Routes in South-East Face for selected grade

1. 36m (8) - Climb a number of vegetated corners to slanting ledge and bollard belay

2. 21m (8) - Traverse left for 6m then up to below overhanging wall

3. 36m (13) - Climb down and left onto wall and up this to belay on top of huge block

4. 27m (8) - Traverse left for 6m across good ledge then up diagonally to belay below and left of waterfall

5. 33m (15) - Climb diagonally R and across waterfall to belay on ledge with two pitons and other gear

6. 24m (14) - Traverse left again for 6m then up to bollard runner and back down again, cross back across the waterfall and belay on good ledge below huge death blocks

7. 36m (15 M4) - Free climb waterfall for 15m then aid up for 15m followed by 6m of free climbing to small wet ledge

8. 24m (16 M4) - Three aid pieces to hard and greasy free section to finish on good ledge under roof

9. 36m (15) - Traverse R for 3m then up another 9m to diagonal traverse right until it leads to just above a crack then up chimney to belay

10. 27m (11) - Continue up chimney until 9m below big overhang and belay

11. 30m (14) - Traverse R and up diagonally to ledge and piton belay

12. 36m (14) - Climb up series of corners and steep walls to belay on good ledge under chimney

13. 27m (14 M1) - Up chimeny til it narrows then aid up to small ledge and belay

14. 24m (14 M1) - Up crack with two aid pieces and top out, belay on pile of rubble

To get to the start, walk up main scree couloir below SE Face, from its base scramble up and right to belay on bollard below vegetated crack just left of small buttress

1. 36m - Straight up crack then up right trending ramp to belay.

2. 36m - Traverse right over vegetation and behind blocks to base of large chimney with gully of loose rocks at base, up this gully and behind flake to belay at top of chimney.

3. 18m - Diagonally up left and across wall to belay on terrace covered in loose rock.

4. 36m - Diagonally up right to small stance and belay at base of detached pinnacle.

5. 24m - Up and slightly left into chimney with a handcrack in a pillar for 10-12m. Traverse out L along the ledge/under roof, over the bulge and continuing up to belay at the base of a vegetated chimney. Finger and hand sized cams for belay. Another pitch with quite suspect rock.

6. 30m - Up chimney with delicate moves until its possible to pull onto right side of arête. Continue traversing up and right to belay at a stance below handcrack corner system.

7. 20m - Handjams straight up the vegetated corner, passing an old piton and a ledge. Belay at the next slightly smaller ledge a couple of metres above. Belay takes hand sized cams.

8. 30m - From belay, unlikely looking traverse 6-9m L around buttress, where you will pass a piton. The traverse has decent protection. Now head up the poorly protected groove, using the face when necessary. Exit to your left, continuing to run it out, past a big ledge to belay on top of a block.

9. 21m - (Crux) This pitch is known as the Devils Staircase. Diagonally up and left across smooth, vertical wall on good protection with awesome exposure. The suggested belay at the end here is quite marginal. Recommend continuing up arête for 8m (left side runout but easier, right marginal gear, steeper) to next good protection on small sloping ledge. Takes 0.3 cams and nut.

10. 33m - Traverse down and left into big chimney and up this to belay. Alternatively, the right hand side has less moss and okay rock. Continuing a little higher to one of the numerous other stances will gets you to the top in just 1 more pitch.

11. 30m - Continue up chimney and up to belay on right of large boulder.

12. 30m - Keep going up chimney before exiting out onto a large boulder and belay.

13. 30m - Scramble up grass and rocks onto summit.

Variant finish to the Sydney Route. Pitches 1-7 as for The Sydney Route

1. 22m (14) - Very exposed traverse left to slight groove at 6m, keep going 9m longer to corner, down this around to the left into a small stance and belay

2. 24m (15) - Diagonally up and left for 5m to tiny flake, traverse left around arete and up wall for 9m to stance on left and up to good belay left

3. 27m (15) - Up rotten corner on left for 5m to shelf, traverse riht (delicately) to foot of overhanging crack and up this to ledge with moss and loose rock. Up mossy overhang and up to belay in chimney

4. 36m (13) - Bypass large overhanging chockstone via the right wall, then easy climbing up to belay.

Pitches 12-13 as for The Sydney Route