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North Wall - Chicken Wall All Sport climbing 3 routes in area

Grade context: AU
Photos: 1
Ascents: 1

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Description

Big, steep and mostly undeveloped. Probably the greatest potential for hard routes in the country. Apparently the rock quality improves the higher you get.

Being on the North side of the gorge, you have to allow time to rap off after doing these routes then walk out.

Access issues inherited from Bungonia Gorge

The park is occasionally closed for feral animal control. Check here: http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/alert/state-alerts

Approach

45-60 min

Further downstream of the buttress climbed by 'Olympus Mons' is a yellow wall about 60m uphill. I.e. 'Chicken Wall' is the eye catching yellow wall on the righthand end of the 'North Wall'.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Three pitches of epic hard climbing - bolted ground up. Starts as for Finger Lickn' Good but continues up and left.

60m (27)
55m (32) Is this the longest hard pitch in Oz?
40m (?) The crux pitch?

The left line. Sustained blocky edges and sidepulls with a rooflet in the middle. A bit dirty but good climbing. Needs more traffic!

FA: Andrew Bull, 1999

The right line. 11 bolts.

FA: Rob LeBreton, 1999

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