Routes in Sport Valley

The first route is at the left of the face just south of the fence. Using the bolts on the face to the right, climb the crack and finish left up the pillar to the long chains.

Climb the face just right of 'The Crack'. A short traverse to the right may be needed halfway up the route.

Climb the face just left of the arête.

Stay on the arête through overlap.

Climb face between arête and tree.

Fine balancy moves up the steep wall partway up the gulley.

Uses unusual holds up the pockmarked line left of the arête.

Line of bolts through roof. Exit up crack.

Starts left of, and shares 2 bolts on 'Stargrazer'.

Starts in crack with chockstone. Pull straight up from underneath the bulge.

Starts at a hollow-topped stone. Follow crack to wide roof crack, using some cunning. Pull up to chains on the right.

Climb 3 bolts on 'Gyppo-Guts', traverse right; pull bulge.

The old trad line that now has bolts thanks to Chris.

Cool extended boulder problem on the far right of the crag.

This climb is on the trail, 30m before the main crag is reached. Climbs the buttress just before a step leading up to the gulley.

The same as 'Prince of Darkness', but deviate neither to right nor left.

On the smooth brown wall at the left of the crag. At Bolt#2 up a seam on the right till this becomes too hard. Back to the middle (bolt#3 hard to clip) then up using the crack on the left. Maybe a bit easier if you're tall.

10m left of the lunch spot. Pull the roof on wild holds!

A route with hangers just right of 'Lucifer Goes to the Gunks' and also sustained.

Takes the thin crackline a few meters left of the main cave, past some well jammed blocks through the overlap.

5 bolts as for '666'. Step right and break through the overlap near the right end (3-4m left of the 'Black Magic' seam). Reachy.

Clip 5 bolts up '666', traverse right to a beautiful seam through the headwall directly above the cave. Take 2-3 super long draws. It is quite possible to do the route on a 50m rope. Can be done as a 2 pitch mission.

This climb starts from a u-bolt and hanger placed just right of the start of the last pitch of black magic. One can first do 'Black Magic' to warm up on or climb in from the 'Tried to Go to Heaven...' traverse from the right.

Clip first five bolts of 'The Pit' and move left, blast through the roof to the right of the 'Black Magic' seam and up the open book corner. Take a couple of long slings.

The very steep bulge has a bolt in it and anchors and is open for anyone to try..if you feel inspired.

A retro-bolted trad adventure.

1. 17 (6D,A) Climb 'The Pit' jam crack just right of the cave to a stance.

2. 20 (7D,A) Rail leftwards past the pea pod to a stance.

3. 21 (6D,A) Climb the 'Black Magic' seam to the summit.

Or just do it as one pitch with long slings and a 50m rope.

The first pitch of 'Tried to Go to Heaven...' . Climb the crack to lower-offs at a ledge. Don't blow the 3rd clip.

The open book. A bolted trad-like classic.

The blunt arête just right of 'Babies' Blood Gives Me Gas'.

Phenomenal climbing on the steep face 6m right of the 'Babies' Blood Gives Me Gas' corner.

The thin looking face just left of the corner.

The left-facing corner and roof crack. More trad stuff.

The right hand variation after the roof. Fingery.

Very height dependent. One move, one star!

Starts 5m right of the 'Howling in Hades' corner. Good warm up route.

Starts just right of 'Devil's Concubine' up a vague corner. Pull the overlap and continue up the slab above to chains.

This climbs the root-infested gulley 10m to the right of 'Devil's Disciple'. Shares chains with 'Devil's Disciple'. Expect to get your ropes damp in the wet season.

Starts up 'God of Small Things' then moves left then up on very small holds. Opened at 30! Alternative start bolted by A. Pedley, won‟t change the grade and nicer, being independent and direct. Opened at 30..! Needs a 2nd ascent.

Takes the line up the middle of the face on small holds. Superbly technical.

A fantastic line. Takes the right hand edge of the eye-catching face.

45m along from the last routes of 'The Coven'. About 2m left of the arête on the middle tower. Sort of runout at the crux.

Starts in the corner right of the arête. After clipping the 2nd bolt, rail left just around the corner. Up to lower-offs.

Starts 2m up the gulley. Climb to lower-offs.

Climb 2m right of the last route to the same lower-offs.

Follow path 15m down. Climb the South-East face of the North Tower.

Climbs the fine line on the Northern face of the North Tower.

The arête at the bottom of the access gulley. A classic!

Takes in the hand crack 4m right of the 'Visions of Cosmic Doom'. Uses the lower offs to the left or right.

The wide crack just right of 'Texas Chainsaw Massacre'.

The recess just right. Shares 3 bolts with 'MRI'. Can be awkward going right past the roof without technique. Trend back left to lower-off.

The slab just right of the arête. Head for the arête after the 4th bolt. Going straight up the face is trickier.

The prominent crackline, using the tree or traversing in under the roof to start.

Direct start is 23/24 - height dependent.

The seam 2m right of 'Rip', using anything. Climb only the seam for a somewhat more specific exercise.

Crack line just right of 'Midnight Mission'. Fine line but there is a great temptation to step right onto 'Thermal' block at the crux. Probably 18 if you're short.

The easiest break in this area. Up the corner to a recess, using 5 bolts on 'Floating on the Storm'. Step back left to 'Floating on the Storm' lower-offs after surmounting the block.

Starts in the recess just right of 'Thermal'/'Floating on the Storm'. Pull through to a ledge. Continue up the recess and arête above. Go out right to the finish of 'Stone Cold'. (If unaware of that, one can easily climb past in search of further bolt or anchor, and be disappointed.)

Takes the slanting crack just right of 'Blood in the Dust'. Continue up the arête and out right to the lower-offs at the high point.

Start up 'Frozen Flesh' crack. Move up left to climb the face just right of the arête. Finish at the same lower-offs as 'Stone Cold'.

Follows the crackline right of the arete into a shallow corner. Climb the face straight above.

The fierce-looking handcrack. Harder for midgets.

Start up 'Dying to Fly'. Move 2m left at half height to a vague seam. Climb this.

The first right leaning crack off the ledge, about 6m right of 'Doa'. A bouldery move to gain the slab.

The other right leaning crack - more technical but easier than 'Dying to Fly'. Step right from the ledge - the first 5m are off-balance. Probably 19 if you work out the moves quickly.

This is the direct start to 'Three Blind Mice', follow the crack from ground level.

From the base of the 'Three Blind Mice' crack, move diagonally right on the face to the 3rd bolt. Climb straight up, joining 'Three Blind Mice' to the top.

4m right of the ledge edge. A bit reachy. There is a lot of climbing around the 4th bolt.

The beautiful fingercrack 4m left of the corner. Start off a little ledge.

The jamcrack/layback in the corner. Finishes up the face on the left wall.

The short crack 3m right of 'Recovery Room' corner.

On face holds 1m left of 'Fly By Night' ; uses same recess in the upper reaches, and the same bolts throughout.

Face move at left hand bolt line. Climb recess above.

Face move 2m right of 'Fly By Night' avoiding the corner. Uses 'Bridget Climbs Again' bolts.

Using the corner where needed and the same bolts.

The steep face on the boulder behind 'Bridget Climbs Again' . (Sandbagged and opened at 18!)

The steep face around the corner right of 'Bolder Problem'.

This line starts lower down on the boulder, making it the longest on this face.

First bolt-line left of the crack.

Left-leaning crack in middle of face, two-bolts to anchor.

2nd bolt-line from the crack, left of the U-bolts up the left-side of the arête.

Might be Inspektor Bliksem Neer?

Just left of the arête, a short line of U-bolts, seeming to end at anchors on the face around the arête to the right.

The first route as you turn the corner to the left of 'Les Trois Meufs'. Opened by one of the local Police officers.

With so many bolted lines now on that face, it is unclear which one is actually this climb, and none of them have 6 bolts, or even 5 bolts & anchor.

U-bolts up the left end of the face with 'Les Trois Meufs'.

Up the face mid-way between the crack and the arête.

To the right behind 'Bolder Problem' is another block. Climb the crack.

The face right of the crack in the middle of the boulder.

Far right edge of the face with 'Les Trois Meufs'

Goes up the orange-grey slab 5m left of the detached pillar.

The gap between the obvious detached pillar and the main wall is a wide chimney. Two thirds up the chimney is a large chockstone. Layback up a zig-zag crack directly beneath the chockstone. Variation: Climb the route as a chimney - somewhat easier.

Two meters to the right of 'Uriel's Machine'. Starts directly beneath a small overhang five meters up. Note: A toilet brush was used to clean both 'Uriel's Machine' and 'Toilet Brush' and its name is no reflection on how one climbs the route.

Near the base of the descent gulley on the right is an obvious detached pillar. This route takes the leaning dark face.

On the northern side of the pinnacle is a large crack; if you are thin enough climb it!

6m right of 'Weigh-Less Crack' is a line going through a bulge in the face. The crux is getting past the bulge.

3m right of 'Frequent Flyer' on the same face.

Around the corner is an appealing blunt blocky buttress has a series of blocky ledges.

A face to the right and around the corner from 'Blokkies Joubert'. The route follows a series of horizontal and vertical cracks.

2m right of 'Tea For Two' starting just to the left of the flaring chimney.

Start as for '2nd Anniversary' but move onto the steep column to the right, finishing just left of the overhang.