Nodes in Bulahdelah

From the car park walk back down the road and onto the Ted Baker track as for Billy Woods wall. Turn left up the hill about 40 metres before Billy Woods wall and cross the ridge through a small notch buttress is immediately in front of you. Routes are described from lowest to highest (left to right)

Up slopey arete near large tree at left hand end of wall. Shares anchor with left bolted crack.

The left hand crack, trending left at the top ledge. Care getting to 5th bolt as it is run out- or take a finger sized cam.

Start up left hand crack, taking the right crack after the 4th bolt to the anchors of Cryptostylis, needs medium gear.

The right hand steep crack

Starting down low, left of the main wall. Up boulder to gain the wall above. Up the face just left of the arete. Anchors are over the back and may require abseil to get back down.

The fixed hangers on the left arete of the upper wall. Access by scrambling through cleft next to DendroKing then dropping down through leaf litter to climb carefully onto ledge. Belay off bolts with shackles.

First bolt can be clipped from coming in from the high right side with care, but the climb starts down underneath on the ground. Scramble up the slab section below first bolt to ledge. Bouldery moves to get off the ledge to gain the blunt flake. 2nd clip is a little tenuous, then head slightly up and right to via a tricky sequence to get to 3rd clip, Techie moves out left to get to a balancy 4th clip, then up slightly right to get to a very hard clip at 5th draw. On pumped arms head up and left to gain vague but good flake, up and back right to get to 6th bolt. Easier ground to Cold shut and U bolt anchor.

As for SOABD for first 3 bolts. Punchy move up & right to gain good rail and a slight stance. Pump on up using small edges to tricky redpoint crux move at last bolt. Skip or clip? After last bolt head across right to Talc anchors. Classic climbing

Awkward to get over inital buldge then reach out left to clip 3rd bolt from ledge, then punch hard!

Same start for the Fridge Thing, then awkwardly step left on ledge to 2nd bolt, use a long draw. Gingerly reach up to good jug at 3rd bolt. Crux can be done two ways, knee dislocator or double crimper. 4th ring was added after 1st ascent as a dogger. From 5th bolt head up slightly left then up to ring and then head up and right into diagonal crack system. Tricky moves and hidden holds lead to last ring. Step left and then straight up to anchors.

Stick clip hanger from the ground, bouldery move to gain a good ramp. Easy moves up and right to ledge, then step up and across left for a few tricky moves to get underneath “the Fridge”. Punchy move to get onto the Fridge, then step across left and up to bolt, easier moves to anchors.

Arete on ring bolts.

Re-bolted line of ringbolts just left of the chimney. A good introduction to climbing at Bulahdelah

Step off block onto arete then up flake and left to anchors

The rightmost route on the the west facing wall, starting from the ground. Up easy crack to ledge then a hard move over bulge to the right of flake

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

The route on the left wall of the left alcove. Come in from left of first bolt- original starting hold disappeared. Finish at pocket above anchors.

Up the strenuous overhanging layback on bolts. Shares anchors with Baramu

On the right wall of the second alcove, just to the left of the green moss. Technical pocket pullling to bouldery finish

On left edge of right ward alcove. Up short vertical wall to juggy slab. Awaiting a proper clean

Two bolt variant start up crimpy wall into seam of Miraculous Keys.

Start as for Billy the Kid for first bolt- up ramp then step left into seam. Continue up seam to spicy finish

Up ramp in back of alcove to step into seam. Above second bolt traverse right to hanging well hammered block then sustained face moves up to blunt arete at anchors

A little chossy but bolts keep you safe! Up the back of the right alcove to anchors on the left wall. Bridging and the odd jam. The 2nd bolt is placed in an odd position due to suspect rock, but if you reach down and unclip the first bolt the rope runs well.

The left route on the short wall as you come down the access gully. Through roof trending right to shared anchors

The right route on the short wall close to fig tree, up crack and then up wall, run out to anchors. If you scare easily suggest you do the other route first and leave a really long draw on the anchors.

Just before reaching the saddle above the mountain car park scramble through a gap between the roofcapped wall and a block then contour around into the gully with a steep cavernous wall

Pitch 1: Up Mustang to belay at base of corner, 10m. Pitch 2: up overhanging corner, pull lip to tree. You could try abseiling but probably safer to continue up vegetated gully and walk back via bumble buttress

The left bolted route that heads left across slab to near corner, then back right up steep wall to right side of large cave

Starting in the cave on the left, up the steep wall trending right to a rather premature finish at the double rings of Mustang..

Start in the cave, straight out the steep wall.

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

The saddle above the mountain car park.

Up weakness at left side of crag starting at old rusty bolt in wall. At ramp head steeply up on jugs stepping right to anchors

Step onto ramp then up faint corner trending right to anchors

Continue up ramp until under bolts through black bulging rock

Through roof scoops

Through roof crack

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

unreal route

powerfull, called bentho the taxi slayer

corner crack (bolted)

To get here turn to face the cutting at the car park. Go straight up the steep hill on the right side of the quarry on a faint track, cross the saddle in the ridge and veer left and up to the 'Bumble Buttress' wall. 'Wildey on Wheels' is to the climbers left of the 'Baby pinnacle', 'Man Mountain' and NATATDT are in a gully behind the pinnacle, and the other routes on a wall to the right. Climbs are described left to right. If you continue past a large burnt stump for 20 metres you will be at the 'No Cams wall' with 'Trickey Dickey' being the first route on the arete. Drop down for 'Look Mum No Cams'.

10 metres right of No Cams wall, overhung with a thin diagonal seam being its only feature.

On the left side of The Dreaming Wall, up the slab to exposed moves up to lower off.

Project Chris

Start as for Ya Dreaming but finish up TWUC.

Right of The Dreaming Wall, just left of the big tree. Up thin start to an interesting finish below the upper wall. Lower off as for Dreaming Project.

20 metres to the right of bumble buttress on a separate wall

Start just left of the burnt out tree stump, tough move to start, then up and left onto arete to lower off.

After the 6th bolt on Trickey Dickey step right past one bolt to anchors of route to the right

Start below burnt out stump, up the thin steep wall past 5 fixed hangers.

Up the middle of the wall, thin at start.

Thin climbing to finish right of the large stag horn. Some interesting small and slopey holds.

Start next to the small fig 4m left of the "look mum no cams" start. Up past two fixed hangers to join LMNC to top.

climb obvious bolted crack. Careful at 3rd bolt.

Clip first bolt of LMNC, then head straight up following fixed hangers to lower offs.

To get here go straight up the hill on the right side of the quarry from the mountain car park, cross the saddle in the ridge and veer left and up to the wall. Wildey on Wheels is to the climbers left of the baby pinnacle, Man Mountain and NATATDT are in a gully behind the pinnacle, and the other routes on a wall to the right. Climbs are described left to right.

Short and crimpy little climb at the left end of wall.

Starts 10m left of baby pinnacle on main wall. Through bulges passing 2 RBs to ledge then up following bolts to slightly tricky finish and DBB..

Bouldery start then up front of pinnacle to anchors

at base of gully, on small pinnacle. Common anchors on top of pinnacle

On small pinnacle closest to MM, need to rap off.

The steep white overhung rock behind the baby pinnacle

Start 2m left of MM, up the crack on gear.

The overhanging blunt arete in the gully opposite the pinnacle. Easier if you are tall.

The left hand end of the big slab. Fixed hangers.

Climb 4m right of arete, up fixed hangers.

3rd route on the buttress. Care clipping second bolt if short. Has own anchors.

Up past 3 rings to rejoin TDWP at it'3rd last hanger.

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Some long quality sport routes on the south western side of the mountain. Afternoon sun through the trees.

Start up billy woods then follow the line of bolts out left.

Long and pumpy. Consistent climbing up the left end of wall.

Starting on the smooth white rock 2m right of billy. Straight up the vague crack and pump it out to top.

Traverse left for a few moves then straight up wall. Ring bolts.

Start down low and then up a few moves and up to the right.

Easier moves to spike then head right on desperately thin holds to sloper on bulge and up to anchors on Chewbacca. 5 Fhs.

Start at the low belay bolt then straight up wall.

3m right of Chrispy, up the slab to a good stance, then up the steep wall.

The ever steepening route on the right of the slab. Follow the flake to start then traverse left to anchors.

At the top of the stairs on the Ted Baker Track

Climb the RH line on the pinnacle, either starting from the right (original) or climbing the seam directly (bouldery but no change in grade) to the first bolt. Steep moves relent to groove and face, with anchors on the left.

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Hard fingery and sharp start into thin crack then straight up the wall to common anchors

Climb twin cracks on the NW side of the pinnacle, finishing along the ramp that leads to the double bolt belay of Hilda.

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

trad