Routes as sport in Mount Victoria Area

As for Brain Haemorrhage for about 12m, then trend L up the biggest baddest steepest part of this sector, finishing a couple of metres R of Bloodline. Going left into Bloodline is not on route. Do not climb into Bloodline at all.

Oz's first 34! Since relegated to a tame 33. A 6m direct variant of Tripe, squeezed in between Don't Believe and Tripe. Ben Tom Jake

Start up Brain Haemorrhage to roof and head left to join Bloodline. Quite a few dynamic moves heading left up via the obvious left leaning ramp.

You'll arrive with your feet on Bloodline ledge. Suck in the oxygen and finish up Bloodline.

Note... You might be tempted to stay low avoiding the classic ramp (crux). If this is the case, give yourself a 29 tick.

Start 5m R of Bloodline. Phenomenal. It's the route with the obvious double pockets above the roof. 32 in the latest guide; but consensus seems to be about 31.

Classic testpiece with superb hard climbing. Start 6m R of TWoAF. A bolt plate is handy to prevent rope burn if you miss the start dyno. Jump start leads to hard moves through the roof. Prep your belayer and/or use a roller biner, hard catches off the roof crux end badly. Move R at the lip of the roof into much pumpiness beyond. A broken hold at the 3rd bolt has been rectified.

Start up Veteran's, into Onions, through Mudeye and finish up Don't Believe. A very similar link is Hyper (30), which skips the Mudeye pocket move by traversing R beneath it to the base of the flake on Don't Believe. Yet another similar link is Bunions (softish 29), which starts up Veteran's, joins Onions at its 4th bolt and finishes up Onions Extension.

Start as for Bloodline through roof, left a move and then straight up.

TWOAF into Bloodline

Start about 15m R of the shared Onions start. Very dusty base, and often muddy/seepy start holds, but great after that. Tackle the steep R-leaning line of flakes and then the biggest part of the roof. JackM Tom

Onions start then trend R up onto the awesome steep grey wall, then drift back L. Axel Jarmila Clint

' My first real project I suspect. Gonna take some time!' yep , three years and one week.. from the ground climb tck , clip high bolt on arrete , sit on the ledge and pull the rope through then up heading right after hands free rest on arette. A 80cm sling above kneebar rest and two more on traverse /crux were used. A grade 30 move or two on a grade 25 route. Would be very soft for tall people. Happy to downgrade if anyone repeats it clean from ground and dissagrees with 29.

Start as for Brain Haemorrhage at top of large sloping block. Boulder out the thin start then good jugs await. After 10m, where BH goes up, scuttle R to a good rest before the sustained crux up the flake and into the roof crack. Steep! Mattia

Starts up Bloodline, then follows Booby Trap left a move and up 2m to the jugs. Now avoid the top crux of Booby trap by easy jugging L and up the last 2 bolts of TWOAF.

A RHF for Tripe.

The Boronia classic and continually under siege. Onions start, head R as for Tripe to 5th bolt, L into the flake and up. Fixed draws are a common sight on this route and become extremely sharp very quickly. Check them carefully or risk death. Bin any sharp ones you find. Clint Inalee

Onions for 5 bolts then a cool pocket boulder to move R into Don't Believe.

New start into Mudeye then finish direct via Onions Extension. Loads of fun climbings and a good option if the Onions start is under siege.

Starts 2m L of 'Pulse' up vague flake feature.

This climb has a lot to offer with a fun start to a good rest then the crux awaits. How many draws can you skip???

The end of another long affair. Great moves, technical with a dynamic finish. Generally considered easy for the grade, but then a hold snapped in 2011. Now its more solid, and a bugger to get a draw onto the 5th bolt.

Start: Start under the short vague arete 1m left of the Stolen corner.

Same start as 'Charged' but continue straight on the face instead of going R.

Up small wall,Boulder through horizontal roof and into orange corner via arette jug. Could be soft. Could be sandbag....depending on if your a boulderer!?

Boulder problem to pumpfest. Start freed by Mark Baker.

Traverse. Onions start, then head R as for Tripe, then traverse the lip all the way to the right. Back jump to clean.

This ones for those who like to get full value from their climbing experience. Having reached the anchors of Onions keep chugging, move right and up and finish at anchors now shared with Don't Believe the Tripe. Originally 27.

Start 3m L of Onions. Boulder your way up to the first link bolt of Aneurysm then straight up into Onions. Hopefully frees the Onions start up a bit.

Start as for Thin Time. The right hand route.

As for OH over first bulge then trend a bit R up the cool crescent shaped black fused flake.

Start: Start as for OH.

Neat but not three stars. The orange streak right of DFD. Originally bolted and being worked by Frey Yule in 91 before 2 visiting Poms stole it. Old bolts, new lower-offs.

Please bring a spanner to remove the coachscrew.

Start: As for 'Jug Buzz' then right.

Same start as Turkey Slap, but head right into a couple micro-crimps instead of the large pocket to the left. Follow chalk trail to the left till you reach the rail, than finish up same as Turkey Slap.

Currently 27, due to it being a harder variant of 'Turkey Slap'.

2m R of JG.

All bolts removed 13/5/2019

Right side of Grace arete. Bouldery moves to get started!

Climbs a beautiful, vibrant red overhanging face in one enormous pitch. Marred by sections of rubbish rock and several chipped pockets.

1. 51m (27) Runout short corner (optional wires/small cams) 4m left of the arete, and 2m right of IMaMFOS. Up past 23 rings with desperate moves to the anchor.

2. 9m (18) Step right from the anchors, then a few punchy moves up the slab to the top of the buttress.

Links the start of Teenage 'Werewolf' into Teenage NB.

Start: Through choss off bottom ledge. At 3m step right and head straight up.

30mtr right of Maurice Road, stickclip first bolt, pull through large holds in roof onto wall. Huge moved on glorious steepenings

Up detached block to traverse right up face, through largest section of roof to headwall. Very distinct boulder problem in roof. Lots of 60-80cm slings after block. A small chain assists clipping last bolt, then a hard move at top ,with namesake drag, to loweroffs. A 70mtr rope will just get you to the ground.

This route and (particularly) its neighbor should be approached more like an adventure route on bolts , as long slings were used on first ascent in many places. climb as for D.Q for three bolts then reachy improbable undercling/pinch move to gain first overhang. Another thrutchy crux up to roof , through this with creativity to orange streak headwall and excellent crux sequence. A total pumper and tough tick. Two hands over the very top for the send! Bring extendable draws for face and roof.

Short steep wall 10m left of offal. The entire crux and grade has been circumnavigated since the first three ascents by a jug out left which was not reachable or cleanable during development and appeared chalked and cleaned aboutva year after f.a, therefore grade is 25-26. R. Hoffman made first ascent using crimp directly above flake as intended, then C. Coghill ripped it in half. If your ever wondering how it was 28 and your imagination fails you...try it without going in the opposite direction to where the bolts are and skip the jug horn out left. (Still soft)

The original route up the right side of the wall, to anchors beneath final bulge. This used to be 26.

Start up Onions to 3rd bolt then head left into Veteran's Affair. Rebolted 28-03-19

New start into Aneurysm. If you traverse left into Grey Power to avoid the top crux you've done "Spray Power" at about grade 25. Straight up is the way to go.

Start as for Grey Power (if you think the start feels hard it used to have a jug...). After the 2nd bolt veer R (3rd bolt often gets skipped). After the 5th bolt go straight up, despite what all the chalk circling around to the left might suggest. Clint

Grape Power into Onions (Extended Dance Mix) via the top 2 bolts of Veteran's, avoiding the Veteran's anchor jugs. If you finish at the Veteran's anchor its a good 25 (Grape Affair).

Should see more traffic, definitely worthwhile. Great angle in the bottom half. Boulder direct past 3rd bolt, no need to pike left into Sydney Rose. Then a Lyptus-type headwall which is pretty clean despite appearances. No anchor: step R to Eureka's.

Not great rock! Start 6m left of TJ.

Start 2m left of On Edge. Old carrots but eminently convenient to TR now that Flake Crack has got lower-offs.

Rings to the right of the arete, R of Berserker.

Pumpy, steep greatness! Popular. Batman to the first bolt of TWoAF, and start from here. Permadraws added Nov 2017 and replaced when neccesary. As always, check all fixed gear and don’t blindly trust it. Lowering from both steel anchor biners will greatly prolong the life of the last permadraw biner.

One really long and sustained wall pitch and one short exit pitch. Rock quality isn't immaculate but it's a gorgeous line of least resistance with no escape for the forearms. Approach: walk in as for Thor Head main wall (down to Asgard Swamp and up the ridge until the views of the Grose reveal themselves). The track flattens out on this ridge and about 50m before Thor Head main wall the track drops slightly to a rocky flat area which is a good lookout. Exit tourist track on the right side just before this and walk back along edge of cliffline past small sandy cave for 30m to find fixed rope tied around small trees (GPS -33.5512, 150.2991 - refer to topo). Rap down this rope for 5m to ledge - walk across this (clipped into fixed rope) for 10m to rap anchors in small cave. Best to FIX a 60m+ rope to this anchor and bomb straight down to ledge and start of route. This bottom ledge is big and comfy and safe to walk around on unroped.

1. 50m (26) Long complex wall and flake features that doesn’t let up the whole way. Has a bit of a traverse right in the middle and a traverse left near the end. Belay on good ledge at two FHs. 25+ bolts.

2. 15m (18) Hangers up wall and corner right of the belay to rap anchors that you rapped in from. 4 bolts.

A typical Law route, delicate and powerful at the same time.

Start: Start 10m R of BH, at the obvious bolted seam near the R end of the main wall.

The undercut arete.

2m R. Bouldery start at flake at head height, trending right to join 'Particle Accelerator' before its crux, clipping anchors out left below roof.

Steep funky climbing.

Start 2m R of EOF through steepness with a crux in the middle to big rest then bust on through chipped roof and pull lip (crux) then up head-wall another 8m with typical rope drag. Very gymnastic and lots of fun!

The extension to TCK.Craft a move past the TCK anchor , have a picnic, then up arette/scoop (crux) , crank through rooflet and up to DUB anchor.

Originally graded 24, but clearly something has snapped off as it's at least 26 now. Bolted arete 1m left of Casper's corner. Starts up the short arete to ledge. Scary clip of next bolt, then up face to dyno move to roof??!! Hard move left above roof then easy crimpy face to cracked bulge up high. Has repelled some serious contenders.

Squeezed in on the prow on the far right side of the wall. Marked '26' in chalk.

Crazy steep!

Start a few metres right of Haystack Madness. Stick clip 2nd bolt, then up through insane steepness on big jugs/breaks, to very punchy move just past the lip of the big roof. Then up the steep face, and into the big juggy roof to the anchors.

Starting just right of George. Quite the adventure. Some hard face climbing then onto the arete and up and finishing through final roof. The rope runs much better past the ledge if you clip bolts 5&6 then pull it through to get it out of the first 4 draws.

On right wall underneath overhanging buttress 20m right of Brain Haemorrhage. Left-trending line finishing at big chain lower-off.

Start up Flesh and Blood and keep traversing into TWOAF and finish up this for a mega pump.

Start left of cave on jugs then traverse past thin technical problem and keep traversing right on better holds and finish up wall and through roof left of TWOAF. 2 fixed draws.

About V4 - old boulder problem from the early days, just had to be bolted.

Start 4m R of IBaC.

4 metres left of Dragon's Tooth. Rings on left side of central wall of the square cut recess.

A piece of vertical technicality - very 1980s!

Start: 2m right of MM.Finishes at MM chain.

Classic sustained technical arete. Start as for Mogmbo for a bolt then traverse right boldly and up the arete.

scramble down gully to ledge at 1/3rd height, walk along to belay. 1st pitch 20m up to ledge and double ringbolt belay. 2nd pitch continues straight up to top & double rings.

Start 15m R at the belay on the ledge, right of the bush. Careful of the drop below. Up and left.

Thin start, best to take a wire to help clip first carrot. Bring bolt plates x12

Start 3m R of the enormous cairn of Grape Hour. Clip the low RB so that the leader doesn't slam into the rope working the hard moves to the 2nd bolt. Very tough thin moves past the first 2 bolts then the right side of the scoop. Most people step L at the last bolt but the glued up flake direct finish goes too.

Orange face/blunt arette 4m right of Space Face. Very thin and dynamic start leads to great climbing. Lower off and traverse (bolted) across to spaceface for exit.

Start a few metres left of Whores du Combat, up a move, traverse left and up. Rings all the way (rebolted 2006).

Needs a rebolt!

Start: 'Arete' 4m Left of Voyage for Two.

1. 27m (26) Up right to arete, then left. Up wall and groove.

2. 23m (22) Groove, right around bulge, up wall and corner as for VfT.

The middle route on the face. Rebolted 2004

Start: Rap down the centre of the face. Route starts at the chain belay for Teenage 'Werewolf'.

Excellent red wall. Top pitch makes a good warmup for the other routes.

Fix a 60m+ rope and rap from three rings under southern end of summit blob. Marked with a painted R. Belay at base of grand orange wall above mossy slab on twin rings.

1. 37m (25) Superb rock. Sustained and reachy vertical wall climbing with a right kink at halfway. Exciting finish via technical mossy slab (you brushed it on the way down, right?)

2. 30m (22) Sustained wierdness up ironstone plates and gritty pockets. Belay off three u-bolts on shale ledge.

Another goodly long face route.

Fix 70m rope off large tree 5m south of Raving Bull anchors and rap down huge orange face to belay ledge about 5m down and right of the left arete of the wall.

1. 15m (24) Mossy slab for a few metres then straight up reachy orange face on cool pockets to join into Hurt It etc for two bolts then traverse right across hand ledge to semi-hanging belay at small ledge at double u-bolts.

2. 40m (25) Onward up epic orange face. Sustained to the very last move. 17 bolts - some long runners reduce rope drag.

Boulder low bulge then trend up left, but don't join H (the topo in the 2007 BM guide is wrong).

Start: Start 5m R of H.

Left of Hitlistless. Boulder to fused corner. Good!!

Super contrived bolted face just left of Endotoxic Shock. Appears to share many holds but stays away from that routes crack.

The plum line of this sector. Start 3m L of SD and climb all the way to the tippy top with the lower-off on the ship's prow.

Den on High Tension

Start: Left of Hum.

The glued on hold is a disgrace.

Start: Between 'Transmission' and 'Pulse'. Great climb at about 23 to a cruxy middle section, should be more popular but considered hard at the grade.

A series of big moves to a crimp crux. Don't clip anchor on left. Instead, go up right into the chasm before a fun lip traverse leads you out onto the headwall.

Route on left side of cave taking line through right of prow to single u lower off on head wall. Punchy photogenic last moves in steep terrain! Best to back jump one or two bolts for cleaning as rope can get stuck in groove when pulling.

Between a project on the prow, and All the Madmen.

Start under rooflet, marked '25' in chalk.

The 3rd bolted line R of The Friendly Jackal. Has "25" scratched into a piece of shale in the first few metres of the climb.

Varied and interesting. Rebolting has led to sudden popularity.

The climb finishes at the top anchor after the mantle, then either down climb or lower and rethread at the initial anchor to avoid trashing your rope. If you don’t go to the top you haven’t done the climb!

Batman start up TWOAF then at the 4th or 5th bolt go L and up through the roof to anchors on Flesh and Blood

A closed project. Please don't attempt the route.

Using the crack, through the roof, onto the face and then to the anchors. Requires significant crack climbing skills.

50m L of the Tower of Song wall is a high, hanging arete. This route traverses R out the lip of the roof towards the arete then up to DRBB. One carrot and two U-bolts.

Line of rings squeezed between Ferret's Route Direct and Ferret's Route