Showing all 12 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1966 | |||||
7 R | The Shaker
An obscure choice for this era when almost all the other classics of 'Arapiles' were still unclimbed! For over thirty years guidebooks placed this climb in the wrong gully. The good news is that no-one has missed it. Some awful rock. Start a few metres right of A Sore Finger. There's a wonky letter S painted somewhere.
FA: Daryl Carr & Jerry Grandage, 1966 | 66m, 3 | Arapiles | ||
1975 | |||||
11 | Right Hand Variant
The corner on the R to ledge, then interesting curving corner. Start: Start as for LHV. FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch & Dave Simpson, 1975 | 40m | Arapiles | ||
1977 | |||||
12 | Left Hand Variant
Big L-facing corner with an attractive flake-crack in excellent orange rock. At a length of only 24m, the original probably finished at the ledge at the top of the left-facing corner/flake, and walked off left past the base of 'Bermuda Triangle'. However, it seems fairly obvious to do a second pitch up the short corner just left, then step right and up the orange crack above (this is shown in the topo). Start: Start ~50m R of BT. FA: Bill Andrews & Peter Watling, 1977 | 24m | Arapiles | ||
20 | ★ Bermuda Triangle
The corner, then R around the roof. Start: Start beneath the distinctive orange triangular roof towards the L end of the crag. FA: Roland Pauligk & Barry Edwards, 1977 | 12m | Arapiles | ||
1978 | |||||
21 | ★ Controlled Burn
Starts on left side of the wall immediately left of 'Bermuda Triangle'. Up to where a series of wedged blocks in a horizontal break leads right. Follow this rightwards until you are nearly at the BT roof then climb strenuously straight up to top using a series of pockets. - Fun! FA: Richard Curtis & Phil Armstrong, 1978 | 20m | Arapiles | ||
1981 | |||||
20 | Ddark Ddigit
Easy wall, orange rock, then L under overhangs to arete. Up it. Start: Start 30m L of 'Light Fingered' (which is described on a separate page). FA: Rod Young & Tim Chapman, 1981 | 40m | Arapiles | ||
1982 | |||||
19 | Bridge of Thighs
Very contrived as it's much easier to use jugs just L. Start: Start 5m R of T&Q. FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Peter Watson & Rob Thompson, 1982 | 20m | Arapiles | ||
1988 | |||||
20 | A Sore Thumb
Easily to pillar then flake up R. L below bulge and up seam. Start: Start at obvious slender buttress between DD and 'Light Fingered'. FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little & Maureen Gallagher, 1988 | 40m | Arapiles | ||
1989 | |||||
18 | Thighs and Quivers
The weakness up the thin face. Start: Start 6m R of BT. FA: Nick Neagle, Tony Barker & Paul Francis, 1989 | 20m | Arapiles | ||
2000 | |||||
14 | Dud Day Afternoon
The topo for this route and the next few is pretty much a guess. Left of the start of 'Ddark Ddigit' is a broken orange wall with an arete on the right hand side. Pitch one follows this arete.
FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard (alts) & James Falla., 2000 | 50m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
2006 | |||||
10 | Uncle Bob’s Folly
If you can find this you're doing better than us. May be a repeat of final crack of 'Right Hand Variant' Start: High on the broken cliffs right of Bermuda triangle is a curving offwidth crack which is almost impossible to see from anywhere. Find your way to the base of this. FA: Glenn Marsden & Greg Pritchard, 2006 | 10m | Arapiles | ||
2008 | |||||
14 | A Sore Finger
Steep direct line with some brittle rock. The vertical seam/crack on the right side of the pinnacle of A Sore Thumb, finishing up steep crack. FA: Keith Lockwood & Pete Canning, 2008 | 25m | Arapiles |
Showing all 12 routes.