Ascents of Cheeky Chinchilla Crack

First things first, the grade….

I’m grading/proposing 25 but consider it on the soft end of the grade depending on height/reach. If you have a sub 195cm span that initial move into the roof might be brutal 🤷‍♂️ (I'm 199/200 and can just reach)

Blueies locals and the 2nd FFA should definitely give feedback on grade so it can be confirmed or adjusted.

So here’s my rationale for grade 25:

• Very beta intensive; once it was dialed it was a matter of executing and being mindful of all the micro beta. The actual effort output felt comparable to Screaming Insanity at Coolum.
• It’s comparable to, but a step or two above, Two Men Enter (24) at Flinders Peak QLD, which took me two shots.
• I’ve put down a number of sport 23 and 24s in 1-3 shots the past few months, this took 8 pink point attempts.

Just so damn psyched that I could add a sweet roof crack smack in the middle of one of the Blueies most famous multi pitches.

I really do think the movement on this makes it a classic; from the absurd long reach move into the roof, the cut loose, the inversion and a dead point to a hand jam…. it’s novel, climbs very well and the gear is primo. 👌

Thanks to John and Ondra who enthusiastically did several laps up BBB with me and to everyone who tolerated my frothing about this random roof crack I saw over a year ago.

(PS: any future ascenionists, shoot me a message if you want gear beta so you don’t have to carry the whole rack up BBB)

So so so so so so close 😭

Well, looks like the trip is being extended again! Just cannot leave with a send being that close.

Feel pretty confident with it being grade 25 as its harder than any previous trad route I’ve done, even after figuring out all moves and gear.

This thing is cooked: a wide boys style heel toe cam into the roof crack leading into a dead point to a hand jam. Maybe there is other beta but by George it works and does it feel amazing to climb!

Managed to aid through the roof today and find all key holds + placements. Some wild, wide-boys style beta needed to climb Chinchilla but it actually started to look possible after the gear was found and holds had some chalk.

After trying the moves, and sticking a few of them, thinking the grade is 25ish. Today technically an FA, albeit in the most hang-dogging of styles. Aiming for an FFA attempt next week.

3 ties in to progressively figure out how to enter the roof crack. Turns out the direct line is some of the absolute worst choss you can imagine. Spent 15 minutes sketchily cleaning rock before down climbing and seeking another way. Best line seems to be BBB for a few bolts and then traversing right.

High point was entering the roof crack, getting an inverted heel tool cam into the roof pod but only to have a hold rip out and then taking an upside down whip back onto the wall. But the gear held!

Couldn’t get the FA today as it needs two BD 5s to protect (one for end of traverse, one for roof pod) and only had one.

Feeling like the minimum grade might be 24? Hoping to get back in a week or two with more big gear.

The route name continues the areas trend of alliterating rodents.