Route as trad in Gibraltar Rock

Roughly in the centre of the main wall there is a slab with two white, pocketed water streaks which lead up into the scrub – a big vegetated terrace.

1. 45m (4) Easily up the slab with not much pro. Tree belay in the scrub. Walk up to the base of the headwall, then follow the wall down L. On the L side of the main wall there’s a long, L-facing 90 degree corner. Pitch two climbs the slabby wall 5m L of this.
2. 30m (13) Climb the wall avoiding the loose rock for 15m to a ledge at base of short corner crack (L of the one described above). Up this with good gear for 5m, then continue up the line to tree belay at base of big groove (pitch 3).
3. 18m (15) Climb the groove with excellent pro. At the fig tree at half height, there is some very loose rock to negotiate (bridging!). The final moves leading L to the top out are the best on the route. Tree belay on ancient full-size bonsai pine. Walk off L down gully.