlier explorations in this area in Feb 2023. Lydia Feiler and Chris Lutz established some of the modern lines there in Apr 2023.

summary

Climbing around the Mbalambala Point

summary

Climbing up to the Nkhoma Peak

where to stay

Nkhoma Mountain Hut

summary

The boulder field at the foot of the Mbalambala Peak

approach

40 minute approach from the parking

Summary:

Sport climbing, Top roping and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -15.753058, 35.050193

summary

Climbing at Ndirande Hill in Blantyre

approach

From the outskirts of Ndirande township walk towards the mountain. Wisdom Wall is 15 minutes away from Ndirande Mountain View Secondary School. Parking can be tricky (need to find a good place, usually the school and ask someone to watch over the car)

where to stay

Blantyre City

Summary:

Sport climbing, Top roping and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -15.756446, 35.045591

summary

The small hill west of Ndirande's main peak is topped by an old fire lookout. The prominent faces above the track provide a range of recently bolted routes.

Descent from all routes is by lowering off

description

The Wisdom Wall is clearly visible pyramidal feature up to the left as you reach the track. Natal Wall is a smaller pyraamid below and to the right. Cut up the hill path (no path). Scramble up some steep ground to the base of Wisdom Wall or the New Slab, trend to the right.Root crga is about 100m to the right, across a broad gully which provides a steep earthy top of the hill.

access issues

The approach passes through fields of maize. Be cautious as not to step on the ridges and crops.

approach

About 20 minutes from parking at Ndirande Hill Secondary.

where to stay

Blantyre City

summary

A steep shoulder at the north-west end of Ndirande's summit ridge

access issues

Allowed

approach

40 minutes from parking at Ndirande Hill View Secondary School. Follow the forestry road up to the shoulder between the main mountain block and the minor peaak to the north-west. The track curves round to the right. Continue on this track for about 100m after the bend, where a small path leads off to the left. Follow this path towards the buttres of the overhanging, orange-coloured rock ahead. The path crosses a dry gully, dropping down slightly, and contours round to the bottom of the slabs below the orange overhands.

where to stay

Blantyre City

summary

Venue for slab and multipitch climbing in Malawi with the longest vertical wall in Africa at 1700m.

approach

From Vicky's Shop to the Approach Slabs

where to stay

Thuchila Tourist Lodge and at Likhubula and the Hikers Nest are closest to the routes at Chambe West Face. And Mulanje Sports Club at the town.

ethic

Because of issues of theft of hangers on the lower pitches of the slab (usually P1-21, but sometimes up to P4), new developers for new routes must use stainless steel glue-in bolts where there is a high change people can steal them but can continue with bolts and hangers going further from P2.

Mulanje is a world heritage conservation Biome. Bolting is only permissible after careful consideration of the effects the proposed line will have on the sensitive environment there. Climb Malawi, Mountain Club or Malawi and Mulanje Mountain Conservation Trust need to be consulted prior to any bolting expedition (one of the 3 is fine).

Table of contents

1. Malawi 45 routes in Region

1.1. Climb Malawi 0 routes in Gym

1.2. Mulundi 19 routes in Crag

1.2.1. Sanjike 8 routes in Cliff

1.2.2. The Valley 7 routes in Cliff

1.2.3. Earth, Wind and Fire Wall 2 routes in Cliff

1.2.4. Mulundi Wall 2 routes in Cliff

1.3. Nathenje 11 routes in Area

1.3.1. Nathenje Quarry 11 routes in Crag

1.4. Lilongwe 0 routes in Crag

1.5. Nkhoma 2 routes in Area

1.5.1. Cross to the East 2 routes in Area

1.5.2. Mbalambala 0 routes in Area

1.5.3. Nkhoma 0 routes in Area

1.5.4. Boulder Field 0 routes in Field

1.6. Ndirande 13 routes in Crag

1.6.1. Fire Lookout Hill 13 routes in Crag

1.6.2. Old Crag 0 routes in Area

1.7. Mulanje 0 routes in Area