Routes as sport in Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau

The first route as you arrive.. If you like steep and thuggy then this is your number. Be careful on the first couple of bolts as the ground isn't far away.

Easily the easiest route here. The warm up... if you're a pumper. Jug along with glee.

Doesnt get as much attention as 'Headshot' but just as good. Perhaps a little more thuggy?

A tricky sequence at the start leads to a good rest then mostly good grips for great sustained fun.

Took 5 days to bolt with much head scratching, almost didn't happen. Thought it would be 21. Maybe it is?

The warm up if you aren't a pumper. The most popular route here. Good climbing!

Hard and sustained edges from half height, is considered solid for the grade now with the direct finish.

Like a Cornetto... no boring parts! A great climb if you like mountains pockets and the hardest of the 4s at this crag. At least 2 grades harder than Funky!

Same start as the last two climbs but keeps drifting right to anchors on the arête. Sent as horizontal hail arrived.

Stick clip ring on the lip and pass rope through the hooks in the roof. A hold broke several years ago, this climb should probably be removed..

The climbing and the rock is awesome, a grade harder after every move! . Hard for 28 but who wants a soft tick?

Bold sports climbing at its finest, if that's your thing. Batman start, suck your gonads up and steel thy self for a memorable journey, including some very long runouts in the top half.

Start off the large cairn and head straight up the left side of the arete and wall above to some long moves. Has a couple of runouts but on quite easy moves. From the 2nd bolt to the top crux bolt is good 24-25 mileage climbing, if using the easier sequences through half-height.

Start as per Pollux and head up the line of bolts into the techy dihedral above. From the 2nd bolt to the dihedral is great at about 24-25 if you're looking for some mileage when Tiger Snatch is occupied.

Start from the cairn and head up and across the right face to rejoin the arete at half height. Boulder up leaning arete to finish above the small roof.

Wowsers! All time mega classic. Start as per Aristocat, boulder its main crux and then head into a mind boggling amount of sustained climbing, culminating with a potentially heart breaking finish. Absolute stonker! Stu Monique Jorge flash

Starts 5m right of Tiger Cat and is feisty straight off the deck with some brilliant and brutal bouldering. Suck in some oxygen at halfway then head up to join Love Cats at its crux, following this to where LC and TS trend back left. Instead peel off rightward under roof to motor up the headwall. Hoik your rig left and right while trying not to feel like a flag in a stiff wind. Sitting Bull joins into the same headwall finish. Stu

Start 8m right of Beta Vinyl, 3m L of Tiger Snatch. Heads straight up, passing through the left end of the low horizontal break of Velvet project / Tiger Snatch. Then heads straight up to Sitting Bull's final break. Finish as for Sue's Last Ride.

Start 3m right of Kitten Mittens behind the large rock at cliff base. Head up and left to join the last few bolts of Tiger Cat.

This variant finish to Velvet Love has turned out to be the most popular route on the wall. Climb for 15m to obvious rest at small break. Head right to a funky crux, then back left to join Tiger Cat at the lip, just under the chain. Originally graded 29, general consensus is that it is a little harder. Enjoy yourself! Jake

Originally bolted by Rowan Druce and generously offered to the masses, Tom O'Halloran, seeing a classic on offer, was quick to pounce. Start as per Brummel Hook (also possible to start up 1st 2 bolts of Tiger Snatch), then head straight up the immaculate orange stone to finish on the high black head wall. Slightly easier than Tiger Cat (opinions are divided on this...) and originally given 32, but has now seen an upgrade. Andrea , Ryan

Start 2m right of Tiger Snatch before the ledge drops away. Sustained face climbing leads to difficult roof moves on typically wet holds. Breach this and head rightward into the water runnel. 60m rope is only barely enough to lower off last bolt.

One of the best lines at the crag!! Climb Brummel Hook for 18m to just above the roof. Where Brummel Hook drifts R, instead head straight up the orange flake and keep on going and going. Squeeze hard, keep tension and don't let go. Luke Hansen

Start as per Brummel Hook and head 5m right at the second bolt. Sustained and technical face climbing leads to a vague 'letter box' rest, and a series of boulder problems above to an anchor underneath the big roof.

"Dangle pigs". Australia's 2nd 35. Formerly a Lee Cossey project, generously gifted to Alex to keep him occupied. Starts just shy of the wall splitting arete 15m right of Ristretto. Tends rightward to breach the main roof close to its right hand end, and up wall above.

Rowan Druce closed project. Straight up the obvious arete at the right end of the main wall.

Start as for Lord Elphinstone but then head diagonally across the wall to the right. 70m rope is NOT enough to lower off the anchor, but should be ok from last bolt.

Start as for Lord Elphinstone and The Elephant Man then heads right to vague prow and all the way up up up to the top roof. The boulder in the roof is a tricky one, finishing with an all points off dyno a loooong way above the ground. Finishes out on the highest, furthest out part of the cliff. All time!

Stopping at the hands free rest under the roof is an insanely good 33.

The journey to the centre of the earth could not be this epic. Start as per Green Grass diverging to the left at the seventh bolt when Green Grass heads back to the right. Up Up Up, staying generally just to the left of Green Grass to finish under the high roof.

Started at grade 28, quickly went to 29 and may see another advance yet. Either climb with second bolt clipped, or use locking biners on the first (a backclip would see two people go to the valley floor!). Climb up and gently rightward to roof. Head around the lip and hit the accelerator. Traverse left above the lip, up several metres and then break right and up until your forearms resemble base ball bats and you feel like if you fall you will land in the valley way below. Use a minimum 70m rope or you may well land in the valley.

Starts 15m R of Green Grass and takes the line of maximum steepness to join Green Grass on the upper headwall, hopefully finishing up High Hopes into Nilp (!!). It's like a mirror image of Tiger Cat, but heaps bigger, badder, steeper, harder ... and mossier.

A long batman start leads to primo thrutching up the blunt prow.

Line of bolts right of Kung Fu Muscle and left of The Last Ninja. A unique route for the mountains, bouldery and sustained hard pockets. A visionary bolting effort by Scotty B and inspired siege by Logan.

Deservedly popular route. Start right of Shogun , head up and left to the base of the right leaning arch. Punch your way up this and through the ever steepening wall to find some respite on the lesser overhanging headwall.

Shared start with The Last Ninja. Head up to desperate boulder problem and right through intimidating roof flake.

Amazing line with a tough little beta crux.

Mega pumper that connects the start of Fists Of Fury (to the fifth or sixth bolt) into Chao Wa Punch Kick. Take all your draws and you may need to borrow some to make up the 18 that are required.

Bouldery start to gain the saw tooth feature at 10m, and then straight up the never ending wall.

Start at the base of the wall to the right of Heisenburg Corner. Traverse to arete, head up and come back onto the face to reach the roof. Around this and continue up the face for a rather long way. Probably the line of this sector.

There are three routes that share a common start marked by a small 'dry stone' platform with an undercling horn above it. Boulder up the side pull feature to attain a good break. Traverse left and up through some difficult moves, then continue up for more of the same.

Full of funky sequences and memorable holds. Start as per Treadstone but continue up for one bolt more before moving left, over vague lip and into the shallow groove. Some awesome sections above may have you think you are all done. Wrong! Opinion is mixed as to whether it is 27 or 28.

It is not uncommon to hear whimpering from high up on this super classic. Start as per Treadstone but head straight up the seam and onto the arete above. Continue up the face onto the white streaked, water washed stone, where the bolts cease and the fun factor goes redline.

Open project. Starts 5m right of Treadstone in the 'bowl'. Gently left and up to join Fallopian Jezabels.

Start on the right side of the bowl and climb up and into the corner above. A trady feeling pitch.

Start 2m right of Dumbo Love project. An absolute cracker!

Julian Saunders closed project. A hellishly long jump to join Treadstone.

Buckle up for adventure. First 2 bolts of Green Grass then left and up to intersect The Milkbar on left side of big roof. Climb to left of big flake and crux then over to finish as for Lord Elphinstone.

A variant finish to Tiger Snatch. Instead of heading left under the final roof, head right to finish up Beta Vinyl.

Julian Saunders closed project. From the chains of Ristretto launch through the roof into what has to rate as one of the best dynos ever in the entire world. If you hold the swing, head right along the lip, up the wall, through the bulge, and into the high corner system. A 70m rope is a minimum if you are lowering from the chain.

Lee Cossey generously gave this route to a visiting Frenchman who had become rather enamoured with it. Departs Green Grass after its crux and heads straight up and through a series of roofs and beyond. Finish at the chains for Zigzagonal. Lee Tom

Starts a few meters right of Beta Vinyl and goes up somewhere! This is the one with several fixed biners in the first 15m.

Climb the first six bolts of Ristretto to the letterbox slot just above a small rooflet. Moves to the left and then straight up the wall between Ristretto and Brummel Hook. Make like a bird through the roof and continue on to finish as per Brummel Hook.

Roof double dyno extension of Ristretto. Do Ristretto, dyno through the roof then keep on truckin' up the face into the big block and break. Continue up to join into the last few metres of Brummel Hook. Full value.

Matt 'Slow Banga' Norgrove closed project. Light your match and charge on up the middle of the wall and out the lip before you run out of paper to burn

Batman or make yourself a Bachar ladder to reach the start. Then up a couple of the ladder rungs to get into the proper rock. Blast straight up and up and up to get yourself under the high bulge. Some tricky moves manoeuvring around the bulge then out left through the roof to turn the lip and climb the last few meters up the slab to high anchor. May be easier?

Tom O'Halloran closed project. Starts the same as House fire for the first 5m then sweeps to the right through a shallow groove, up on some bubbly flakes and tends slighty right again up on the high pocketed prow to finish on the right of the roof

There are several lines to the right of Ristretto that end under 'the great roof' that are in the process of being bolted.

Amanda closed project. Starts up SATA and after a couple bolts head out left through the 2 high orange streaks

The scene of yet another ethics debacle, where visions collide, egos are bruised and Negotiation is a primitive wallflower. Fact 1. Emil, after considering the amount of available gear placements across the whole route, and much discussion with other developers at Elphinstone, opted to bolt the line and subsequently did the first ascent. Fact 2. Rowan returned from overseas and took umbrage with Emil since he wanted to attempt it on gear. After having had numerous ascents Rowan chopped the routes bolts. One bolt was left in the route toward the top, presumedly due to lack of gear.

Start as per Person of interest sans bolts. After entering the corner head right past a bolt and up the arete to rejoin Person of interest at its last remaining bolt.

Simon Atkins closed project.

For the most part this is a Tiger Snatch variant. More 'doable' than Tiger Snatch as it avoids the complicated dyno in its upper section, albeit with an extra 20 move price tag. A route for the pumpers. Head left off the halfway rest as per Velvet Love. Clip a bolt, and then head upward and back to the right to clip a bolt of Beta Vinyl. Rejoin Tiger Snatch to the chain.

Rightmost climb on the ledge, directly left of the Via Ferrata. A classic journey with an amazing mix of climbing.

Rumour is it's pretty hard. Direct start to Mono No Aware. The first 35 to be sent by an Australian (albeit noting the question of how to grade Wheel of Life). Tom

Start directly left of Pit Fighter. Bouldery start and more hard bits on bullet rock. Originally graded 31, you decide.

First route to be done at The Pit. Hard, bouldery and beta-y start leads to a quality, sustained pitch. The first 4m experiences some interesting seepage (straight out of the rock) and can be wet even when most of the crag is dry. Stick-clip past the start to the ledge for a very good, easy 26 or hard 25, depending on your height. You can also start up Sentinel for 6m then finish up Point Insertion for an even better 26.

7m left of Point Insertion, starting at small cairn. Long move into quality climbing and great rest. The flake feature above the rest requires devious beta followed by some pumpy crimping. The demise of the start tree has added an extra move at the same grade.

Directly left of Sentinel, last route on the left of this section of ledge before crossing the hanging swamp under the big overhang. Shares start with North by Northwest. Head straight up the wall on some of the best rock The Pit has to offer and no annoying sit down ledges. About halfway up is perhaps the most persistent seepage point on the crag, but slightly off to the side so just be ready to dry off some holds.

Shared start with Circling Vultures. Up this and left at second bolt into confubulating crux then up. Bolted by Scotty and eventually gifted to anyone who could pull the crux. Unlikely to be your first 30....

Gingerly start off right cairn, shared start with Flight Risk. Hard moves off the cairn and trend right at ledge through big moves to shield/flake then up. Logan

Emil's last great line of main wall. Punchy start shared by Pit-fit to the ledge then hard moves up to the box roof for the beta crux above. Get a few breaths in as the technical crux awaits above.

Start off left cairn, powerful pull off pockets to start and bouldery crux off ledge.

Third route in from the left side of the wall. The massive namesake dead tree hanging off the top of the crag is no more. Classy power-endurance route, popular with the pundits. Was a debated 27/28 for a while but many recent repeats the 28 grade has been settled. Ben

Second last route on the left, starting about 2m left of The Sword.

Yet another impressive send by Alex, giving it hard 34. Shared start with Astral Traveller. Head up to small ledge and straight up with increasing difficulty.

A brilliant route offering superb, pumpy climbing until the devious crux sequence. Walk all the way right on the ledge, past a couple of rungs to a small ledge. Best to stick clip the first 2 bolts and trend left through the limestone-like pockets then up. A classic route. Start rung is now glued in and a few more rungs have been added to the slippy traverse.

Uber classic steep pumper. Think 'Way of All Flesh' but longer, steeper and likely a touch harder. Start towards right side of main ledge below bolt on slab and corner feature above. Best to belay off first rung on ledge.

Steep roof climbing in the guts of the cave. Difficult boulder off the ledge then get your steep on. Starts just right of approach hand-over rope.

Classic Mountains 25. One of the bestest at the grade. Tricky flake to steep thuggy roof to pumpy headwall - awesome. Start approx 20m left of approach hand-over rope below right trending flake feature.

Vertical climbing on beautiful orange wall. A little stiff and likely not the warmup you're looking for. Great route regardless. Access ledge via a couple of rungs and this is the furthest route right of the 3.

Great route that tackles both the orange, vertical wall and the steep roof above. Anchors provided below the roof for a cool 24 or all the way for an excellent 26. Starts in the crack feature left of Cruisin' for a Bruisin'.

You'll be proud you got up it. Not everyone's favourite! The leftmost route on this ledge directly up and left of the access rungs, starting in a steep crack feature.

Shared start with Einfingerkuppenaufleger and Astral Traveler. At ledge of Einfingerkuppenaufleger, heads right through overhanging corner feature and up beautiful wall above.

PROJ bolts leading out lip of roof. harder finish for SATA and HFITOD

Striking line of orange and grey rock up central high buttress. Rings. Start: As for base of Rap. Locate BB on ramp.

1. Left of low first ring. Technical to gain orange flake. Up through bulges to gain RB’s. Easier ground to top. DRBB.

Much better than it looks. Great route for beginners to top rope.

Start: Up orange wall through grey slab. 4 carrots to DRLO.

Pockets/seam and black wall on good rock. Up pockets/seam 2 RBs, over bulge RB, up black wall, FH to DFLO as for ETJ.

Start: 4m R of ETJ at thin crack and pockets.

A nice wall climb, better and harder than it looks. Up wall passing 4 BR and FH through top bulge to DFLO at very top of cliff.

Start: 6 M R of Fibro Majestic.

A good wall and rib. This climb celebrates Harry’s 80th birthday and over 50 years of climbing. Start: 3 metres right of H. Up wall with 3 BR and cams if you desire. Up to DFLO at ledge.

optional cams

Pleasant climbing on a hanging slab/arête. Up, verging right onto orange hanging slab/arête. 4 BR to DFLO as for TE.

Start: 3m left of TE.

An easy-featured grey slab. Start: As for MMC, up and immediately veer R, following slab & 4 BR, up to DRLO.

BE & B Cameron 9/8/15

Stick clip FH. A great slab route, pleasant climbing after a hard start.

Start: 5 M Right of MMC in middle of grey slab.

Stick clip FH. Hard start verging right onto jugs.

Start: 6 M Right of MMC.

Clip FH. Traverse through orange section and straight up through to the anchors.

Note: I am yet to put in another bolt so this route doesn't wander on to mysticism use the mysticism bolt for now. Not a big deal.

Stick clip FH. Climb through orange overhang up to jug; punch through crimps and on to an easy finish. If 22 is your limit, probably best you climb Beorn then equip the route or you'll hate placing bolt plates while crimping for your life. Long draw for the third bolt so you can clip off the jug before getting into the hard moves.

Sustained bouldery climbing leading up into the scoops, and a tricky head wall to finish. Just don't forget to check the nest is actually empty. If anyone knows the actual route name please amend.

Start: About 4m right of 'Kookaburra Crack'

Through the rooflet then left around the arete to shared lower offs with unknown. Looks harder than 21.

Start: About 6m left of 'Super Shine'

Excellent. A nice climb up grey and stunning orange rock. Start: At Angophora tree, up fused/thin corner to wall, RB. Up wall [4 RB’s] and orange steep slab to DFHLO below jutting roof.

Excellent. Climbs the twisted hanging arête on great rock. Steep start FH, move R to FH, following arête & featured steep slab to DRBLO below jutting roof.

Start: 2m R of SS.

Good climbing on great rock. Start: As for WW. R at 2nd FH, transverse R to FH, up to FH at flake, up to bulge FH, up slightly L to join WW and FH’s to DRBLO as for WW.

Excellent. A nice variant climb to SS up grey & orange rock. Start: Up as for Weasel Words, L at second FH, up wall FH, L to RB on SS, up wall/orange steep slab, RB to DFHLO below jutting roof.