Lois Lane Wall Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Lois Lane Wall 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

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A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.762589, 141.845775

description

The wall facing Pilot Error and Kryptonite Krack.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pilot Error Area

access issues

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

inherited from Arapiles

approach

Reaching the routes R of Debutantes requires a scramble along an exposed terrace. One life has been lost on this traverse.

descent notes

Rap anchors above Debutantes and Lex Luthor. The rap from Lex Luthor is 30 metres: the rope falls clear of snagging on the big chockstone so if you have at least 60m of rope there is no need to do a 2 pitch abseil via the Debutantes anchor.

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

• Stick to the paths.

• Don't disturb the wildlife.

• Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

• Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Lex Luthor Start at the base of the slim pillar at the back of the gully between Pilot Error Ledge and Lois Lane Wall. 12m (19) Boulder up into the thin crack on the front face of the pillar. 18m (19) Climb the fingery face on the R wall of the gully above the ledge, beware slightly fragile rock. Stay L of the arete up higher on glorious jugs, to chains (30m to ground). FA: Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd, 1991	20	Trad 40m, 2
2		Across the Andes by Frog The small arete with a bolt. Start R of LL. FA: Simon Mentz & Nick White, 1992	21	Mixed trad 20m, 1
3		★ Eurylochus Start at the righthand chimney in the back of the gully. 15m (12) Up the chimney and under the chockstone. 15m (15) Take the left-facing curving flake on the right wall, then traverse right and up to rap anchor for Lex Luthor. FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1977	14	Trad 33m, 2
4		★★ Excuse me Lex Link up of Excuse me While I Belch into 2nd pitch of Lex Luthor. No stepping onto the massive chockstone. Do as one big pitch to get grade 20. Can lower off with 60m rope.	20	Trad 32m
5		★ Excuse Me While I Belch Start as for E. Bridge chimney for 8m then tricky face moves to join a wide L-facing flake/crack. FA: Louise Shepherd & Nicky Sunderland, 1991	19	Trad 17m
6		★ Magenweh As for Heimweh, then veer L where Heimweh goes R into DaC. up past a few intermittent seams, then R into DaC up high. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 30 Jan 2022	26 R	Mixed trad 15m, 2
7		★ Heimweh Start as for Debutantes. Runout up L and traverse back R on layaways in horizontal weakness to join DaC. Finish up this. FA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1985	26 R	Mixed trad 15m, 2
8		★★★ Debutantes and Centipedes Start L of the blunt arete. Trend R to arete past 3 RBs. Crux to break then tend leftwards past good trad to loweroff. FA: Mike Law & Mike Law-Smith, 1981	25	Mixed trad 15m, 3
9		★ Cambodia The face with 2 bolts, involving two distinct boulder problems. Reachy start off two sidepulls then into slopers to a brief respite, then a cute micro crimp problem to the ledge. Easily up from there. Harder than some 26s. Start R of D&C. FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1982	25	Mixed trad 20m, 2
10		★ Lois Lane Amazing how many people commandeer the blunt end on a bold route! Start R of C roughly in the middle of the wall. FA: Kevin Lindorff, Tony Dignan, Matt Dunstan & Peter Lindorff, 1979	24 X	Trad 20m
11		Extension The reachy face with a bolt. Start just R of Lois Lane. FA: Mike Law & Mike Law-Smith, 1981	25	Mixed trad 25m, 1
12		★ Reunion From such beginnings at age 18, 10 years later he was in on Australia's first ascent of Everest. Quite nice anyway. Start a few m R of Lois Lane beneath the only significant crackline. FA: Lincoln Hall & Norm Booth, 1974	17	Trad 25m
13		Calypso Worth roping up for the traverse to the base, and for the traverse off L at the top to the rap anchor. Start 6m R of Reunion, R of orange cave. FA: Rod Young & Simon Kenny, 1977	15	Trad 20m
14		Contraction Start up the ramp of BS, then the flake. Tricky up small corner on the L. Start as for B. FA: Kim Carrigan & Robin Miller, 1982	22	Trad 20m
15		Beasley St / Beasley Street Start just R of C. Boldly up face to bolt. FA: Guy Cotter & Steve Howden, 1981	23 R	Mixed trad 20m, 1
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2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style	Pop
14		★	Eurylochus	Trad 33m, 2
15			Calypso	Trad 20m
17		★	Reunion	Trad 25m
19		★	Excuse Me While I Belch	Trad 17m
20		★★	Excuse me Lex	Trad 32m
		★★	Lex Luthor	Trad 40m, 2
21			Across the Andes by Frog	Mixed trad 20m, 1
22			Contraction	Trad 20m
23 R			Beasley St	Mixed trad 20m, 1
24 X		★	Lois Lane	Trad 20m
25		★	Cambodia	Mixed trad 20m, 2
		★★★	Debutantes and Centipedes	Mixed trad 15m, 3
			Extension	Mixed trad 25m, 1
26 R		★	Heimweh	Mixed trad 15m, 2
		★	Magenweh	Mixed trad 15m, 2