description
Start: Start under the big chasm which separates 'Bard Buttress' and 'Tiger Wall'.
30m (2) Easy slab to the start of the chimney.
30m (11) The slippery chimney then head a bit left to belay (old pitons).
30m (10) Exciting. Head up the steep groove on the L wall, move right (though not quite into the chimney) and continue up the L wall. Exciting moves lead around the L side of the giant chockstone. Belay above. (An inferior alternative is to return to the chimney from the belay).
28m (10) Up the L wall, heading slightly left and finishing up the final moves of 'Bard'. (Again, sticking to the chimney is inferior, and involves plenty of loose rock and vegetation.)
Monster chasm
Route history
| 14 Nov 1964 | First ascent: Mike Stone & Ian Speedie |
|---|
Warnings
| 30 Apr 2021 | Warning Access: Climbing not advised. SPA Area |
|---|
Location
- Lat/Lon: -36.75649, 141.84424
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Grade citation
| 2,11,10,10 | Assigned grade |
| ★Cameron Roy | |
| 10 | Phil Laukens |
| 10 | A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite |
| 11 | ★ Arapiles, Selected Climbs |
ethic
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Seasonality
Quality
Overall quality 57 from 87 ratings.
Tick Types
Comment keywords
Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest
Date: 2016
ISBN: 9780987526427
This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.
Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter
Date: 2013
ISBN: 9780987087461
444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!
Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson
Date: 2011
ISBN: 9780646529387
Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.
Accommodations nearby more Hide
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