Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
25 | ★ Juice on the Loose - with Match | 12m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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24 ~25 | ★ Chip and Jinx's Canine Adventures in Conveyancing - with Match | 12m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 x Repeat attempts, not clean. Though I cruiiiiiiised the link from above the lower layback crux to the top, for whatever reason, the low-crux kicked my arse today, and felt grades harder than 24.
The finale of this puppy is wild! |
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21 | ★★ Thirty Three Years - with Match | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another repeat. A great way to access the upper tier of climbing here.
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Sat 8th Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
25 | ★★ Swinging In The Rain - with Gerry Narkowicz | 20m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Haven't been on this in years, and I was pretty chuffed to have no real troubles with the crux on it. Just a bloody great route, Jenga!
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22 | ★★ La Niña - with Gerry Narkowicz | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Still a well-conceived quest around the face.
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Thu 6th Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
24 | ★★ Driven - with Gerry Narkowicz | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. My favourite of the mid-grade routes here. Always happy to chuck a lap.
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21 | ★★ Flash Flood - with Gerry Narkowicz | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. My favourite of the easy routes. Climbed this after up-climbing and down-climbing La Nina for a ~60m easy epic.
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22 | ★★ La Niña - with Gerry Narkowicz | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Downclimbed clean for some extra pump.
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21 | ★★ Thirty Three Years - with Gerry Narkowicz | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Cruisy and oozy.
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18 | ★ Please Dry - with Gerry Narkowicz | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Clean repeat. Good for what it is.
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Wed 31st Aug 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
12 | ★ Constipation Chimney Variant Start | 19m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 laps on TRS today to access the upper ledge.
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Mon 1st Aug 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
25 | ★ Juice on the Loose - with Simmo | 12m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean Repeat. Draw retrieval lap. Still good steep fun.
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21 | ★★ Thirty Three Years - with Simmo | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Seconding Simmo to get to the upper ledge.
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24 ~25 | FA ★ Chip and Jinx's Canine Adventures in Conveyancing - with Simmo | 12m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. More funky steep stuff. Though the crux is clipping the anchor, it's less "Fist Full of Steel" and more Coolum-esque. Probably the easiest route on the upper ledge.
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Sat 9th Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★ Gavia - with Simmo | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Huzzah, the un-send! EOD repeat attempt, not clean though. Still, smashing out these 5 routes in 5 hours, I fell off because I was dead-tired (After battling through the low crux).
More sustained than it looks, and very worthwhile! |
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24 | ★★ San Pornando - with Simmo | 38m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean Repeat. Why doesn't this get done more? It's been an age since I last ticked it, and was a joy to climb straight-up today with no real problems, despite it being completely untrafficked. Rock the entire way was bomber, and even the grey-section was so clean you could eat off it.
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25 | ★★★ Kizashi - with Simmo | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean Repeat. One of my favourite 25's in the Blueys. Good training.
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23 28 | ★★★ Marxism - with Simmo | 62m, 22 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean Repeat. One of my favourite 23's in the mountains. An excellent 2nd warmup.
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23 | ★★ Reigning Steel - with Simmo | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Great warmup as always. OMG, the conditions were amazing!
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Wed 1st Jun 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
12 | ★ Constipation Chimney Variant Start | 19m | ★★ Very Good | |||
TRS to gain the upper ledge. Even in approach shoes, this is just a beautiful crack climb at the grade.
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27 | ★★ Armistice Direct - with Matt King | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just the one shot. Absolutely cruiiiiised the part shared with Armistice, but couldn't properly work out the single move to gain the razor-blade roof pocket. I "sort of" had a way of doing it, but was too scared to commit (for fear of severing a finger). Maybe there's a trick?
Fun steep jugging with much time foot-free, guarded by a single very hard move! |
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26 | FA ★★ The Kangaroolity of Women - with Matt King | 15m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. Sweet! Finally got it done despite the proper arctic conditions! Having fallen off the move to match the lip of the roof 5 times, it was an awesome feeling to keep it all together for the send.
A bit sharp, sure, but its a lot of time climbing completely horizontal at a relatively tame grade. And the boulder to gain the lip is all time rad. |
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Wed 25th May 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
25 | FA ★ Juice on the Loose - with Glen Thomson | 12m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. More hilarious steep jugging. After you leave the no-hands rest 5 bolts up, its all campus-y action to the end. Enjoy the mushroom jug!
I'd have given this 24, but the last move to the lip seems proper roof bouldering to me? Let me know if it should be downgraded. |
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Wed 18th May 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
26 | ★★ The Kangaroolity of Women (Project Paul) - with Will Vidler, Michael Moore | 15m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I'm now at 2 full days of effort on this one, and have fallen off the last move a comical number of times. I don't actually think it's that hard, I'm just quite talented at falling off it.
A bit sharp through the roof-flake section, but otherwise this is a great steep adventure, with a mega classic roof boulder to gain the jug on the lip. With any luck, this should go down soon. |
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24 | FA ★ Is it About a Bicycle? - with Will Vidler, Michael Moore | 10m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. This ended up taking the better part of two full days of effort to tick, but the moment that we had good conditions, it went down smoooooooooothe.
Short and punchy. This is the sort of steep, juggy, campus-y roof climb where you just giggle like a mad chook the whole way. |
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22 | ★★ Thai Virus - with Michael Moore, Will Vidler | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Seconding Michael and Will! A few hard moves, but great climbing and pleasant rock.
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Tue 5th Apr 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
12 | ★ Constipation Chimney Variant Start - with Will Vidler | 19m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. TRS to get to the halfway ledge. This is a really good pitch of climbing, with nice rock and interesting moves. Probably deserves more traffic as an introductory trad route.
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19 | ★★ Birthday Bolts - with Will Vidler | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Climbed to get to the upper ledge. Man, this has cleaned up really well from when I last did it.
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Sun 3rd Apr 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Golden Giles | 70m, 21 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean Repeat. Climbed out to exit the crag at the end of the day. Linked P1 and P2 as usual, and finished up P3 of Sublime and Beautiful (because its better climbing). So good. How is this not more popular?
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Sun 3rd Apr 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
21 | ★★ Thirty Three Years | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean Repeat. Seconding Gavin to get to the upper ledge.
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Thu 31st Mar 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
24 | ★★ Driven | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Lead solo to get to the upper ledge. The low crux was quite wet, which made the whole experience even more terrifying.
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Sun 27th Mar 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Armistice - with Heath Black | 14m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Kinda a retro-flash (thanks to Monty's draws, chalk, and perfect beta), but I didn't do the moves onto the headwall. If it ever stops raining, hopefully I'll improve the style by doing the last move, but regardless, it was a bloody great experience to have again (9 years after joining Monty on the first Ascent!)
Despite being a bit annoying to get to, this is certainly one of the best quality routes at Binary Cave. Crazy steep climbing in a rad position, with really interesting moves the whole way. |
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21 | ★★ Thirty Three Years - with Heath Black | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean Repeat. Seconding Monty to get to the upper tier.
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Wed 9th Mar 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
27 | ★★ Chalk Chops - with Will Vidler, Luke Yerbury, Matt King, Michael Moore, Nathan Kenny | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just the one sussing lap. Much better than I expected, and quite sustained in the first half, with 3 distinct and varied cruxes. I imagine this is nails if you're short!
I found the final face crux (before the dawdly headwall) quite hard, but the other sections very manageable. I'll definitely come back to this. |
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25 | ★ Digitalicious - with Will Vidler, Matt King, Luke Yerbury, Nathan Kenny, Michael Moore | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd shot today (and a bunch of shots over the years). In today's conditions, and with some new beta (completely the opposite of how I've approached this in the past) this felt every bit only a 25 (as opposed to the 26 it's felt previously).
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21 | ★★ Thirty Three Years - with Michael Moore, Will Vidler, Nathan Kenny, Luke Yerbury, Matt King | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Seconding Willby to get to the half-way ledge. Has one move that you have to pull on.
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24 | ★★ Driven - with Will Vidler, Matt King, Luke Yerbury | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. An excellent warmup.
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Sun 6th Mar 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
24 24 M4 | ★ Thumbs Up - with David Dearnley, Michael Moore | 92m | ★ Good | |||
P1 only. 2nd shot today. I placed a few bits of gear, but the gear up to the crux was in situ from the first lap -its not hard to place them, and you climb back to a no-hands rest, so I'm not too stressed about upping the style.
A cool boulder problem that seemed proper hard in today's disgusting wetness -made the dubious rock, and fiddly gear even more gripping. I got rather scared on my first lap and didn't commit to the crux. I brought a full rack 0.3 to 4, as well as red C3, yellow C3, and Black Totem. A few small-medium wires are useful too (and RP's if aiding through the crux to work it). The crux is well protected once you actually get the gear in, but the rest of the route (until established on the headwall) is not good gear. |
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24 | ★★ Driven - with David Dearnley, Michael Moore | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Lappin. Great!
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22 23 | ★ A Nice Day for a Disco - with David Dearnley, Michael Moore | 25m, 3 | Average | |||
Clean Repeat. Upclimbed Thai Virus, downclimbed La Nina and finished via the A Nice Day for a Disco start -all without every clipping the anchors. A 40m pitch
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22 | ★★ La Niña - with David Dearnley, Michael Moore | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean Repeat. Upclimbed Thai Virus, downclimbed La Nina and finished via the A Nice Day for a Disco start -all without every clipping the anchors. A 40m pitch
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Sat 5th Mar 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
22 | ★★ Thai Virus - with David Dearnley, Michael Moore | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Clean Repeat. Upclimbed Thai Virus, downclimbed La Nina and finished via the A Nice Day for a Disco start -all without every clipping the anchors. A 40m pitch
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Sat 8th Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
26 25 | ★ Digitalicious - with Matt Pascoe | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
3 shots. Kinda got a bit schooled by this today -weird, because I've never had this much trouble on it in the past.
Could do the crux, just couldn't link it into the lower section, and above the crux was a cruise as always. Can I blame conditions? Maaaaaybe. Super bouldery roof turn. But still pretty rad. |
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24 | ★★ Driven - with Matt Pascoe | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat x 2 to warmup. My favourite route here!
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Sat 25th Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
29 | ★★ Stelvio - with Jared Tyerman, Maxwell Cullen, Nikita Miltiadou | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 more shots. Had some good linkage on my 2nd shot today. Its kinda down to a single move I just can't stick without rope tension. Proper hard crimp bouldering at the end of 20m of more moderate climbing.
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26 | ★★ The Road Not Taken - with Jared Tyerman, Maxwell Cullen, Nikita Miltiadou | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat attempt, not clean today. Pretty happy not to have too much trouble on this 6 years after I was last on it, given how hard it was for me originally. A mega v6 arete boulder with a garbage start.
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26 | ★★ Stevia (Linkup) - with Jared Tyerman, Maxwell Cullen, Nikita Miltiadou | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd shot today, 3rd total. Sustained face climbing on a route that doesn't see much traffic. Will probably clean up nicely over time.
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Sat 4th Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
29 | ★★ Stelvio - with Match, Jared Tyerman, Maxwell Cullen | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
27ish to the 2nd last bolt, and not too bad, though obviously untrafficked and in need of some mileage to clean it up. The final 2 bolts are nails, and I couldn't touch the last move to the anchor. Could be a rad 27 to finish up the last 3m of the 25 immediately right.
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29 | ★★ Cloudheat Extension - with Match, Jared Tyerman, Maxwell Cullen | 27m | ★ Good | |||
A few cool sequences, though brick hard for 3 bolts, and with an utterly disgusting key chip (I can't fit my fingers in it). Pretty average rock. I wouldn't give it another lap.
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29 | ★ S for Stile - with Match, Jared Tyerman, Maxwell Cullen | 18m | Don't Bother | |||
The start and finish is okay face climbing. The 10m in the middle is a contender for the most glue I've ever seen on a climb, and the worst rock on bentrovato. I broke off 2 key glued holds at the crux almost immediately, so it may not even go anymore. Avoid... seriously!
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24 23 | Cipressa - with Match, Jared Tyerman, Maxwell Cullen | 18m | ★ Good | |||
2nd shot. Onsight ended on the final move to the anchors. Given how crap the 29 this finishes up is, this probably isn't too hideous a way to experience the rad ending, but damn its hard! Even 2nd shot I just barely stuck it.
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Mon 16th Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
26 | Poggio - with Jared Tyerman, Matt King | 25m | Average | |||
3rd shot. Probably 23 but for a brief (but extremely bouldery) crux. The moves are surprisingly good despite how strange the line looks, but the rock is generally pretty crap for this part of the world. Might be 25?
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27 28 | ★★★ Zoncolan - with Jared Tyerman, Matt King | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd redpoint shot today, 7th shot in total (and a few equipping laps). No particularly hard moves, but unrelenting from where it splits from Reigning Steel until you clip the anchors.
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Sat 14th Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Zoncolan - with Jared Tyerman, Matt King, Nikita Miltiadou, Maxwell Cullen, Emily Blackbourn, David Barrie | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
3 more redpoint shots. On my 1st lap today I fell off on the final hardish move. After that it got too cold, and then too sunny.
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Sat 31st Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
27 28 | ★★★ Zoncolan - with Stephen Varney, Match, Maxwell Cullen | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Close. Off at the 3rd last bolt on my 2nd shot -well above the crux, just too pumped. A hard crux, then very sustained to the top. So much crimping.
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27 26 | ★★★ Sadomastication - with Stephen Varney, Maxwell Cullen, Match | 67m | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd shot today, and quite a few laps trying it over many years. When it went, it went easily, but all the shots before it were an absolute struggle.
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Wed 14th Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Sadomastication - with Will Vidler, Ben Sanford | 67m | ★★ Very Good | |||
3 more shots. Struggling in the arctic wind, but on my 2nd shot I linked to the 2nd last bolt (relatively easy terrain) and dry-slipped off (thinking I had it in the bag)! Third shot I was just too cold. Snatching defeat from the jaws of victory, right?
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Sat 10th Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Golden Giles - with Jared Tyerman, Matt King, Nikita Miltiadou | 70m, 21 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat as a giant pitch for an EOD warm-down. Was kinda like onsighting with no chalk on the route, its length rendering individual moves unmemorable, and the time since I last lapped it.
Definitely only 24 -even as a giant 60m pitch- and generally pretty chilled slab/face climbing with lots of stances, and a few exciting (but safe) runouts. Why does no one climb this? |
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25 | ★★★ Kizashi - with Jared Tyerman, Matt King, Nikita Miltiadou | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat attempt as a warmup - not clean today: Not pumped, not hard, just froooooooozen.
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26 | ★★★ Sadomastication - with Jared Tyerman, Matt King, Nikita Miltiadou | 67m | ★★ Very Good | |||
3 shots. FINALLY came up with a way of doing the crux reliably, and never fell off the top at all. Now just to link it.
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Sun 27th Jun 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Vespasian's Wall - with Will Vidler | 58m, 20 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat attempt, not clean today. Still not a huge fan, as the route would be gr23 but for 2 moves. Fell off at the crux a bunch on the retro-flash until I remembered my sequence, then it was easy. Sustained thin face climbing to a briefly diabolical crimp crux.
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25 | ★★★ Kizashi - with Will Vidler | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. Great to smash this one out straight-up. Felt easy and pleasant. Excellent technical climbing.
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23 | ★★ Reigning Steel - with Will Vidler | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat.
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Tue 26th Jan 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
26 | FA ★★ Truth Lies Somewhere Inbetween - with Will Vidler, Stephen Varney, Jared Anderson | 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. Gave me more trouble than I expected, taking 3 days of effort for the send (the most time I've spent on a 26 in years). Could be the hideous conditions of late, perhaps? Might even be 25 in good conditions, when the face crux isn't all spooge. A very sporty/gymnastic route. Climbed using 2 bolts, but its still quite risky.
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21 | ★★ Flash Flood - with Stephen Varney | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. My favourite of the easy routes here, and more sustained than most in the cave. Just good fun.
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Sun 11th Oct 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Microdermabrasia
- with
Rob Medlicott
| 85m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Decided to do the full Multi (since its the only one I haven't done on this wall). As a "multi" its probably a 1-star experience (most of the value being from the first pitch), and I definitely don't recommend doing the "mantle top-out walkoff" nightmare.
P1 - Clean Repeat (originally onsight). P2 - 2nd shot. 1 move from the onsight! I tried so bloody hard. Not a drop of chalk on this thing. The last 5m before the ledge is extremely intense techo crimping, but otherwise its fairly easy. P3 - Clean Repeat (originally onsight) - Sections of good climbing, but lots of crap rock to degrade the experience. The crux on this is a proper hard reach. Would be interesting to see a shorty on it. |
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Thu 16th Apr 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Iliad Buttress | ||||||
24 | ★★ Cynics United | 82m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Reclimbed with a view to ticking the crux pitch - which I did! Crazy windy today, which added some extra spice to all the steep thugging.
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Wed 25th Mar 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
28 |
★★★ Marxism P2
1
2
28
40m
| 40m, 22 | ★★ Very Good | |||
P2 only. TRS inspection. Essentially an awesome 24 from the ledge until you're at the same height as the Guillotine P2 anchors (one of the best linkups around would be P1 linked to this point; there is currently a bail biner there) then 6m of heinous climbing on bad rock (amounting to 6 moves), to an easier but awesome finish. Wouldn't recommend this as a "28" pitch, but would recommend the foreshortened version as a linkup (similar to doing Guillotine P1-P2 but harder and better!).
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24 | ★★ Golden Giles | 70m, 21 | ★★ Very Good | |||
TRS. Clean repeat. Cruised this as a giant 70m pitch for a warmup. Makes a good warmup Fingery start pitch to a mega slightly steep face middle pitch with loads of cool moves. 70m just flies by!
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Wed 18th Mar 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
28 | ★★ The Old Sleepy Horse | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A pretty radical sustained route with growing intensity. Would be a hard 26 until literally the last move before the easy finish, which is nails and kinda awkward. With the glued-in crux hold at the start of this ( The Violent Young Pony ) having snapped off, the entire start sequence is much more strenuous. I had to work hard to retro-flash the 24 placing draws.
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25 | ★★ Gavia | 20m | ★ Good | |||
I was going to give this Very Good (and it probably is climbing-wise if you finish up Exile or Poggio), but the mess of bolts at the top of this to force a 3m contrived new finish just pisses me off.
The moves until the 2nd last bolt (ie. where the debacle begins) are actually really good, quite sustained, and follow a vague line of least resistance. Onsighting all of that was hard work with all the crux-chalk washed off. |
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23 |
★★★ Microdermabrasia P1
1
23
30m
| 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Seconding Goshen rather than trying to clean the route on loweroff. Makes a great warmup, and is a proud line up an obvious feature.
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Sat 14th Mar 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
25 | ★ Digitalicious - with James vilimaa | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I was psyched to get the crux of this sorted and repeatable on my first lap today (again: a bit of an old nemesis)… only to break out he #PuntLife and bungle the easier moves of the sequence on link. Next time, Gadget.
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25 | ★★ Binary Neil - with Ben Jenga, Mitch Perkins, Jared Anderson, James vilimaa, Josh Mackenzie | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good to finally get this one done, as it's been something of a "half-arsed nemesis" of mine. With the beta, it didn't feel too bad, though the difficult bit only lasts the first 4 bolts. Some proper good rock at the crux.
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24 | ★★ Driven - with Ben Jenga, Mitch Perkins, Jared Anderson, Josh Mackenzie, James vilimaa | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. A bloody great route, and a great warmup!
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Wed 19th Feb 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Microdermabrasia - with Tom Collins | 85m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. EOD Top-rope lap (all but the final 2 bolts) from Zoncolan's anchors after cleaning that route. Good fun feature-climbing.
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28 | ★★★ Zoncolan - with Heath Black, Tom Collins | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good progress and good linkage. Still no idea how to clip the crux bolt on link (skip skip?). Definitely need some icy conditions for this one. Surprisingly sustained.
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26 | ★★★ Kizmastication (linkup) - with Tom Collins, Heath Black | 27m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sent easily 2nd shot today (it's amazing what some good conditions will do for you). Makes Kizashi substantially harder, and avoids the hideous crux on Sadomastication… Sure, it's a linkup, but its the best bits of both routes!
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23 | ★★ Reigning Steel - with Tom Collins | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. This route has definitely come to grow on me as a worthy warmup for this wall.
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Sat 25th Jan 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Kizmastication (linkup) - with Harry Kadi | 27m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Not a good idea to get on this in 35 degree full summer sun, but it was still fun for an EOD finale. The best parts of two routes combined.
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26 | ★★★ Sadomastication - with Harry Kadi | 67m | ★★ Very Good | |||
All of this felt fine (even the upper section was easier than I remember) with the exception of that one particular move. I can't touch the dyno method, so its back to the pocket method I go... Craaaaaazy cruxy climbing.
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Sat 25th Jan 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
25 | ★ Windtalker - with Harry Kadi | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd shot. Not a drop of chalk on this one, but probably very chalksight-able. Actually pretty good, certainly no worse than most of its neighbours. From the chossy ledge up (essentially after the first 5m) is all class, and reasonably sustained. Definitely deserves more traffic.
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21 | ★★ Flash Flood - with Harry Kadi | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Still my favourite warmup here. Featuring REAL, ACTUAL moves and sequences!
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Sun 17th Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
26 25 | ★ Digitalicious - with Heath Black, Viona Young, Jenna Brady | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Huzzah, I still can't tick this. Hehe. 2 shots. I can do all the moves, but damn that crux is brutally burly. The rest of it is quite cruisy, though.
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24 25 | ★★ Taxi Driver - with Heath Black, Viona Young, Jenna Brady | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Huzzah, I finally ticked my old nemesis. Interestingly, the move I struggled with on link today was a bunched face move immediately after what I remember being the crux. Weird. Great, but very cruxy around the roof-turn.
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22 | ★★ Thai Virus - with Heath Black | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Clean repeat. I remember the crux of this being very tough when I first ticked it, was a cruise today, even going more direct than Neil does. Much more fun than I remember.
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22 | ★★ La Niña - with Heath Black | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Awesome. A great warmup.
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Sun 3rd Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Reigning Steel - with Stephen Varney | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. EOD warm-down. Up-climbed and down-climbed the entire route clean on lead for added challenge.
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28 | ★★★ Zoncolan - with Stephen Varney | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 investigatory laps. Surprisingly good, sustained technical face climbing, marred only by glue-coated holds and a few very contrived first bolts. Definitely worth a few more laps.
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Sun 3rd Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Theory of Negativity Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Theory of Negativity - with Stephen Varney | 22m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. Just a bloody great route, probably one of the best at the grade in the Blueys.
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Wed 9th May 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ The Sublime and the Beautiful - with Will Vidler | 75m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean Repeat. Led P1, Clean 2nd P2 & P3 (linked). There's a reason that 3/5ths of the logged ascents on this are Dogs: the crux is bloody nails, and the key holds just keep getting smaller. A weird but pleasant first pitch. P2 is defined by a pair of cruxes in the V2/V3 category (one right after the other) surrounded by about gr19 climbing, and the 3rd pitch is easy jug hauling. Enjoyable, but serves as the very definition of a cruxy Blueys route.
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24 | ★★ Golden Giles | 70m, 21 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean Repeat. Top Rope Solo lap as a giant 60m pitch as a warmup in the sun. Today, the 2nd pitch felt harder than the first (I'd almost say 23 first pitch, 24 second pitch), but either way, it was enjoyable. Not a classic, but continuous engaging technical face climbing.
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Sun 6th May 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Theory of Negativity Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Theory of Negativity | 22m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. A great warmup, and a route that has cleaned up spectacularly in the 7 years since I last did it. Thoroughly fun.
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Sun 6th May 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Andy's Area | ||||||
21 | ★★ There's a Tear in There | 10m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Surprisingly good. Climbs like an untrafficked Tianjara Falls route (in terms of rock quality), which isn't necessarily a bad thing. A few engaging moves, and steeper than it looks. Stick to the arete religiously for added fun.
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Sun 6th May 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls | ||||||
24 | ★★ The Sweetest Dream - with Heath Black | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Very easy for the grade (23?) but the admin-factor is a mission. The gymnastic steep climbing and exposed position is cool, but the rock is grainy razor-blades, in need of a healthy dose of hammering to get rid of what is -clearly- gonna go if anyone pulls on it. We accessed by a roped traverse from below "weakened worriers" on Bentravato, then up the start of P3 of Oedipus to the belay (via a carrot bolt (bolt plate!), #4 Cam and Giant Wire (substitute with Small-medium hex), and to clean we back-jumped the entire route and down-climbed Oedipus.
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21 20 | ★ Hyperglycemic Hallucination - with Heath Black | 60m, 18 | Don't Bother | |||
P1 & P2 (linked) - As a route this didn't need to be bolted (it's not a line, or great rock, or going anywhere), but it's made worse by utterly no cleaning off the oodles of shale and choss, or any scrubbing of the very mossy grey rock, and catastrophic amounts of spilled epoxy everywhere. The first bolt on this route gets my award for "worst bolt I've ever seen in over 2000 different climbed routes", with basically everything wrong about it, held in by -what I can only assume- was a water-bomb filled with yellow epoxy lobbed in its general direction from the ground. Possibly the worst thing I've ever climbed at Sublime Point. Stay away... really, really far away. No seriously.
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Sun 31st Dec 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls | ||||||
20 21 | ★★ Smack My Pitch Up | 120m | ★★ Very Good | |||
With Scotty Wearin. Onsight P1 and P3 & P4 (linked), Clean 2nd P2 and P5. Though the rock quality isn't particularly spectacular, I thought that the climbing was better than I expected, with a few particularly memorable sequences amongst pleasant easy face climbing. Linking the pitches made for an enjoyable marathon with negligible rope drag (by skipping every 2nd bolt).
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Sat 4th Mar 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
26 R | ★★ Thumbs Out (Thumbs Out! (Project)) | 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
3 shots. This time attempting a Send in hideously bad conditions. Still using only 2 bolts on the entire route, the rest on gear. Linked to mid crux (on the face), but don't have the finger strength (after all my time off) or the conditions to link the final moves of the crux at the moment. Seems easier if you're short (due to a really good high-footer that locks you into the wall on these moves), but feels 26ish to me. Maybe hard/tricky 25 is more correct?
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24 | ★ Survival Day | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat repeat. Warm up.
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Sun 26th Feb 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
25 | ★★ Binary Neil | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Yep, even after all these years, I still can't do the move to get OUT of the cave. The "conventional" crux is challenging, but not TOO bad for me, but my legs are too long for the normal "kneebar" approach to the cave, and my arms are too short to do the span to the holds out of the cave. Never stuck the sequence once today, despite a fair bit of effort.
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This is my favourite of all the routes on the upper ledge.