Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 21st Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag The Pagoda Environs | ||||||
14 | ★ You Call This an Arete | 13m, 6 | ||||
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18 ~17 | ★ Emergency bacon | 12m, 5 | ||||
Nice spot. Rock is a bit dirty but good features.
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Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Trenches AWOL | ||||||
V2 R | ★★ AWOL | 4m | ★★★ Classic | |||
It's a really fun problem. Not R rated, good flat sandy landing, though the topout has a bit of spice.
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Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Trenches In The Trenches | ||||||
V1 | ★★ The Nude Bomb | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Tue 23rd Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Jimmy Cliff | ||||||
19 | ★ Anal Leakage | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★ Mr Scumbag | 20m | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★★ Johnny's Jalopies | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 21st Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Self Portrait Wall | ||||||
23 | ★ Chook Lotto — 3 attempts | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 20th Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Atomic Punk Area | ||||||
14 | ★ Refusal | 25m | ★ Good | |||
The first half is a great splitter. The second half is choss but actually quite fun.
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20 | ★★ Atomic Punk | 25m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Spoogey and strenuous. Went the wrong way,pumped out and backed off above the cam break.
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Sat 20th Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Noodle Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Noodle | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hidden gem!
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Sat 20th Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Mezzaluna Area | ||||||
15 | ★ Community Service | 20m, 6 | Average | |||
19 | ★★ Tin Man | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Deep Freeze Area | ||||||
18 | ★★ Uncle Amy | 16m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★★ Last Call for Fame and Glory | 16m, 6 | ||||
Haha this was a blast. I really recommend bringing the cam. It is 100% broken legs if you do this as a "sport" route and blow the clip.
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19 | ★★ Damn These Electric Sex Pants | 16m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Alzheimers onsight. Definitely done this before but didn't log it? It's pretty good.
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Sat 6th Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Mezzaluna Area | ||||||
15 | ★ Shabby Doll | 16m, 4 | Average | |||
It's fine. Still a bit trad, take care if you're leading at the grade.
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16 | ★★ Mezzaluna | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 6th Jan 2024 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Trenches The Caves | ||||||
V4 | King of Quality | Average | ||||
Top 100 superclassic in the new guide? We'll see. I did my bit cleaning it up. Perch start facing outwards is very modern.
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Sun 26th Nov 2023 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Trenches Bunker Wall | ||||||
V6 R | Hamburger Hill — 2 attempts | 4m | ||||
I put a bit of work into brushing the topout. The last move to the top is a big blind reach, just as hard as the first big move for me.
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Sat 18th Nov 2023 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Trenches Bunker Wall | ||||||
V3 | ★★ Legacy — 3 attempts | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hardest thing we tried today it felt like! I think Luke is right though, it's probably easier to cheese it and skip the chicken heads and deadpoint straight up to the pocket.
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V6 R | Hamburger Hill — 2 attempts | 4m | ||||
Trying the "Stormburger" variant. Got the big move quickly but it's hard to work the top half, I reckon I'll bring a rope next time to clean and check the mantle.
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Sat 18th Nov 2023 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Trenches The Caves | ||||||
V6 | ★★★ Bring It On | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
That is a whole lotta roof climbing. Pretty special feature.
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V5 | ★★★ Y2K — 2 attempts | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent but the top out is impossibly slippery when it's in the sun!
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Sat 18th Nov 2023 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Trenches In The Trenches | ||||||
V2 | ★★ The Rude Bomb | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Cool line of pockets with poor feet, and the obvious line here to my eye.
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V2 R | ★★ Napalm Death | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bit dirty but there is a great climb there if you brush a bit. 'R' rating is too much, it's fine.
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Sat 18th Nov 2023 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Trenches Bunker Wall | ||||||
V1 | ★ Thrice-A-Day — 2 attempts | 3m | Average | |||
I think we made this hard for ourselves by hugging the prow the whole way. Not the best warmup.
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V3 | ★★ Friendly Fire — 3 attempts | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hilarious trying to get off the ground. Great true friction slabbing.
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Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Amen Corner | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I saved this one for too long. I found the infamous runout not too bad, you can rest for as long as you want beforehand, and then it's over in a couple of layback moves. The top half though, that took a bit more out of me!
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Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Tombstone Wall | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
15 | ★★ The Pharaoh | 33m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Bonnet Bay | ||||||
18 Hard | ★ Mowgli - with Luke | 10m, 3 | ||||
Pretty stiff problem, almost harder than "Kim" for me!
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21 Easy | ★★ Kim - with Luke | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Good balancy blunt arete, just too short.
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24 | ★★★ Lean Beef — 3 attempts - with Luke | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
First grade 24 redpoint in almost ten years, I think
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Powerbra Rangers | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Sail Away Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Black Heathen | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Brilliant and atmospheric. Some wet holds under the first rooflet. I found the top crux hardest.
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Krell Area | ||||||
17 | ★★ Here and Now | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Kind of cool. Good looking red wall, but it's a bit sandy.
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | ||||||
23 Easy | ★★ Mal's Mega Route — 2 attempts | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Really nice. Softy, but the grade might hold for the onsight, the crux is pretty blind and there's zero chalk on it.
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18 ~19 | ★ Ooops | 15m | Average | |||
Desperate.
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Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Chasing Amy Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ 1800Traverse | 20m | Average | |||
Haha I have done this, alzheimers un-send. Hampered myself with rope drag and got spooked climbing off the ledge into ankle breaking territory. It would be good if it was straight up.
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Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Junket Pumper Area | ||||||
24 | ★★ Junket Pumper — 2 attempts | 15m | ★ Good | |||
One hang.
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Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ These Apples Must Be Jen's — 2 attempts | 20m, 7 | Average | |||
The top is good. Bottom crux took me a while and felt a bit janky, not my favourite move.
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Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall | ||||||
16 | ★★ Gold Star Pitch 1 | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
It's tricky! Chimney to reachy thin hands, good crack climbing.
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21 | ★★★ Vincent HRD | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I was assured this was soft but I thought it was pretty full on. Needs a bit more cleaning before I'd call it classic (also the start is a bit crappy). Excellent though.
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Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Walk-Down Gully | ||||||
16 | ★★★ The Gates of Janus — 2 attempts | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Beautiful route. Got to the roof with no gear left that would fit - had to downclimb and lower off. Second try, backcleaned a red & green totem for the top and cruised it.
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Fri 21st Jul 2023 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point Sloth Area | ||||||
16 | ★★ Sloth | 23m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Geez, this route has a sting. The cobble is classic. Pretty hard I thought.
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Fri 21st Jul 2023 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point The Very Nice Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Pale Yellow Underwear | 10m, 5 | ||||
Dogged to hang draws, then 3 redpoint attempts. Next time, pre-tape middle 2 on the right hand.
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Wed 19th Jul 2023 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point The Very Nice Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Pale Yellow Underwear | 10m, 5 | ||||
Freed all moves, but trouble linking the crux. Redpoint attempt fell apart in the first half
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Tue 18th Jul 2023 - New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ||||||
Tianjara Falls Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods gully | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Dodecahedron | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I heard it was all choss up here, but this is great quality. If this counts as choss, the entire Blue Mountains is unclimbable sand.
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13 | ★★ Strike Path | 19m | ||||
A great mini adventure!
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16 | ★ Roger Bourne Identity | 16m, 6 | ||||
Good! Conglomerate texture adds a bit of interest to the footwork.
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Mon 17th Jul 2023 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point Descent Gully Walls | ||||||
16 | ★★ Barbie Twins | 17m, 7 | ||||
Very trad, for TP
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17 | ★★ Butt Head | 15m, 7 | ||||
15 | ★★ Santa's Little Helper | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Jugs mantles slab, it's got it all. Testpiece at the grade!
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11 | ★ Lucifer | 15m | ||||
24 | ★ Sonic Hedgehog | 14m | Average | |||
Old school and stretchy. Freed the crux and climbed to the top but didn't try to redpoint.
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14 | Tony | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
I liked it, but it's probably just Barrenjoey nostalgia. Don't overlook it if you're looking for easier climbs here.
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Sun 9th Jul 2023 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Frontline Front and Centre | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ Sloper-Dan Milosevic | 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Stand start, multiple links, but not yet complete. Bit frustrating and the audience doesn't help
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Sun 9th Jul 2023 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Frontline The Corridor Boulders | ||||||
V5 | ★★ Full Metal Jacket | 4m | ||||
Exceptionally powerful, bit sceptical that it goes at that grade, though I haven't put in a proper session to be fair
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Sun 9th Jul 2023 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Frontline The Far Side | ||||||
V1 | Lima | 3m | ||||
V2 | ★ Kilo | 3m | ||||
Great mantle!
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V3 | ★ Juliet | 3m | ||||
V2 | ★ India | 3m | ||||
Still a bit crumbly
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V3 | ★ Hotel | 3m | ||||
This whole sector is pretty nice, and a good escape from the rest of the Frontlines circus
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V0 | ★ Foxtrot | 3m | Average | |||
V0 | ★ Sighed | 5m | Average | |||
Alzheimers flash
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V0 R | ★★ The DownSide | 5m | Average | |||
Alzheimers flash
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V1 | ★ The Upside | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Attractive feature, would be alright with more brushing and traffic.
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V5 | ★★ The Bright Side | 2m | ||||
V5 | ★ The Low Side | 2m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Blackboard Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Yesterday's Heroes | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Ladder of Gloom Area | ||||||
11 | ★★ Who needs new boots | 14m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Not bad, for an easy route.
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15 | ★ Avoidance Arete | 8m, 4 | Average | |||
Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Blackboard Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Palm Sunday | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Lindfield Rocks | ||||||
Isolated Rock/Overhang | ||||||
V2 | ★★★ The Overhang | 6m | ||||
Alzheimer's flash, one pad, yeeeehaww
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Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Lindfield Rocks | ||||||
Bum Crack/Pocketed Face | ||||||
V4 | ★★ Kim's Arete — 3 attempts | 3m | ||||
Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Lindfield Rocks | ||||||
Black Wall/Wide Crack Area | ||||||
V4 | ★★ 8 | 5m | ★ Good | |||
Alzheimer's flash
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Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Lindfield Rocks | ||||||
Abseil Wall | ||||||
V4 | ★★★ The Arete | 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Alzheimer's flash, I remember it being quite straighforward, but jeez I must have been climbing well, bloody desperate and scary today. One pad
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Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Lindfield Rocks | ||||||
Four Cracks Wall | ||||||
V2 | ★ 13 | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V0 | ★ 11 - The Juggy Face | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V0 | ★ 8 - Twin Cracks | 4m | ||||
V1 | ★ 5 | 4m | ||||
Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Lindfield Rocks | ||||||
Kenny Boulder | ||||||
V1 | ★★ 5 | 3m | ||||
I always find the Kenny Boulder diabolical.
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Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Lindfield Rocks | ||||||
Walkdown Wall | ||||||
V1 | ★ 10 | 5m | ||||
V3 | ★ 7 - Discontinuous Crack | 4m | ||||
Sat 3rd Jun 2023 - Bluebell | ||||||
25 | ★★ Darling Buds of Mayhem — 2 attempts | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Stuck the move once but had trouble repeating it. Don't have the right feet yet I think.
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21 | ★★ Welcome to the Body Shop — 2 attempts | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
16 | ★ Sparky | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Maybe needs some traffic and a good brushing after La Nina?
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Sat 20th May 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Bullet Hole Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Looks Poxable | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Excellent, euro style! If only it was a bit longer...
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18 | ★ Fox Sox Pox | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
This is a weird climb and hard to read. Rebar "bolts" are hilarious.
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22 | ★★ Scott's Edge — 2 attempts | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Hard move at the crux for the grade I thought. Also one of the headwall jugs is huge and was not only filled with water, it had its own ecosystem of plants going on.
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Sat 20th May 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Glamorpus Area | ||||||
23 | ★★ Scones of Doom | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Cool cave climb. I made it to the sit-down rest, and rested for ages thinking I had a headwall still to climb, then realised I basically had to stand up to get to the anchor.
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Sat 20th May 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Ladder of Gloom Area | ||||||
19 | ★★ Ladder of Gloom | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Ah, if only it was longer. Awesome feature!
What's with the bizarre anchor placement? I guess the intention was to force people to climb to the lip? |
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4 | Cenotaph Corner | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Actually kind of good, for a 4? Fairly clean. Soloed to exit the crag.
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Sat 20th May 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Blackboard Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Eccles | 12m, 2 | Average | |||
So many different styles at Berowra - and if you like brutal crimps this is the sector.
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17 | ★★ Yesterday's Heroes | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 14th May 2023 - Forestville | ||||||
Sissy Crag | ||||||
V4 | ★★ Dentalectomy | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Almost everything else was wet so got on this for old time sake. 3 (alzheimers) shots.
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V4 | ★ Rigid Fist Up Bum | 2m | Average | |||
Kneebar above your head is a cool move, but it's a pretty scungy corner of the crag.
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Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Iron Cove | ||||||
Rodd Park Super 8 | ||||||
V3 | ★★ Smooth Water | 3m | Don't Bother | |||
The photos make this place look small, but don't be fooled, in real life it's even smaller. This place makes Queens Park look like a supercrag.
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V2 | ★ Buff Chicks in Spandex | 3m | Don't Bother |
Sport bushwalking is fun though and it's way better than the Soft Parade.