Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Namibia Windhoek Avis Dam Bouldering | |||||
V4 | 4.
Same start as 3 on the low, big jugs. Traverse left and up on jugs. From final jug, make a big move to a small hold, then up to large lip on right. (Or top out if you're bold!) | ||||
V4 | 5.
About 5m left from the low, big jugs or 4m right of the deep corner. Climb up to blunt lip. Follow the lip on small holds until the big lip (same top as 4). | ||||
Namibia Spitzkoppe & The Pontoks Great Spitzkoppe South West Wall | |||||
26 | ★★★ Herero Arch
Mixed route with some Aid A0 FA: H.Gargitter, r.Botte, M.Thaler & P.Trenkwalder, 2000 | 12, 2 | |||
Namibia Spitzkoppe & The Pontoks Great Spitzkoppe North West Wall | |||||
26 | ★★★ Mamba No. 5
Varied mixed trad and bolted route. Amazing climbing. Bolts placed to allow for aiding the cruxes. Take 16 quick-draws and a single rack of cams up to BD4 and wires plus lots of slings for threads. Bolted stances. 60m ropes obligatory. See http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215046/Great-Spitzkoppe-Northwest-Face-Mamba-No-5-and-Other-New-Routes FA: Robert Powell & richard ford, Sep 2018 | 380m, 10 | |||
Namibia Spitzkoppe & The Pontoks Boulder Valley The Gallery | |||||
26 | The Scream
Project | ||||
Namibia Spitzkoppe & The Pontoks Boulder Valley Lion Rock | |||||
26 | Pardus Inversus
A super unique line for the area! Steep route on the overhung wall at the T junction within the fractured corridor. FA: Andrew Pedley & Richard Ford, 2019 | ||||
South Africa Limpopo Wellington's Dome North Dome | |||||
26 | Knocking on Dad's Door
1
20
2
23
3
26
4
26
5
20
Start to right of WWOF up broken recess to right of flake crack. | 5, 14 | |||
South Africa Limpopo Blouberg Near The Cave Kloof Area | |||||
26 | ★★ CHOKE CHAIN
Just upstream of the roof crack of DOG STAR is an overhanging, left trending, groove with two bolts.
Note: Apparently a grip has broken off on this route and it is now significantly harder FA: Kevin Smith & Charles Edelstein | 25m, 2 | |||
South Africa Limpopo Blouberg North Wall Wall Of White Light | |||||
26 | ★★ Dream of White Dogs
1
19
30m
2
21
25m
3
18
35m
4
26
35m
5
24
35m
6
22
35m
7
21
-
8
22
-
9
19
40m
10
15
-
11
14
-
FA: Andrew De Klerk & Charles Edelstein, 2000 | 240m, 11 | |||
South Africa Northwest Province Magaliesberg Kranskloof | |||||
26 | Rainbow Chicken
1
19
2
26
Climbs the face to the left of 'Golden Goose' .
FA: Stewart Middlemiss & Clive Curson, 1989 FA: Stewart Middlemiss & M. Hislop, 1992 | 30m, 2 | |||
26 | ★★★ Sea Of Madness
The wall to the right of 'The Cruise'.
FA: 1986 | 20m, 1 | |||
South Africa Northwest Province Magaliesberg Castle Gorge | |||||
25/26 | Tarzan
Climbs the very overhanging wall on the true right of the kloof downstream of the main climbing area. This is where the kloof makes a turn to the left, but is upstream of the pinnacle.
FA: Mike Hislop & Stewart Middlemiss, 1991 | 15m | |||
South Africa Northwest Province Magaliesberg Dome Dome | |||||
26/27 | The Mission
Climbs the center of the wall to the left of 'Picture Book' (about 80m left of 'Fallen Angel'). Scramble up to the base of the wall next to a tree.
FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1992 | 35m | |||
South Africa Northwest Province Magaliesberg Tonquani-Cedarberg Complex Lower Tonquani Kloof | |||||
26 | ★★★ Finger Painting the World
50m downstream of the Cedarberg/Tonquani junction on the true left, is a gully. Scramble up the steep section of the gully and exit on the right (downstream) side of the gully onto a large ledge, immediately opposite the steep crack 'Reign Of Fire' . The route starts on the right of the ledge. The five mega bolts in a row make it very difficult to find!
FA: Peter Lazarus, 1989 | 20m | |||
South Africa Northwest Province Magaliesberg Tonquani-Cedarberg Complex Cedarberg Kloof | |||||
26 | ★★ Carrion Comfort
About 100m downstream of the Mountain Club of South Africa signpost there is a buttress. There is a crack on the downstream side, climb the steep face 5m right of this crack.
Note: Bolts replaced in 2005 FA: Martin Seegers & Darryl Margetts, 1992 | 10m, 4 | |||
26 | ★★★ The Canine Abyss
Climbs the very steep wall about 25m upstream of 'Cedarberg Crescent' (i.e. 10m to the left 'Do You Feel Like We Do' ). Start near tree fern.
FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1989 | 20m | |||
South Africa Northwest Province Magaliesberg Groblerskloof | |||||
26 | ★★★ IN THE PINK
Climbs the pink wall and roof to the left of CALCANIUS.
Descend as for SHANGHAI SURPRISE. FA: Martin Seegers & Darryl Margetts, 1990 | 10m | |||
South Africa Northwest Province Magaliesberg Hamerkop Kloof Lower Section | |||||
26 | AFTER MIDNIGHT
Climbs the steep smooth wall left of QUINTESSENCE.
FA: K. Smith, 1985 | 10m, 2 | |||
South Africa Northwest Province Magaliesberg GrootKloof | |||||
26 | ★ Bladerunner
The gully above the lunch spot becomes a (dry) scoured waterfall just beyond LEMON (a chimney). BLADERUNNER climbs the thin double crack system up the steep grey wall between LEMON and the waterfall.
Note: Trust the bolts at your peril! FA: K.M. Smith, 1986 | 20m | |||
26 | ★★ Trick of the Light
Start 2.5m upstream of DIVEBOMBER, more or less opposite a tall tree.
FA: K.M. Smith, 1986 | 8m | |||
26 | Throwing Toys
Next to ROOF OF ALL EVILS.
FA: Tim Hoole, 1991 | 15m, 5 | |||
26 | Under Pressure
Climbs very steep rock on the true right of SLAB GULLY, approximately 10m to the right of SUFFRAGETTE CITY and 5m to the right of HUNKY DORY.
FA: Stewart Middlemiss & Richard Lord, 1991 | 20m, 3 | |||
South Africa Northwest Province Magaliesberg Mhlabatini True Left | |||||
26 | ★★★ Boulevard of Broken Dreams
A superb though contrived variation to GLORY ROAD giving very hard climbing.
FA: Steve Bradshaw, 1986 | 25m | |||
26 | Myth of Fingerprints
Climbs the face to the right of TOTAL ON-SNORT past the bolts to a rail. A good wire protects the finishing moves. FA: Roger Natrass, 1987 | ||||
South Africa Northwest Province Magaliesberg Fernkloof Stormwatch Area | |||||
26 | ★★★ Vandals
Steep line first opened on natural gear. FA: K. Smith, 1991 | 8 | |||
26 | Hooded Vandal
Starts on 'Vandals', uses the first 3 bolts of 'Vandals' then breaks right onto 'Hoodlum' and continues on 'Hoodlum' to the top. | 8 | |||
26 | Mr Toad's Wild Ride
A steep natural crack line just left of FABERGE. This becomes a jelly of wasps in winter. It climbs the crack directly above the boulder with a U-bolt in it. FA: K. Smith., 1988 | ||||
South Africa Northwest Province Magaliesberg Fernkloof Mirror Mirror Area | |||||
26 | ★★ Directly Unkown
Starts from the boulders just above the lower pool. There is a dyno start with the route going left and finishing up and around the corner. The old bolts still need to be removed and must not be used at all. FA: J. Orrock, 1991 | ||||
South Africa Northwest Province Magaliesberg Narrow Kloof & Wigwam Wigwam | |||||
26 | Siouxsie and the Banshees
Set: Hector Pringle FA: Marc Efune | ||||
South Africa Northwest Province Magaliesberg Narrow Kloof & Wigwam Narrow Kloof | |||||
26 | Call of Duty
Set: Alex Bester FA: Ebert Nel, 2012 | ||||
26 | Minesweeper
Just to the right of call of duty. "This line should never have been bolted" Ebert Set: Andrew Pedley FA: Brian Weaver, 2013 | ||||
South Africa Northwest Province Magaliesberg Closed Hidden Kloof The Lower Sector | |||||
26 | The Pink Energy Orchid
Route begins at a half dead tree, runs up the right of a blocky light orange pink purple flat inclined wall. Sustained and wandering. Pumpy! MCSA/Boven Fund hardware. Opened on Trad. FA: Grant Murray Set: Dirk Smith, 2015 | ||||
South Africa Northwest Province Magaliesberg Closed Hidden Kloof The Middle Sector | |||||
26 | Middle Aged Crisis
Rebolted late 2016. 2nd, 3rd and 4th bolts seemed newer than the rest and was not replaced. May need a bolt between 4th and 5th. Take extra caution when attempting this line before more bolts are added. FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1993 | 8 | |||
South Africa Northwest Province Magaliesberg Closed Hidden Kloof The Top Sector | |||||
26 | A Pinch of Pixie Dust
Lurking at the top end of the main part of the kloof are some roofs on the right. This line cranks through the center of the ugliest one. 3 bolts. Traditional line, marked by bolts on the lip of a roof, near the top of the kloof. Bolts not replaced yet. Permission for full bolting has been granted on the condition of "not paving over the old route". FA: Michael Cartwright, 1991 | 3 | |||
South Africa Northwest Province Chosspile Lord of The Rings | |||||
26 | Halfling
Use first 3 bolts of Mourn not Overmuch. Finish on the chains of Gollum. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2004 | 10 | |||
24 - 26 | Shelob
Starts just right of the tree stump. a sustained route that climbs straight up to end on DONT DECK chains. Used to be 24 until a crucial hold broke off next to the second bolt. Possibly 26 now. Set: Wesley Black, 2011 FA: Wesley Black, 2013 | 8 | |||
South Africa Northwest Province Bobbejaan Krans Left Side Lower Sector | |||||
26 | Natural
FA: Stephan Swanepoel | 6 | |||
26 | ★★★ Dasie Kak
Climb up the arête. FA: Stephan Swanepoel | 6 | |||
South Africa Northwest Province Bobbejaan Krans Space Cave | |||||
FB:6B | ★★ Olieboom
SD FA: JD Millar | ||||
South Africa Gauteng Johannesburg The Glade | |||||
{FB} 6B | Guy's warm up
FA: Guy Hubbard | ||||
{FB} 6B | Guardian of the pine
FA: Russell Hattingh | ||||
South Africa Gauteng Johannesburg Strubens 2 Boulder Area | |||||
{FB} 6B+ | Three more inches
FA: Guy Hubbard, 2004 | ||||
{FB} 6B | ★ Juicy Lucy
FA: Neil Margetts, 2004 | ||||
{FB} 6B+ | ★ Trailer Park Trash
FA: James Roberts, 2003 | ||||
South Africa Gauteng Johannesburg The Keg | |||||
V4 | SCRAPING THE BARREL
FA: James Roberts, 2002 | ||||
V4 | THE DREGS
FA: James Roberts, 2002 | ||||
V4 | DOWN IN THE DREGS
FA: James Roberts, 2002 | ||||
V4 | Sterling Light Lager It's All Beer
FA: James Roberts, 2002 | ||||
V4 | Beer Vision Goggles
FA: James Roberts, 2002 | ||||
South Africa Gauteng Johannesburg The Wilds Kiddies Slope | |||||
{FB} 6B+ | ★ Do it First
| ||||
South Africa Gauteng Johannesburg The Wilds The Cave | |||||
{FB} 6B+ | ★★ Pièce of cake
| ||||
{FB} 6B | ★★ The Hustler
| ||||
South Africa Gauteng Bronkhorstspruit Crag | |||||
26 | ★★★ After Burn
Hard start. Eases up after 2nd bolt. Set: Rory Lowther, 2004 FA: G. Lowther & C. Rudolph., 2005 | 12 | |||
26 | ★★★ Perch on this
FA: Andrew Pedley, 2016 | ||||
26 | Pew pew pew
FA: Wesley Black, 2016 | ||||
26 | Hoffman Half Beast
Powerful, big moves to big jugs, gate bending, dog bone munching line through a scoop/roof. Set: Matthew Hoffman, 2019 FA: Matthew Hoffman, 2019 | ||||
26 | ★ Devil's Advocate
Very powerfull and bouldery crux. FA: Ken Thrash, 2009 | 11 | |||
South Africa Gauteng King's Kloof North West Main Face | |||||
26 | The Disciple
project of Neil Margetts | ||||
South Africa Gauteng King's Kloof Farm Yard Boulder | |||||
FB:6B+ | A Gaggle of Geese
Sit start lower left side of the vertical face and traverse right, linking to Grounded Goose. Grade still open to consensus. FA: Wesley Black, 20 Aug 2022 | ||||
FB:6B+ | A Drift of Ducks
Sit start lower left side of the vertical face and traverse right, linking to Darkened Duck. Grade still open to consensus. FA: murphygt, 20 Aug 2022 | ||||
South Africa Gauteng King's Kloof Norther Boulders Glory Boulder | |||||
{FB} 6B | Jugs of Glory
Sit Start off lower jugs, top out by the dark streak. FA: Wesley Black, Oct 2022 | ||||
South Africa Gauteng Faerie Glen | |||||
FB:6B | ★ Sketchy
Climb the face 1m right of Eagle Owl without using the crack or the opposite wall.This face faces upstream of the river.Top Out. FA: Wesley Black | ||||
FB:6A - B | Owl's Knees Open Proj
This route climbs the second arete of the crag (Eagle Owl is the first). Stand start under it, with hands matched on the rock protruding at face height. Climb the arete but with your body always on it's left. T/O to the right of out of time. Set: Bruce McD | ||||
South Africa Mpumalanga Waterval Boven The Mayhem Crags Burning Man Walls | |||||
26 | ★★ Armageddon
Starts in a damp section between 'Deep Impact' & 'Pandora's Box' and leads onto marvelous meandering Mayhem magic. FA: Marc Efune, Oct 2016 | ||||
26 | ★ Sharpen Up Cupcake
From the gully, walk 15 m along the trail past the huge yellow-wood there is an ‘embankment’. The climb takes a discontinuous crack up a grey vertical face. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA. Set: Mountain Club of South Africa FA: Michelle van Aswegen, Nov 2015 | ||||
South Africa Mpumalanga Waterval Boven The Mayhem Crags Animal Farm Sector | |||||
26 | ★★★ Warm Geometrical Blanket
Boven's finest in a nutshell: crack, arete, roof and sexy face. Amazingly sustained and epic moves throughout. FA: J. Breytenbach & aymeric, 1 Apr | 11 | |||
South Africa Mpumalanga Waterval Boven The Mayhem Crags Corruption Crags | |||||
26 | Raucus Caucus
Starts directly right of 'Double Dealings'. Climbs inside the fin, out onto the face following a crazy fine line of crimps in the perfect sequence to keep you shuffling your feet. FA: Joshua McNally, 2018 Set: Ebert Nel, Apr 2018 | 9 | |||
South Africa Mpumalanga Waterval Boven The Mayhem Crags Mythology Sector | |||||
26 | ★★★ Welcome to Rartarus
[N, A] On the mini Godno wall. The direct start of 'Tartarus', starting on the ledge right of the tree in between the two open book cracks. Starts as for 'Elysium' and busts straight up instead of heading right into the 'Elysium' open book. Powerful move into an undercling crack, with powerful big moves in between big holds that follow. Amazing clean overhanging fun. FA: Ebert Nel, Oct 2016 | ||||
South Africa Mpumalanga Waterval Boven Tranquilitas Wildfire | |||||
26 | ★ BULGE PROJECT
On the left of a small cave 4m right of 'Chimney Stack' corner, move through the bulge on sharp holds past 3 closely spaced bolts. Then what?! Set: Clive Curson, 2017 | 6 | |||
South Africa Mpumalanga Waterval Boven Tranquilitas Malaria Area | |||||
26 | ★★ Atlantis
A greatline. Pull a small overlap then head into the corner and race for the chains up steeper ground. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2004 | 11 | |||
South Africa Mpumalanga Waterval Boven Tranquilitas Baboon Buttress | |||||
26 | ★ Goose on a Loose
Climb first 5 bolts with 'Pretenders', clip the next 2 bolts and then finish at higher anchors for (harder) direct finish. FA: Mark Seuring, 2006 | 9 | |||
26 | ★★ Heroes
Start in a short overhanging corner, climb up this (burly) and up the nice wall above to below the upper roof. Stays dry in heavy rain. FA: Michael Cartwright, 2006 | 9 | |||
26 | ★★★ The Butterfly P1
Great climb to chains below the massive roof. Stunning moves up the corner and through roof, easier than it looks! FA: Alard Hüfner | ||||
South Africa Mpumalanga Waterval Boven Tranquilitas The God No Wall | |||||
26 | ★★ Blood-Brain Barrier
Start in the middle of God-No, a few meters left of 'Freak Show'. Climb the steep arete to a technical crux and bust through to chains under the massive roof. FA: Tim Slab, Robin Clintworth & Aymeric Georget, 22 Jan 2023 | ||||
26 | ★★★ Dungeons and Dragons
25 if you can use your feet. This route starts in the corner just right of 'Chocolate Éclair'. Much better than it looks, a great climb. Start up the ramp and into the long overhanging corner behind the trees 20 metres right of 'Freak On'. Dry in all weather. FA: Michael Cartwright, 2007 | 13 | |||
26 | ★★ Purgatory Perhaps?
Between 'Rock-Chuka-Chick' and 'Big Bad Wolf'. NB: This route is 36m long. 70m+ The belayer needs to climb up onto the first ledge in order to lower the climber. MCSA bolts. FA: Marc Flex Efune, 2015 | 36m, 16 | |||
South Africa Mpumalanga Waterval Boven Wonderland Area Hallucinogenic Wall | |||||
26 | ★ The Flying Scotsman
The desperate looking blank face. FA: James Roberts, 2002 | 5 | |||
26 | ★★★ Wicked
Climbs a recessed face about 15m right of 'Dexter's Lab'. It is a powerful route and the crux is very hard if you have a small arm span. FA: Alard Hüfner, 1999 | 9 | |||
26 | ★★ Drop Kicked
2m right of 'Wicked'. Some of us were sandbagged when 24 was written at the base after the first ascent! FA: Alard Hüfner, 2000 | 9 | |||
26 | ★★ Dutch Popcorn
Starts behind a bush under an overhanging corner. A great line. Keep your thinking cap on for this route. FA: Alard Hüfner, 1999 | 12 | |||
South Africa Mpumalanga Waterval Boven Wonderland Area The Superbowl | |||||
26 | ★★★ Doug in the Yellow House
Starts on tree roots 20 m left of 'Snapdragon'. Tenuous lay-backs leads to great climbing through the roofs to the chains. Really good and not a giveaway! FA: Jens Richter & Bine Tittel, 2005 | 13 | |||
26 | ★★ Karfoefeling
Awesome. Starts on 'Rude Bushmen' or 'Welcome to Ovamboland', then go left and up to pass some overlaps, finishing ¾ height chains. A popular first 26. FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner, 2004 | 13 | |||
26 | ★★ Out of a Limb
Head up the left hand limb of the big white fig tree (below 'Soul Mandate'). Fight through the initial overhang and fire up the headwall above to the chains. There is potential to take the route through the massive roof above… FA: Mark Millar, 2006 | 10 | |||
26 | ★★ The Doomsday Device
Start up the first 5 bolts of 'Miss Mckinley' and then head right. FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune, 2012 | 13 | |||
South Africa Mpumalanga Waterval Boven Wonderland Area The Left Wings | |||||
26 | ★ Herman the German
Climb up the next route to the recess, rail 2m left and then up the headwall. FA: Adam, 1994 | 10 | |||
26 | ★★ Transmogrifier
Start on the block below the obvious V-groove. Name written at base of the climb FA: Mark Seuring, 2001 | 9 | |||
South Africa Mpumalanga Waterval Boven Wonderland Area The Theatre | |||||
26 | ★★★ Kindred Spirits
At the right end of the ledge, climb up a few moves, and right around the corner to under a roof (awkward 3rd clip out left). Opened at 25! FA: Grant Murray, 1992 Set: 2009 | 10 | |||
South Africa Mpumalanga Waterval Boven Triple Tier Crags The Foundry | |||||
26 | ★ The Surge
The line right of 'Mercury Rev'. FA: Gilles Benier, 1997 | 10 | |||
South Africa Mpumalanga Waterval Boven The Restaurant Crags The Restaurant Crag | |||||
26 | ★★ The Playpen
Just to the right of the chimney-with-teeth. Airy at the top. FA: Grant Murray, 1993 | 10 | |||
26 | ★★★ World's Apart
A classic finger crack, in the middle of the Restaurant crag. Retrobolted by Lobster himself. One of the first routes here. FA: Peter Lazarus, 1991 | 9 | |||
South Africa Mpumalanga Waterval Boven The Island Never Never Land | |||||
26 | Why Me?
The scoop just right of 'Slick and Shine'. Pre-clip the first draw. FA: Mark Seuring, 1996 | 4 | |||
South Africa Mpumalanga Waterval Boven Sport Valley The Coven | |||||
26 | ★★ Merci My Brother
A route with hangers just right of 'Lucifer Goes to the Gunks' and also sustained. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2000 | 9 | |||
South Africa Mpumalanga Waterval Boven The Waterfall Crags The A.C.R.A Wall | |||||
26 | ★★★ Screaming Blue Messiah
Trad line - no bolts. From the chains at the left edge of the ledge, head slightly right into the obvious break. Keep going. FA: Gary Lotter, 1991 | ||||
26 | ★★★ You Too Brutus
From the chains climb up and thinly right. Go through the overlaps to the chains. Re-bolted in 2008. FA: Grant Murray, 1992 | 12 | |||
South Africa Mpumalanga Waterval Boven The Waterfall Crags The Last Crag of the Century | |||||
26 | ★★★ As the World Disappears
Up the face then leftward through the overlap to a headwall crack that keeps on coming. 30m+ route, steep and sustained with great photo opportunities. FA: Volker Schweinbenz, 1999 | 13 | |||
South Africa Mpumalanga Waterval Boven The Waterfall Crags Toon Town | |||||
26 PROT:R | Poes in Boots
Climb the middle of the wall 2.5m right of the an open project. 30m right of 'African Odyssey'. The 3rd clip is tricky, a gripper, clipper, whipper - ground fall. Use the chains on the arête. FA: Brett Clarke, 1992 | 3 | |||
26 | ★★ Day of Decimation
in a crazy wild place. The arête right of the 3 cracks. Permission has been granted for retro-bolting! FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1992 | 3 | |||
South Africa Mpumalanga Sabie Gorge Bouldering | |||||
{FR} FB:6B+ | Rath-Of-God
Same line as Queen of the Golgari, Skip the Dyno and travers out left. FA: Johnny Steenkamp, 2003 | ||||
South Africa Mpumalanga Kaap se Hoop Ezekiel | |||||
FB:6B+ | Ezekiel
Start on some sharp fins and go directly up the boulder | ||||
South Africa Mpumalanga Kaap se Hoop Submarine | |||||
FB:5C - 6B+ | Traverses
multiple traverses possibilities |