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Routes as sport in Dragon's Tooth Area

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Showing all 8 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
26 Calamity Jane

4 metres left of Dragon's Tooth. Rings on left side of central wall of the square cut recess.

FA: Ivan Valenta

Sport 20m
18 Ooops

Line of obvious fixed hangers between Dragon's Tooth and the Technical Stuff arete to loweroffs.

FA: G Short P Mort, 2008

Sport 15m
19 Technical Stuff (direct start)

Instead of starting on the right side of the TS arete, start on the left side following two carrots. Finish up TS. (Is this the same route as Mombassa?).

Sport 20m
22 Samnivel

Great wall climb. Thin in places. All rings. Start: 3.5m right of TS.

FA: J.Smoothy, S.Knight & R.Weigand, 1982

Sport 20m
21 Panasonic Princess

All Aussie iconic carrots in their full glory. A tad run out to keep you modest and humble in this mean world.

Delicate balancey moves up the arete and then the final jug fest up head wall to loweroffs.

FA: I Valenta & J Montgomery, 2002

Sport 20m
20 Metabo Man

Start 1m L of MMR, up the slab then the nice leaning grey headwall 2m L of MMR. All carrots, but the first one is high and a tricky clip so either clip the first carrot of PP on the left or bring a cam.

FA: J Allwood, 2000

Sport 20m
23 Mal's Mega Route

Steep classic on good rock and rings all the way. High first bolt can be supplemented with small cam in a break, or a long stick clip from first ledge if you wish.

Start: 4m right of M.

FA: M. Gray & J. Smoothy, 1982

Sport 20m
25 Roger's Smegma Chute

Start 5m R of MMR, one high FH in grey rock then the orange headwall on rings. A bit more sustained than MMR with an exciting overhanging dyno to finish. Beautiful rock. Add a grade if your reach is limited. Although latest guidebook states an attentive belayer is required, no amount of attention avoids the nasty crux fall. Instead fix a 120cm sling to next bolt and clip where the bolt should be.

FA: Roger, 2008

Sport 20m

Showing all 8 routes.

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