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Coffs Harbour
The Glenreagh area (about 45 minutes NW of Coffs Harbour) offers an extensive sandstone escarpment with more than ten established crags and a variety of climbs from cracks to steep sport routes. |
Glenreagh
The Glenreagh area (about 45 minutes NW of Coffs Harbour) offers an extensive sandstone escarpment with more than ten established crags and a variety of climbs from cracks to steep sport routes. |
Glenreagh |
Fort Knox
The Largest concentration of routes and great rock in the Coffs Area |
Glenreagh Fort Knox |
Dusk Wall
A short, slabby wall close to the parking lot. Good beginner area. |
Glenreagh Fort Knox Dusk Wall |
14
Medicine Wheel
Far right side. Start 4 R of O climb up corner. Anchor long slings 2 boulders. |
15
Rock People
2m R of O.start right of blackboy. Small run out at the end. last break too dirty for gear. Anchor tree and boulder. Long slings. |
16
Othila
Middle of wall . Start above blackboy climb up to base of tree. Tree anchor |
15
Eagle Clan
Left of Othila. |
Glenreagh Fort Knox |
Twilight Zone
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
Glenreagh Fort Knox Twilight Zone |
Routes are described RIGHT to LEFT
Routes are described RIGHT to LEFT |
17
★★ riding in bliss
6m R of updl. Start above small cave, up to vertical crack, then another smaller cave, over this to ledge. Tree anchor.climb |
17
★★ Uzi Packing Drug Lords
Up Wall on Trad Gear |
14
★ Dr Farquhar's Space Age Sleeping Vessel
Up flack and through bulge |
15
★ Carnage At The Mouse Machine
climbs the right leaning orange crack |
13
When Twighlight Turns To Dark
the corner crack on left of wall |
16
★ 35 Degrees
Up short corner and wall through overlap and up to anchors. |
20
★★ Convergence
left trending steep wall past 4 RB's |
The Next wall and routes is down and left project
The Next wall and routes is down and left project |
23
The New Oriental Chinese Restaurant
Up Crack and wall on trad gear. |
23
Project
Start just left of Crack. Needs Independent finish. sharp! |
26
★★ New Moon
Hard boulder problem through Rooflet and crack then up head wall as for TDK |
19
★★ The Dark Knight
Up SF for 1 bolt then step right and up face. |
20
★★ Solar Flare
Up orange wall and white streak. |
22
★ Paranormal
up the black and yellow streak wall past flake and rooflet |
18
Poltergeist
Unknown entity. left line of hangers to chains |
16
★ Breaking Dawn
Up through Rooflet to anchor. |
19
Close Encounters
Up left yellow wall. |
Glenreagh Fort Knox |
Wild Dog
Wild Dog Wall are directly below the upper Fort Knox car park but at the bottom of the valley (two tiers down) |
Glenreagh Fort Knox Wild Dog |
21
★★ Moon Shadow
Start on face and cnr crack below first BR and fig tree. Can solo to first BR. Follow BR and crack line to top. (Don't use tree) 5 BR's plus SLCD. Tree Belay Single BR for directional. |
15
★ Gopher
Up to big bowl, then up to tree. All gear |
19
Adder
5m right of Moon Shadow. Follow crack to top. Finish to the right of tree. Crux at top. Most of the climb is 16-18 but the top move is a little scary and is about 19. Natural Pro and belay. |
23
Sting
1m right of 'Adder'. Up face to tree. 3BRs plus SLCD's. Tree Belay. |
18
Monkey Boots
The arete 5/6m right of 'Adder'. Start around on the right face. Use brass offset or RP past first BR. A little contrived but generally follow arete and BR's. Beware Chossy rock. 5 BR's plus 2 natural. DB Belay. |
16
Stoned
The second obvious crack to the right of 'Monkey Boots'. Crack to tree then Cnr crack to top. Beware loose rocks. Natural Pro and Belay. |
Glenreagh Fort Knox |
Niles Roof Area
About 10m below and 30m left of 'The Strong Room' |
Glenreagh Fort Knox Niles Roof Area |
24
★★ Niles Roof
From ledge in middle of wall, if you're short step onto cairn, then jugs and trend left through jugs and rail to lower of 5th hanger |
Project
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
Glenreagh Fort Knox |
Lama Land
A short crag that has a high concentration of moderate routes. Great for kids, beginners and people learning to lead. |
Glenreagh Fort Knox Lama Land |
13
★★ Happy Lama
A traverse of terror leading to a balancy face. |
14
★ Sad Lama
Direct start to Happy Lama. |
16
★★ President Obama Lama
Tough opening sequence leading to the same, fun upper section. |
14
★★ Cruisy Susi
Super fun flake/crack up the middle of Lama Land. Bolt belay. |
18
★ Insane in the Membrane
The left side of the arete. |
17
★★ Insane in the Brain
The right side of the arete. |
Glenreagh Fort Knox |
Strong Room
The first section of cliff that you approach from the top car park. The climbs are described from left tonight. This contains a good selection of moderate routes. The middle section of the cliff can drip after rain. Most routes are equipped with fixed hangers and chain anchors. |
Glenreagh Fort Knox Strong Room |
22
Dicky Seat
First route on left end of cliff, past two bolts to lower off. |
23
White Lane
Two ring bolts, big move from pockets to the break, lower off. |
24
★ Black And White
Line right of NR. Up wall to lower off |
23
★★ Shane Of The Jungle
The small roof right of BAW. Go up through the roof and wall with small pockets |
21
★ Jeff's Live Round
3 hangers to chain |
24
★ Jeff's Orange Barf
Up the wall with 3 bolts to shared lower off with JLR. |
19
★ Spanking Monkeys
Short corner crack then up through breaks to top, natural gear. |
24
Unknown
heads straight up orange wall |
25
Homo Gordonis
Becoming a classic, a tall man’s nemesis. |
25
Unknown 2
Heads left and up wall to finish at anchors as for HG |
22
★★ Missing Monkeys
A bit run out up high, 3 bolts to chain. Originally graded 21 but harder now the flake at the top of the crux has been ripped off. Still an excellent route. |
24
★ (Unknown 1)
Shares a few holds with MM. Run out up high, safest to exit to anchors at MM, beware the tree. |
16
★ Hilti Hijackers
Good fun. Great warm up. Can take a medium cam between the 2nd and 3rd bolt to reduce the runout. |
20
★ Thin Red Line
4m right of 'Hilti Hijackers', and around the corner on the East facing wall. Up to obvious small ledge then up seemingly empty wall, finish at anchors for MDS. 2 BRs |
21
★★ Magic Dick Sixteen
Right of TRL. Classic, technical climbing through big pockets. 3 bolts to lower off. |
27
★★ Agent Scully
Climb the arete to chains. 4 FHs. |
25
★ Leaking Boy Beno
To the right of AS, up the wall into the roof (3 bolts), a big move to clip the 4th bolt then continue up corner past another bolt to clip chain up high. |
24
★★ Agent Mulder
Old abandoned project. Start 5m right of LBB. Up through steep roof past 2 RB and 2 FH to anchor over mantle. |
Glenreagh Fort Knox |
The Alcove
Beautiful curved orange wall just past the strong room. Some routes stay dry in the rain. |
Glenreagh Fort Knox The Alcove |
24
★ New Slang
first bolt of TVLJ then step left and up to anchors |
23
★★ Tim's Vital Life Juice
Powerful & pumpy, well worth doing. Climb the arete, 4 rings to lower off. Rebolted by QUT Cliffhangers in 2021. |
27
★★ Laaabia
Variant finish to WMV, go left at fourth bolt past a fifth and up to chain. |
25
★★ White Man's Voodoo
Up the Beautiful yellow wall past 4 bolts. Rebolted MAY 18 |
24
★★ Elders Voodoo
Start as for elders have wisdom then up left to anchors for WMV |
23
★★ Elders Have Wisdom
Up orange wall tending right to anchors on JW |
20
★★ John West
Climbs Black Arete on left of wall. Fun pockets at start then edges up high. Direct start from ground or traverse in from ledge |
22
★★ The Malloy
A tribute. Great moves all the way up the wall. Tops out to anchors just above lip for full value! REBOLTED FEB 14 |
23
★ Wet Patch
Up wall just right of the Malloy. |
24
★★ Lewis The Crag Dog
Start 5m right of TM, off ledge and up past the crack on NP to bulge and past 4 rings to lower off. Rebolted by QUT Cliffhangers in 2021. |
24
★★ Marty's Route
Starts under obvious overhung Scoop at top of wall. Anchor and final bolt replaced July 2011 |
18
★ Prize Winning Duck
Start as for HOC or there is an optional direct start. Up wall to mantle ledge and anchor under roof. |
19
★ House of Cards
Start under block. Optional first bolt clip or skip it. Up orange face to anchors under roof. |
21
★★ Milk and Honey
Start under obvious pocket. Up Past 2 original fixed hangers then straight up steep wall past 3 RB's to anchor. |
23
Wisdom Of Youth VS
Two FH's protect moves through the pockets to join original route. |
23
★ Wisdom Of Youth
The middle of the Alcove, monkey up on big holds until suddenly… there's nothing… much. Don't cheat by traversing right. 5 bolts. |
23
★★ Sex And Drugs On The Rock And Roll
Simply great. Campus start if you’re short. Power up past 7 bolts to chain and possible small cam in horizontal break near the top. |
24
★★ Kanoon
The corner at the right hand end. Up the corner on natural gear, clip bolt before huge move. Head left to anchors. |
26
★ Poor Man On Bourbon Street
Start as for 'Kanoon', then tend right and up thin wall to anchor |
24
★★★ Alter Ego
Start as for first 4 bolts on Bourbon Street but then continue right to the arete past 2 ring bolts and back left to anchor. |
26
★ Bourbon Street Direct
Direct start for PMOBS, 1 bolt to join main route. |
23
★★ Groovin the Move
Starts at end of ledge 50m past bourbon street. Climb tree to gain over hanging belay ledge. Up flake then out left to gain arête and up airily to anchors on ledge. |
Glenreagh Fort Knox |
Narcissus Roof
This area is below the Alcove, to reach it walk straight down from the Alcove. Then down and right of the big block to the roof. |
Glenreagh Fort Knox Narcissus Roof |
21
★★ Narcissus Raining Down
It’s the only route on the wall. Up past 2 bolts and a piece of gear to roof, and last bolt to lower off |
Glenreagh Fort Knox |
Goodvibes Wall
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
Glenreagh Fort Knox Goodvibes Wall |
23
★ Will of the Word
Climbs up wall traversing left to top out passing 5 Carrots. No Anchor |
15
Corky's Crack
Up the nice corner crack, step left around the roof and then tend right to the bolts at the lip. |
16
★ Stealth Mode
About 2m right of Corkys Crack. Up the wall past 2 bolts and then through the rooflet on trad gear. Anchor bolts at the lip. A little bit spicy. |
18
★★ Steves Preposterous Hypothesis
Up featured wall 5m left of andy goodvibes |
22
★★ Pimp My Vagrant Ride
Up slab 2m left of AG. A fine route with lots of interesting holds and moves. |
22
★★ Andy Goodvibes
A fantastic slab with a great little crux roof. The orange streak about 15m right of 'Corky's crack'. Up pockets on orange section, then crux move onto the gray slab with progressively better moves to the top. |
22
Adventures In Retro Land
3m right of AG, step right on good foot holds to reach the first bolt. Follow bolts to lower off. Carrots |
20
★ Sneaky Snake Flake
One of the longest routes at Knox. Same start and first bolt as CT. Stick clip. Strenuously through the roof and then a rising traverse through a series of cool flakes. Probably only about 17 after the tricky start. |
20
★ Cosmic Turtle
Start on the arête at the start of the big ledge/cave, 15m R of AG. Stick clip. Traverse left along the rails and then straight up the featured face. |
22
★★ Fashion Nugget
The corner/arete 2m right of CT. Stick clip first bolt, Jug up to a tricky move or two in the corner to the arête and then right up the face. Nice pockets up high. |
27
★ Rubik's Roof
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |