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Ascents in Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd by Paul Frothy Thomson

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 620 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Sat 18th Feb 2023 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater
26 Charlie Don't Surf - with Simmo, alyssa smirnov, Jared Anderson Sport 70m, 18 Very Good
Decided to try linking the Monteith Memorial Traverse (L-R 24) into P1 of this for a 50m enduro-monster (belayed from the cozy ledge). Turns out it's okay with some rope management, but quite the undertaking!

I found P1 of this very tough placing the draws, and absent chalk, though all of the moves went okay (ableit with a few exciting falls to piece them together).

If I'm back here belaying people on Thin Line, I'll probably try for this linkup as an arbitrary challenge.

 
23 ~24 Monteith Memorial Traverse - with Simmo, alyssa smirnov, Jared Anderson Sport 12m Good
Decided to try linking this traverse into P1 of Charlie Don't Surf (26) for a 50m enduro-monster (belayed from the cozy ledge). Turns out it's okay with some rope management, but quite the undertaking!

This traverse is super techo and balancy, and quite hard when unchalked and absent beta.

 
24 The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Simmo, alyssa smirnov, Jared Anderson Trad 75m Mega Classic
Clean repeat. So much fun! A great warmup, and just what the doc ordered after a rather trying week.

 
Sat 26th Nov 2022 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Walls Lookdown
25 Let Freedom Ring - with Match
4 25 32m Second

2 clean laps on second. It took me 10+ goes to figure out the first move to turn the roof, after which I punched out the entire pitch clean as a warmup.

Very sustained, awesome technical face climbing, with a

5 20 18m Second

Short 'n sweet.

6 25 30m Sport

Came so damn close on the onsight! Fought tooth and nail, with no chalk, or wear, up a cryptic, featureless, wandery, "gritstone padding" face... Only to break a footer off up high (admittedly, getting scrappy with my footwork, amidst much pump).

I really rated this pitch. Super techo, and brutal if you have bad footwork.

Sport 80m Classic
Top 3 pitches, mostly to support Mitch in his efforts, but it also gave me a chance to tidy up some pitches I hadn't ticked on this one.

Doing just the top 4 pitches (from the Big Ledge) is relatively easy access, and is inarguably a proper classic outing. There aren't many hard(ish) sport multis in the Blueys with this level of consistent quality.

 
Sat 8th Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Banksy Wall
24 Sanction of the Victim Extension - with Gerry Narkowicz, Simmo Sport 35m, 19 Mega Classic
Repeat attempt -not clean today. After 7 days on, I'm buggered. Still a hilarious steep romp, though!

Bone dry even in all this rain!

 
22 Sanction of the Victim - with Gerry Narkowicz, Simmo Sport 22m, 13 Very Good
Clean repeat. This has got to be one of the coolest steep sport routes at the grade, right?

 
Fri 7th Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bowens Creek Main Wall Centre
25 97% Fat-Free - with Simmo, Gerry Narkowicz Sport 20m Very Good
EOD Repeat attempt... definitely not clean today. From about 2/3rds up, I was dead tired, and just went bolt to bolt.

With a rebolt, this would be back to classic status. Such classy rock and climbing!

 
26 The Big Bang Is On - with Simmo, Gerry Narkowicz Sport 25m Very Good
2nd shot. Pretty chuffed with this, as I hadn't actually been able to do any of the 3 hard sequences on my first go, and had to improvise on the fly as I accidentally kept getting higher. Man, I was hanging out below that top crux for like 20 minutes trying to figure it out on the Send!

The rock is a mixed bag, but the moves are great! Steep and varied, and sustained all the way to the anchor clip.

I started from the first bolt. There was a cairn that was knocked over (I think it's to make the start go?) that I couldn't be bothered rebuilding. Has anyone done the start at 26ish without the cairn?

 
Fri 7th Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bowens Creek Main Wall Left
20 Kraut Pleaser - with Simmo, Gerry Narkowicz Sport 15m, 6 Very Good
Clean repeat. Just the right amount of warmup

 
Tue 4th Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Bunny Bucket Buttress and Hotel California Area
18 Bunny Bucket Buttress - with Gerry Narkowicz Sport 270m Classic
Clean repeat. Giving The Mullet himself the guided tour of the Blueys.

Still a great romp at the grade.

 
Sun 12th Jun 2022 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area The Freezer
30 Detache Mode - with Match Sport 28m Very Good
2 shots. Still haven't quite latched the dyno (getting closer, though), but the move immediately after is my crux. The rest of the route felt easier than a year ago, but still lots of work to do.

 
26 Lactictoc - with Match Sport 28m Classic
Warm up - Just up to the upper crux (2nd last bolt) where I jumped off. Makes for an awesome warmup that way. Damn this one's a good'un.

 
Sun 13th Mar 2022 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Bunny Bucket Buttress and Hotel California Area
25 Big Nose - with Heath Black
1 21 45 Sport lead by Heath Black
2 25 45 Sport lead by Paul Frothy Thomson
3 24 30 Sport lead by Paul Frothy Thomson
4 15 30 Sport lead by Paul Frothy Thomson
5 20 30 Sport lead by Heath Black
6 20 30 Sport lead by Paul Frothy Thomson
7 21 30 Sport lead by Heath Black
8 18 40 Sport lead by Paul Frothy Thomson
Sport 280m Good
The climbing is upper echelon "Very Good", but the bolting is so unceasingly garbage that I can't give this better than "Good".

P2 was quite sustained, with consistently rad moves up the arete (and a funky gritstone finale) but seemed rather easy at the grade (though I can see it being nails if you're short). Regardless, I was pretty stoked to onsight it in good style.

The crux of the day were the moves to the 2nd bolt on P3, which was a solid V4 for me. I'm wondering if the recent storms have caused the block you start on to slide down the ledge, or whether perhaps there used to be a cairn there? I'm keen to hear others' opinions who repeat this after me.

Most pitches were good. The crazy roof on P5 was super unlikely, and the spine chiller traverse was great!

Regarding my criticism of the bolting:

  • Runouts with near constant ledgefall potential.

  • Terrible bolt placements -over-recessed (biner snappers) and constantly out of reach even at my height.

  • Irrational belay stances -Bolts too high, or far too low, or a hanging belay instead of on a big ledge?

Prospective multipitch new routers should climb this if only to learn what not to do.

 
Sun 20th Feb 2022 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Colliery Far North Cliffs The Shark's Fin
23 Dorsal Fin - with Heath Black Sport 30m Very Good
Clean repeat. Awesome to get back on this almost 10 years after I first put it up, and not be dissappointed with the route or my equipping.

Also rather psyched to just punch it out placing draws despite it being obviously untrafficked, cause it's quite hard to read and rather committing. Genuinely good arete climbing, and something quite different to other aretes in this grade range in the Blueys.

 
Sun 20th Feb 2022 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Colliery Far North Cliffs
19 Gina Climb-hard - with Heath Black
1 19 20m lead by Heath Black
2 19 20m lead by Paul Frothy Thomson
3 17 20m
Trad 60m Mega Classic
Clean repeat. One of the most unique cracks you'll find at this grade in the Blueys. Genuinely should be on every crack enthusiast's tick list, because this $#!ts on many of the overly-repeated "classics" around the place.

P2 in particular is mind blowing terrain!

 
Sun 20th Feb 2022 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Colliery South Cliffs
19 FIFO Hooker - with Heath Black Trad 35m Classic
Clean Repeat Seconding Mont. Even all these years later, this is just a bloody great crack climb. Quite a fair bit more demanding than similar graded routes at Piddo or Cosmic.

 
Sun 20th Feb 2022 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Colliery Access Gully Area
24 Inverted Canaries - with Julie Pon, Zuni Dierk Trad 20m Good
A couple of attempts. I was pretty happy with the progress I made given that I've never tried to climb this sort of roof offwidth (where I couldn't avoid using the proper technique), but I just couldn't quite finish it out. Bringing a more appropriate set of climbing shoes, socks, long pants, and spare blood would probably have helped as well Regardless, I certainly learned lots.

A pretty accessible way to learn these sorts of "pony shuffling" techniques in the Blue Mountains.

Big congratz to Zuni on the FA!

 
Sat 29th Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Pierces Pass West Side
26 The Watchers On The Wall - with David Dearnley
1 20 45m lead by David Dearnley
2 23 25m lead by David Dearnley
3 25 25m lead by Paul Frothy Thomson
4 26 25m lead by Paul Frothy Thomson
Sport 120m Very Good
The good bits were really good, the bad bits were really bad... so: standard blueys sport multi, then?

Proper humid conditions today meant gallons of sweat.

P1 was kinda junk, with lots of loose rock and about 5m of good climbing, but I'm happy to take it as the price of admission.

P2 was a fairly pleasant slab with an interesting start, thin finish, and inoffensive easy middle.

P3 (2nd shot pink point) was rad varied steep face climbing. Fairly sustained at 24 with a hard crux down low to earn 25. Would be classic as a single pitch anywhere else. On my onsight, I couldnt get on the mid-crux draw, and ended up whipping back to the belay!

P4 (10 milionth shot red point) has a hideously nails start boulder to gain the stance below roof (the hardest move on the entire route for me... took me about 15 shots to stick it, made harder when I broke off one of the key holds). Then a wild boulder througbh a body length roof 100m off the deck (took me 3 shots to stick it), with a few punchy moves after turning the lip. Unfortunately, everythimg above this point is hideous sand, and I did not enjoy it. Full disclosure: after sticking the initial boulder, i didnt lower back to the belay to send the pitch properly after figuring out the roof sequence, I just went from thr no-hands rest below the roof (3m up from the belay).

I think the grades are bang-on. I reckon P4 would feel 25 in anything less than a billion percent humidity, though in today's conditions it felt every bit a 26

All in all, though, a worthy day out, just one I'm not in a hurry to repeat. We did it in about 7 hours car to car (including the redpointing of the pitcheS).

 
Sat 1st Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Banksy Wall
25 Philosopher's Zone Extension Sport 29m, 16 Good
2 shots. Got a bit schooled by this. I put together the sequence, but never really came close to linking it on the send burn. Essentially: a 5-move boulder-problem around a rooflet off a sitdown rest. Not my favourite route ever

 
23 Philosopher's Zone Sport 22m, 9 Good
x2. Clean Repeat to warmup.

 
30 Bankrolla Sport 18m, 10 Very Good
Just the one attempt, sussing the moves. There were two moves I didn't do, but the mid-traverse crux seemed the sort of move I'd never be capable of. Average rock, but radical moves for the most part.

 
Sun 26th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater
27 Two Nobodies in the Middle of Nowhere (Arguing over Nothing) - with Martin Cankov Sport 80m Classic
Repeat attempt lap for EOD training - Not clean today. Still spooge on this as well, but at least this is more fun and less sketchy when its bad connies.

 
Lifeless Nobody - Project Paul - with Martin Cankov Mixed trad 45m, 13 Mega Classic
2 Redpoint burns. Worst conditions I've had here yet, and probably my worst laps on this in months. Quite frustrating. Slimed off at the worst point and took the scariest fall possible on this route. After that, I didn't have much psyche for another lap.

 
Sun 19th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Duck Wall
28 27 Quack Attack Sport 15m Good
Just one the lap. Brutally thin, and lots of very average rock. I think I'd probably have enjoyed this before the decent edge above the 3rd bolt broke off, but since its breakage this seems -to me- to be more suffering than fun. The steep bit is enjoyable enough.

 
24 23 Scrooge McDuck Sport 25m Very Good
Repeat attempt, not clean today. I got schooled by the crux of my own route today until I remembered the trick to doing it.

 
Sat 18th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater
24 The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Matt King, Match, Nathan Kenny, Michael Moore Trad 75m Mega Classic
Clean repeat. Climbed on Michael's gear to exit the crag (and strip the route) at the end of the day.

 
Lifeless Nobody - Project Paul - with Match, Nathan Kenny, Matt King, Michael Moore Mixed trad 45m, 13 Mega Classic
Day 4: 3 more shots, but apparently 30 degree weather isn't ideal for climbing the hardest you've climbed. Probably had my 2nd best effort so far, despite this.

Still haven't managed to link the entire upper section in one, though

 
Sun 12th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater
Lifeless Nobody - Project Paul - with Gavin Mixed trad 45m, 13 Mega Classic
3 more shots. No new highpoint, but made it through the crux of Life Without Meaning all 3 times (best ratio yet), and refined the moves on the Two Nobodies traverse.

Last week I thought I fell off from the top bolt on link cause I was tired at the end of a long day... Today I learned that I fell off because its hard to have much oomph for those final moves at the end of such intense climbing, regardless of how fit you're feeling. Linking that top move will be haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaard.

 
Sat 11th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater
19 Call Out Culture - with Lucy Trad 95m Very Good
Seconding Lucy on her Birthday multipitch. Linked Pitches 1 and 2 into a MegaPitch™ at about 45m in length, and to a more obvious belay.

We felt that an abundance of Large Cams was overkill (more #1's and lots of slings seemed a better option), but we wished we'd brought more Micros for the top of the 3rd pitch (we had 3).

A fun adventure, with lots of Old Skool moves, but some major sections of rubbish rock. Pitch 2 and the top of Pitch 3 were the highlights.

NOTE: Even after multiple weeks of torrential rain, only the top 8m or so of this get wet!

 
Sat 4th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater
Lifeless Nobody - Project Paul - with Match Mixed trad 45m, 13 Mega Classic
3 more shots. On my last shot of the day, in spoogy conditions, I managed to link all the way to the last bolt before falling off... Took a 12m fall as a result, but damn it was awesome fun!

 
24 The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Match Trad 75m Mega Classic
Repeat. Only to half height to retrieve a stuck cam from last weekend, but I then downclimbed on lead all the way through the bottom crux clean as well, so I'm logging an ascent

 
Sun 28th Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater
24 The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Jared Anderson Trad 75m Mega Classic
Clean repeat - EOD Pinkpoint lap to facilitate retrieving Marty Doolan 's in situ gear.

Man, sport trad is fun.

 
Lifeless Nobody - Project Paul - with Jared Anderson, Marty Doolan Mixed trad 45m, 13 Mega Classic
2 shots. Refamiliarising with the top half of One Somebody, and sussing how this will go with rope drag and associated shenanigans.

Maybe the best pure resistance route of this grade in the Blueys? Unrelenting.

 
Sat 27th Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bowens Creek Main Wall Left
28 The Brute from the Balkans - with Jared Tyerman, Stephen Varney Sport 30m Very Good
2 shots, with some "okay" linkage on the second. Some cool climbing at about gr26, with a proper hard boulder problem (with 2 nails moves) near the tippy top. 2 particularly hard moves on the boulder earn this one the grade. Some wild positions, but lapping Boy from Oz would surely get old fast if I was projecting this.

 
27 Fuel My Fire - with Jared Tyerman, Stephen Varney Sport 12m Good
One long investigatory lap. Essentially a very hard boulder (v5/6?) guarding gr24 climbing to the anchor. I never managed the big move to the jug rail at the start despite a fair bit of effort. Cool climbing, but sandy, disintegrating rock.

 
24 Fox Force Five - with Stephen Varney, Jared Tyerman Sport 15m Very Good
Clean Repeat. 2 bolts of surprisingly hard and sustained bouldering, then easier to the top. Shame the rock at the start is so average, because its great for the majority of it.

 
22 Shut the Gate - with Stephen Varney, Jared Tyerman Sport 15m Very Good
Clean repeat. A rad ending, preceded by okay climbing.

 
20 Kraut Pleaser - with Jared Tyerman, Stephen Varney Sport 15m, 6 Very Good
Clean Repeat - Good warmup, great rock.

 
Sat 20th Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater
27 Two Nobodies in the Middle of Nowhere (Arguing over Nothing) - with Match, Gavin Sport 80m Classic
P1 Clean repeat. Great to retick this in only a day, and some less-than-ideal conditions. x3 laps to score the retick. Really fun technical power-endurance climbing.

 
24 The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Match, Gavin Trad 75m Mega Classic
Another clean repeat, this time seconding Gavin on his successful pink-point. Dreeeeeeeamy

 
Wed 17th Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater
27 Two Nobodies in the Middle of Nowhere (Arguing over Nothing) - with Stephen Varney Sport 80m Classic
EOD cool-down lap over a year since I was last on it. Bloody great climbing, and was psyched to get quite a bit of linkage despite the lack of chalk, and half-remembered beta.

 
28 Life Without Meaning - with Stephen Varney Mixed trad 40m, 11 Mega Classic
Day 12, sent 2nd redpoint shot today. Finally, after struggling with conditions, weather, injuries, belayer mutinies ( ), and some hideously unlucky throw-away laps, I managed to keep it together despite a really inopportune foot slip, and score the FA. At the top I started shaking, and and had to RAWR the rock into submission for the final moves. This is one of only a handful of times I've ever celebrated on a Send. One of my top 3 lines I've ever put up for sure.

 
Sat 13th Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater
28 Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Match Mixed trad 40m, 11 Classic
Day 11: Just the one redpoint burn before bailing from the worst conditions I'e ever had. After all the rain the waterfall was pumping, but the 80kmph gusting winds were blowing said waterfall all over the route, and the belay.

On my one burn I powered through the crux like a boss, only to have an epic clipping at the end of the sideways runout due to clipping hold being proper wet. After this I went from below this sequence to the anchor. I just seriously need a bit of luck out here.

 
Sat 6th Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater
28 Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Will Vidler Mixed trad 40m, 11 Classic
Day 10 - 4 more redpoint burns, new highpoint on the jug one move from the no hands rest, on my last shot of the day, pumped to oblivion and unable to finish it off. Got unlucky on the first 2 burns (one fall I ended up BELOW Will after falling off), and had a dry slip while crushing on my 3rd.

2 more days of good connies and I reckon I can get this done.

 
Wed 3rd Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater
28 Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Jared Anderson Mixed trad 40m, 11 Classic
Day 9. Equalled my 2nd best highpoint 3 times (out of 4 redpoint burns) but still didn't push any higher. This still makes it my best ratio going through the low crux. More epic beta refinement until I was so tired I could barely jumar out. Forgetting my brush did NOT help things today.

 
Mon 1st Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater
28 Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Match Mixed trad 40m, 11 Classic
Day 8. No new highpoint, though I came up with more reliable (though burlier) beta for the first boulder crux, and totally new beta for the move I fell off on my highpoint (which means I should never do THAT again... assuming I ever get there again).

 
Sun 31st Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Banksy Wall
24 Sanction of the Victim Extension Sport 35m, 19 Mega Classic
Clean repeat. Up-climbed and down-climbed BOTH pitches clean in a single push placing draws. 70m of steep mega pump, baby! Tonnes of thuggy fun.

 
Sun 31st Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Bottom Floor
22 The Block - with Match
1 17 20m lead by Match
2 20 20m lead by Paul Frothy Thomson
3 22 25m lead by Paul Frothy Thomson
4 21 30m lead by Match
Trad 95m Very Good
Surprisingly good! Would be classic but for an utterly disgusting exit pitch.

P2 has a nails start, then becomes great laybacking and bottomless chimneying. P3 has a beautiful narrow-corner crack followed by a very rad (but kinda weird) bolted slab that I was working proper hard to onsight. P4 is a blight on the landscape... but at least its short!

Therr is a certain archetype of traddy climber in the blueys that NEEDS to get on this - hugh sutherland I'm looking at you!

 
Wed 27th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Dalpura Head Dalpura Wall
24 Crankenstein - with Heath Black, Match
1 24 35m lead by Paul Frothy Thomson
2 24 40m lead by Heath Black
3 23 35m lead by Paul Frothy Thomson
Sport 110m Good
Some sections of great climbing, but marred by crappy carrots (albeit, lots of them!), plenty of bad rock, dirt, moss, and the really weird line it takes up the feature.

My recommendation for the pitch grades are 24, 24, 23.

Pitch 1 COULD be great, but the key holds are very very temporary, and I had to climb it on eggshells for the flash. We placed draws as we rapped over it, and ticked up key holds, though I had no climbing beta for the send.

I went for the onsight epic on P2, and had just stuck the upper slab crux (certain it was in the bag) when I ripped off a huge -unlikely- jug and whipped. After belaying Monty, I had to settle for seconding it clean taking off the bolt plates.

Pitch 3 had a tough start, then simply oodles of delicate climbing on crap rock at about grade 21.

All in all, a fun day out with friends (and not quite the epic we were anticipating) but far from classic.

 
Sun 24th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater
28 Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Match, Luke Hef Mixed trad 40m, 11 Classic
Day 7 - The closest I've come yet. Now including the bottom boulder problem into the rest of the pitch, I fell off on the final moves of the lower half before the no-hands rest. Then on the "one-sit" attempt, I actually stuck the move I normally fall off at the tippy top, but bungled a footer and didn't make the easier moves... But at the end of a big day, I was wrecked.

 
24 The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Match, Luke Hef Trad 75m Mega Classic
Clean repeat. Seconding Luke at the end of a double-send (of this route) day. Awesome!

 
Sat 16th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater
28 Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Match Mixed trad 40m, 11 Classic
Day 5. 3 more laps, and twice more the final move gets me. Groundhog day, much?

 
Sun 10th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater
24 Charlie Don't Surf - with Vicky Chen
1
2 24 25m
Sport 25m, 18 Classic
Repeat attempt, not clean today. After 160m over 4 pitches (the easiest of which was gr24), trying to lead out this was not one of my smarter ideas. I battled hard, but linking it was never really going to be possible. Great, steep-ish face climbing, though.

 
24 The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Vicky Chen Trad 75m Mega Classic
Seconding Vicky to exit the crag. Clocking up frequent climber miles on this mega classic.

 
28 Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Vicky Chen Mixed trad 40m, 11 Classic
Day 4, 3 more laps. Falling off the final moves at the top of this is fast becoming a theme, here. The sequence is hard in isolation, but after 35m climbing it's hard to have the internal discipline to boulder it out. I put in a lot of effort to refining the sequence, and I think I have finally sorted it out (albeit with the loss of a LOT of skin). The biggest concerns now are exhausting all my (wonderful) belayers, or it getting too hot this season.

 
Wed 6th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater
24 The Thin Line of Reprieve Trad 75m Mega Classic
Clean Repeat. Seconding Dave on his successful Red Point of this route. Sweeeeet. Felt pretty gnarly today after all my time on the proj, but fun fun fun.

 
28 Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) Mixed trad 40m, 11 Classic
3 more shots. Twice fell off the final crux right at the tippy top. The low crux is still giving me a lot of grief, though. So much fun, falling off doesn't matter all that much (though running out of climbing partners does ).

 
Sun 3rd Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater
24 Tradfear - with Heath Black
1 17 15m lead by Heath Black
2 24 35m lead by Paul Frothy Thomson
3 22 12m lead by Paul Frothy Thomson
4 22 25m lead by Paul Frothy Thomson
Mixed trad 87m, 6 Good
A great outing up a major feature (visible from Perry's!) but not necessarily a great route. Steep and atmospheric, but generally average rock. All of the various cruxes are above gear, which makes this feel like a real trad route, despite a few bolts.

The quite bold start to P2 had me get scared and jump off twice before I could change my headspace and push through the runout crux for the send, after which I flashed to the top. A great pitch which is crazy overhanging through multiple roofs.

Pitch 3 is short and steep up an overhanging offset arete, but the rock is hideous.

Pitch 4 is basically unprotected until you regain Superdyke (after which the rock and climbing greatly increase).

 
Fri 1st Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater
28 Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Stephen Varney, Ben Sanford Mixed trad 40m, 11 Classic
2 shots. HARD! Some of the most complex and technical steep climbing I've ever done. The dyno at half-height through the roof is outrageous, and the top 15m headwall is nearly Hairline-levels of mega, up a series of improbable linked features. Still one move I've never worked out near the start.

 
27 Proleptic Decrepitude and Despair - with Stephen Varney, Ben Sanford Mixed trad 40m, 9 Classic
Repeat attempt -not clean today. I couldn't do the boulder-crux move at all today, despite many attempts at it -it was just too humid! Managed to test the gear with some big falls, though Lots of fun to chuck a "carefree" lap on it, though.

 
Sun 12th Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater
27 Proleptic Decrepitude and Despair - with Stephen Varney Mixed trad 40m, 9 Classic
3rd shot today (8th lap total over 3 days) placing gear on the send.

Almost botched it through the steep prow at the top when -pumped to blazes- I got the key cam stuck with only half the lobes in, and was unable to fix. In the end I just went for it anyway and committed to the runout, but I would not have wanted to fall!

I used 9 bolts and 8 bits of trad over the 40m, but there are other trad options available as well. Super steep climbing in an outrageous position, with an awesome mix of powerful and technical moves. Marred by some coarse rock, and wandery sequences (though I see the latter as a positive ).

Might be 26, but it usually doesn't take me 8 shots to climb a 26 these days, so who knows.

 
Wed 8th Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater
27 Proleptic Decrepitude and Despair (Project Paul) Mixed trad 40m, 9 Classic
3 laps. Got some good linkage, but the full link is going to be an endurance test. Bloody steep! 27ish? Perfect conditions today, I hate to think how hard this would be if it was humid.

 
24 The Thin Line of Reprieve Trad 75m Mega Classic
Clean repeat. Still freaking awesome. Great to get back on this seconding Dave and just have a pleasant, stress-free lap. Samarkand, Echo Crack, Grasshopper, Top of the Pops and Thin Line of Reprieve... The mega classic must-do list for mid-20's trad climbing.

 
Sun 5th Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater
27 Project Paul Mixed trad 40m, 9 Classic
2 laps on TRS. Arctic weather, with the wind blasting me with waterfalls from either side. Made some progress.

 
Sat 21st Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Sunnyside
25 The Reality Dysfunction - with Match Sport 20m, 12 Classic
Repeat. Those last moves at the top were surprising after cruising everything below. Downclimbed back to the low-crux for added pump.

 
Sat 21st Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag The Devils Circus
27 The Dark Hour of Reason - with Ben Jenga, Mitch Perkins, Match Sport 15m, 8 Classic
3 more shots. Some good linkage, and probably seem more achievable than it has in the past. Awesome, compact, sustained power-endurance climbing on great rock. Much better than I remember.

 
Sat 7th Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag The Devils Circus
27 Epsilon Asylum - with Match, Mitch Perkins, Ben Jenga Sport 18m, 10 Very Good
2 shots. With the epic beta spiel from Mitch, I flashed to the 3rd last bolt... but only managed to go one move higher on my second shot A radical start, followed by sustained juggy steepness, with a gnarly steep face-climbing finale on great rock (right when you're pumped to oblivion). But for the encouragement of my buddies, I would never have considered this ugly duckling worth getting on, and I would have missed out!

 
24 PHM3 - with Match, Mitch Perkins, Ben Jenga Sport 10m, 6 Very Good
Clean repeat. Sharp and hideous... but awesomely steep and punchy. More fun than I remembered.

 
Sat 26th Jun 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bowens Creek Main Wall Centre
23 A0 23 A0 Broken Blonde Gift - with Jared Tyerman Sport 25m Good
Climbs better with a single point of aid than in the hideously bouldery free version. I had a bit of a crack at the crux, but was too shouldery for me at the moment. Otherwise: a nice start on great rock, and a fairly punchy pleasant section above the crux.

 
24 Itinerate Immigrants - with Jared Tyerman Sport 25m Very Good
Better than it looks. The rock is consistently average, but the climbing is consistently fun and engaging, with plenty of rests throughout. The bouldery start wasn't too bad, and the surprisingly steep upper section is quite juggy.

 
Sat 26th Jun 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bowens Creek Main Wall Left
22 Bustin Dustin - with Jared Tyerman Sport 15m, 4 Good
Clean repeat. A very hard start and finish, with an inconsequential middle. The bolting on this is utterly stupid.

 
Sun 16th May 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County Memory Lane
26 25 Letters to the Editor - with Rob Medlicott Sport 25m, 6 Classic
2nd shot today. By far the hardest of the "Grade 25 Trilogy of Face Classics at Cosmic", and quite a fair bit harder/more sustained than Aesthetic Images. Very sustained, with four demanding cruxes, but all of the bolts are in really bad condition, and the runouts on this at two points are downright dangerous.

 
Sun 16th May 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County The 39 Steps
24 Fading Light - with Rob Medlicott Mixed trad 27m, 3 Good
EOD lap on Second to see if this one is worth the effort. Fell off at the first crux, rope stretch sent me back to 2m off the ground. Then climbed clean from 2m up to the top. Would that I had lowered those 2m (of grade 18 ). With maybe 2 more bolts and a bit of TLC, this could be a "very good" R-rated route, as it currently is, it's a "good" R/X. Some great hard moves on mixed-quality rock, but basically a death route to climb absent headpoint.

 
22 Building a Better Mousetrap - with Rob Medlicott Sport 25m, 9 Classic
Clean repeat. Some weird equipping, but engaging, sustained face climbing that gets thinner and more desperate all the way to the top. Maybe a bit overbolted in the top half.

 
Sun 16th May 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County Memory Lane
20 Mindblower - with Rob Medlicott Mixed trad 20m, 3 Classic
Clean repeat. A bloody great warmup, even after all these laps.

 
Sun 4th Apr 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area The Freezer
24 Rat$ - with Rob Medlicott Sport 20m Very Good
Clean repeat. A proper gnarly sequence off the ledge. The hardest moves (and possibly the coolest) on this wall of the Freezer. Got to try hard.

 
22 Extension Lead - with Rob Medlicott Sport 20m Good
Clean repeat. Yep, the start is still the best bit. Linked into the top of Rat$ for some added challenge.

 
29 Pinking - with Rob Medlicott Sport 28m Very Good
2 shots. Clean to the roof (25ish to here?) and did most of the headwall as a link, but there was a single crimp sequence to turn the roof (on bad feet) that I didn't really figure out. Hard to say if it would be possible for me if fresh. Some gnarly runouts down low, but still probably the best "slab" of the 3 hard routes here. The headwall is also great climbing, and nicely scrubbed now.

 
Fri 2nd Apr 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area The Freezer
28 27 Lubberfiend - with Magdalena de la Torre Sport 28m Very Good
2 shots. Clean to the roof, and eventually put together all of the sequences, but a single move doesn't yet feel "realistic" for a link. I also had a lot of trouble with my fat fingers getting stuck in the "magic pockets". Regardless, the entire top 1/2 is powerful, punchy sustained steep climbing, and nice and clean now

 
26 Easy Fit - with Magdalena de la Torre Sport 25m Very Good
2nd shot. More pumpy and less cruxy than Ha Ha, and certainly more fun. Not too hard at the grade. I even got my hands totally back to front at the crux and had to improvise the entire sequence like that (trust me, it looked as absurd as it sounds) but managed to get up it. The entire finale is also pumpy fun.

 
23 Cryogenics - with Magdalena de la Torre Sport 25m Classic
Clean repeat. Generally quite pleasant, but the sustained technical upper half is where it really shines. Better than I remembered!

 
Sun 28th Mar 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area The Freezer
26 25 Ha-Ha Wall - with Heath Black, Match Sport 27m Very Good
Clean repeat. Would be 24 but for the gnarly crux (made worse by the utterly abysmal bolt position). Glad to repeat this cleanly today without the debacle at the crux I'd had to tick this previously.

 
24 Meat Mallet - with Heath Black, Match Sport 25m Very Good
Clean Repeat. A fairly sustained thin middle section, though not too hard at the grade. The first third of this is rather ugly.

 
24 Rat$ - with Heath Black, Match Sport 20m Very Good
Repeat attempt, not clean today. With no chalk on the crux, I overcommitted to a non-hold... doh. The upper half of this is quite a bit harder than its neighbour, and the rock is great.

 
22 Extension Lead - with Heath Black, Match Sport 20m Good
Clean repeat. The start of this is the only interesting part, after which it is just jug hauling ad nauseam.

 
Sat 27th Mar 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area The Freezer
30 Detache Mode - with Tom Collins Sport 28m Very Good
2 shots. Had to scrub about 1kg of lichen and dirt of this to make it climbable. An easy (gr24ish) start to the ledge, then powerful and steep cranking for the top half. There was only a single move I couldn't do (partially because of my injured shoulder, partially because its HARD), but otherwise I got some okay linkage through the top half on my 2nd shot. I'll be back when my shoulder is better!

 
26 Lactictoc - with Tom Collins Sport 28m Classic
Repeat attempt -not clean today. Didn't know my beta at the crux, but after falling figured it out immediately and went through without too much trouble.

This is just a genuinely great route, that I don't mind chucking repeat laps on.

 
24 Unity (Rat$ Direct) - with Tom Collins Sport 25m Very Good
Clean repeat. Rather easy for the grade, but the upper half of this is great techo climbing up the corner-feature.

 
24 Good Big Dog - with Tom Collins Sport 22m Classic
Clean repeat. I got rather pumped on this as a warmup, especially given that the entire middle section had no chalk on it.

Much better than I remember! After the first 6m, this is classic.

 
Sun 14th Mar 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Duck Wall
26 Duck Walk - with Heath Black Sport 18m Good
3rd shot. Fell off matching the anchor-clipping hold on my second shot! Despite disgustingly wet conditions, I was pretty happy to get this one ticked off without too much hard work. Three distinct and different cruxes, though the rock is far from spectacular. The top headwall is the money here.

 
24 Pluck-a-Duck - with Heath Black Sport 22m, 10 Classic
Clean repeat. My favourite route on this wall. Pretty good rock (for bell) the whole way, and varied climbing from start to finish. That low crux is hard when wet!

 
21 Duck Tits - with Heath Black Sport 16m Very Good
A few interesting moves, and an engagingly steep finale.

 
Sat 13th Mar 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Walls Lookdown
24 Let Freedom Ring
1
2
3 22 14m
4 24 32m
5 20 18m
6
Sport 64m Classic
After finishing on Trail of Tears, it was only 11am, so I bombed down pitches 3-5 on this for a quick rope solo.

I'd forgotten how gnarly P3 is. I had to upclimb and downclimb it several times before committing.

I actually fell of the lip-turn at the start of P4 before I figured out how I wanted to attack it with my dimensions.

P5 is rather easy for the grade, though surprisingly pleasant.

200m of climbing ranging from gr20-gr27 before midday... Not a bad morning out.

 
Sat 13th Mar 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Lunch Ledge
27 Trail Of Tears
1
2
3 27 32m
4 26 36m
5 23 25m
Sport 93m Very Good
Just the top 3 pitches (as far as my 100m rope could reach) on TRS. Probably the chossiest fully-equipped sport multi I've ever been on, but certainly worthy of another visit on lead (mostly cause P3 is so mega!).

P3 is the Money, and is stunning climbing up a steep technical corner, then an outrageous steep face. Only a single move I couldn't do, but conditions were terrible, and it was a friction-move.

P4 is rather masochistic, where every single hard move is a square-cut roof turn (my nemesis!) and could well end in tears on that top roof.

P5 is okay for an exit pitch.

 
Sat 6th Mar 2021 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Walls Lookdown
26 Damascus - with Stephen Varney, Magdalena de la Torre, Lucas C
1
2
3 26 45m lead by Paul Frothy Thomson
4
5
Sport 45m Classic
Repeat. 2 Laps, P3 only. Even coming back to this a few years after the FA, this is still a genuinely great resistance pitch in a crazy position!

 
Sun 29th Nov 2020 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Banksy Wall
24 Sanction of the Victim Extension - with Martin Cankov, Ludek Sykora Sport 35m, 19 Mega Classic
Another clean repeat. Again attempting the headwall downclimb (only got halfway down this time). Good steep training.

 
26 Sanctum Emptor (Linkup) (Linkup - Sanction into Caveat Emptor) - with Tom Collins, Ludek Sykora, Martin Cankov Sport 35m, 19 Classic
Clean repeat. The headwall on this is bloody brilliant steep, powerful climbing in an inspiriting position. Coming into it from Sanction just makes the whole affair scrumptious.

 
Sat 21st Nov 2020 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Banksy Wall
24 Caveat Emptor - with Tom Collins Sport 22m, 11 Good
Clean repeat, this time placing draws. Smashed this out straight-up, but I genuinely do not like this pitch. Seriously, if going for the Caveat Emptor headwall, start up Sanction of the Victim, please!

 
26 Terra Nullius Extension - with Tom Collins Sport 35m, 19 Classic
Clean repeat, this time placing draws! Great to retro-flash this 4 years after I was last on it, especially with no chalk on the headwall! The slabby start is okay, but damn the steep, intimidating arete is intense pleasure.

 
23 Trigger Warning - with Tom Collins Sport 30m, 15 Very Good
Clean repeat. With no chalk on the route, I found this pretty gnarly at the grade. Had to get a bit noisy in a few sections. Once it starts getting touch at 1/2 height, it's great thin waterwashed climbing the whole way.

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 620 ascents.

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