Routes as sport in Mount York

Now with RBs

Ringbolts just left of corner to lower-off's. Hard start, then steady going.

Thin face climbing on very slight overhanging wall to break then up. No bridging on the other route. Start is the crux. 5 RBs to anchors. Bold "old skool 80's" climbing.

Brackets to lower offs

Thin face climbing, with a runout between 3rd and 4th bolts.

Contrived face just left of the Obituary. First bolt is very high up.

The ringbolted wall left of Refusal - starting from the ledge. Appears to climb the abandoned upper headwall that was bolted as part of a direct finish to Moss' Effort. Slabby climbing to third bolt and then up. Runout between 2nd and 3rd in the flake section (be careful). Originally graded 22 - but recent attempts have it pegged at more 24+ - possibly missing a hold between first two bolts.

Great climb on some really weird rock ... Well worth it. Was once carrots, since retrobolted with rings.

Great climbing on very unique, sharp mountains sandstone. A carrot or two and then fixed hangers all the way to the anchors. Has gone from under- to over-bolted thanks to the retrobolts added circa 2012. Currently 23 in the 2010 Blue Mountains Guide

All bolts removed 13/5/2019

All bolts removed 13/5/2019

Either a visionary piece of bolting, or the start of a slippery slope depending on perspective. Birth of sport climbing in the Blueies. Originally homemade fixed hangers, has since been rebolted on huge, shiny mass-manufactured fixed hangers!

As for PT but stay on the arete. Take 3 brackets!

Super sustained slab with a welcome picnic cave halfway. Rebolted 2004.

The hardest climb at Mt York when it was done in 82. Take about four long slings.

A piece of vertical technicality - very 1980s!

As for RD for first two bolts, then trend further left and up to 'breaking wave' finish.

As for MP, moving left after first bolt and up steep face. Great.

The glorious arete. Starts 1m right of the huge 'MP' marking.

The face in the middle of the pillar, starting up Marooned before moving left.

The right arete of the pillar. Surprisingly pumpy! 4 ring bolts to double ring bolt anchor.

Start: 20m R of Silly Chimney, L of tree below single carrot on wall. Straight up following carrots (one FH) to lower offs.

Start: Adjacent to Last Thoughts on R of tree. Follow bolts to lower offs. ​​

Just L of arete, 5m L of Rotating Toothbrush. Up past two bolts to rap station.

Climb up easily with stick clip to clip first bolt (or take trad gear). The thin cracks right of bolt to reach left, up and left to overhanging line. Airily up to anchors.

Active Project with tag between on The Loose and Let’s Dance.

The righthand of three routes on this wall. Up wall and bulgy overhang to anchors.

The left hand route on Cracked Emerald wall. A gymnastic move past second bolt follow right wall of arete to anchors.

Start just left of CE (marked). Bouldery start to break, up compact wall following RBS to anchors.

Right side of wall. Thin crimping. Stick clip first bolt. 4 RBS to anchors.

The left most route on the recessed face, equipped with carrots and fixed hangers. The top pitch is steep and in a very good position.

Line of carrots right of MTR, with lower offs at lip of ledge. Can also be done easily on gear but needs a #5 or 6 BD.

1. Line of rings up slab to DRBB.

2. Line of rings up orange wall to DRBB lower-offs.

Start: Bolts 3m right of YD. This route is now unclimbable due to tree growing next to wall.

Major arete on left side of the overhung wall. Start 3m right of the arete and trend left onto arete by about the 4th bolt. The arete can be climbed direct (22) or by climbing the face on the left side (20).

Start 3m right of Unknown on left of the cave. Up juggy wall to roof, then swing right and diagonally upwards to overlap then straight up wall to loweroffs.

Start as for Fizzgig and traverse further right then up near right end of block. Use long slings to avoid rope drag. Alternatively start in Blaxlands Gully, crawl along ledge or launch off edge of gully and up onto the wall, then straight up. May have been climbed in the dark ages.

Jugs until they run out. Starts 2m left of Ashes to Ashes up the left side of the wall - and 17m right of the gully. Generally considered soft for the grade (get on it people!).

Great route with a couple of bouldery sections - including a massive reach/dyno depending on your stature. Stick clip. Often has birds nesting in the big break on the right, particularly in spring. Have a look, and stay off if you see signs of a nest.

Start: Righthand route.

Start: Above Peeceezy. Traverse the roof to the left. Backjump to clean.

Lefthand route. Take care with the rock at the top.

Start: On wall aroung the corner from previous routes.

Take care with the rock.

Start: As for PF but right.

Start: Left of the offwidth corner.

The obvious line up the scoops immediately above the trad grade 10 corner at path level. 12m as a sport route from the scramble onto block, about 20m from path level including easy corner (no bolts till ledge). Plenty of bolts on headwall and good climbing.

Start: Technically this also starts up the corner below but most people do it off the ledge! Line of bolts 1.5m right of Noodle.

Start as for Lexical Density up corner via shiny carrot belay bolts just out of sight on arete (these are 3m below first visible fixed hanger at 10m). Then directly up right-most route on wall with numerous newer fixed hangers to anchor lower-off. Not bad.

On Fixed Hangers. Start up slightly left of Public Pressure, and trend up and left through varied climbing (and varied rock quality). Single hangerless carrot right before the anchor.

Start as for Murmel Snooze at initials. Straight up through the overlap then drift left to stay out of Mezzaluna. Mostly carrots, take brackets.

Has become a bit of a classic. 8 ring bolts. May be worth taking a sling or long quickdraw for the 2nd or 3rd bolt and last bolt, to avoid pulling the rope against corners of the rock.

Excellent wall between 'Mezzaluna' and 'High Society'

Up about 10m to 'friend' pocket on right, left past bolts and up to top. Take Care!

Start: A little way up the ramp towards the ledge.

Start: 5m right of High Society at tree.

Up past obvious hole in the wall. Originally done on gear, now bolted with carrots (large heads).

Start: 3m left of Frolic. DRBB set back and out of sight.

Line of U-bolts 0.5m right of Frolic. Finish on DRBB on Salubrious. If you use the Frolic crack at the start it knocks this down to a really nice grade 13ish.

This is a great climb, definitely worth it. Solid for the grade.

Why?

Start: Right again near boulder.

Start: 1m right of Unethical on the other side of the boulder.

Start: 2m right of Stinkeye at the tree.

Follow carrots veering up right to DRBB.

Start: As for IKB.

U-bolts up steep corner, but break out left around the arete.

Shared start with CAC up slab, then stay right (in the corner), around overlap to DRBB.

Ring-bolted lonely line just to left of the descent gully. Goes alright and a reasonable addition to the area. Needs to be cleaned up a lot.

Strenuously through bulges and up wall. Mostly carrots but cam good up high.

The left hand route on the high ledge. 2 carrots and 4 FHs. Double ring anchor.

Nice exposed arete on the right edge of the high ledge. Excellent! Take care with one of the roof "jugs"; it sounds hollow and fragile. Pull past it. DRB on ledge at top.

A bit of banter - "Colyvan was under intense pressure to do this route in defiance of Ralph's claim to the upper half...via his direct start. All kinds of serious threats were levelled by his 'friends', including being struck off The Regulars List for Life" -A.P

Start on the right side of the high ledge. Step right off the ledge and climb the wall 2-3m R of Uncle Amy, to lower offs.

Doesn't add much. Start on the right side of the high ledge. Step right off the ledge and climb 1-2m R of PO to the bulge, but then basically rejoin PO to surpass the bulge. Then step R and join PSD to the top.

The leftmost route at ground level, at the bottom of the fixed rope. At the third ringbolt you can either go left and up to slot - at least grade 25 (medium cam required) or straight up on bolts and small flake, then finish left and up Nocturnal. It's possible to link into Serious Leather for a more sustained finish. The original 1988 version of this route actually finished way left and up Popular Opinion.

The logical finish. Instead of traversing left into top of Popular Opinion at the 3rd bolt, go straight up the easy ring bolted wall (shared with Nocturnal).

Start 4m right of PS, 2m L of DF. Wall, flake and small corner to roof. Over and onto wall above to loweroffs.

Up to roof and over to loweroffs at top. This is all on bolts and worth getting on. Great climbing and the view!!!

The corner 4-5m R of IN.

Mossy, sometimes!

Start: Up the gully for about 25m. 'Steep' wall on the left. Starts of the small ledge in the centre of the wall. Belay bolts.

4 metres left of Dragon's Tooth. Rings on left side of central wall of the square cut recess.

Line of obvious fixed hangers between Dragon's Tooth and the Technical Stuff arete to loweroffs.

Instead of starting on the right side of the TS arete, start on the left side following two carrots. Finish up TS. (Is this the same route as Mombassa?).

Great wall climb. Thin in places. All rings. Start: 3.5m right of TS.

All Aussie iconic carrots in their full glory. A tad run out to keep you modest and humble in this mean world.

Delicate balancey moves up the arete and then the final jug fest up head wall to loweroffs.

Start 1m L of MMR, up the slab then the nice leaning grey headwall 2m L of MMR. All carrots, but the first one is high and a tricky clip so either clip the first carrot of PP on the left or bring a cam.

Steep classic on good rock and rings all the way. High first bolt can be supplemented with small cam in a break, or a long stick clip from first ledge if you wish.

Start: 4m right of M.

Start 5m R of MMR, one high FH in grey rock then the orange headwall on rings. A bit more sustained than MMR with an exciting overhanging dyno to finish. Beautiful rock. Add a grade if your reach is limited. Although latest guidebook states an attentive belayer is required, no amount of attention avoids the nasty crux fall. Instead fix a 120cm sling to next bolt and clip where the bolt should be.

Has a choice of two starts.

Starts 1m LEFT of of the FR initials - all ringbolts. Awesome pockets to start then butt hard move through bulgy arete and long pump to the anchors. If you scare bring a bolt plate for the old carrot after the crux.

Line of rings squeezed between Ferret's Route Direct and Ferret's Route

Quite good. Rebolted.

Start: Marked.

Step off boulder onto wall then up face right of Rock N Roll Suicide. Grade 22 in the Carter print guide. All FHs.