Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Fri 22nd Mar 2024 - The Cathedral | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Dynamic Duo - with Jake Delaney | 18m | ||||
I mainly climbed fisticuffs once I could reach the crack. Those jams are too tempting
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18 | ★ Dobster's Diabolical Dihedral - with Jake Delaney | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Took my first Trad whip in a long time from a foot slip on the layback up the top. Blaming new shoes. Had a light bounce of the ledge below. Thrilling. Great climb. #7 is good for top
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24 | ★★ Prevenge - with Jake Delaney | 13m, 5 | ||||
Feels hard. Would love an extra inch of reach on this one
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16 | ★ Andromedary - with Jake Delaney | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Tried to stay on the face too long. When I got back to ground my boots were full of leeches. Such is life
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Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - The Cathedral | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
19 | ★★ Vitez - with Jake Delaney | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
quotes from this ascent in chronological order:
'why do i have all this stuff?'
'these are the worst conditions i've ever climbed in'
'f*ck oh f*ck its a leech'
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22 | ★★ Hercules - with Jake Delaney | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I was suprised to get a clean repeat of this after having a heat death on vitez. But the highlight of the day was then catching Jake Delaminate on the Longest Survivable Whip™ on his greenpoint attempt. fell from the chains to just below the first bolt. jeez louiz.
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Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
20 | ★ Torrential - with Jake Delaney | 25m | ||||
Oh lord. Insane lip contortion moves, loose choss everywhere. But I strangely loved it? Got to the last move and ran out of strength for the fingelock layback. Ended up finding a nice knee bar solution to get the top out.
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19 | ★★ Birthday Bolts - with Jake Delaney | 20m, 9 | ||||
Retreatd on lead, too scared to fall on the slabby section. Glad I bailed as the next holds ended up sucking too! A fun top rope time
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12 ~14 | ★ Constipation Chimney Variant Start - with Jake Delaney | 19m | ★ Good | |||
A nice traddy time and a wet rainy day
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Sun 17th Dec 2023 - Wahroonga Rocks | ||||||
Abseil Wall/Main Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ HJ | 6m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great fun! Route of the day. Cool first move and even an option for finger jams up top
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14 | ★★ Stingray | 14m | ||||
Nope. Another 14 sandbag
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14 ~15 | ★ Weeping Corner | 13m | ||||
Tricky after last carrot. Slap around for hidden jug
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14 | ★★ The Chimney | 13m, 1 | ||||
Some 14s here are not like the others. This one felt like 14 but none of the others!fun climb
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16 | ★★ Mixer 1 | 14m, 1 | ||||
Almost easier than the 14s to the right. Hard start but then fairly juggy
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14 ~16 | ★ Marshall's Variation | 13m | ||||
Tried it on lead but bailed due to the stiff runout start. Not close to a 14 in my book
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Sat 18th Nov 2023 - Bangor West | ||||||
13 | ★ Chicanery Crack | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Works well as an early Trad lead as suggested
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17 | ★ Grotto Crack | 9m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Can't believe I've never done this properly. I have bailed into the crack from the hand traverse routes but never done the worthwhile start. Quiet wide and burly. Some good fist jams
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19 | ★★ Fixed Steps | 10m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Not as strong as I remember
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12 | Mike's Photogenic Crack | 10m | ||||
I did this as purely an offwidth and had a great time! If you only use the crack and none of the great edges and jugs everywhere you can heel-toe and chicken wing the entire route! Good offwidth training.
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14 | ★ Get Tracked | 11m | ★★ Very Good | |||
What a great hand crack! Shame it stops at 2/3rd height where it gets a bit trickier.
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18 ~17 | ★ Active | 10m | Average | |||
Bit wet from seepage. Awkward moves and a trickier top. Glad to do it though.
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Sun 15th Oct 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
15 | ★★ The Pharaoh | 33m | Average | |||
i stubbornly tried to climb this like an offwidth and only managed to completely tire myself out. then i resorted to hauling on the breaks and it was much easier but not as fun
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Sun 15th Oct 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Descent Gully Area | ||||||
14 | ★ Great Unwashed Direct Start | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
awesome initial crack was a good challenge and then a lovely ease up to the top
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11 | ★ The Bonatti Crack | 8m | ||||
jamz. if only it was longer!
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Sun 15th Oct 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
8 | ★ Faith | 52m | ★★ Very Good | |||
checking gear placements for my friend on their first mountains lead! a nice climb
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11 | ★ Angular Crack | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
i thought this was great! it is definitely unusual 3D climbing but that wasnt a negative. loads more gear than you expect, mainly in the left face cracks
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15 | ★★★ Tombstone Wall | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
NOTE: new carrots dont fit right angle bolt plates.
so much going on in this climb. wild mantle, fairly limited gear and a pumpy overhanging topout. a real ewbank 15.... i made most of the mistakes i could possibly make and chickened out of the last moves above the bolt
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Yates Yard | ||||||
V1 | ★ LED | 3m | ||||
classic boulder retreat: holds run out up high, sun in eyes, slopers all around, Nope
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V0 | ★ Pristine Slab | |||||
yum holds
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V0+ | Big Palmer | |||||
such a good left hand start hold i had to get full value out of it.
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V0 | ★ Chute Up | |||||
tufas and smears
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V0 | ★ The Unbeatable High | |||||
Soundtracked by Riot by Dead Kennedys hence the name. a nice time. watch your head on the tree https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cxy8DuLypfT/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
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V1 | ★ Smear Out | ★ Good | ||||
if you like smeary slabs you will have fun. balancey
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V2 | ★★ Low Traverse — 3 attempts | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
great little climb!
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V1 | ★ Up In Arms | 2m | ★ Good | |||
cooool gaston move
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V2 | Snowflakes Assist | 4m | ||||
i think i did a messy combination of the 3 climbs in this spot.
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V4 | Snowflakes | 4m | ||||
cool line, crimps seem to run out when it gets high
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Earlwood | ||||||
19 | ★★ The Count | 9m, 3 | ||||
Harder than I remember but great
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16 | ★ Warm It Up | 10m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not as nut centric as I remembered. Beautiful climb though
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15 | ★ Cornered Again | 8m | ||||
Did it 3 times and made the crux steeper move way harder 2 of those times.
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14 | ★ Cornered | 9m | ||||
Got to place some big cams yum
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15 | ★ Pax | 8m | ||||
Slopey fun up top
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Mon 31st Jul 2023 - Jannali Reserve | ||||||
V0 | Corned Flakes | |||||
flakes
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V0 | ★ Na Na Na (Suprise) | ★ Good | ||||
rampy
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V1 | ★★ Toms Thumb | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thumbdercling was very fun
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V0 | ★ Pokemon | |||||
Pokemon mon mon
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V0 | ★★ Jug Jug | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great juggy route
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V0 | ★ Central Jug | |||||
Happy good times
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V1 | Glob | |||||
In Glob we trust
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V1 | ★ BA KU | ★ Good | ||||
an interesting time
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V3 | ★★ Oesophagus full of biscuits — 5 attempts | ★★ Very Good | ||||
fave new climb in this section
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Mon 10th Jul 2023 - The Cathedral | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
17 | Bye Forever | 19m | ||||
I've been wanting to climb this crack for a long time. turns out it doesn't climb much like a crack. Named after the FA's ironic farewell at the start of every climb. And today was the last time we will climb together for the foreseeable future so it couldn't be called anything else. I'll miss ya Jake
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18 | ★★ Buffalo Bum | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
now i have the awkward first move dialled this climb is a joy
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20 | ★★ Tourniquet | 18m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
climbed this the best i ever have. stayed left side in the whole way for a change. Green point
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Sat 1st Jul 2023 - Carss Park | ||||||
The Front Row | ||||||
V0 | People Power | |||||
V2 | Slap-A-Slab | ★ Good | ||||
V2 | ★★ Silky Smooth | ★★★ Classic | ||||
V1 | ★ Lux Interior | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County Memory Lane | ||||||
19 | ★★ Bairds Effort - with Jake Delaney | 37m | ||||
after entering full buns mode while on belay, i did a sickly aid second. this was the spark of a week of illness for me bleeehhh
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15 | ★ Bell Bottom Pants - with Jake Delaney | 25m | ||||
i better warm up on this as im not feeling too good...
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Sun 25th Jun 2023 - The Cathedral | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
20 | ★★ Wench in a Trench - with Jake Delaney | 18m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
where has the greenpoint tick type gone?? Anyway the greenpoint needed a #7 mainly and a #6 to leave behind in the tighter bits. and then gear of #1 and under for the top. I'll have the inserts ready soon to update page 175 of your guidebook with the greenpoint pic.
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18 | ★★ Buffalo Bum - with Jake Delaney | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
this felt easy today amazingly. a great confidence boost to start the day. but everything is easy when seconding
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17 Hard | Trivial Pursuit — 2 attempts - with Jake Delaney | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
dont believe the anti slab sentiment in the guidebook, it was a very enjoyable slab. once i figured out where to go. i stayed right of the first bolt to move up initially. great friction moves
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Mon 29th May 2023 - Narrabeen | ||||||
Slabs | ||||||
18 | ★★ Muscoviet Mosquito - with Jake Delaney | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Felt more tenuous, and harder, than lunatic. Less holds and more exciting for me. What a day of climbing, such a good easy to use crag.
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18 | ★★ Lunatic - with Jake Delaney | 19m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
A lovely time in nice iron seam crimps. Got confused at the top and stepped left before the anchors when old mate Jake McMuscles went straight to the power top.
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16 | ★ TPI - with Jake Delaney | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
So much good gear. More pieces than bolts on most climbs here. Great fun. Grade 16 Trad routes are probably my favourite thing to climb.
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19 | ★ Kicks - with Jake Delaney | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Get smeared. Really enjoyed this one, very engaging.
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16 ~18 | ★ Ag Science - with Jake Delaney | 18m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
First climb of the day and one of my favourites. Nice to be on a classic mike law route that isn't tough as nails.
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18 ~17 | ★★ Manic - with Jake Delaney | 17m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Felt easier to me than Ag science? I feel slabs are a bit hard to grade. Like offwidths. Another good slab.
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21 | ★ Frantic - with Jake Delaney | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Trying to figure out what holds belong to each climb seems to be part of the experience on this wall. A good one though. They are all good
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20 | ★★ Stan Lee Steamer - with Jake Delaney | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Pulled on the first bolt to get off the deck then went trad till second to penultimate bolt when I got too tired to place more gear. Messily climbed by me but definitely all goes on gear.
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Sat 20th May 2023 - The Cathedral | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
21 | ★★ Medieval Remedies - with Jake Delaney | 25m, 4 | ||||
A nice way to finish vitez. Some thin stuff on that headwall. Thank Glob for toprope
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21 | ★★ Young Bumblies - with Jake Delaney | 10m | ||||
Somewhat akward powerful start into a fantastic slab of supreme slimperz.
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20 | ★ The Quartermass Xperiment - with Jake Delaney | 12m, 3 | ||||
A strange one. Great burly start. Friction slab is imposing and the route finding is possibly the bigger challenge. We found left of the penultimate bolt to be the way to go.
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Tue 4th Apr 2023 - Evans Crown | ||||||
Crown Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★ Barad Dur - with Jake Delaney | 75m | ★★★ Classic | |||
first pitch is an unusual crack/layback situation with a big hard move at the end. the TR in TRad stands for TRees are on right? then two well bolted slab options for pitch 2/3 (do as one pitch) we went left as it wasnt a 'lichen deathscape' as described by Cake Dalmeney. and then the triumphant final pitch of one of the most enjoyable offwidths ive ever done. its a bummer someone has bolted the easy looking headwall 1m right of the crack. dont be tempted, get wide!
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17 ~20 | ★ Your Neighbourhood Bolter - with Jake Delaney | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
noticeably harder than the 19 slabs we had done on this trip. a lot more frictiony. awesome moves though
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Tue 4th Apr 2023 - Evans Crown | ||||||
Googolplex Crag | ||||||
20 | ★★ Rene's Ethical Neutrality - with Jake Delaney | 25m, 6 | ||||
has approx 10 bolts now. and i hung on many of them. great slabbing. still can pop the #3 cam in the volcano spot if you want but not essential
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19 | ★★ Saddam's Black Heart - with Jake Delaney | 25m | ||||
for some reason i am quite incapable of recalling this climb even hours after i did it. im sure it was good they all are.
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Tue 4th Apr 2023 - Evans Crown | ||||||
Deckout Buttress | ||||||
19 Easy | ★ Jonestown - with Jake Delaney | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
blew the onsight by going left up top onto the wet slopey zone and grabbed the chains instead of clipping. awesome climb though
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Sun 12th Feb 2023 - The Cathedral | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
17 | ★★ Ozone Action - with Jake Delaney | 20m, 3 | ||||
Oh man so much harder than I remember. And much less passive gear than I remember. I pumped out every few moves. Cathedral puts me in my place yet again!
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21 | ★★ Fat Crack - with Jake Delaney | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I lord. It's like 3 hard crack climbs on top of each other. And they all are a bit of a grovel. Chimney at the top really wore me down. Or maybe is was that fat leech that sapped my send juice just before
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16 | ★ Andromedary - with Jake Delaney | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
I always get confused when to step around the arete. Great first half though. And I didn't need to use the tree this time. It definitely goes without. But it seems to be via some holds that feel chipped. Did MikLawGelo get to excited? Maybe 3 24s in a row would have been too much.
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Fri 3rd Feb 2023 - Little Bay | ||||||
Cape Banks Tidal Area | ||||||
V2 | ★ Crabs R Hilarious — 6 attempts - with Rohan Nowell | 3m | ★ Good | |||
found this fun little grippy arete full of scoops and edges. last climb of the day and only just had it in me.
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Fri 3rd Feb 2023 - Little Bay | ||||||
Cape Banks | ||||||
V1 | ★ Express Corner — 4 attempts | 3m | ||||
Tricky
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VB | ★★ Barnacle | 3m | ||||
Croc ascent
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VB | ★ Bunco | 3m | ||||
Croc ascent
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V3 | ★★ Suncorp — 3 attempts | 4m | ||||
I only saw just now that it says to avoid the arete jugs of st George. Hmm we did it that way and it was fun and still felt like a v3
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V2 | ★ St George | 4m | ||||
Good times
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Wed 25th Jan 2023 - Orroral area | ||||||
Orroral Ridge Honeysuckle Crag Right Group | ||||||
17 ~19 | ★ Live Injection - with Jake Delaney | 15m | ||||
Climbs like an offwidth. A slog. Fun though. Top half is off first size which was a battle. So it matches the arduous bushbashing needed to find this climb and to get to the whole crag. A battle but worth it.
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Tue 24th Jan 2023 - Orroral area | ||||||
Orroral Ridge Honeysuckle Crag Main Crag | ||||||
16 ~17 | ★★★ Deep Space - Sickle - with Jake Delaney | 90m | ||||
Fun. Runout. Tiny ACT gear. The move into the crack in the last pitch was too scary so I got Jake to lead it. It wasn't as bad as I thought when I seconded. Good ACT slab timez
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Tue 24th Jan 2023 - Orroral area | ||||||
Orroral Ridge Legoland Atrium | ||||||
16 | ★ California Dreaming - with Jake Delaney | 10m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I had a great time on this. I was surprised to find it actually felt like a 16 to me instead of 2-3 grades harder I have come to expect from act granite.
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12 | Full House - with Jake Delaney | 15m, 3 | ||||
We were a bit lost, no internet, hadn't seen any evidence of climbs all day until I spotted the shiny bolts on this guy. Then old mate Delaney managed to figure out where we were. So I though it would be good to climb this route that helped so much. We thought it was a different climb but still. Hard first 2 moves for the grade then a romp-a-saurus to the top. Anchor gear a bit fiddly
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22 | ★★ Easy Wind - with Jake Delaney | 20m | ||||
Seconded to remove gear. Aided through all the hard parts until I could stand upon a foot in the crack. Then I enjoyed the easier climb to the finish!
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21 | ★★ Pas de Deux - with Jake Delaney | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
One peel off the wall. Damn. A really great climb I enjoyed every moment although every moment was foot pain. I need to develop those ACT slab big toe muscles.
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Mon 26th Dec 2022 - The Cathedral | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
17 Hard | Trivial Pursuit - with Jake Delaney | 10m, 3 | ||||
Thought it would be an easy warmup to monopoly but felt even more committing. As Jake said; I may as well bake in the sun standing on crsytals of the climb I came here to do. Cool though
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18 | ★ Monopoly — 5 attempts - with Jake Delaney | 10m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Finally trusted those crystals. What a great slab. The slabbiest of slabs. Highly recommend.
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23 | ★★★ Hercules Extension - with Jake Delaney | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
So glad I wasn't doing the top moves on lead. Big first move of the extension seems a long way off too. But those rope moves are amazing.
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Sat 3rd Dec 2022 - Carss Park | ||||||
The Front Row | ||||||
V2 | ★★ Silky Smooth | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mmmmmm so bulgy and prominent
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V1 | ★ Lux Interior | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Love it
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V2 | ★ The Lichen Street Shuffle — 5 attempts | |||||
Spend half an hour balancing on your big toes trying to find some more feet. Who doesn't love a downward trending slab traverse?
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