Nodes in Bulahdelah

A sign banning rock climbing in the state forest (pretty much everything south of the lookout ) has appeared in late December 2014. And the north area is on private property.

Climbs are listed from right to left. The actual beehive is located in the middle on dead tree right against the wall.

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Climb the easy angled buttress left of the tree/ chimney on the north face of the buttress

The route just left of chimney all on carrots (5). No anchor

Up on vibrant orange rock on ring bolts. Anchors way back on block to rappel from or loweroff last bolt

The route on the arete, past carrot to gain large bucket at ring. Then head up and left to tricky crux moves to large flatter. Head straight up on good edges to good undercling at lower offs.

Straight up to 3rd bolt ( top rope this ) and then finish as for GN

Average protection for a trad route, past scoop to jug and trend up into mossy corner to shared anchor

Past 4 RBs, the third with maillon, and one FH to new anchors. No trad gear needed any longer.

Just right of chimney on east face of buttress. Has been retro bolted with consent of FA. From 1st bolt head up and gain sneaky undercling to make 3rd clip easier. Balance move with high right foot gets you to the left side of break in mini roof. Old school shenanigans unlock the move across to the right and then up onto easier ground. Head up and right, some longer draws might help avoid a little rope drag on the way to the anchors above Fairway. A little painful to clean.

Offwidth and chimney up to single bolt on left wall.

The route just left of chimney trending left at top to shared anchors with T

From ledge hard crimps and a delicate move to get to 2nd bolt. Easier moves into vertical seam, then up and slightly left to hanging block. Bouldery crux can be done 2 ways, then easier ground to anchors

Tricky start up to good jug, then bouldery moves up and right past 2nd bolt to gain large scoop. Heady moves leaving scoop and a tough clip to gain slanting seam up and right. Use Trotters Delight lower offs.

2 FHs with rusty bolts squeezed in between routes. Would probably be best removed.

Hard moves off ledge through horizontal then up to shared anchors with SB.

The route on ring bolts closest to beehive tree. Up black water streak trending right to share finish with Yellow Box

Crack close to beehive tree. Either crack to start works.

First climb up the ramp from beehive tree. Undercut start right of ferny crack- boulder up then traverse left towards cracked arête.

First bolted route to left of crack on FHs. Bouldery undercut start trending right at 4th bolt, then stepping left above roof eft to tricky face moves. DRB

Start 2m L of route on FHs. Up through small overlaps to DBB

Start up alcove placing small gear then through overlap. More easily to ledge and short chimney then belay from ridge.

2m left of grasstree that leans against cliff, and just left of trad crack. Up and right at start to second bolt then follow bolts slightly left to DBB.

Come in from left passing single bolt that is hard to see. About 6 other bolt holes exist on this line with poor gear options. Unclear if abandoned project. Can be toproped now from anchors of PH.

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

From near top of ramp step right passing 6 bolts with very small cam placements possible. Follows a blunt areteto the left of a groove visible high. Top out and belay on boulders

Start at ring bolt below roof at upper left end of ramp. Poor bolt placements, a medium cam needed and belay on boulders. Much easier if taller.

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

The rising leftwards ramp with overhanging routes. Two further levels exist above the ramp

Head up through the Overhang past the Golden Wall to saddle. Climbs listed L to R from saddle around to vertical orange wall under the highest part of the mountain.

Start down from the saddle on the western side at undercut handcrack. Up the crack

AT the saddle there is a chimney, up chimney crawling under chockstone at top.

Left leaning crack and gully system. Go left up corner to top out

Start as for UCD but go right up gully at she-oak.

Climb wall and groove above small cave, a few metres left of Shattered Dreams to Double Ring Bolt belay.

On the orange wall at a left diagonal seam. Up to ledge then right before back left to anchors. Best to abseil.

Up the blocky orange rock in the centre of the wall

Start at right side of cave in centre of wall, past one bolt up groove and crack to overhung finish. (Can belay off flagpole bollard)

Start as for HM, then take left leaning diagonal across wall to share finish with T.

Up the corner at the right hand end of the wall/ ledge. At top veer left.

The middle tier accessed above the overhang

Shared start going left to over bulge and up head wall to left lower off.

Shared start up slab trending right to tough finish.

The overhanging ramp

Diagonally right through slight cave and straight up (crux) to the second set of lower offs. Rebolted & Extension added 2004 - Wilde/Jefferson

Private property. Climbers have permission to climb but need to respect the area.

Private property. Climbers have permission to climb but need to respect the area.

Just left of Foghorn, reach the start jug off the top of the boulder. Follow fixed hangers up and right into cavelets. Then traverse left past ring to kneebar rest. Clip another ring then a tough final move to the anchors.

Private property. Climbers have permission to climb but need to respect the area.

Private property. Climbers have permission to climb but need to respect the area.

Private property. Climbers have permission to climb but need to respect the area.

The area between the base of the ramp and the gully up to the Beehive

Starts on ledge at base of ramp up to DBB at right facing corner

Climb 5/6 of Haasnoot been done, then go across left and up staying on good clean rock. Long quick draw length required around the corner and for the last bolt runner of Haasnoot been done.

Starts 2m left of Sarah's Climb. Up into the first cave, then tough move to second cave and out pumpy finish. Fixed hangers.

Crux is a pumper @ 3rd ring. On upper tier starting above handlebar route. Trends initially right and then left to anchors. Some poor rock towards the top. 60m rope won't get you and your belayer to the ground.

Start at the top of Sarah's Climb. 5 rings and 2 U-bolt loweroff. Crux from 2nd ring to 5th.

Originally graded 22!! Start in the small alcove, up the U bolts to finish below the upper wall. Try not to drift to far right.

Start just left of the tree, 2m to the right of Sarah's Climb. Up trending left to halfway anchors. Continue up on the fixed hangers on a tough move off the ledge.

Step R from anchors on ramp and up through roof to easier ground. Shares anchors with PATB.

Start just to right of tree at base of wall and to left of crack. Up following fixed hangers crossing diagonal ramp. Extend draws to avoid rope drag. Up and left after taking weakness through roof, to shared anchors with AC.

A way of access to upper tier. Can be soloed though rock a bit soapy. Some trad gear helps. Start right of large tree at hand sized crack then left up ramp.Go past anchors above SF, and continue to Sky Pilot.

Start as for MB but go left after second bolt. Take care with flakes. Shares anchors with MB

Its not the first route, but definitely an early one. The striking fist sized right slanting corner- crack. Clean orange rock half way up.

Line of fixed hangers up the groove on the wall left and down from the Bee Hive Wall. New lower off anchors.

Up the crack right of meat and beer to join that route at its second last bolt and shared anchors. Some small gear needed. Possible not to use bolts where routes join if you are a purist.

Private property. Climbers have permission to climb but need to respect the area.

THIS AREA IS ON PRIVATE PROPERTY!!!

Climbing in the cave is quite unique. Some love it, others hate it. The rock can be sharp and the holds hard to find. Most of the routes are super steep and can be climbed in heavy rain. Beware of beehives.

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Starts on the outside of the cave. Batman to first bolt then climb past first set of anchors to second.

As for J Wilde route, but boulder the start to first set of anchors. Just guessing at grade.

Start in the back of the cave, out to rooflet and up via interesting holds to the sting in the tail and double bolt anchor.

Fixed hangers and rings. Starts 2m right of Vulcanian, 2m left of Toast, out independent line to join toast at it's last bolt.

Start as for Toast, clipping it's first ring, then head out left, out pipers new line to finish at Toast anchor... or keep going!

Start 5m from edge of cave, there is a hex bolt low if needed to start. Out horizontal roof, then directly up as angle eases to lower off.

One for the budding pumpers. Climb Toast, then head straight up past 4 RB's to start of a diagonal ramp. Route then moves up right along ramp for 2 RB's. From here blast straight up and around a cruxy bulge to anchors with wire gate lower-offs. 12 rings in total.

Undercut start 2m right of Toast. Trends up and right to 2 ring bolt lower off. 6 ring bolts & 2 more 4 lower off.

Better rock and steeper moves can be found in this upper section of Troglodyte. Climb left then up forever from the anchors of pitch 1. Linking both pitches from the ground may not have been done yet?

PYP into second pitch of Troglodyte, continuing into the end of COH

Climb PYP to the plonka, then go left to join troglodyte below the anchors of pitch 1. Climb 2 bolts of trog pitch 2 before climbing up and right past a fixed hanger to independent anchors (seized wiregates). Shenanigans to avoid terrible rope drag.

Up the overhanging, leftward trending wall past purple coloured sheild, up to the "plonka" at the semi-rest then trough another overhang to lower off in cave.

Climb PYP, past it's crux. Then head hard left through small stalactite, steep but good holds. Joins in the last part of Troglodyte second pitch. A number of the draws need to be extended more than you'd think to make life easier.

An endurance resistance monster! Climb "Pull ya Plonka" then continue along the massive overhang to finish 5m left of the black leg anchors. Take long draws and about 4x 600mm slings

Climb Sugar Monster to anchors, then continue out to the left to finish as for Creature of Habit.

Starts with the ring on the sloping lip. Right of Pull ya,head out towards the centre of the cave, tricky move under the lip. Head up towards the pink threader. Easiest of the 23's here!

Prob the easiset warm-up in the cave. Starting 2m left of black leg, mantle up and traverse out left to the edge of the cave.

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

A great introduction to climbing in the cave. Finishes on the obvious laydown ledge. Historical name restored.

Start on the high pedestal 2m to right of lie-down cave on BLM. 2 bolts and 2 moves to the cave. Continue to anchors on BLM. May be the same as 'BLM Alternative start' 25M1 except it's not aid, and as it's technically a bit easier than Legless Miner gave it 24, even though one is still doing the crux of BLM (last bolt and clip).

A great line taking in the whole roof. Has a small cave a 1/3 of the way. Start at the back left hand end of cave, follow rings to first cave, then step out around stalactite and contine on what seems like a never ending roof.

Start on the small pedestal as for BLM alt start, head out left between stalactite and small cave, head out staying just right of "Sugar Monster"

Starts at the Fresh Gording ledge and links up with Black Leg Miner to finish on the same anchors.

Legless miner, continuing into COH

Start in the very back of cave, some sharp holds lead to some funky knee baring and roof moves.

Prob the longest route in the cave. Sent in classic Jase style with about 25 knee bars, maybe a few less for regular folks! Start by climbing Flesh Gording, then keep traversing left past anchors of Long Wall Mining and Sugar Monster, going all the way out to the lip (day light) of the whole cave. Be careful, there is a lot of bird guano and dust up towards the end and some lose rock.