Routes in Red Rock

Not on the main wall, but on a pinnacle which is below the east end of the approach ledge.

Start on block below rotten crack, climb along bolt line up and leftwards.

A narrow crack on a slab about 10 feet to the left of the corner. Fun and easy, can probably be led with all passive gear.

Starts about 10' left of Abbey road -- look for a couple bolts in the slabby face.

Very very run-out on lead, bad ground-fall potential, poor gear other than the widely spaced bolts.

TR from the common anchor -- start on the boulder and pull up the steep/overhanging pink face to easier ground.

Unknown sport route left of Shallow Fried Crackin. Good face climb. Anchor bolts.

Face climb to the right of Shallow fried Crackin. Good face climb. Anchor bolts.-

Crack is generally too shallow for jamming but lots of face moves keep the climbing pretty mellow. Protection is tricky with lots of passive placements and generally small cams. Tricams will work here. Bolted anchors.

I really liked this route as a lead. It is 5.8 if you use holds on the face, 5.9 if you stay in the crack. Protection is abundant although there are a couple of run outs.

Climb the face on the right inside the chimney.

Left bolt line - climbs the arete just to the right of the big chimney.

Bolt route just to the right of Cocopuss.

The obvious arrete at the front of the crag.

Climb the large varnished corner on the left side.

Featured in Climbing magazine's "America's Best 100 sport climbs" (Oct 2015). The rock is a little hollow in places, but well bolted. All pitches have a 5.9 crux which makes this route a sensational journey up a beautiful wall.

The bolted route between Red Riding Hood and Physical Grafitti, starting off raised platform left of Physical Graffiti.

P1) 70ft, 5.9, steep juggy wall. 8 bolts.

P2) 80ft, 5.8, slabby friction climbing. 8 bolts.

P3) 70ft, 5.8, a little friction, then steep juggy finish to anchor. 8 bolts.

Descent:

Option 1) climb a 4th pitch of low 5th class past 2 bolts to another anchor, maybe 30 foot, then walk off climber's left and down the descent gully.

Option 2) Rappel from the top of pitch 3, 2 x 60m ropes reach the ground with about 1 foot spare, make sure your 60m ropes are 60m!

Option 3) Rappel the route with 3 single rope rappels.

P1: start on scrubby vertical arête with lots of features and a crack for pro. Follow crack past small roof to ledge. P2: Move right to steep corner crack and continue to top. Rap station is on the backside, to the right.

A tight corner that goes through a roof and continues up a crack to the bolted anchors of the first pitch of Physical Graffiti.

About 1/2 way up Lil Red, face climb across to a long crack system and follow it to the top.