The route is set up so it can be rapped in from the top with DRBB the whole way, bring 2 x 70m for this. It will provide access to a large section of this wall that has lots of rock. The 1st pitch and pitch12 (rap in).have been sent and are ok to climb, but rest is a closed project. Will be 12 pitches, equaling Red Supergiant one of the longest routes in the Gorge. Pitches 2-11 are currently being cleaned and bolted so stay off please.
20m (22) Start as for Pulsar for first couple of metres then step right to smaller right facing flake and U-bolt. Up flake and wall above to small ledge and belay/rap anchors. This pitch is all bolts. 6 in total.
40m () Bolted finger crack weakness just right of Pulsar corner then slab and back into trad protected finger crack to under bulge. Over bulge with difficulty (bolts) and up technical slab to right leading flake feature and juggier wall to belay ledge on the left and rap belay/rapp anchor. 11 bolts on this pitch.
30m () Straight up slab above then trend left to arete. Up this onto wall with a hard move back left at the jugs and poor rock. A fixed sling helps a hard to clip bolt. Finish up juggy wall to large ledge and belay/rap anchors.
15m () Easy slab up and left to base of monster tufa and headwall.
40m () Stem up monster tufa right trending right then L to hanging belay, mega pitch. Will be hard!
15m () From hanging belay head up and R to ledge
20m () Easy crack then chossy easy corner going up and right to large dirty ledge. All bolts.
40m () Up nice grey and orange rock to belay on small ledge below crack and corner.
15m () Follow crack and corner to step up L at the top of corner to a sloping ledge and DRBB.
20m (22-24?) Steep face on big holds and scooped pockets to ledge and DRBB.
20m (23-25?) Some awkward chimneying and strenuous moves abound
20m (23) Small holds to start on the arete leads to some stemming up the R leading corner to the top and the final moves of bliss to the top anchors MB, LD 21 June 2015.
5m (1) Best to stay roped and sling around a tree to keep things safe.
Aug 2014 | Route setter: Matt Brooks, Neil Monteith & Leith Dawes |
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11 Oct 2014 | First ascent: Neil Monteith & Richard Sonnerdale (pitch 1 only) |
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?? | Matt Brooks |
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