By no means a thorough description. For further information buy a guidebook. No idea about pitch lengths. This route eats hexes. Otherwise single rack from smallest c-3's to #3, with double #1 and double #2 for pitches 4 and 5.
Depart hikers track to summit on faint trail leading to base of walls, head over spur and down across big wall all the way to loose scree chute, up this with care, under detached pinnacle at top, across with care until under right leaning ramp creating left facing corner. Approx 1.5hr approach from Tahune hut. The lines infamous traverse pitch can be spied from here as the piece of rock between two respective crack systems.
Either rope up or up gradually unroped through first two pitches of blocks and vegetation veering slightly right through easiest terrain.
Onto large terrace then back left to base of corner. Build belay. Rope up.
Engaging wet pitch 3 up to big ledge with some bail tat on a block.
Pitch 4 - Up crack, cruxy, and over top out of sight on very smooth sloping smears on right. Would need three or more #2 s to link into next pitch.
Continue next pitch (5) up same crack with better feet, persist with crack, good #3 in very top before an easy scramble up small cleft, belay gear high up in back, cordelette handy.
Pitch (6) - Direct up crack or step right up arette with steep pulls on big holds with good gear and huge exposure, onwards up to big ledge.
Pitch (7) basically a solo ..lean out left, place small gear and begin traverse. Not much good gear, extend everything. Face climb delicately and keep hanging on. Eventually some good placements at base of corner, use them all and belay on small ledge on left, rather than going up into wet chimney for big gear, as the hanging belay is very uncomfortable and forces your leader straight up hard steep crack rather than easy out right as is described in guide.
Pitch (8) - up to corner, then over to unprotected easy climbing a few meters right, then back left again and up to good ledge.
Pitch (9) Up steepening crack then left onto small gear belay in back of exposed sloping ledge, for good belay.
Pitch (10) - up loosening rock through steep crystalline choss jugs and strenuous runout, into crack then up then all the way to top weaving left around steep stuff, extending everything (36m), a #4 could be useful towards end of pitch however terrain is easy and rock quality is superb. This last pitch passes a few opportunities for belays however by now you probably want to topout. Stay roped up and hike 40m up hill to variety of belay options. Walk to summit.
