Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 29th Mar 2014 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
5 | Exit Tortons | 13m | ||||
"Scrambling" up this exposed descent route is an easy way to add excitement to an afternoon of top roping.
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Sun 23rd Mar 2014 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Mossy Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Death of the Moss Monster | 15m, 5 | ||||
Barefoot lap. Cleaning at the end of the day.
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Sun 23rd Mar 2014 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Wet Feet Area | ||||||
17 | ★ Unknown | 10m | ★ Good | |||
A worthwhile variant start to Wet Feet. Though Jess managed to stay out of the water seconding, well done.
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Sun 23rd Mar 2014 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Steep Wall | ||||||
22 | ★ Lay la Kay | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
Snuck away from supervising the beginner topropes for a shot. Luckily it was a good one.
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Mon 17th Mar 2014 - Queens Park | ||||||
Left Hand Side | ||||||
V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse (The Waverly Traverse) | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Produces more pump and heartbreak than many sport routes!
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Sun 16th Mar 2014 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Hot Flyer Wall | ||||||
20 19 | ★★ Lardy Lady's Lats pitch 1 (Lady Lardy's Lats pitch 1) | 18m | ★ Good | |||
23 | ★★★ Hot Flyer | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
"Too tired after Trackcare" is a great excuse.
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Sun 16th Mar 2014 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
24 | ★ Survival Day | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
2nd session, no tick, it really doesn't seem like it should be this hard to get up! It might avoid a downgrade at this rate.
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12 | ★ Constipation Chimney Variant Start | 19m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 16th Mar 2014 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Theory of Negativity Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Theory of Negativity | 22m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really good! Why did I keep walking past it all these visits! Sustained long and pumpy for the grade.
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Sat 8th Mar 2014 - Bangor West | ||||||
17 | ★ Python | 8m, 2 | Average | |||
21 20 | ★ Sports Injury Clinic | 10m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Bolting is silly, first bolt is above the crux so may as well boulder or TR.
Good scoopy climbing though. |
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23 | ★ My Girl | 10m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Bah high gravity day, was expecting to redpoint first or second shot but couldn't even do the moves.
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20 | ★ A Loving Hole | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Also felt weird and hard? Not an inspiring climb.
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Sun 23rd Feb 2014 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Wave Wall | ||||||
23 | ★ Off the Lip | 15m, 7 | ||||
Slid off about a meter from the chains on the flash attempt. Should have held on...
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23 | ★★ Split Wave | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great classic line of steep jugs. First 23 flash, although I've had much bigger battles on lower graded climbs recently.
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Sun 23rd Feb 2014 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Deceptor Buttress | ||||||
14 | ★ Denali Blaster | 35m, 5 | Average | |||
Bigger and steeper than it looks, a good beginner's route (to top rope or second).
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Sun 23rd Feb 2014 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Black Bart's Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Stuffed | 66m | ★ Good | |||
13 | ★★★ Honey Dip | 28m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Best 13 in the mountains?
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Sun 9th Feb 2014 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Centurion Area | ||||||
15 | ★★ Impact Zone | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 9th Feb 2014 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Red Riding Hood Area | ||||||
19 | ★★ When the Levee Breaks | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Flash with inspection and a couple of pre-placed cams on abseil. Really good climbing.
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Sun 9th Feb 2014 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Rex Hunt's Area | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Rex Hunt's Love Child | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
One nut was jammed in pretty hard, after trying for while I yelled "Take!", "TAAAKE!" and finally "F%$@G TAAAAAKE YOU F*#$G MORON TAKE" at the top of my lungs, only to be met with a faint "what?" barely audible over the waves, so I just had to keep hanging on while I cleaned it.
Still fell off the top though! A truly mega route! |
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Sun 9th Feb 2014 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Centurion Area | ||||||
16 | ★★ Centurian | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 9th Feb 2014 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Mild West Bob's Cliff | ||||||
12 | ★★ Room with a View | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Location location location...stunning spot. Very short climb though. Supervising a good lead by Louis.
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Sun 9th Feb 2014 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Mild West Slash Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ Burn | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Pleasant little spot all the way down the end here. Limited though.
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Wed 29th Jan 2014 - Vaucluse | ||||||
Diamond Bay Diamond Bay Southside | ||||||
20 | ★★ Gloucester Buckets | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Aaah blew the onsight on this as well, slipped out of a sandy chip.
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Wed 29th Jan 2014 - Vaucluse | ||||||
Rosa Gully Rosa Gully south side | ||||||
22 | ★★ Pocks | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is a good route. Turns out I need to climb more than once a fortnight to maintain my 21 onsight grade.
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18 | ★★ Pox | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat with Em. An exiting belay with incoming tide and rising swell.
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Sun 19th Jan 2014 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall | ||||||
16 | ★★ Gold Star Pitch 1 | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Where did my lead head go - biggest "can I just close my eyes and go home now" moment in a while.
GEAR BETA Take more small cams and big hexes. Watch that terrifying loose block at the start, there's a great thread on the right take a double length sling. |
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Mon 6th Jan 2014 - Vaucluse | ||||||
Rosa Gully Rosa Gully south side | ||||||
18 | ★★ Pox - with James Bultitude | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
As fun and safe as the sea cliffs are going to get! So pick a hot afternoon, put on your boardshorts, and get on it.
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Fri 3rd Jan 2014 - Vaucluse | ||||||
Rosa Gully Rosa Gully North Side | ||||||
20 | ★★ The Last Wave - with Brendan | 50m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Friday arvo adventures. All the sand and surf you could want!
Brendan took a couple of jugs home as souvenirs and had some airtime…so the bolts are good! Give the second pitch to someone who's solid at the grade. Take a brush or three. |
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Sun 29th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Lunch Ledge | ||||||
19 | ★★ The West Face of the Mirrorball - with James Bultitude | 120m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good climb but I was in the wrong mood to enjoy it. Had to haul down on a badly tangled pull cord with the microtraxion, while abseiling in behind a large Bunny Bucket Buttress conga line.
Took 7 bolt plates, some wires, and 3 cams #0.75 to #2 (which we did place one or two times) |
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Sat 28th Dec 2013 - Bonnet Bay | ||||||
17 | ★ Lumberjack | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
Barefoot for a warmdown.
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24 | ★★★ Lean Beef | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Dyno to glory! So much fun.
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18 19 | ★ Glorious Manglervision | 13m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A bit of a shock after three weeks of Blueys vertical hauling. Funky, technical, awesome.
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17 20 | ★★ Bruised and Scratched | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 21st Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Heathcliff | ||||||
18 | ★★ Fake Blood | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Even with half the holds broken off it's still a contender for juggiest route in the mountains.
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19 | ★★ The Rift | 55m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great stuff all round, position, line and climbing. Surprisingly exposed. If you're going to do it in pitches I recommend taking the bolt plates and topping out.
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22 23 | ★★ Leighsageezer (Leighsageezer Pitch 1) | 63m | ★ Good | |||
Shoulda been onsight...peeled off the crux then immediately lowered off and got it 2nd shot.
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Sun 15th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ So, Said The King | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 14th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Jimmy Cliff | ||||||
18 | ★★ Johnny's Jalopies | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 14th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Rhum Dhu | ||||||
19 | ★★ Dirty Rotten Pig | 130m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A bit of a mini-epic taking out three beginners. One person overcome by the call of nature just after being put on belay to follow the first pitch (no tp of course). A dropped belay device. A stupidly tight pair of shoes that took 10 min to put on at every belay. Rain on the last pitch, then full-blown storm on the access pitch, a waterfall spraying in my face as the belayer was assulted by hail.
More dogging than a poodle show and my shoes still haven't fully dried. |
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Sun 8th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Big Top | ||||||
19 | ★★ JinX | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great, would have two stars at Thompsons Point.
This crag isn't bad, afternoon shade, bush character, Wolgan style walk in to keep away the masses, I'll be back. |
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22 | ★★ Llewd Dude | 25m | ★ Good | |||
I also quite liked this. Big moves and slopin sleazin on the same route, lots of climbing.
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18 | ★ YonX | 15m | ★ Good | |||
I liked this, lots of character for a short 18 sport route. Sandbag start, spicy bolting ("It would be safer on trad!") and good climbing.
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Sun 8th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath Reservoir Dogs | ||||||
15 | ★ I Don't Tip | 36m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
First multipitch for Dave and Lilian. Beginners accidentally unclipping themselves on the halfway ledge on this climb is becoming a tradition...
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Sun 8th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Sunbath | ||||||
18 | ★★ Old Salt | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Haha still not ticked! Not a good warmup, got pumped silly.
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Sat 7th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Logan Brae Main Cliff | ||||||
22 | ★★ Room With a View | 15m | Average | |||
Sat 7th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Bunny Bucket Buttress and Hotel California Area | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Bunny Bucket Buttress - with Brendan | 270m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Three years ago I would have been raving, but now it's just a good morning out.
Linked pitches 1 & 2, simulclimbed the halfway ledge, off by 1pm for lunch and latte in Blackheath, before going cragging in the afternoon. (Unfortunately our style looks less impressive next to the 3 Queenslanders in front of us, who simulclimbed BBB and HC in a day, to train for speed climbing in Yosemite!) |
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Sat 30th Nov 2013 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Hump Area The Hump | ||||||
18 | ★★★ The Initiation | 90m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This time I managed to clean all of Ro's nuts without weighting the rope or crying. Was a close-run thing though, with a little deja vu!
Led the slab traverse. |
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19 | ★★ Chickens in Choppers | 30m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
SLAB. GASM.
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Fri 29th Nov 2013 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
Lake Catani Campsite Area | ||||||
16 | ★ The Sickle Crack | 6m | ★ Good | |||
Surely this has been done before? It was about 30m from our tents...but we did break off the obvious footer, and scrape and brush away a lot of moss that would be hard to avoid.
Great little offwidth problem, and will now be mandatory for every stay at Catani. |
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Fri 29th Nov 2013 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Cathedral | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Maharajah | 42m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Brilliant, varied and exposed all the way to the hard-won summit. In three pitches, one lead each.
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17 | ★★★ Maharajah Flake Start | 10m | ★★★ Classic | |||
We were making fun of a shaking James, until we tried to to second it! Tricky and hard to protect! And excellent!
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Fri 29th Nov 2013 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Peroxide Blonde | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
At sunset. Aw man it was great.
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Wed 27th Nov 2013 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
Lake Catani Chalwell Galleries | ||||||
21 | ★★ Shady Tactics | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rest day slabbin'. Crux is not falling into a hole in the jumbled boulders at the "base".
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16 | ★ Son of Epic | 25m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rest day antics. I thought we were top-roping!?
Put a good #3 and/or #4 camalot in the ramp at the start. |
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Mon 25th Nov 2013 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Gorge - North Side North Wall | ||||||
★★★ Defender Of The Faith | 190m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Aided over two days. First grade V. An adventure!
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Sun 24th Nov 2013 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
Reservoir Environs Devil's Couch | ||||||
M3 | ★ Faust and Elizabeth | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Buffalo aid weekend 2013. Only one flared manky cam placement above a bomber #1 camalot in the pocket at the top of the initial crack. All smiles after that, even placed a hook for fun.
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Sat 23rd Nov 2013 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Gorge - South Side Disabled Lookout Area | ||||||
M3 | ★ Thanksgiving Crack | 15m, 1 | ||||
Buffalo aid weekend 2013. Seconding Ben on jugs for aid practice.
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21 | ★ Cacophonic Crack | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Buffalo aid weekend 2013, Macca belaying. "Crack jugging on cams to practice your aid sequence" suuuure, excellent sandbag guys!
After falling onto a tipped-out #5 camalot I returned with a #6 and big bro, still about three meters of thrutching out of the aiders to finish the job. |
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Sun 3rd Nov 2013 - Queens Park | ||||||
The Middle | ||||||
V2 | ★ Werner Heisenburg | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 2nd Nov 2013 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
10 | Cythaul Haul | 12m | Average | |||
Ok climbing but short and dirty. Good enough lead at the grade I suppose.
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12 | Sacrilege | 4m | Don't Bother | |||
Sun 27th Oct 2013 - Stanwell Tops | ||||||
Hargraves Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ The Dance Goes On | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★ After the Storm | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 27th Oct 2013 - Scarface Buttress | ||||||
25 | ★★ Gravity | 15m, 3 | ||||
I thought this was "Bolts Are Back", and was kind of concerned for a while there.
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20 | ★★ Cuckoo Dove Crack | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great pitch! Shame it's hidden away by itself down there.
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22 | ★★★ Stop the Bolts! | 88m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pitches 2, 3 & 4 with Neil and Bulti. 2nd pitch is awesome! 3rd is awful access rubbish. 4th is a great weird finale and harder than it looks.
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Sat 19th Oct 2013 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
9 | ★ Hang Over | 12m | Average | |||
7 | Been There, Done That | 10m | Don't Bother | |||
Soloed up to take photos, but it tragically narrows too much for secure back-n-footing at the top! Downclimbed. Not good for top access.
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14 | ★★ Pledge a Legend | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another lap with Richard Croker. Really excellent climbing, rock, and protection. A must for the beginning Sydney trad leader, along with Crack Of Dawn and Cosmic Ecology
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16 | ★ Abseil Wall | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
So glad I saved this for the onsight! Great line and climbing. Intimidating reputation, but the protection is good, really.
(GEAR BETA) First half has nuts and a cam or two, then red and purple totem cams are sinker at the crux, and a #4 Friend for the topout. |
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13 | Krill | 6m | ★ Good | |||
Armbar practice.
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14 | ★ Domino | 20m | Average | |||
Old school flaring chimney. Take big gear. I think I've now done every grade 14/15 crackline at here.
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16 | ★ Wild Ride | 18m | Average | |||
9 | Feetus Position | 4m | ||||
Horrible squeeze but the most obvious and secure access to the top of the cliff down the right hand end.
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5 | Exit Tortons | 13m | ||||
Finally found the "descent route" after many visits. The guide is hard to follow down this end. Chipped jugs all over it but scary exposed.
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17 | Frog's Fling | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Been looking at this for years and finally had a crack! A gnarly little bit of climbing.
Even with gear preplaced on rap by Bulti the crux was unprotected. Would be very serious to onsight, respect to all those who have done it! |
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15 | ★★ Crack of Dawn | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 13th Oct 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area The Soft Parade The Middle | ||||||
16 | ★ A Touch of Frost | 10m | Average | |||
Hard for the grade.
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14 | ★ Dirty Nuns with Chewing Gum | 10m | Average | |||
19 16 | ★ Hysterical Porcupine | 12m | ★ Good | |||
If this is the route I did (start up the block and then three bolts traversing left out over the cave), it took me two shots actually, and I would say a huge sandbag at 16. There's two or three steep moves with no jugs in sight. Best line here though!
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10 | ★ Lazy Lizards | 8m | ★ Good | |||
I honestly have no idea if this is 10 or not, some beginners trouble, but it's in a good position.
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8 | ★ Who's Bob | 8m, 5 | Average | |||
Still dirty. Maybe ok for kids, but even the first-timers with us looked bored.
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Sun 13th Oct 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Steep Wall | ||||||
22 | ★ Lay la Kay | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
Sun 13th Oct 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Gulf War Wall | ||||||
12 | ★ Suicidal Tendencies | 18m, 4 | Average | |||
Mediocre addition to the Dam Cliffs beginner rambles.
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24 | ★★ Voice of America | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Good and steep, but although the shoulder's mostly better I have no fitness! Backjumping was fun though.
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Mon 7th Oct 2013 - Wolgan Valley | ||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | ||||||
15 | ★★ Zarathustra | 70m | ★ Good | |||
Welcome to the Wolgan. Sandy, funky, splitter and FULL value for the grade. P1 only seconding Bulti.
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17 | ★★ Aquiline | 63m | ★ Good | |||
Could baaarely reach the horizontal on tippy toes...up and down to get gear and dithering a lot before committing. Add several grades if you're short.
Good climb though, striking line. Rapped off after P1. |
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Sun 22nd Sep 2013 - Lindfield Rocks | ||||||
She-Oak Wall | ||||||
V0 | ★ She-Oak Crack | 5m | ||||
Solo aid practice - micro traxion for top rope self belay, plus backup knots on other side of the rope. A couple laps with passive pro only, some top stepping, and also a bit of cam hooking and bat hooking.
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V0 V0 to V0+ | ★ 7 - Diagonal Cracks | 6m | ||||
V3 | ★★ 8 | 6m | ||||
V4 V4 R | ★ 5 | 5m | ||||
Sun 8th Sep 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Walk-Down Gully | ||||||
14 | ★★ Gently Mine | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
21 | ★★ Pig Iron Slaughter | 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent! Flash with pre-placed gear and beta - not having to place the bolts plates definitely takes away from the experience, so I'll have to come back for a redpoint. Bomber #1 and #3 camalots then all carrots.
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16 | ★★★ The Gates of Janus | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Absolutely brilliant splitter, maybe the most aesthetic crack I've seen in the mountains, seriously! Climbs great too, did feel easy, on second at least! Good lead by Ro with a small rack.
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Sun 8th Sep 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Wild is the Wind | 80m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Minor adventure at the end of the day with huge packs, topping out in the dark.
Challenging route finding on P1 and the start of P2, with the belay in an odd spot. After that, cruise home on jugs past the deluxe belay ledge for P3. |
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Sun 18th Aug 2013 - Wollondilly River Valley | ||||||
Perpendicular Rock | ||||||
FA Odyssey - Command Performance linkup - with James Bultitude | 100m | Crap | ||||
Please nobody ever repeat this! Go do Centerpoint, it looks great.
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Sun 18th Aug 2013 - Vaucluse | ||||||
Diamond Bay Northern Wall | ||||||
17 16 | ★ The Corner | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
The obvious line here. Accessible sea cliff consumer classic, sandy horror for the whole family.
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