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Routes in Lower Cliff

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Showing all 4 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
23 A Permanent Shiver

Route has not been located. From 2002 print guide "Rap in from carrots down and right from Albatross. Up again past carrots and fixed hangers." This route may also require trad but it was not mentioned in the original write-up.

FA: Wade Stevens, 1996

Sport 20m
24 Shameless

The middle of the orange wall. Locate double Ubolts set back from the edge of the main lookout spot (and near two old rusty dynabolts). Fix rope and rap straight down wall to full hanging belay about 15m above the ground. Route starts with a little traverse left then up gorgeous orange face, through small rooflet and finishes up face just left of corner system on fragile unusual holds.

Sport 37m, 12
23 Pop the Question

An exciting long subtle arete route which hasn't had a lot of love. Still totally climbable despite a bit of lichen here and there. Maybe the new bolts may lure a new generation? Fix a 50m rap rope from two U bolts set well back from edge above small corner. Rap down, (clipping into a few bolts as directionals) to a total hanging belay on single bolt and #2 Friend about 10m above the ground. The route is mixed and wanders a bit so you need at a double set of medium sized cams (0.5 to 3 Camelot) and a bunch of long runners. Rebolted 2020 - no bolt plates required anymore.

FA: L.Trihey, L.Korendyke & J.Smoothy, 1989

Mixed trad 45m, 8
23 Naughty Little Monkey

Absolutely worth the hassle of a rap in climb out route. Brilliant orange rock for most of the way and visible from above from right side of Ferris Cave. Added bonus - belay is from a small ledge - not a pain hanging belay like other routes here. Shares the same rap anchor as Pop the Question (two U-bolts above short corner) but rap straight down to small ledge (about halfway down the wall). Bizarrely bolted with a totally random mix of carrots and rings - so bring at least 8 bolt plates.

FA: M.Bennis, 2000

Sport 30m

Showing all 4 routes.

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