Routen als sport in Mount Victoria Area

Climb the wall on interesting rock 2m right of Yellow Crack past new carrots.

Top out and look for rings set well back from edge.

Start just to the right of Yellow Wall on the jug, move right then follow line of rings.

The left hand line of rings through steepness from the belay ledge of TSL. Wandery. Good. Belay as for TSL off rings.

1. 15m (19) Lovely techy slab (with infamous reachy move) to comfy belay ledge. Stays damp after any rain.

2. 28m (20) Slabby arête then a runout into cave, lean carefully left out of cave for 3rd RB. Now fight the pump up the long sustained overhung headwall right to the last move. DRBB 2m back over the top.

Rightmost line of rings off the belay of TSL. Tree belay on top.

1. 12m (19) First pitch is described as not great and is quite vegetated at time of writing.

2. 30m (23) Second pitch is good (all rings now), and may be combined with the other 3 upper pitches previously described; in which case, traverse in right from the belay of TSL (a bolt would be handy, or swing across on your rap rope) and belay on the ledge below the climb (currently off an ancient FH, and the RB above it). Tree belay on top (same top-out as Much of a Muchness).

Rings to the right of the arete, R of Berserker.

Start: 'Arete' (carrots) 30m left of Voyage for Two.

1. 30m (23) Right and then left side of arete. Bring #3 and/or #5 cam for the runout.

2. 20m (24) Arete and flake, right to small roof, up then back to the arete and up.

Variation of JoJ second pitch.

Start: Straight up the arete to anchors.

Needs a rebolt!

Start: 'Arete' 4m Left of Voyage for Two.

1. 27m (26) Up right to arete, then left. Up wall and groove.

2. 23m (22) Groove, right around bulge, up wall and corner as for VfT.

3 pitches rebolted 2004

Start: 'Arete' just right of Pussy Strut. Start in thin crack right side of the arete. Ring bolts.

Pitch Descriptions:

1. 15m (24) Climb the face around the crack.

2. 15m (25) Up arete.

3. 25m (23) Delicate moves up the slab to top.

Start: 1m left again.

Start: Right side of the arete left of GU. Has been rebolted with a direct start.

Start: Nth facing wall 30m down from 'Last Chance'.

Start: 5m right of BU. One of the bolts is hidden inside the large half-height break.

Right arete of slabby face past 3 rings and 2 glue-in carrots.

Start: 'Arete' 2m left of LC.

Start: 1m left of TK.

Straight up from WYL initials. Step right into Masochist corner for a few moves then left onto face and up headwall to lower offs . Watch rope length. (Alternately just climb the thing on trad as a variant to Masochist as was the custom 30 years ago, recently revived by Macca)

Exposed but retro'd. 50m rope ok if belayer is on block as base

As for the Plunge but traverse right and up through roof

Interesting and varied wall climbing. Start on arete left of a rotten groove (original route) beneath a big, black wall. 70m rope is fine for lower-off. Loose bolts have been replaced (2020).

1. 15m (13). Bolts right of Valhalla, up scoopy arete.

2. 15m (19). Bolts up right side of arete. Lower offs on both belays.

3. Finish up "Vinyl Idyl"[15381421] if you must. 2BR top belay (no option to lower off this pitch).

Start from DBB above the top of "Cartwheeling"[15381121]. Follow left arete up past 5 bolts and a ring to DBB on top.

Start as for Joseph. Diagonally right to tree.

Rebolted Oct 2010, and loweroff added to eliminate the runout doddle finish (it's a 30m pitch if you continue past the new anchors to the top).

A slippery idea for a climb. As for SSCC1, but continue up the arete, onto easy ground (DRB). Best to lower off, but originally went to top of block, then arete behind.

Start up Neurotic Direct Start and follow the line of rings. Reachy. A medium cam can be placed between 2nd and 3rd bolts, but not really necessary.

Retrobolted by the FA in Oct 2010 to make it a "classic sport route". Traverse R out of the gully (as for The Banshee) then up R side of arete (RBs), to lower-offs around on left.

Start 2m left of On Edge. Old carrots but eminently convenient to TR now that Flake Crack has got lower-offs.

Start 2m left of Hope. Slab climbing up orange face between Hope and Charity. Step right and finish on Hope when it gets hard. Direct finish is much harder.

Start as for Introduction then left across wall and up. One wire at the start then all carrots.

Climb the face 3-6m R of Amen Corner. Start as for Minotaur. Joins Psychodrama for a few bolts in the middle then heads back left. Mostly (dodgy old) carrots, take brackets. Same lower-off as Amen Corner.

Not great rock! Start 6m left of TJ.

Start a few metres left of Whores du Combat, up a move, traverse left and up. Rings all the way (rebolted 2006).

Start as for Thin Time. The right hand route.

Start as for Thin Time but take the right line of bolts up orange face, through bulge and up snappy black face above. Was originally graded 24 - and appears to still be a sandbag at 25 considering the lack of successful ascents on this site!

Start 26m left of TJ. Rebolted (~2007?), and excellent from go to whoa. Stick clip recommended as the starting flake does not sound good.

Start: 1.5m right of Curtain Call.

Slab to face just left of Curtain Call. One tough move over the bulge. Finishes at ledge with chain - easy to lower-off and clean or top out and go home up the fixed rope.

Left to right traverse of the north face along the horizontal break feature. Originally done in two pitches. The first is sport and finishes at hidden rap chain above Flaming Youth. The second is poorly protected trad and is rarely done.

Starts for Disinclined for 2m then up groove and corner on left edge of wall. Don't underestimate the last couple of moves - it's steep!

Pump through the guts of the wall finishing with a spicy crimp and some of the best jugs around. Climb BBB for three bolts, then right and up centre of wall to eventually finish as for last bolt of Cant. Equipped during the dying days of the multi-month Covid lockdown of 2021.

Disinclined traverse for 3 bolts then up the middle of the orange overhung wall skirting the edge of the grey rock up high. Finishes left through amazing steep jugs (shared finish with Freedom Day).

Well chalked overhung route up right side of north face of boulder. At the half way height bail right onto arete (the direct finish is Leanings).

Popular and dry pumper. Climb Flaming Youth then continue direct up the overhung wall to top of boulder.

The right side of the arete- Flight Line for the masses.

Thin face "slab" just right of Genesis.

1. 25m (24) 7 rings to lower-off. Top is runout - medium cams may help.

2. 25m (24) Left, through hard bulge, and up wall past a large thread, a med cam, and 3 old carrot bolts, then run out to top. Belay anchor from glue in stainless carrot set well back on clifflet behind, and boulder closer to edge.

Orange face/blunt arette 4m right of Space Face. Very thin and dynamic start leads to great climbing. Lower off and traverse (bolted) across to spaceface for exit.

Rap in route. From opposite first Piddo carpark walk 5min down Witches Glen trail , turn left at sundeck cave then leave track above second big prow (first prow has highline anchor) Fix a rapline and rap 18m off DRB down line of FH's to semi hanging belay with 2 FH and U-bolt. Clip the odd FH on the way down to stay in. Great exposure and a nice little ledge for rope.

Fun easy roof jugging to short headwall. Warning: There have been at least 3 incidents of quickdraws being worn through or severed from repetitive falling on the 1st bolt of this climb - take care if this is near your limit!

Punchy little roof problem down low. Don't blow the 4th clip - people have hit the tree. The moves direct past the last bolt do still go, so it probably makes the most sense to treat the round-the-world miles out to the left as being part of the 23 and not part of this route.

Start as for Mr Curly then left on FHs into top of Silent Rage. To keep it at the grade you probably want to do the round-the-world way out left of the last bolt.

Short juggy corner.

Subtle black arete that seeps after rain.

Squeezed in wall starting as for 'Ancient Mariner',then leftwards past carrots to anchor in the middle of the wall.

The left side of the main arete on the mini wall.

Climbs just right of the main arête. Cops morning sun.

Ring bolts to lower off on the undercut grey slab.

No longer missing a bolt down low - in fact it's all new bolts.

Sharp jugs. Lefthand route on the main wall. Start as for Sydney Rose, traverse left for three bolts then head up the steepness.

Steep power packet. All rings to lower offs.

Should see more traffic, definitely worthwhile. Great angle in the bottom half. Boulder direct past 3rd bolt, no need to pike left into Sydney Rose. Then a Lyptus-type headwall which is pretty clean despite appearances. No anchor: step R to Eureka's.

A very worthwhile alternative to Euchre; shared start for 5-6m then head left. The run out to the anchor is exciting but easy. Now has new ringbolts.

Link up. Starts up Lyptus for 4 bolts, extend the draw and move left into Euchre. Small runout but good holds. Easier warm up option than Lyptus and still fun.

One of the best warm ups for the harder routes and a fine route to earn the grade also. Very popular. Anchor replaced 16/10/18. [If the headwall of this route is wet, an equally good but dry 23 is “Lyptus Power”: Lyptus to the crux then easily R across Grape Hour (which will also be wet up high), to join Grey Power].

Classic pumper in the middle of the wall - get a ticket and get in line. Start at the enormous permanent cairn. Stickclip essential.

Start up Grape Hour into the finish of Grey Power. You move R just before the 3rd bolt of GH. Good luck at saying all these route names and not getting confused!

Grape Power into Onions (Extended Dance Mix) via the top 2 bolts of Veteran's, avoiding the Veteran's anchor jugs. If you finish at the Veteran's anchor its a good 25 (Grape Affair).

Start 3m R of the enormous cairn of Grape Hour. Clip the low RB so that the leader doesn't slam into the rope working the hard moves to the 2nd bolt. Very tough thin moves past the first 2 bolts then the right side of the scoop. Most people step L at the last bolt but the glued up flake direct finish goes too.

Start as for Grey Power (if you think the start feels hard it used to have a jug...). After the 2nd bolt veer R (3rd bolt often gets skipped). After the 5th bolt go straight up, despite what all the chalk circling around to the left might suggest. Clint

Start up Veteran's, into Onions, through Mudeye and finish up Don't Believe. A very similar link is Hyper (30), which skips the Mudeye pocket move by traversing R beneath it to the base of the flake on Don't Believe. Yet another similar link is Bunions (softish 29), which starts up Veteran's, joins Onions at its 4th bolt and finishes up Onions Extension.

New start into Aneurysm. If you traverse left into Grey Power to avoid the top crux you've done "Spray Power" at about grade 25. Straight up is the way to go.

Start 3m L of Onions. Boulder your way up to the first link bolt of Aneurysm then straight up into Onions. Hopefully frees the Onions start up a bit.

New start into Mudeye then finish direct via Onions Extension. Loads of fun climbings and a good option if the Onions start is under siege.

Start up Onions to 3rd bolt then head left into Veteran's Affair. Rebolted 28-03-19

The original route up the right side of the wall, to anchors beneath final bulge. This used to be 26.

This ones for those who like to get full value from their climbing experience. Having reached the anchors of Onions keep chugging, move right and up and finish at anchors now shared with Don't Believe the Tripe. Originally 27.

Onions for 5 bolts then a cool pocket boulder to move R into Don't Believe.

The Boronia classic and continually under siege. Onions start, head R as for Tripe to 5th bolt, L into the flake and up. Fixed draws are a common sight on this route and become extremely sharp very quickly. Check them carefully or risk death. Bin any sharp ones you find. Clint Inalee

Oz's first 34! Since relegated to a tame 33. A 6m direct variant of Tripe, squeezed in between Don't Believe and Tripe. Ben Tom Jake

Onions start then trend R up onto the awesome steep grey wall, then drift back L. Axel Jarmila Clint

A RHF for Tripe.

Traverse. Onions start, then head R as for Tripe, then traverse the lip all the way to the right. Back jump to clean.

Project starting up Big Wednesday then heading left through roof, joins Green Eggs at the crux and finishing ...probably up Tripe but maybe Mechanical Animals!

As for Big Wednesday, then up through the bowl and into Tripe.

Start about 15m R of the shared Onions start. Very dusty base, and often muddy/seepy start holds, but great after that. Tackle the steep R-leaning line of flakes and then the biggest part of the roof. JackM Tom

Up Big Wednesday then right and up.

Short steep wall 10m left of offal. The entire crux and grade has been circumnavigated since the first three ascents by a jug out left which was not reachable or cleanable during development and appeared chalked and cleaned aboutva year after f.a, therefore grade is 25-26. R. Hoffman made first ascent using crimp directly above flake as intended, then C. Coghill ripped it in half. If your ever wondering how it was 28 and your imagination fails you...try it without going in the opposite direction to where the bolts are and skip the jug horn out left. (Still soft)

A solid 23. Located 80m right of Big Wednesday. Rebolted 2018 thanks to Kip for the bolts. Stickclip first u bolt and also use draw on mallion to keep rope and belayer in a nice place. Very chossy and hard moving past first bolt. The difficulties continue until eventually settled in corner. From there on up good climbing on dirty rock. If everybody brushes something it should clean up nicely.

Walk about 80m past Big Wednesday. Very high stickclip then traverse in from right and across to big ledge. Consider a sling on first bolt otherwise noticeable ropedrag. Up to second bolt with care then good sustained climbing to loweroff. Rebolted with U-Bolts courtesy of Kip. December 2018.

Route has not been located. From 2002 print guide "Rap in from carrots down and right from Albatross. Up again past carrots and fixed hangers." This route may also require trad but it was not mentioned in the original write-up.

The middle of the orange wall. Locate double Ubolts set back from the edge of the main lookout spot (and near two old rusty dynabolts). Fix rope and rap straight down wall to full hanging belay about 15m above the ground. Route starts with a little traverse left then up gorgeous orange face, through small rooflet and finishes up face just left of corner system on fragile unusual holds.

Absolutely worth the hassle of a rap in climb out route. Brilliant orange rock for most of the way and visible from above from right side of Ferris Cave. Added bonus - belay is from a small ledge - not a pain hanging belay like other routes here. Shares the same rap anchor as Pop the Question (two U-bolts above short corner) but rap straight down to small ledge (about halfway down the wall). Bizarrely bolted with a totally random mix of carrots and rings - so bring at least 8 bolt plates.

Left side of wall - shared start with Pixie Drink.

Shared start with Battery Chicken then right line.

Far right route on wall - written up as 25m but old topo show it the same height as nearby routes (15m)

Left route off shared start