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Routes in Ancient Mariner Buttress

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Showing all 12 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
18 X Kitty Gobsmacker

Start 10m L of 'Cowboy Clip' up little face to top. Scary and dodgy but with nice babylonian start.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1995

Trad 12m
22 Cowboy Clip LH Start
Sport 10m
21 Cowboy Clip

Fun easy roof jugging to short headwall. Warning: There have been at least 3 incidents of quickdraws being worn through or severed from repetitive falling on the 1st bolt of this climb - take care if this is near your limit!

FA: M.Portman, 1992

Sport 10m
25 Silent Rage

Punchy little roof problem down low. Don't blow the 4th clip - people have hit the tree. The moves direct past the last bolt do still go, so it probably makes the most sense to treat the round-the-world miles out to the left as being part of the 23 and not part of this route.

FA: A.Bull, A.Dunbar & S.Wythe, 1992

Sport 15m
23 Silent Rage (Crunch's Variant)

Start as for Mr Curly then left on FHs into top of Silent Rage. To keep it at the grade you probably want to do the round-the-world way out left of the last bolt.

Sport 12m
17 Mr. Curly

Short juggy corner.

FA: Neil Crabb, 1992

Sport 10m, 3
21 Diana Ross

Subtle black arete that seeps after rain.

FA: V.Kondos, 1994

Sport 15m
19 Albatross

Squeezed in wall starting as for 'Ancient Mariner',then leftwards past carrots to anchor in the middle of the wall.

FA: F.Lumsden & M.Whitehouse, 1989

Sport 16m
19 Ancient Mariner

The left side of the main arete on the mini wall.

FA: B.Junge & M.Portman, 1994

Sport 12m, 5
17 Creature Without a Brain

Climbs just right of the main arête. Cops morning sun.

FA: M.Portman., 1994

Sport 15m
14 Squashed Parrot

Ring bolts to lower off on the undercut grey slab.

FA: M.Pekin & L.McManus, 1989

Sport 18m
18 Neil's Thing

No longer missing a bolt down low - in fact it's all new bolts.

FA: Neil Crabb, 1992

Sport 12m, 5

Showing all 12 routes.

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