Routes as trad in Ebor Gorge

Start: A small slabby wall enclosed by two boulders. Bolt runners and wires needed. Bridge up past the slab, clip BR then move up the wall/arête to the bulge. Wire the crack then move up over the bulge, clipping another BR.

Belay right back on trees.

Start: A semi-detached arête/wall 3m left of Nought.

Up to break with wires or small Friends, over the bulge and past bolt to the top.

Start: At right-hand end of breakaway below short V-chimney.

Through V-chimney and overhang, then jams to top.

‘Little wonder no-one’s done it’ - Because it's so short.

Start: In the bottom of ‘Rolling Stones’ corner.

Climb diagonally left up flake and around rib to make a long reach for finger crack. Move up then step left to finish.

Start: 2m left of ‘Little Wonder’.

Up crack to top

Start: l0m left of ‘Rolling Stones’.

Up the slightly flaring crack, from hand-jams to off-width.

Start:2m left of ‘Paranoid Primadona’.

Up the off width crack to top.

Start: 1m left of ‘Boulder’.

A bit of bridging leads to a textbook hand jam crack.

Start: 3m left of 'Seizure’.

Up initial crack and then an awkward move to turn the overlap on its left and get established on a small slab. Finish up chimney/corner.

Start: 2m left of ‘Gung Ho’.

Fingery start then up crack.

Start: 2m left of ‘Milkshake’.

Up short chimney and then the corner crack. (The corner has been extensively cleaned in recent years making it substantially easier - perhaps 16?)

Start: 1m right of ‘Brijit’.

Up the crack with the bush/tree growing out of it.

Start: This is the easy-angled corner with a small tree at 2/3 height. (6m left of ‘The Joker’ and about 3m right of Polynesian Lady). Much more interesting than it looks.

The climb was originally graded 19 because of lack of protection near the ground. There is now a good wire placement about halfway between the ground and the small tree so perhaps there is a case for reviewing the grade.

Up corner with incipient crack.

Start: A couple of metres left of ‘Brijit’.

Up fingery crack start to hand crack and over some sword grass to top.

Start: 2m left of ‘Polynesian Lady’ and immediately left of small roof.

Up to the left of roof to off width corner. Continue to top

A single aid rest was eliminated on the second ascent by J. Lattanzio and M, Colyvan, Feb 1982.

Start: About 1m right of ‘The Removalist’.

Up thin crack and wall to a better crack above which joins up with the top part of ‘The Removalist’.

Start: A few metres upstream of the lookout below an obvious handjamb crack which turns into a rightwards diagonal.

Climb the handjamb crack and the rightwards diagonal which leads into a vertical crack. Up this to a stance with double hangers and rap rings.

• Take care with the moveable block at the top of the initial crack. - It seems to be locked in, but "forewarned is forearmed".

Start: As for ‘The Removalist’.

Up the crack as for ‘The Removalist’ until the diagonal, then step left into thin crack/corner.

Follow crack/corner through small roof to top.

The first ascent caused some local controversy because the bolt is too close to Cheap Vendetta and makes it safer. Start: The arête just left of ‘The Removalist’.

Up the arête, via a single bolt runner, to top.

Start: About l0m left of ‘The Removalist’.

Up the slightly flared crack to belay as for Dead Calm.

Better than it looks.

Start: 1m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Up the wide crack, over bulge, then narrow crack to exit, left and belay as for Sucking Faces.

A magnificent wall climb, an Ebor classic.

Start: 2m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Straight up the wall past 3 bolt runners, 2 number 3 Friend placements, and a number 4 RP placement. Double hanger w/ rap rings awaits.

Start: 3m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’ is a corner that leads to a leaning pile of rocks.

The corner, then bridge delicately out and around the roof. A fixed wire protects the last move.

Start: About 10m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Up flared crack. Two hangers for anchor, about 2m back from edge under shrubs.

Start: 4m left of ‘Power Play’.

Up ‘Blinky Bill’ for a move or two then face climb right to bottom of incipient crack. Up crack to top.

Start: 4m left of ‘Power Play’.

Up hand jam to off width crack.

Start: Marked left of ‘Blinky Bill’.

Layback start into jam crack which widens in middle section.

Start: l0m left of ‘Hot Seat’.

Hand jams to offwidth to top.

Start: About 3m right of ‘Rubber Ball’.

Up short corner to ledge, then take thin twin cracks on the right which lead to a wider crack above.

Start: As for ‘Blitzkrieg Bop’.

Up short corner to ledge, then up thin crack at the back of the ledge.

Start: About 5m left of ‘Hobson’s Choice’.

Onto ledge from left then fist jam crack to top.

Start: 2m left of ‘Rubber Ball’.

Up short wall, then finger crack through bulging central section.

Originally all aid ( M2), but was freed by John Lattanzio and Tim Balla in June 1986.

Start: 1m left of ‘Narcissus’.

Up the thin crack in the corner.

Start: 2m left of ‘Supermouse’.

Hand jam crack with tricky finish.

Start: 1m left of ‘Firestorm’.

Up crack then under cling left.

Start: The bolted wall 10m left of ‘Firestorm’.

Up wall/arête past a #4 Friend placement and four BR’s. Double bolt anchor on top. (Hard to find).

Start: The crack in the corner 1m left of ‘Headbanger’.

Up the crack.

Start: Left of ‘Firestorm’.

Up the wide crack

Start: Left of ‘The Plaquet’.

Reasonable hand jams to dubious hand jams. Out onto sloping ledge.

Start: About 2m left of ‘Wake In Fright’. The arête.

Up the arête past 2 fixed hangers and some wires to double bolt belay on top (about 5m back from the edge of the cliff- difficult to find).

Start: 3m left of ‘Wake In Fright’.

Climb the right-hand of the twin cracks.

A two-pitch wonder.... Starts 5m's R of the yellow rock close to the falls. Up potentially damp black crack to large vegetated ledge then up obvious short corner crack.

Originally all aid (M1) however all but the first four points (bolts) were eliminated by Al Stephens and Graeme Stewart in August 1986.

Start: From the tree nearest the waterfall.

4 bolts for M1 aid to gain thin crack, then free to top.

Start: Below largest crack line in lower buttress of breakaway.

Up crack.

Unknown details, mentioned in 'Screamer' mag issue 9, 1981

Start: At the extreme left-hand end of the 2nd breakaway, i.e. left of Touched.

Up arête below 2 roofs. Up crack to roof, through roof to ledge then to top.

Some people will do anything to see their name in print!

Start: The scrubby gully at the left hand end of the cliff, 3m left of ‘Hitman’.

Up twin cracks and mank.

Start: The small, 1m roof near the left-hand end of the cliff, 15m right of ‘Hitman’.

Up crack under roof, clip bolt then surmount roof, and continue past a break to top. Belay on trees further back

Start: 2m left of ‘Hitman’.

Up a little slab then up the arete using the left hand edge. Two bolts and some wires provide the protection.

Start: Below the obvious crack up the first good rock you come to.

Up wall to crack and on to top.

Start: 3m right of ‘Hitman’.

Up fist jam crack to small roof and over to top.

Start: The flake crack 4m right of ‘True Confessions’.

Up the crack.

Start: 9m right of ‘True Confessions’.

Up crack to stance and on to top.

Start: 1m right of ‘Mischief’.

Up twin cracks to top.

Start: The arete between ‘Snakes and Ladders’ and ‘Whale Oil Beef Hooked’.

Straight up the arete, avoiding the climbs on either side. 4 bolts and a selection of Friends provide the protection. #4 Friend needed near top.

Start: 2m right of ‘Snakes and Ladders’.

Up thin corner crack to top.

Start: About 3m left of ‘Interlude’.

Up crack.

A good climb to do while you’re deciding what you really want to do.

Start: On the terrace left of ‘Epileptic Chimney’.

A few wall moves to start, then a couple of jams, and finally a mantle shelf over a tiny roof.

A useful descent route for this part of the cliff.

Start: The chimney to the left of and behind ‘Ivory Stairs’.

Up chimney.

Start: The arete/wall immediately R of‘Epileptic Chimney’ above boulder.

Step off boulder and up wall trending left to arête at half height. Balance up arête to top, using friend in break and 2 bolts for pro.

Start: 12m right of ‘Whale Oil Beef Hooked’.

Loose in parts.

Up corner to roof, step left and up to top.

Start: The sharp arête between ‘Ivory Stairs’ and ‘Submission’.

Layaway up the sharp edge. 3 bolts, a number 3 friend, and wires provide the protection. There are two bolts at the top of this climb if an anchor is required, which also services climbs 16 - 20 (take bolt plates).

Start: 1m right of ‘Ilean’.

Up crack to top.

Start: 3m right of ‘Submission’.

Scramble up broken rock and into chimney and on to top.

Start: 1m right of ‘Staircase Chimney’.

Up wall to crack then to top.

Start: 1m right of ‘Mantle As Anything’.

Bridge up over blocks then take the off-width crack on the left to top

Start: As for ‘Plastic Passion.

A bit silly.

Up as for ‘Plastic Passion’ and then up thin crack on right and straight up wall to top.

Start: The arête right of ‘Contrivia’ and left of ‘Fear And Loathing’. “Like shimmying up a Fridge”. Up the arête past wires in the crack and two fixed hangers. Belay off double bolts at top.

Start: 4m right of ‘Staircase Chimney’.

Up finger crack with block at half height. There are two bolts at the top of this climb if a top rope anchor is needed (take bolt plates) but quite adequate anchors can be had where the crack splits the top of the pinnacle.

Start: The arête/wall between ‘Fear and Loathing’ and ‘Nightmare Crack’.

Up the arête/wall avoiding the cracks on either side and passing 3 BR’s and a #1 1/2 Friend placement. Some wires also useful.

Start: 2m right of ‘Fear and Loathing’. What a nightmare!

Fingery crack followed by jam crack and offwidth to top.

Start: Crack R of ‘Nightmare Crack’.

Preferably use double ropes!.

Up crack till it stops at half height, traverse L with small pro and finish up ‘Nightmare Crack’.

Start: In the ‘chimney behind ‘Nightmare Crack’ - a hole in the ground. The climb is the crack that is the other side of ‘Nightmare Crack’.

Chimney and jam using the crack for protection.

Start: 5m right of ‘Nightmare Crack’. Large log below start.

Fingery crack that closes near the top.

Start: About 4m left of ‘Amphetamine Annie’ (approx 10-15m right of ‘Fingers’).

Up thin crack, taking care with wire protection down low, then easier wide crack to top.

Start: About 10m down left of ‘Potato Picker’. A small tree is growing out of the crack at half height.

Up crack to top.

Originally done with a single point of aid (19M0) at the start of the crack, this was eliminated on the second ascent by A. Legler, M. Colyvan, and E. Sharpe Nov 1980 ]

In Feb 94 Dick Baker aided the direct start.

Start: As for ‘potato Picker’.

Up to ledge as for ‘Potato Picker’ then traverse 2m left around the arête to a crack. Follow crack to top.

Start: Due to difficult access from the upstream end of the cliff it is best to approach down one of the chimneys as for Last Straw or by the gully which can be seen in the topo. If you are approaching from one of the climbs upstream then:- Approx 25m right of ‘Fingers’ is a short easy wall leading to a ledge where a crack leads up a corner at the left-hand end of the ledge. The stance at the bottom of the cliff is quite constricted now due to new growth so it is probably advisable to belay on the ledge.

Follow the crack at the left-hand end of the ledge to the top.

Start: 1m right of ‘Potato Picker’.

Twin cracks, up right hand fist/off width crack to top.

Start: 4m right of ‘Chocks Away’.

Up off width which leads to smooth body chimney.

Start: 2m right of ‘Occam’s Razor’.

Up crack to top.

Start: 10m right of ‘Occam’s Razor’ on obvious terrace. Second crack from left on terrace.

Up thin crack to top.

Start: 2m right of ‘Redemption’ on terraces

Up wide crack to top.

Start: 25m right of ‘Occam’s Razor’ a large pillar leans back against the main wall.

Start up either of the two cracks for 3m to chimney in behind the pillar.

Start: First line left of break in cliff, 3m right of ‘Chunder Chimney’. Due to undergrowth at the base of the middle section of the cliff, it is advisable to access this climb by descending one of the easy chimneys above.

The slightly overhanging jam crack. (marked)

Start: First line right of the break in the cliff.

Up enjoyable offwidth by bridging into adjacent crack.

Start: 2m right of ‘Tristana’.

Fingery start followed by hand jam crack and off width finish.

Start: 3m right of ‘Viridiana’.

Bridge up twin cracks to top.

Start: Right of ‘Trix’ in yellow rotten section of cliff.

Fist to off width crack.

Start: Right of ‘Rattlesnake’, the last climb on the Second Breakaway.

Bolt belay at start. Up past 2BR’s and some natural pro to a double bolt anchor on the ledge at top.

Start:The first real line you come to at the end of the descent path through the 'jungle'. The scimitar shaped crack. Up onto the top of the trunkated column, fight the blackberry and up leftward-leaning curved crack to top.

The second line you arrive at when walking into 3rd breakaway. Starts in thin obvious line above a ferny natural spring. Strenuous fingery moves, jamming and technical bridging. Plug away up twin cracks and use double ropes for peace of mind. Big tree belay 10m from edge. A hard route for short arses.

Starts 6m L of CFWTPB. Up finger crack to hands where crack widens. Follow obvious line up to a short, broken, featured head wall. Up and out to finish. Big tree belay 10m from edge.

This line has long since fallen away, exposing a completely different route up the twin cracks on bright orange rock.

Original grade 13 line no longer exists.

Start: 5m left of ‘Haggis Hole’.

This climb no longer exists. See notes on Haggis Hole.

Start: The line immediately left of ‘Frogwyn D’Harder’.

Up crack, trending to offwidth. Mix 'n' match fingerlocks in lefthand crack with offwidth technique on the right. IMPORTANT:- There is currently a large loose block sitting at the top of the offwidth section so climb past it with extreme care (or abseil first and get rid of it). Finish straight up easily but scarily, or do as the first ascentionists did - traverse right onto ledge near top and climb small finishing wall.

Start: The line immediately left of ‘Fully Furnished Dustbin’.

Up crack with an exciting finish

Start: 5m left of ‘Frogwyn D’Harder’; obvious finger crack capped by roof.

Originally 17M1 with the lower thin crack aided and the roof free but was freed by R.Curtis and J.Kelman Nov 1976.

Up finger to handjam crack and through roof to top.

Start: 10m left of ‘Luce’.

Rightward trending crack to hand jam crack to top.

Start: 1m left of ‘Aeroplane Jelly’.

Up fist/offwidth crack to a horizontal break a few metres from the top. An 'interesting' couple of moves right lead into the crack of Aeroplane Jelly. Finish up the last few moves of Aeroplane Jelly.