Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head Tower of Asgard | |||||||
21 | ★★ Where the Roodads Sing | 60m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Super fun crack. Hard thrutchy start gets you warmed for the rest. Great gear the whole way.
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Wed 24th Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 ~19 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Glorious hand crack, and an excellent start to the day. Almost as many threads as cams, and I managed to do only one fist jamb the whole way.
Managed to get away with 1 x #3 and 1 x #4, but I’d imagine more sane people might want a double of #3 |
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19 Hard | ★★★ Telstar | 80m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Not sure it quite lived up to the hype, but it’s definitely a unique position, and makes for some great exposure.
Honestly, the crack after the roof felt like the hardest moves I’d pulled all day! |
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22 | ★★★ Aladinsane | 32m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun finger locking with some nice techy footwork.
I’m a pretty aggressive downgrader, but I didn’t feel like this was soft. Maybe I missed something 🤷🏻♂️ felt pretty good anyway |
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Thu 11th Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 ~21 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sick One!!!!
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Tue 2nd Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Blast Off | 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
bring trad
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 ~23 |
★★★ Blast Off
- with
Matt Clark
1
2
| 80m | |||||
Pumped beyond repair off the ledge! Was so dang hot I could hold onto the slab
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 |
★★★ Blast Off
- with
Ryan Macpherson
| 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wild times in the heat! Will be back in winter for sure!
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Thu 28th Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 Hard |
★★★ Blast Off
1
2
| 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Incredible splitter crack, and no giveaway either. Would make a nice easy single-pitch stopping at the ledge, but the p2 finger crack is the money.
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Aladinsane - with Henry Orton | 32m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really fun finger crack! A few intricate sequences that took me a bit to figure out but got there in the end. Must come back to redpoint.
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20 | ★★★ Caladan - with Henry Orton | 32m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super awesome crack! I could have done the bottom part so much easier by turning right and using the face holds. Instead I forgot about them and thrutched up the corner until the end.
Top is sustained but very fun crack climbing. Deservedly popular route! |
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18 | ★★ Reincarnation - with Henry Orton | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
A few good moves, but a lot of ordinary face moves otherwise. Traverse is a bit much for limited gain.
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Mon 11th Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Joe Blake - with Ian ORourke | 60m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Excellent crack with a kick in the tail. Mostly 1 & 2 cams down low and a couple of small cams for the top
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17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice - with Ian ORourke | 45m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Good hand crack to start and interesting moves on to arete. Rope got stuck on abseil down front face so make sure your knot is over the edge before descending
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Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 |
★★★ Jezebel P1
1
| 100m | |||||
the first pitch as a warmup
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Wed 7th Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Blast Off P1
- with
Lia Sullivan
| 80m | |||||
Couldn’t convince Lia to get up this so P1 only
|
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22 | ★★★ Aladinsane - with Lia Sullivan | 32m | |||||
all the holds have gone… where have the jugs gone…
|
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Sat 3rd Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 |
★★★ Joe Blake P1
- with
rickau
1
19
| 60m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sick-as line of (mostly) hands! Great pro throughout. Gets pretty tight in parts, so good for those with smaller mitts.
Slabby balancy finger section at the top was spooky for me. Definitely my anti style. There was probably better pro than a uncammed black totem and a shallow #4 nut Only climbed P1. Heard P2 was rubbish. |
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22 | ★★★ Sharp Shooter - with rickau | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Not one, but two hand jam roofs?! Sweet as!
Super cool crack line, but probably a touch soft for 22. I really shouldn't be onsighting at that grade. Other thoughts... hated the chimney below the second roof jam. Middle of the route is incredibly sandy and chossy for a 3 star climb, but fortunately the rest of the climbing makes up for it. |
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17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice - with rickau | 45m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Warm up repeat. Actually climbed the route correctly this time (see prev ascent shenanigans). Discovered it was full of carrot bolts. Did not bring bolt plates. Used nuts instead.
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Sun 28th Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice | 45m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
The opening section was cool, but the long ramble to the top really didn't add anything.
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19 | ★★ El Dorado | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Engaging and interesting, if a bit dirty. Did it as two pitches, which may not be ideal, and the top pitch with only one #4 is indeed exciting
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Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A quite varied climb! The overhang start and the off width/chimney section are pretty engaging even on top rope.
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Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | Crack glove ★★★ Caladan - with Christian Asencios Palmer, Izak | 32m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Onsight but saw gear beta in the guidebook…
I reckon this is the best rock climb I’ve ever been on |
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Fri 22nd Dec 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Telstar - with Tom Bates | 80m | |||||
Exposure for the second out of the cave and onto the chimney was absolutely terrifying. Got a little too far up the chimney and it felt like Mr Chicken for a brief second. 3rd pitch requires some solid crack climbing skills
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Wed 13th Dec 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 |
★★★ Telstar
- with
Nick Gresham
1
18
30m
Rock quality was quite poor and not a lot of protection for the most part
4
3
15m
| 80m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very unique!
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20 Easy | ★★★ Caladan - with Nick Gresham | 32m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Absolute classic splitter!! Well worth the hike and possibly one of the best in the Mountains
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19 |
★★★ Telstar
- with
Felix
1
18
30
2
17
15
3
19
20
4
3
15
| 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Brilliant climbing all the way up. Highlight was definitely the second and third pitches. Second pitch super exposed and required a bit of convincing to step out. Third pitch was a solid push through tight hand crack. Linked last 2 - 4 (or 2 - 3 in log book) pitches up to boulder anchor. Used 70m rope.
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19 |
★★★ Telstar
- with
andrew
1
18
30m
lead by
andrew
2
17
15m
lead by
andrew
The money! Bouldery to get first established but super secure once inside. So good I even got stuck for a bit
3
19
20m
lead by
andrew
Epic climbing! Attempted proper crack technique by jamming and pumped out.
4
3
15m
lead by
andrew
| 80m | |||||
A gorgeous mrga classic. The epicness of thr chimeny can be seen from below and is even better up close. Learned that even the jammiest of cracks can be lay backed with enough willpower.
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Tue 12th Dec 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 |
★★★ Telstar
- with
Lee Prescott
1
18
30m
2
17
15m
3
19
20m
4
3
15m
| 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
So fucking sick! The roof from the bottom is massive and gets bigger as you climb up!! Couldn't believe how cool it was following a line with no chalk, not common in the bluies!!!! Back in time for changers Chrissy dinner! A mega feast for a mega day!!
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Sat 21st Oct 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Victoria Falls Left Side Upper | |||||||
21 ~22 | ★★ Spasmo's on Acid | 24m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great climb but tough for 21
|
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Odin's Love Glove - with Luke Hef | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Worked moves, now to find placing gear beta
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Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams - with Henry Orton | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
It goes! It's a very good climb. Did it with 1 less #1 than last time.
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Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Joe Blake - with What.I.get.up.to | 60m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Good to come back to send it, glad I had loads of gear. My hardest trad send yewwww
|
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Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Victoria Falls Left Side Upper | |||||||
23 | ★★ Spasmo's on Acid Direct - with zachary vertrees | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Middle a bit thin for me, and misremembered Zac’s sequence… but soldiered on to the top in the end … probably could have done them in approach shoes like Zac did, back in the day… maybe again someday…
|
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21 | ★★ Optimum Beer Level - with zachary vertrees | 30m | Average | ||||
Chewed a bit much gas having to create solutions at the start so didn’t quite have enough in the tank at the end … not the best warmup…
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Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Blast Off - with Peter Melouney | 80m | |||||
Had a sit just after the offwith section, everything else went with mental effort...
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22 | ★★★ Aladinsane - with Peter Melouney | 32m | |||||
Back on it since my first try about 3 years ago.
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Sat 26th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan - with Peter | 32m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fantastic climbing and amazing jams. Probably the best crack I've done in the mountains.
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Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
25 ~28 |
★★★ Snakes & Ladders
1
2
3
| 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I spent 4 days on this route over the last 4 years -including my first attempt "group up" with Emil in the snow (back when no one really knew anything about this route, except that it looked rad).
P1 and P3 are inconsequential, but P2 is absolutely stunning. Its basically a mega mega left-leaning seam-crack at 24/25, guarded by a V8+ crack boulder that I could "sort of" do the moves on, but never really had any chance to link. Over my visits, I replaced the anchors on this, so there's really no reason for you not (prospective ascent reader) to get on it. |
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25 | ★★★ Snakes & Ladders - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Harry Kadi, Will Monks | 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
One of the very best cracks in the mountains but I did not find it to be jugs. Seven days of effort, one some years ago and then recently three on TRS and three with partners. Thanks Paul for the send belay and Harry and Will for coming down on the other days to support. For the third pitch I did a long traverse right to meet up with Telstar placing no gear. It's a bit of a choose your own adventure up there but at least this way was easy...ish. Someone go do it and tell me what grade it is.
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Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 ~23 | ★★★ Blast Off — 2 attempts - with Knox Low | 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Four sessions overall. Probably my hardest trad send to date.
Pitch one is a classic in its own right. Beautiful off finger locks, some techy feet dancing. Overall a gentle warm up for the battle that's about to come up. Leads to one of most beautiful belays. Pitch two has it all one can ask for; boulder start for a rude howdy, an offwidth that first unnerves and then provides solace before the upcoming turmoil; place some good gear find the locks whose keys are hidden in good footwork and: crank, keep cranking, one last crank and you have made it. Not! One might classify the upcoming section as somewhat easier but let me assure you the pump in your forearms can make you muck up like Jamie Oliver trying to cook Asian cuisine. So hold it together! Your reward will be an iron stone stairway to the heavens. The ramble to top is just for you to contemplate the beauty of what you have just climbed and tame back the beast you had to channel from within. When you look back towards the valley from the rap chains, don't forget to thank the Creator. Gear beta: Double rack with a #5 cam and additional 0.5, 0.75. PS Post climb if you think Ikara can't get any better than this experientia, wait until you get on Jezebel P2. |
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Wed 16th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan - with Seth | 32m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
World class at the grade
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19 |
★★★ Telstar
- with
Seth
1
18
30
lead by
Seth
2
17
15
3
19
20
4
3
15
| 80m | |||||
Insane, I can imagine people freaking out on this one! Linked the 2-3-4 together.
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18 | ★★ Reincarnation - with Seth | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really nice, end traverse unnecessary, should have anchors straight up at the break I reckon
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22 ~21 | ★★★ Aladinsane - with Seth | 32m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Repeat, just too good not to be repeated
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Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams - with Nat | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice - with Nat | 45m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Managed to forget about the traverse to fixed gear and decided to head into the corner and accidentally discover a new line.
Sling the large tree. Run out the chimney. Find a #3 placement at just the right time. Run out the off-width. Find a purple placement in a horizontal break. Scramble up some dirt and sandy rock way too run out above the past gear. Sling a shrub and pretend it'll hold a fall and scramble to the belay tree. Not my best big brain hour. |
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Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 |
★★★ Joe Blake P1
- with
Aurora Pandora
1
19
| 60m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Crag classic for sure! Amazing line with fantastic climbing and jamming that goes from hands to fingers. P2 didn't look too appealing.
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19 |
★★ El Dorado
- with
Aurora Pandora
| 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great finger crack on P1 and solid lead by Aurora! P2 has a few fun roof moves. Used 2 #4.
|
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19 | ★★★ Joe Blake - with Peter Melouney | 60m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Absolutely epic. Very secure hand jams and then thins out, need to come back and lead this. Didn't do p2 as didn't look great unless you have loads of small gear.
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17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice - with Peter Melouney | 45m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good hand jams to an actually fun and easy traverse and then quite exposed. Missed a couple of Carrots and ran it out but the top is easy enough.
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19 |
★★ El Dorado
- with
Peter Melouney
1
19
2
17
| 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The finger crack at the start is pretty thin and hard to get good finger locks although excellent gear. Got pretty pumped towards the top but fought the fight and miraculously sent it. At first i thought the chimney was quite intimidating but actually climbed pretty easy.
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Mon 10th Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice | 45m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Why is Odin not that popular?? Cracks here are all time!
Forgot boltplates so used nuts on all the carrots. |
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19 | ★★★ Joe Blake | 60m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Beautiful crack ranging from perfect hands, to tight hands, to fingers. Consistently 1s for a fair portion. Felt hard for 19.
Top pitch has a fairly hard undercut start to get established in the corner then east ground with barely any gear until the top out. Probably not 18 and probably only 15m. Next time I would rap from P1. |
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Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 |
★★★ Jezebel
- with
ange
1
2
3
| 100m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Loved the first pitch and the second really challenged me. So fun
|
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22 | ★★★ Jezebel | 100m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Continuous and sustained resting interdipersed with some good moves. A rite of passage for your trad momma badge.
Pretty honest for the grade
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Sun 4th Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Bit of Indian Creek about this pitch
Thanks to Kelly for showing me this beautiful crag!
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Sun 28th May 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Telstar - with Lars | 80m | |||||
Lead 1and 2 pitch as one.
Such an great day out.
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22 ~23 | Crack glove ★★★ Blast Off - with simo | 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Went on first go, unexpectedly. Much easier on the reptilian brain with the number 5 at hand. The hardest moves are off the deck
|
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Wed 24th May 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 ~21 | ★★★ Aladinsane - with Taib | 32m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Lost at Rock-Paper-Scissors for the onsight but the conveniently located tree combined with a sore neck preserved me from getting any info on my mate's ascent! Great climb, great moves, great rock, loved it!
|
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Sat 20th May 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Aladinsane — 3 attempts | 32m | |||||
Trigger alert! It's better than Blast off.
|
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Wed 17th May 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Misread the last move, but really enjoyed the climb
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22 | ★★★ Aladinsane | 32m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Gear was pre-placed up to the crux, so feels like a redpoint, but Im a purist. Not sure I agree with the ‘easy for the grade’ reputation, maybe compared to blast off? Still feels like proper 22 to me, or at least a very sustained 21
|
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Fri 12th May 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
23 Hard | Confidence Trick - with Mieka | 35m, 10 | |||||
Really enjoy this style of climbing, had to go for it at the start!
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20 | ★★★ Caladan - with Mieka | 32m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great!
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22 ~23 | ★★★ Blast Off - with Mieka | 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fell out of the offwidth, and had a few more falls/ rests on the hard bits after that. Probably a combination of being late in the day, a scary exposed position, and just the fact that it's pretty damn hard!
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Wed 10th May 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 ~23 | ★★★ Blast Off | 80m | |||||
Stiff. Spat out at the offwidth. Felt like a real battle for the first 15 mt of pitch too. Got spanked and loved it 😊 extremely high quality route
|
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Mon 8th May 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Blast Off
1
18
| 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Finished pitch 1 and turned back to see the hailstorm hitting the valley (and my belayer). Bailed off and tried Aladinsane. If the second pitch is the money, I now understand the hype about it, cause that first pitch is already quite a classic by itself!
|
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Sun 7th May 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan - with Luke C | 32m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Soooo good and soooo close. I felt on the last move because my arms gave up.
The climbing here is superb but make sure you don't go with temperature feels like -3 and a hail storm is going to drop on you to have a better experience Luke C the legend did a fabulous job and onsighted it. Despite the cold it was a fantastic day. |
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Fri 5th May 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 |
★★ El Dorado
- with
Sean Peters, Oliver
1
19
2
17
| 35m | |||||
Linked as 1 pitch. Lots of .3s needed for the "finger" crack (which is the crux - it's not actually big enough for finger jams). I also used the corner and stepped on some vegetation since I couldn't find anything on the face to step on.
|
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20 | ★★★ True dreams - with Sean Peters, Oliver | 40m | |||||
the undercut after the chimney felt nails through some combination of rope drag, lack of fitness and bad beta. try better rope management and more of the big right pocket next time?
|
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Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan - with Laurie Bristow | 32m | |||||
Repeat.
|
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22 | ★★★ Aladinsane - with Laurie Bristow | 32m | |||||
Team climb? Lead the finger crack up till the face climbing section and came down to let Laurie lead the rest of the climb from there. Slippery crimp + pull move to get through the face section 🫣. Lack mental capacity for these things.
|
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Sat 22nd Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan - with Nat | 32m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wow. Wow. Wow! Gnarly fists into slightly wider, into a beautiful hands. Super pumped by the end but stellar climbing. How good!
|
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18 |
★★★ Blast Off P1
- with
Nat
1
lead by
Laurie Bristow
| 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First pitch only, lovely little route for some gear placement practice! Second pitch looked gnarly so we ran away. Plus it was a little sleepy todayy!
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22 | ★★★ Aladinsane - with Nat | 32m | |||||
Took before and after crux. Crux is harddd. First time on a proper finger jam line! Wicked climbing.
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Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 Hard | ★★★ Blast Off - with Abi Prakash | 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Had another go at Blast off today. Didn't get it clean but excellent moves. The off width pod I thought might be harder since the block at the bottom fell out but it hasn't really changed the grade as you can get a knee bar rest. Have to come back when I'm fitter to put all the pieces together
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Wed 12th Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Wade's World | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Sleepwalking - with Astrid | 33m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Brilliant climbing in a spectacular location. The orange upper section of the wall is superb. Rather pumpy also.
Rescuing some gear that was left behind after the incident with the tree. |
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Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 | ★★ El Dorado | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
climbed as 1 pitch
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Sat 18th Mar 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 | ★★ El Dorado - with Brendan Coulter | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quite a nice finger crack with face footers into hands and wild chimney, deece will be back, did in one pitch
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19 | ★★ El Dorado - with Dylan Glavas | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Got entirely lost on the walk-in, leaving us with time for only one route. There some sick climbs here, but could really do with some more traffic to pound in that trail.
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Sun 15th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Telstar | 80m | ★ Good | ||||
A bit spicy
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Mon 2nd Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Telstar - with Lucas Low | 80m | |||||
Possibly didn't fully appreciate what we were getting ourselves into, the choss pile on the first pitch almost scared us off, the roof that didn't look so bad from the ground was commiting and runout without any big cams, the third pitch felt hard after a long stint in the hanging belay and mental fatigue of being scared out of my mind. Incredible route, not for the faint of heart but certainly worthwhile
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Fri 30th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Best single pitch crack I’ve done so far.
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Thu 29th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Best crack I’ve climbed, lovely jams leading to a cool sequence up top. Wow.
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19 | ★★★ Telstar | 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
1 and 3 are interesting climbing but 2 is as good as the ads. Somehow exposed and claustrophobic at the same time. Awesome. (Also justified my ownership of a #6)
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Wed 28th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Joe Blake - with Ash 'Newton' Brennan | 60m | |||||
Ash took P1 and nailed it! Bazangin climb that packs quite the punch. Odin really feels like a mini Ikara, which I guess it actually is, with Ikara just down the valley and the Odin walls being a little smaller. Style vvv similar as well, but also, obvi. How's that for a controversial opinion?
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20 | ★★★ True dreams - with Ash 'Don't be a dumbass' Brennan | 40m | |||||
after some faff, I down climbed the cruxy start, unclipping all gear, but leaving one piece in that i later re-clipped. but my time climbing with ash has taught me to have a bit more fun and not be such a narc, ergo flash. no hands rests (actually primo sit down rests) are da bomb.
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Tue 20th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 |
★★★ Telstar
- with
SwagAustralia, Claire Evans, Liam, Nico
1
18
30
2
17
15
3
19
20
4
3
15
| 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Another epic roof crack ticked off, the most epic one of them all. We left camp only 45 minutes late again even after a flat battery and set the GPS to Ikara Head. It took us to the approach from the wrong side of the valley and set us back another half hour. We finally arrived at the crag at midday and Claire sunscreened up and fired up the first pitch, while I sheltered in a cave to protect the onsight. Frequent cries of "ROCK!" came down from above followed by strikes on the ground around us and on Manu's leg. I got sleepy and had to fire myself up again to lead the first pitch. After Liam seconded, I lead it carefully and on a good amount of bomber gear, before meeting Claire at the belay ledge. The tricky exposed stem-corner-under-roof-around-arete-to-stem-corner moves were particularly fun. The amount of suspect rock made it feel like mantling onto a sandcastle. Claire was sitting on a pile of choss like a dragon on top of her coins, and pointed to the (astonishingly) even more chossy part of the ledge. "I accidentally came from that way and had to crawl across the choss pile". I built the anchor as Claire ventured out across the roof after trying various backpack attachments. Manu seconded the first pitch slowed only by the multiple stuck nuts, which he verified were all "bomber". After some water and a nut bar, I threw aside all foreign thoughts and dared out across the void, placing lots of good small placements in rock that hummed with vibrations. I clipped the #8 dragon that Liam and Claire had left for me and awkwardly climbed out and onto the tiny ledge. Manu struggled mightily to do the start with the backpack hanging off him, eventually coming off and having to stoicly prussic back up into the roof. All of this had been eating daylight and my teeth were chattering with cold. I finally began the third pitch with all psyche gone and almost immediately had a tiny fall on one of the very much needed green cams. I sieged my way up with rests and falls as the daylight faded and stuck in a very overcammed totem, didn't extend it, and semi-blindly bouldered through the very steep jugs before arriving on a small vegetated ledge and seeing Claire standing across and up on the top. "Where are you going? I went this way and it was way easier". I had created so much rope drag that I had to build a belay and bring Manu up, his ascent lit only by the tiny LED on the top of the walkie talkie. He spent about 10 minutes getting my red totem back out from under the roof. I belayed Manu's scramble across to the top, and Claire belayed me up off a "bomber" small tree. We arrived back to the car at almost 11pm and headed straight for the Mt Vic servo, the staff watching us like we were aliens as we rolled in blaring 70s Brazilian jazz-funk, covered in zinc cream, rushed to the aid of the delivery people struggling to get a trolley full of drinks up the front step and gorged ourselves with sausage rolls and crispy M&Ms. We dodged the kangaroos home for a well deserved dinner around the fire.
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Sat 17th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
17 | Power Vacuum - with Oliver McDonald | 120m | Average | ||||
It seems this route has only been climbed once a decade since it was put up... First pitch was nice! Second pitch got interesting. Steep move to the right of the ledge covered in bushes and some mix of dead and alive trees. Bush bash through them then up to a layback before super easy slab section with minimal pro. Ollie slinged a dead tree for safety... Fun adventuring and wicked views from both belay ledges. Third pitch is basically a walk out. There's a nice stone you can wrap for an anchor at the top. Minimal trees for anchors.
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Mon 12th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 |
★★★ Telstar
- with
Alex Holroyd, SwagAustralia
1
18
30m
2
17
15m
3
19
20m
4
3
15m
| 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Telstar where to begin... well if you read the previous entry from Alex you'll get his recollection of the day so here is mine! It all started one night as we were flicking through the book and saw a photo of the climb, it looked outrageous and we were obsessed. Weeks earlier when arriving in the bluies I said I wasn't leading any trad with the exception of eternity. After leading this I was hooked on crack once again and this goal of telstar didn't feel impossible. You'll note from alex we started the day with a dead car battery and going to the wrong car park but eventually we made our way there. Gorgeous hike in with the muddy track providing a soft landing when I slipped and fell. Arriving at the base of the climb and looking up at this imposing roof crack, we had made it. Weeks of talk had finally turned into something, unlike bunny but who wants to clip bolts when you can go on wild trad adventures? I lead the first pitch, some committing moves and questionable rock but overall very engaging and fun. I got to the ledge below the first belay spot and could see the end of pitch 1, only a couple more moves and i was at the start of the bombay chimney. I opted to keep more right as it seemed the better option but quickly realised how wrong I was. I ended up too far right but couldn't down climb so I had to commit. I start climbing up and realise I'd be topping out on complete choss I was terrified. The foot holds disappeared and the 'hand holds' were large blocks that would fall off if I grabbed onto them. I committed to the scariest mantel onto choss yelling ROCK far too frequently. I got up and somehow was safe but then had to crawl to the left along the loose rock to where the belay was, somehow I had made it safely. Liam seconded this climb and then smashed out the next pitch. We went as two parties and Alex lead the first pitch so he go to join me at the belay spot, both trying to not knock off any more rocks as we navigated the choss pile. He watch me terrified to start the chimney and had the camera out to record it. Getting in was the hardest part but once I did I absolutely loved it. Finally the last pitch, what I'd been waiting for. A beautiful finger crack which was completely new terrain for me. I set off jamming and placed the 0.75 before taking my first whip on gear! I fell ending back at the hanging belay so ended up redoing it from the start and managed to send it! The best crack climb I've done so far, sustained and technical with beautiful moves. Getting to the top as the sun was shining and appreciating this amazing experience in the most beautiful place.
Liam and I enjoyed the view while waiting for Alex and Manu. We were starving and dehydrated but figured the others wouldn't be long... oh so wrong. Turns out while we were soaking in the sun they were having an epic! Manu fell off the chimney and it turned into a mission to get back on. 5:30 quickly turned into 8:30 and still no sign of them. We switched the radio on and alex responds just starting the last pitch, oh no this was going to be a long one. I respond 'onsight or whip' before waiting patiently. I wait where I though alex would top out yet he appeared on top of a pillar way too low. He responded 'I can't go any further the rope drag is too bad' as he tells me of the stuck cam and V1 boulder problem it took to get there. Much different to the chill scrambling I opted for but he had arrived just in time before light disappeared. Manu smashed out the last pitch in the dark and managed to free Alex's totem, it was almost gone forever. I then made a quick belay at where I'd topped out so Alex and manu could scramble over safely while being safe. Tired, hungry and dehydrated we powered on back to the car and DEMOLISHED the up&go's I had left in the car. Arriving back at camp around 11pm and demolishing pasta at midnight as we laughed at the day we had. THE BEST DAY EVER! The most amazing climb I've done and amazing friends share this experience again, 10/10 will do this again. |
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Tue 6th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Not alot of dreams came true finding the wall but they sure did on this climb! Good to link with rickety rick again and patrol the highlands of odin head hunting wild cracks
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Mon 5th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Great climb, lots of cool moves. No, the top of the chimney isn’t the end of the climb.
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17 ~18 | Hunger Games | 40m | Average | ||||
It’s a climb
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Thu 1st Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Aladinsane - with Ash | 32m | |||||
Kept nervously awaiting the crux on each sequence... it never came 🥲
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16 | ★ The Titan - with Ash | 30m | |||||
Rebolt... and downclimb. Way better than it looks, bomber gear and rock the whole way and not dirty at all.
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Tue 29th Nov 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice | 45m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice climb. Spicy start and traverse halfway up. Nothing else to note
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22 | ★★★ Sharp Shooter | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great crack line with some exposure, hand jamming, chimney all in one! Sent clean as a seconder
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Tue 1st Nov 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun and varied, glad i didn't have to lead the tight chimney
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