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Ascents climbed between 2013-7-00 and 2013-12-31 in Janicepts Area by Paul Frothy Thomson

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Showing all 7 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Sat 3rd Aug 2013 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area
25 26 Daphne Sport 30m Good
25? Yeah right... 25M1 maybe, if you skip the V5 boulder problem between the first and second bolt. I couldn't even do the moves in that section despite a great deal of time working it. I'd be keen for someone to repeat it in its current state and let me know their opinions. Long, sustained, run-out and scary with VERY dubious rock). The climbing itself is GOOD, just a shame about the rest. You know you're in for an epic when after 1m of climbing from the ground you're straight into a full dyno.

 
22 Thin Time Sport 24m Very Good
Weird, but GOOD. It's as if someone took all of the holds and specifically aligned them to be in the opposite direction to what you want for each move. Quite sustained and varied, and definately not the easiest 22 I've been on. The sudden change in-pace as you move up the upper arete is intriguing. I enjoyed it.

 
22 Psychodrama Trad 45m Very Good
Exciting! Very old school climbing with a nice mix of gear and bolts, and appropriately run out without being dangerous (provided you ignore the potentially nasty opening moves). The sequence past the first bolt is pretty hard, but there are numerous tricky sequences throughout the whole engaging voyage to the top of the wall. Finger-nail edges! A 60m rope JUST reaches the ground on rap with stretch.

 
Sun 14th Jul 2013 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area
21 The Janicepts Trad 27m Classic
Another repeat. What a bloody classic. I never felt like I was going to fall, but that didn't stop me working for it! Every metre demands something of you. Really enjoyed this lap now that the "stress" of the first tick is gone, and it's a great mile-marker to your trad climbing. The bottom is still awkward, desparate and weird, but the variety is what makes it memorable.

 
18 Amen Corner Trad 30m Very Good
Good to get back on this a few years after it scared me to death. It never felt hard, but the off-width is still gripping, and the entire climb demands your full attention due to its 3D technicality. I kept it run-out to the top to keep me on the ball. A must do at Piddo!

 
Sat 6th Jul 2013 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area
21 The Kraken Trad 40m Very Good
Glad to get on lead this time, and happy to tick it straight off the bat. Technical start, into some strenuous pumpy steep laybacking, with stonker gear the whole way. Good value for the money. I ran it out through the crux, so I sure as hell wasn't going to fall. Heaps of fun!

 
19 The Minotaur Trad 49m Very Good
Done as a single giant 50m pitch, necessitating 2 ropes, lots of loooong slings, NO side-runner in Amen Corner (leavingt the scary, run-out start unprotected), and deliberately NOT placing some gear... The result was surprisingly little rope drag. Exciting, moderately bold climbing, with only 1 hard sequence, but PLENTY of personality and exposure. Feels way more adventurous than it really is.

 

Showing all 7 ascents.

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