Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
17 |
★★★ Fire Bug
- with
Greg Blachon
1
17
25m
2
17
15m
3
17
25m
4
5m
| 70m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Mar 2019 | ||||
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with Ash Brennan, Mira Jordan | 76m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th May 2019 | ||||
Engaging climbing in an incredible position! P1 belay was a bit crowded with 3 people, but doable.
Split P3 into 2 pitches, climbing above the block and belaying from there to cut down on rope drag.
Finished well in the dark due to some people abseiling in and jumping on P3 ahead of us us... Not super ideal, but thankfully we all had headlamps!
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with Andrew, Kyle Weatherman | 76m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Wed 25th Sep 2019 | ||||
17 |
★★★ Fire Bug
- with
Cameron Harkins
1
17
30m
2
16
15m
3
17
25m
4
14
6m
| 76m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Dec 2019 | ||||
Decent climbing - really enjoyed the slabby face of P2 and the overhanging corner on P3. Some nice belay spots.
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with Stephen Roche, Greta | 76m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 28th Jun 2020 | ||||
man what cool climb! pitch 3 is one of the funnest pitches ive lead at the grade. the belay ledges for pitch 1 and 3 are fairly average, and having spent a fair bit of time at them in a party of 3, would probs link 1+2 and 3+4 if i did it again
|
|||||||||
17 |
★★★ Fire Bug
- with
Ben Taylor
| 76m | Blue Mountains | Thu 30th Jul 2020 | |||||
17 |
★★★ Fire Bug
1
17
30m
2
17
15m
3
17
25m
4
14
6m
| 76m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 2nd Aug 2020 | ||||
17 |
★★★ Fire Bug
- with
Cameron Harkins
1
17
30m
2
17
15m
3
17
25m
4
14
6m
| 76m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 6th Sep 2020 | ||||
mega route for the grade. A few tough moments and fun exposure but got through it after trusting my jams. Definitely go to the highest point of the cave for the belay and don't spend 30 minutes struggling with cordalette a bit lower down :p
|
|||||||||
17 |
★★★ Fire Bug
- with
Josephine Roper
| 76m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 24th Apr 2021 | ||||
Awesome day out, definitely a blueys classic, linked pitch 1 & 2 drag wasnt too bad. Pitch 3 is ever so slightly harder than 1&2, mostly because the rock quality on pitch 3 is questionable
|
|||||||||
17 |
★★★ Fire Bug
1
17
30m
2
17
15m
3
17
25m
4
14
6m
| 76m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Mon 4th Apr 2022 | ||||
17 |
★★★ Fire Bug
1
17
30m
2
17
15m
3
17
25m
4
14
6m
| 76m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 5th Nov 2022 | ||||
Just wow, so much fun from start to finish!
|
|||||||||
17 |
★★★ Fire Bug
- with
Aaron Wong
| 76m | Blue Mountains | Sun 20th Nov 2022 | |||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Thu 1st Apr 2004 | ||||
with Isabelle from SRC
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | 2006 | |||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Thu 29th Jan 2004 | ||||
with shaun
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | Average | Sat 30th Oct 2004 | ||||
as good as cracks get I suppose
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 29th Aug 2004 | ||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | Wed 25th Dec 2002 | |||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 30th Oct 2004 | ||||
unreal 3rd pitch
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | 2004 | ||||
Shudder at thoughts of the original ascent on sparse passive protection
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th Aug 2004 | ||||
loved pitch 3
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 13th Jul 2003 | ||||
Beautiful climb, one of the best natural lines I've done...ever!!
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Apr 2006 | ||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 30th Dec 2008 | ||||
Not really a crack climb but a mega classic nevertheless. Led p2,3-4. Rick led p1. Trad man...
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 1st Oct 2006 | ||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 9th Nov 2008 | ||||
I led pitch 2 and 4, Russ led 1, 3..!
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Dec 1998 | ||||
great climb in great position
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 19th Feb 2008 | ||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Jan 2011 | ||||
P3 is the most difficult to protect. Otherwise a great climb.
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | Sun 9th Sep 2012 | |||||
2nd pitches 1 & 3, onsight 2 & 4
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | Wed 1st May 2013 | |||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 3rd Nov 2010 | ||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 19th Sep 2012 | ||||
Got engaged on this route. Left little notes attached to each piece on the final pitch and had a rind at the top ready with a picnic. Gotta rate it mega classic. Cant remember the climbing at all. (Wish I could remember the date !)
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with Rene Provis | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 23rd May 2015 | ||||
AWESOME!! Double pitched 1-2 and 3-4 on a single rack with double small wires, could've taken double mid cams. 1:45
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with Andrew Stevenson, Susie | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 15th Aug 2015 | ||||
Great climbing, may favourite was pitch 3, not to strenuous if you bridge.
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with Benedict Armitage | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Jul 2015 | ||||
A great route all trad beautiful splitter lay back and loved the top cave belay!
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 16th Feb 2016 | ||||
My favourite moderate multipitch to date. Clean second p1 and onsight p2 and 3. Good rock, good belays and really varied. Fun morning out.
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Mon 25th Apr 2016 | ||||
Awesome!!! Lead 1st pitch, Tom did the rest.
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with John Croker | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th Apr 2009 | ||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 22nd May 2016 | ||||
Another Bluies mega classic trad route. I linked P1 and P2 into a awesome long pitch and Jenna linked P3 and P4. Trad climbing doesn't get much better. Be careful of the loose block in the start below the small tree.
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Wed 29th Jun 2016 | ||||
Yeaaa babay!! Led pitch 1 & 3
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with Alastair McDowell | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Thu 3rd Nov 2016 | ||||
Solid moves for the grade, and thoroughly enjoyable. With chimneys, cracks, and steep sections, there is something for everyone. Be careful of the loose chockstone right off the start.
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with Abi Prakash | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Fri 18th Nov 2016 | ||||
Really wicked climb with some solid moves at the start. Awesome belay spots (in the shade!). Hot day, but good climbing. Found the big blocks on 3rd pitch a bit nerve racking as didn't look too too solid. Lead 3rd pitch.
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with Dany | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 12th Aug 2017 | ||||
P1 - hard start, used the tree. nice and narrow chimney. used knees to stem/jam (very painful). end in a trad belay. personal grade (16)
P2 - very short (~10m) but tough layback corner (BD 0.75-2). trad belay under block where all the bird shit is. would have been better to climb up left another couple meters and belay next the those block flakes. personal grade (17) P3 - Crux pitch. climb left out from under block up and back into corner. easily up flake block steps. (crux) steep corner has poor feet up over bugle into poor hands and ok feet. be efficient placing gear or you willl get pumped out. up into cave for trad belay. personal grade 18? P4 - 6m traverse on sketchy ironstone. be careful/delicate on feet cause some of those flakes have big cracks are could break. (BD 0.2 - 0.75) overall an epic climb, wish there was a couple carrots at the belays. time: 2h45m |
|||||||||
17 |
★★★ Fire Bug
- with
che
1
| 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Fri 6th Jan 2017 | ||||
The first pitch, to Say Cheese anchors.
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | Tue 28th Feb 2017 | |||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Fri 5th May 2017 | ||||
The first pitch felt pretty chossy and out of character with the rest of the route. Otherwise, quite nice.
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 12th Jul 2017 | ||||
Night multi fun times linked pitches 2 and 3 what a fantastic route
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Jul 2017 | ||||
The days warm up, such a cool little jaunt. The chimney took a bit of re-orienting (probably because I suck at offwidths) but the rest of it climbed super nice. Fun moves higher up!
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 15th Oct 2016 | ||||
Awesome climb. Got a red cam stuck on the 1st pitch, Mel shouts up on second "you placed it, you'll have to free it". So... abseil back down, dangle for 10 minutes trying to wiggle it back out and mangle my fingers more than any crack climb ;o)
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Jan 2014 | ||||
Don't recall when I first did this awesome route, likely sometime in 2014
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with Ancala | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 30th Sep 2017 | ||||
Linked P1 and P2. A double set of cams would have come in handy!
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 4th Nov 2017 | ||||
17 |
★★★ Fire Bug
- with
Daniel Butler
1
lead by
Sam
2
lead by
Dan
3
lead by
Sam
4
lead by
Dan
| 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 3rd Nov 2017 | ||||
Great climbing! And the weather turned out stellar! P1 had some awkward offwidth chimney which had me grinding my way up the wall. P2 Dan took the lead and lead his first MP trad route with a trad belay! Then P3 had some navigation over some steep blocks to a scenic belay in a cave! Great day for it!
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with Lucy Rose | 63m | Blue Mountains | Sat 24th Feb 2018 | |||||
P1,P2 - Tom
P3 - Lucy
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with Harry Kadi | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 27th Feb 2018 | ||||
Another easy trad classic ticked off the list and one that I thought was very solid at the grade. Harry led a giant first pitch, climbing we are not sure how many actual pitches and finishing on top of a big block. This left the awesome overhanging cruxy section to the top out for me which was just fantastic. Highly recommend!!
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with Will Vidler | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 27th Feb 2018 | ||||
Probably solid at 17, awesome climbing on bomber rock 95% of the way! Lived up to the hype for sure!
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 19th Mar 2011 | ||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 3rd Apr 2018 | ||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with Erika, Nav | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Thu 12th Apr 2018 | ||||
Classic old school crack climbing. Chimney, through to hand crack. We climbed in two pitches. Take plenty of fist sized gear. A great day
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with Erika, Nav | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Thu 12th Apr 2018 | ||||
Classic old school crack climbing. Chimney, through to hand crack. We climbed in two pitches. Take plenty of fist sized gear. A great day
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with Mitch | 76m | Blue Mountains | Sun 20th May 2018 | |||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with Hayden Gordon Field, Ken anderson | 63m | Blue Mountains | Thu 9th Aug 2018 | |||||
YASS YASS YASS channeled the the DJ and sent this beauty on sunset linked P1 and P2. Ridiculously hard move off the ground. wish i had a #6 after the crux.
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | Mon 22nd Apr 2019 | |||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Fri 24th May 2019 | ||||
Top pitches ane mint. First pitch is terrible.
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | Fri 24th May 2019 | |||||
P1 start was a bit thuggy and loose. Great after that. Protectable chimney is a rare pleasure
P2 should be linked w P1. P3 cool steep stem corner. |
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 17th Aug 2019 | ||||
17 |
★★★ Fire Bug
- with
Sean Peters
| 76m | Blue Mountains | Fri 27th Sep 2019 | |||||
Starting moves weren't kind to my already-inflamed R shoulder - the tree getting in the way doesn't help either
Linked P1 and P2, to belay at the higher suggested ledge. With a double rack it's worth saving a couple of cams #2 and larger for the anchor. Trying to build one with the small gear I had left wasn't ideal. Did P3 in more of a dihedral style, rather than trying to finger-lock the crack. Sean linked P3&P4, which apparently added in a bunch of rope drag at the end. Since P4 is just a few metres of walking across dubious ironstone plates, Sean's suggestion of a more direct finish to the highline anchors is a good one. |
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with Michael Hallang | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 29th Sep 2019 | ||||
17 |
★★★ Fire Bug
- with
Ryan L
5
| 76m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 6th Oct 2019 | ||||
Such a nice morning out. I can see why this is a bit of a classic. Excellent climbing in a beautiful spot. The nesting falcons on the next buttress kept us company. Maybe a good idea to stay off the walls from here to wild is the wind until the end of the nesting season.
Linked p1&2 and 3&4 |
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with grace | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 10th Nov 2019 | ||||
Fun and varied climbing. Third pitch is the money pitch, interesting climbing around a flaring crack with spaced, but good gear. Pretty solid crux pitch for 17.
Climbed in two pitches, linking 1/2 and 3/4. |
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with Luisa Sugawara | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 17th Nov 2019 | ||||
Awesome climb!! Luisas first multipitch. I Lead every pitch. Old school 17crux was super tough but I got through it clean.
Didn't link any pitches because I didn't have enough cams in the right size. Definitely would recommend doubles of .75 1s and 2s.
Unfortunately we got a no 6 trango cam superstuck on P2. On the upside it will make for a bomber fixed piece for future climbers!
Be careful as there is a falcon nesting next to the big belay ledge after P2. Didn't seem to happy with us being there.
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with Josiah Hess | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 26th Nov 2019 | ||||
17 |
★★★ Fire Bug
3
17
25m
| 76m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Fri 29th Nov 2019 | ||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 12th Jan 2020 | ||||
This is such a cool climb! Good rock, plenty of good gear and compulsory jamming. I didn't climb through the chossy cave at the end and went a bit further left instead. It worked out fine. We linked pitches 1&2 and 3&4
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 12th Jan 2020 | ||||
Lead pitch 1 and linked 3 & 4.
Pitch 3 got pretty rowdy with some exciting moves.
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with Pinky | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Mon 7th Oct 2019 | ||||
linked p1+2 (seconded). p3 is the $ (lead)
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with Ben Hanley | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 10th Nov 2019 | ||||
Climbed easily as two pitches, leading P1+2 and seconding Ben for P3+4.
Ben got the money pitch (P3) on this one, steeper than you'd expect for 17!
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 30th Jul 2020 | ||||
Fun climbing.
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with Tom Bes | 61m | Blue Mountains | Average | Sun 13th Sep 2020 | ||||
I was real salty about this climb, and thus today marks the first day of the 'Strip Firebug of one of its four stars, Mr. Carter' campaign. Considering the details of the fabled first ascent, a flame war seems fitting. Let it begin...
|
|||||||||
17 |
★★★ Fire Bug
- with
J
3
17
25m
lead by
J
4
14
6m
lead by
J
| 76m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Fri 27th Nov 2020 | ||||
Great route. Linked P1/2 and P3/4.
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 76m | Blue Mountains | Thu 14th Jan 2021 | |||||
Linked first two and last two pitches.
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with Ian Kotze | 63m | Blue Mountains | Average | Fri 5th Feb 2021 | ||||
I agree with other comments saying this route is over rated and under graded.
It is a historical classic and still worth climbing but I wouldn't go out of my way.
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | Sun 7th Mar 2021 | |||||
17 |
★★★ Fire Bug
- with
Ken Thrash
| 76m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 15th Apr 2021 | ||||
17 |
★★★ Fire Bug
- with
Steffen & Saskia Bollmann
| 76m | Blue Mountains | Thu 15th Apr 2021 | |||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 22nd May 2021 | ||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 3rd Jan 2022 | ||||
Tremendous line all on bomber gear up the corner. Lived upto the hype nice and comfy belays aswell. Went into the shade by 3pm aswell 🙌.
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 17th May 2022 | ||||
17 |
★★★ Fire Bug
- with
Chris Lam, Adam Cufer
| 76m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 12th Jun 2022 | ||||
Great climb. Super stoked to lead this whole thing! Tests a range of skills, including trusting trees, a short chimney, some lovely hand jams. All the belay points were also quality destinations for taking in the view.
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with Jess C | 55m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th Jun 2022 | ||||
Felt like the first pitch was the money pitch. 3rd only really had a short section that was good before the average stuff at the top.
Linked 1/2, 3/4 and then a bit of a walk off at the top choss. Took a double rack of cams but had plenty of everything left over. Was good for the grade but not sure it deserves an ultra classic. Flake crack and Interstate are way better. |
|||||||||
17 | ★★★ Fire Bug - with Jason | 63m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Jun 2022 | ||||
17 |
★★★ Fire Bug
1
17
30m
2
17
15m
3
17
25m
4
14
6m
| 76m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 18th Dec 2022 | ||||
What a fun day out! Enjoyed the first pitch and found it very adventurous. Between a sketchy first move, trees, chimney and crack it was engaging and varied. My climbing partner told me they'd read a crag entry saying we'd need big gear for the anchor... I listen to this and saved some Cams that would have been useful only to build the anchor with small gear! Bomber anchor and an awesome spot to belay as we linked the first two pitches. By the time I started seconding the next pitch I got quite hangry... not good while climbing. First part of the next pitch I found engaging
and a stuck nut made things interesting. Backpack was getting in the way as I was trying to get out the nut but I had a mega knee bar/jam while i reevaluate life as you do mid pitch. I tried to take the backpack off and attach it to my harnesses but made matters worse... in this process a totem went flying off the cliff, it somehow survived. Once I got past this section I was able to enjoy the rest of the pitch. Overall an awesome climb and worth the stars!
|
Pitch 1: Intense, bouldery and unprotected but not too hard of a first move has one questioning what will the mystified 'crux' 50m higher up behold. Thructched up the chimney, my knees and back bracing the last of self belief I had. After somehow making it out of that coffin, climbing gets easier and involves stemming to mental recovery.
Pitch 2 linked with P1: "O boy another roof"(more like bulge). One committing layback, followed by some graceful stemming(?) and the rest is history. I have never been so happy in my life after stumbling upon a pile of shit (birds'). Made a belay at the most comfy belay ledge(with a view) ever.
Pitch 3 (surely the crux): Time to watch my partner struggle and give him words of false hope and even falser wisdom. As second, it wasn't too bad; a couple of hand jams, a couple of don't jams and use those big hold moments, finger locks and a get me out of here FIST JAM. So glad I wasn't the one on the sharp end or was I? Belay is in the meditative cave.
Pitch 4: Big smiles while traversing left on even bigger ironstone bands. Belay carrots at the top.
PS This climb was first done in volleys with hemp rope tied around the waist, a few machine nuts and metal hexes as protection. After doing this climb, if you feel like you deserve an ice cream, you probably do. But remember those tough lads and this tough climb also deserves our utter respect.