Had an onsight lead attempt but backed off at the top of the flake. Wasn’t in the right headspace or too confident in my placements. Right decision, I also had a handhold snap while having a top rope burn and nearly fell off!!!
Always rated and enjoyed this one, seconding Jack and checking his gear. It was blowing an absolute gale at the anchor; bloody freezing doing this just as it was getting dark.
Last lead at least 43 years ago with bare head, bare hands, bare feet a few trusty hexes on blue and silver cord and some pink hand-tied slings. Can't remember it being hard, strenuous or anything other than straightforward, all I can remember is Sebco yelling out from below "Don't fall now Lep!' from which I infer some length of rope between me and my last piece. Seconded today in the manner of a panting old dog, in only slightly less time than it took the little girl nearby to lead Eternity on pre-placed gear. Come on old man, the past is long gone but you're not too old. And the future is now.
Tried onsighting, but when I got to 1/3 of the route I realised I wouldn't have the right size gear to get all the way to the top, came back down and then top roped after. I'm by no means a trad climber, but I could have easily used 4 yellows and 3 to 4 reds, maybe some big nuts could have reduced that.
Clean Repeat. TRS. This was probably the best of the routes I did here today. I found the two cruxes on this kinda hard -though it might just be post-covid fatigue.
Seconding made it a lot easier to commit to the run out offwidth, a style that i really had no idea how to approach. Deffo need to come back to lead it next now that i know!
