Routes in Africa for selected grade

Easy buttress starting directly out of the Kloof bed. Trending right, Double ring bolt lower-offs.

Can go natural/trad.

Can go natural/trad.

On the right side, first climb the chimney into the crack and then the final slab to the top.

Follow the bolts to the summit.

Bolted route right of Blowing up the postbox. Excellent route following a small dyke on the first pitch and plaques on the second. easy friction climbing on the 3rd pitch. Abseil down BUTPB.

Short and slightly chossy crack on the SW wall side of Elephant Rock. Anchors at the top.

SCARY! 1st pitch has 1 peg and 1 bolt and a run-out of almost 35 meters. Don't fall. Further bolts to be added soon and then the route will be much more enjoyable. Pitch 1 - Climb up the flaky corner crack past a peg to a foot ledge and a bolt. Friction up and then diagonally left to reach a hidden crack to belay on large cams. X rated pitch! Pitch 2 - Follow the wide corner crack (BD5 & 6) to belay on chockstones. Awesome! Pitch 3 - Continue up the crack crossing over to the right and up a crack system. A hard pull over a bulge to belay on a ledge. Pitch 4 - Climb up a groove with good but spaced gear past a steepening and then up the easy slab to belay in a cave. Pitch 5 - Squeeze up and out right of the cave and scramble up easy ground to the belay bolts on Hoab Hanab. Abseil down this route from here. TOPO here: http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215046/Great-Spitzkoppe-Northwest-Face-Mamba-No-5-and-Other-New-Routes

Great little route. 1st pitch easily protected, 2nd pitch no so much. Long runout on a very wide layback crack at the top. Bolts to be added soon. Topo can be found here: http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215046/Great-Spitzkoppe-Northwest-Face-Mamba-No-5-and-Other-New-Routes

Starts with a boulder move to the rock flake right over the beginning, then friction climbing to thr bulge. Then on a thin and strenous move up and scramble to the top. Rig rappel to avoid friction on the rope.

Work your way through the little overhang and continue up the scramble to the little crack. Use the crack to access the face and up to the anchor

Difficult friction climbing to the first big ledge and gets more difficult the upper section

Super good route and everyone's favorite. Follow the line to the first big ledge, move right until you can standup. Swing up left on the face and friction climb on good holds to the top.

Thin and strenous start, then friction climbing in the face up to the anchor.

Friction climbing up to the tricky face move and a lean back to get better grip at the top crack

Climb your way to the bulge/overhang into the open book, then you can lay back on your way to the face and friction climb to the anchor. Variant from the old Route. We add a new anchor on the right, to top rope the route.

Start on the right side of the crack and climb up good grips to the ledge. From there, there is a tricky friction climb on top.

Belay bolt in the middle of the three routes

The routes goes up a conical buttress. Starts near a big yellowwood tree midway between Groothoek Chimney and Black Eagle Crag below a big roof 15/20m up.

1. 30m (15) Climb diagonally right staying well Bellow the huge roof to a good ledge around the right roof corner. This is the outer edge of the ramp used by the first pitch of black eagle crag. Second half is grassy.

2. 20m (12) Follow right hand side of the corner leftward until one can step across left (grass) to a wide ledge with a big block on its middle that crosses the conical buttress.

3. 35m (18) From the left end of the ledge, climb onto blocks around the corner, then traverse right back above the ledge towards the roofs. Then diagonally left around the roofs. Climb the grey face and end up left to a thorntree & small yellowwood tree in Groothoek chimney

4. 25m (19) Climb the steep corner, first usable gear a cam about 5m up. Continue on the left wall and overhanging crack, then traverse left to a scooped out ledge with good cam placements gear below the roof.

5. 25m (15) Traverse minimaly right, then climb the face diagonally left until the base of a corner. Take the corner and head right, crossing a few birdshit covered blocks (not vultures though) until a belay ledge at the base of an obvious chimney. Opposite the crack à big yellow wood tree is a belay for ? probably black eagle crag?.

6. 25m (18) Climb the left slanting overhanging chimney above with much grunting. Good placement are available, bringing a few large cams up is worthwhile. Traverse left to bypass the roof and finish left to a good ledge.

7. 45m (13) Traverse right to the pillar. Climb the pillar then traverse back to the chimney. Finish easily to the top. Long and fun. If Pitch 6 made you swear to never climb again, this one will make you return to your senses.

Note: Excellent climbing made less serious by the proximity of Groothoek Chimney.

Climb the thin seam, splitting the buttress, to the right of Angelica’s deep crack. This is easily seen from where the path enters the kloof at the base of Sunshine Crack. Walk around Angelica’s pillar and scramble up to a ledge at the base of the crack, about 25m right of Angelica’s pillar.

1. [19] 15m Climb the crack for 10m. Step left and follow the crack to a small ledge above an overlap.

2. [15] 30m Follow the crack tending slightly left to the large halfway ledge.

3. [15] 30m From the top of a small boulder, step into a shallow open book, then make a brave move to good footholds on the right. Continue up diagonally left to the big block on a ledge. Walk past the block, about 3m, before climbing more or less straight up for another 15m.

4. [12] 30m Make a beeline for the top, avoiding the grass as much as possible and finish spectacularly up some large blocks.

Pitch 1: 50m 18: Gain the obvious crack on the left of the stance follow the easiest line up the crack system past a small block on the left with a manky piton. (20m) continue upwards until you reach a large ledge below the open book. Pitch 2: 60m 15: continue up the open book feature until you reach an obvious stance on the left of the crack. (2 people comfortably). Pitch 3:50m 16: climb up the crack until you reach a small overhang move diagonally left through the overhang and continue up the face trending left past a small tree on the left arête to a stance below a large yellowwood . Pitch 4: 50m 18: traverse right from the good stance back onto the face, trend diagonally right until you gain the right arête, bomb up the committing but well protected face until you reach the obvious stance before the easy scramble out.

The objective of this route is a lightning bolt shaped crack on a block at the top of the crag, where the gorge makes a bend. Start behind a huge boulder, true left, at the narrowest point of the gorge.' Climb up in the corner to a mantle move through an overhanging crack. Aim straight for the block, easy, and top out via the lightning crack.

Climb on the stream facing side of the block, start 2m to the left of the corner shared by slickenside, pull on good holds through overhanging bulges.

Climb on the face adjacent to the vegetated dihedral, start close to the corner

Between “KeK”and “FNJ” Skirting the first corner 2m up activates then mental focus for the route. Climb easily half way up to a roof corner crack. Pull through middle of block, with a long move to next rail. Powerful and commiting. Climb out slightly to right around corner and up straight. Easier climbing but still committing

Start at stream level and climb the obvious buttress, through a small roof halfway up the buttress

1. 21A1 Climb the corner under the big square roof and rail out left (pulling on cams) to the continuation crack. Hanging stance in the crack to the right and just above a tree.

2. 17 Follow the crack straight to the top.

Starts to the right of too legit to quit, takes the obvious crack line through the roof, easy pulling through nice overhangs.

This climb starts at a strange pocket feature at the base of the wall 40m from the left arête. Pitches 1+2 and 5+6 can be combined.

This climb starts up the crack to the right of a deep corner/crack, about 10m right of Rhamses Ramrod.

Climb up the crack system just to the right of Tutankhamuns Touche starting up the pillar on the left.

Leftmost route on the west side of Sarcophagus about 50m left of the right hand arête. Go up the slab rightwards. Share chains with Dancing with Anubis

Go up the slab leftwards. Share chains with Archimedes Screw

Start down next to the block right of Eye Of Osiris, follow up the small crack / water mark. Thin exit up slab. This is the rightmost climb on the west face.

Route starts at the granite slab, then up the crack, out right and up to the anchors. Use the crack and stay left for 15. Use the face right of the crack for 18. (Skoenlapper, Super Cool Nifty and Miena se Muis use the same anchors.)

The line of bolts following the off-width crack is Scorpion. The bolt line to the left of the crack is direct start. Variation pitch is a grade 23.

1. 19, 20m 10 bolts. Belay on big ledge

2. 16, 30m 5or6 bolts. Belay in big scoop

3. 10, 35m 2 bolts. Top out(Climb for the view)

When Abseiling and you're using 60 meter ropes, use the chains you pass as you climb pitch 3. The abseil is only 5 meters between the two point but necessary. You will be caught short on a 60 meter rope.

The lower section follow the largest area of grey rock on the South East side of the mountain. Start 150 steps to the left of the fence, which runs straight up to the rock face. Start at tha large tree growing 3m away from the rock face.

1. 18m (E2) Climb up to stance above tree inside cave-like recess.

2. 22m (D) Step up to small ledge on right and traverse right out of recess. Climb up to ledge on right. Traverse 3m right into crack and up to stance

3. 30m (E2) Move up boulder on right. Traverse round corner and up crack past small overhang to ledge with blocks.

4. 40m (E3+) Climb corner above to grass ledge. Follow grass bands via exposed crack with tree on top, and to next tree which is below major rockband.

5. Scramble 5m up to grass ledge and walk left along ledge to a chimney and recess.

6. 15m (E2) Climb up to overhang and left to stance.

7. 24m (E3) After a long pullup, follow easy rock slightly left to a bush.

8. 18m (D) Climb diagonally left to rockband and climb out right to main grass band, which divides the upper and lower sections of Hanglip.

9. 30m (F2) The upper section starts just to the right of the highest point of the grass band, where it begins to dip steeply downwards to the right. Start well to the right, going up over a series of long ledges, then move left of a pile of small blocks to an overhang. Traverse left just under the small overhang and up to a block on whicha stance can be made.

10. 15m (F2) Traverse left along ledge, crossing an open gap by climbing down 2m in an exposed position, or alternatively climbing up and jumping down from a sleng point (E).

11. 33m (F2) From the belay climb up to ledge and traverse right until it is possible to break through rockband above (very tricky on loose rock). Continue right along rock band and up to grassy ledge and stance.

12. 16m (F1+) From the top of a block mantleshelf onto ledge and climb out to the right.

13. 18m (F2) Start about 13m to the left of a square corner by climbing open book to overhang. Traverse right to cubby-hole.

14. 4m (G2) Ascend bottomless recess to another cubby-hole. Originally done on aid (F2 A1).

15. 20m (E3) Traverse to the right and then climb up to an open book recess. This recess is climbed to a stance on a grass ledge.

16. 20m (E3) Climb a crack and work out to the left by climbing up to an overhang. Complete the route by climbing out to the right.

FA: R. Barry, C. Purdham (1937-12-25)

Variation: Starting from the top of pitch 8 to near the bottom of pitch 12, this section can be climbed in two direct pitches.

Decent: If the climb is completed in daylight, a fairly quick descent, involving a short abseil, can be made in the vicinity of the first saddle behind the main peak. As this route is not easy to find in darkness, late parties are advised to contour around on the rough, bushy slopes of the next 'hump' to a more obvious route where a steep grassy gully breaks the rock faces.

To decent to Hanglip North, the descent is as follows: From the top beacon of Hanglip, keeping basically right, descend to a neck between a small koppie and Hanglip. The koppie overlooks the valley of Hanglip North. DO NOT go down the gully, but descend the slope diagonally left of the gully.

Start 10m left of Woody Wood³.

1. 35m (G1 A1) Climb the groove until the crack fizzles out. Tension left of a blade to another crack and up to stance.

2. 40m (G1 A2) Climb through the first two roofs free and then into a groove. Aid up and through (6 points) and to a ledge on the right. Continue up to a ledge to belay.

3. 40m (G2) Traverse left back into crack and up to small stance in left-hand crack.

4. 40m (G2) Move up for 5m then back into right-hand crack. Continue up this to stance below and left of a tree.

5. 30m (G2 A2) Move right and up to tree. Continue up the crack free through a horrendous crumbling roof to below the final overhang. Aid through (2 points) and belay on the right.

6. 30m (F2) Traverse right about 10m then up and back left and up a crack to scrambling ground.

Note: Hard and serious with a lot of poor rock but good runners. Recommended for suicidal maniacs. Take four pegs [in 1980, what should we take today?].