Showing all 19 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Boneyard | |||||
27 | ★ Redneck Heaven
Takes the wall between Redneck Love and Heaven Can Wait. The climb shares a few holds with Heaven Can Wait however the upper crux is completely independent. A midway rest (where a delicate no hander can be fashioned) keeps the grade sensible. FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 5 Jan 2019 | 30m | |||
28 | ★★ Chase that Feeling
The line immediately right of the big crack bordering the orange shield. Several powerful moves low down followed by a sustained section of insecure slab climbing up the orange shield. Then a heartbreaking crux over the final roof. FFA: Chris Coppard, 2012 | 35m | |||
27 | ★★ Barberella!
Climbs the R-trending diagonal line on the orange shield. Crosses Chainsaws, Guns and Dogs then finishes at the same anchors. FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 2013 | 35m | |||
28 | ★★ Jetstream
Climbs Vapour Trail to the first anchors then left via a V5 boulder. FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2012 | 35m | |||
27 | ★★★ Vapour Trail
Harder than it looks. | 35m | |||
27 | ★★ Legends Never Die
Climb Vapour Trail then head far right via a steep boulder problem. FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2013 | 35m | |||
28 | ★★★ No Space in Time
Clip the first two bolts then up the steep Trad crack (small/medium wires and cams). Continue up the fantastic face above. Classic climbing all the way and one of the best routes here. FFA: Invgar Lidman, 2011 | 20m, 7 | |||
28 | ★★★ Atomic Vampire
Another brilliant line of powerful dead points and amazing side pulls, the top section is no cake walk either. FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 2012 | 20m | |||
27 | ★★ 2 Fast 2 Furious
Sustained excellent climbing. FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2011 | 15m, 8 | |||
Orange Crush Ledge | |||||
27 | ★★ Ambur Allure Direct
Climbs Amber Allure to the 6th bolt, then heads directly up the steep, thin face (where AA traverses left through the bulge) via punchy moves, the join Amber Allure just before it's top headwall. FA: Garry Phillips Set: Garry Phillips, 31 Mar 2016 | 25m | |||
Main Face | |||||
27 | ★ Surfer Rosa
Alternate second pitch to Black Fire. FA: Ingvar Lidman | 30m | |||
27 | ★★★ Ride the Lightning
The line 5m right of Mornings Minion. Straight up the guts of the wall. P1 - 30m (25/26) - Crimpy, technical and sustained face climbing up the black rock. P2 - 15m (21) - Tricky and awkward. Caution getting to the 3rd bolt from the box groove. Tricky traverse right, then thin slabbing to the belay. Can be easily combined with the next pitch. P3 - 35m (20) - Enjoyable slabbing with the moves getting more interesting in the latter half. P4 - 20m (25) - The boulder problem pitch. Harder if you're short. Hard boulder between 2nd and 3rd bolt, then entertaining steep blocky climbing (gr22) to belay. P5 - 30m (27) - Fingery, thin and hard to read. The thin orange streak leading into the black headwall. P6 - 25m (4) - Junky, loose exit pitch... but only grade 4. Descend by rapping the route as necessary, or walking down via the approach/descent gully on the righthand side (looking out) of the summit. FA: Andrew Martin | 200m, 6 | |||
27 | ★★ Ride the Lightening RHV
FA: Andrew Martin & Ingvar Lidman | 200m, 5 | |||
28 | Dildano
Start right of Underestimated. Vicious. FA: Ingvar Lidman | 25m | |||
Easter Rising Face | |||||
27 M1 R | ★★ Masked Lapwing
Traverses the lip of The Great Roof for 40m. Why? Why not? Quite the adventure. About as exposed as it gets, and blessed with stunning rock, and gymnastic moves. Hampered by an easy aid move at the start of each pitch, complex amounts of faff, and a somewhat sketchy second pitch. Start at the belay below Pitch 6 of Agony and Ecstasy in 8 Parts (below the black streak). Access via rap-in for Easter Rising face, or climbing the first 5 pitches of Agony and Ecstasy, or via Tomorrow's Dream-Easter Rising linkup (5 pitches to the black streak ledge).
NOTE: With Pitch 2, it's important to have a lot of slack in the system (aiming for 6-8m falls) in order to avoid both the roof below the headwall, and another series of roofs hidden below. Due to the fully hanging belay, its hard to effectively give slack, and throughout the crux the climber is hard to see. On the FA, the climber was fairly seriously injured hitting this low roof despite a seemingly clean fall. To escape, rap using 2 x 60m ropes from the anchors at the end of P2. A pair of 60m dynamic ropes will just make it to the belay below P3 of Tomorrow's Dream with stretch. Be careful with rope length, and dont waste too much rope in the knot. From there, continue to rap down Tomorrow's Dream. FA: Paul Frothy Thomson, Jared Anderson & Stephen Varney, 5 May 2022 | 40m, 2 | |||
27 | ★★ Green Spandex
Powerful moves following an incipient diagonal crack on the 20 degree overhanging headwall above The Great Roof. The Belay is a fully-hanging stance on the very lip of the roof. Getting to the climb is a big undertaking. From the top of Bare Rock, locate the rap-access anchors for the Easter Rising Face (about 50m right (looking out) of the Supernaut top anchor, tucked away among some scraggly bushes near the cliff edge (ignore another set of anchors in the open between the Supernaut anchors and the Easter Rising anchors - these are the top-out anchors for Master of Puppets)). Fix a 60m rope, rap down and redirect the rap-rope off a single bolt (on McDonagh face), then rap down and right (looking in) aiming for a double U-bolt belay about 10m right of the direct rap line. Redirect the rap-rope again off these anchors, and rap down the overhanging headwall (clip into bolts on the way down, as the line is very steep, and diagonal) to the belay on the lip of the Great Roof. A 60m rope JUST reaches (tie a knot in the end). Climb the Diagonal crack past 5 bolts to the anchors. Then Jumaar 40m back to the top. FA: Chris Coppard | 18m, 5 | |||
Supernaut Face | |||||
27 | ★★ Fairies Wear Boots
The route on the left of the face rising leftwards out to the arete above the big roof. Start 10m down left of Supernaut and belay on the abseil chains on the slab. Up 4 bolts via the steep face (25) to stance at the base of the right trending hanging corner. Go left across the overhanging face (crux) out to the arete. Continue up the arete (23) for 5 bolts to join Supernaut. Continue up Supernaut for the last 8 bolts. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2011 | 45m, 20 | |||
The Block | |||||
27 | Ingvar's 27
Right of Isaac's Route. An utterly desperate boulder-problem start to easier climbing above. FA: Ingvar Lidman | 10m | |||
New Horizons | |||||
28 | ★★★ Judge Dread
Stellar line up dolerite face left of ME. Classic grade 25 climbing to a crux at the top. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2014 | 15m |
Showing all 19 routes.